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Author Topic: Atari Centipede Cocktail table game has no power  (Read 41497 times)

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Mike A

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Re: Atari Centipede Cocktail table game has no power
« Reply #200 on: February 29, 2020, 05:22:56 pm »
The six pin plug is the video signal from the PCB. RGB sync, and ground. Check the fuses on your monitor.

bperkins01

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Re: Atari Centipede Cocktail table game has no power
« Reply #201 on: February 29, 2020, 07:00:32 pm »
Testing the 6 pin plug is a lot like testing an HDMI cable..  you would be testing red/green/blue/video signal..  and they would be jumping around..    I'd be surprised if your meter could lock on an voltages in the first place.

Your real issue is how to test the monitor..
It's going to be best to test it on the bench..
There are troubleshooting guides for it too.. 

Check to make sure you didn't blow any fuses again..
To get sound with centipede - you need to coin up - then the player 1 button will light..  then start .. should get sound.
At that point - you should focus on the monitor.

Obviously that fried chip needs help..
There is also a voltage test called B+ 
Its the first thing to check

Glad to see you made progress!


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Re: Atari Centipede Cocktail table game has no power
« Reply #202 on: March 01, 2020, 01:57:49 am »
Thanks guys for all the encouragement and great advice! :cheers:  Now it's monitor to bench time. I'll let you know the status of the fuse and other parts once I take a good look at everything. First with the obvious fried chip and I'll see what I can find out on that voltage B+ test. Thanks again! Have a great day.

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Re: Atari Centipede Cocktail table game has no power
« Reply #203 on: March 02, 2020, 11:48:42 am »
Good morning all, Well, on to phase two. I removed the monitor from the chassis and it’s now on my work bench. The fuse tested out to be good. That bad component that we looked at awhile back, no longer looks like a chip to me. I thought it was going to be a 10 or 12 pin chip that I could easily remove and replace if need be. The component looks like it’s made up of a couple coils soldered directly to the circuit board. I took another picture of it from a different angle. See below.

Additionally, I watched a couple videos of testing the B+ voltage. One video was saying that the voltage they we’re looking for was 208 VDC, while another video was looking for a 108 VDC. Does anyone know the exact voltage for my Hitachi monitor? This monitor is type 37OESB22, Model: 13” COL GAM MNT. I couldn’t find any video specifically for the Hitachi. Also, when I’m test for this B+ voltage, can I just make a patch cable to supply the initial 120 VAC to the 3 prong plug? I’m going to try to get started tonight with this additional testing.

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Re: Atari Centipede Cocktail table game has no power
« Reply #204 on: March 02, 2020, 11:50:00 am »
IT'S ALIVE!!

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Re: Atari Centipede Cocktail table game has no power
« Reply #205 on: March 02, 2020, 11:51:30 am »
Bad Component. Different angle.

vapuser

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Re: Atari Centipede Cocktail table game has no power
« Reply #206 on: March 02, 2020, 11:52:20 am »
Bad component.

vapuser

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Re: Atari Centipede Cocktail table game has no power
« Reply #207 on: March 02, 2020, 11:53:39 am »
Monitor info.

vapuser

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Re: Atari Centipede Cocktail table game has no power
« Reply #208 on: March 02, 2020, 11:54:33 am »
More Monitor info

vapuser

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Re: Atari Centipede Cocktail table game has no power
« Reply #209 on: March 02, 2020, 11:55:27 am »
Additional Monitor Info below

bperkins01

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Re: Atari Centipede Cocktail table game has no power
« Reply #210 on: March 02, 2020, 11:55:46 am »
Make sure you use the power from your Atari Power brick!  DO NOT CONNECT IT TO A WALL OUTLET!

It needs to be on an isolation transformer (or you risk frying lots of things)

There should be other information on your monitor..  Are you getting that number from the tube?
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yotsuya

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Atari Centipede Cocktail table game has no power
« Reply #211 on: March 02, 2020, 11:57:35 am »
Hitachi is just your tube. Your monitor is an Electrohome. Look for info/schematics for the chassis.

It’s a GO7-FBO.
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Re: Atari Centipede Cocktail table game has no power
« Reply #212 on: March 02, 2020, 11:58:46 am »
.
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Re: Atari Centipede Cocktail table game has no power
« Reply #213 on: March 02, 2020, 01:32:45 pm »
Thanks guys. Good to know!

yotsuya

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Re: Atari Centipede Cocktail table game has no power
« Reply #215 on: March 04, 2020, 06:16:50 am »
Good morning all, after removing the monitor from the chassis and taking a good look around I did notice another smaller fuse. See Pic below circled in red. I believe it’s the F901, 1 AMP 250V. I tested it and that fuse is blown. It doesn’t look like it’s in a socket. Is that fuse soldered in place? It actually looks like both fuses are soldered in place. I can’t image having to de-solder and re- solder a fuse when it blows. Has anyone ever had to replace that mini fuse? If that is a specialty type fuse, does anyone know where I can purchase it? With the Monitor schematic now in-hand, (Thanks again to yotsuya  :cheers:), I believe what previously looked like a bad chip is really a side pin Transformer (T1503). See additional pic below. Also looking at the schematic for my 13” (SU1103A) monitor, and please correct me if I’m wrong, but it looks like the B+ is tested from the B1 pin and adjusted at R909. we’d be looking for 120V DC reading. I really want to order and replace that fuse first. I may not see a voltage without it. Any comments? Have a good day.

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Re: Atari Centipede Cocktail table game has no power
« Reply #216 on: March 04, 2020, 06:18:22 am »
See pic below, circled in red, showing blown mini fuse.

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Re: Atari Centipede Cocktail table game has no power
« Reply #217 on: March 04, 2020, 06:20:31 am »
See pic below showing a better angle of the, what I believe to be, the Side Pin Transformer (T1503).

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Re: Atari Centipede Cocktail table game has no power
« Reply #218 on: March 04, 2020, 07:07:27 am »
I’ve changed that fuse many times, believe me.

You can find them here, buy a few of them:

https://www.arcadepartsandrepair.com/?s=G07+fuse&post_type=product

Quite a few collectors will add an inline fuse holder here, running wires to this spot and mounting it off to the side.

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Re: Atari Centipede Cocktail table game has no power
« Reply #219 on: March 04, 2020, 08:48:21 am »
Quite a few collectors will add an inline fuse holder here, running wires to this spot and mounting it off to the side.

I would to this ^^^

Add a fuse holder so the fuse is not soldered to the board.
You can get a 1A / 250v at a hardware store.. its very common.  There is nothing special about it.  Its a standard fast blow fuse.
Since you don't (really) know what blew it...  A fuse holder and a few spares makes sense.
Then once you get it all sorted out - if you want to make it *original* again..  Do the solder on the board fuse..

That little transformer is likely fine..  They don't normally die..

I looked in the manual  (B1 = B+) in your case.. 

Keep in mind its 120v DC  The very first time I saw the 120 and just set my meter to AC.. (wrong..)

That fuse is really early in the circuit too.. Maybe it blew as a result of the power supply?  Not sure.. 
Keep at it!

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Re: Atari Centipede Cocktail table game has no power
« Reply #220 on: March 04, 2020, 08:51:31 am »
I had one where the flyback was the cause of it blowing.
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Re: Atari Centipede Cocktail table game has no power
« Reply #221 on: March 04, 2020, 08:52:45 am »
Oh, and read this before you do anything:


https://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=138118
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Re: Atari Centipede Cocktail table game has no power
« Reply #222 on: March 04, 2020, 08:55:53 am »
And this helps too

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Re: Atari Centipede Cocktail table game has no power
« Reply #223 on: March 09, 2020, 06:55:50 am »
Good morning all, Well, this weekend was quite productive. I removed the bad 1-amp fuse and soldered in an inline fuse holder. To make the job easier, I constructed a simple wooden frame to attach the circuit board to. See pic below. With this setup I was able to easily get to the front and back of the circuit board without having to detach too many wires.  I also made a 1-foot lead wire and attached it to the B1 pin. Tonight, when I re-install the monitor back into the chassis, I’ll be able to test and adjust the 120 VDC B+ voltage. Hopefully, I’ll have more good news tomorrow morning. Now I’m hoping to see this monitor light up.

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Re: Atari Centipede Cocktail table game has no power
« Reply #224 on: March 10, 2020, 06:31:49 am »
Bad news this Tuesday morning. After hooking the monitor back up into the chassis, and turning the power on, that mini fuse blew again, and still no power to the monitor. The B+ didn’t even show a reading at all. 0 VDC. It looks completely dead. It would be nice to have a flow chart like yotasuya posted, but start from power to the monitor/no power to the monitor. See pic below. (Just an example) I think this might be where I have to purchase and replace all the caps and flyback. There must be a more logical approach. Right? Also, aside from the monitor, I thought I’d try to see if the game would fire up again. I put two quarters in and pressed the two LED buttons. Nothing. It only happened that one time, where it sounded like the game was active. Sound was coming from the speakers and pressing the buttons was producing game sound like activity. I felt I was reaching a progress plateau. Don’t know what to think now. Any suggestions? Thanks.

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Re: Atari Centipede Cocktail table game has no power
« Reply #225 on: March 10, 2020, 08:14:50 am »
Its the very first step in the chart.. test the horizontal output transistor.  It is the most likely part to have failed (X01)
Did you check it?

I would check/replace that before doing all that other stuff.  Its the hardest working part on the board.. 

The flow chart is for troubleshooting symptoms - the flow chart you are asking for is the schematic.. You have that.  Its just knowing how to read it (not always the simplest thing)
If the game is not active - you may need to wait until you can see whats actually happening..
If the red LED is on  - they you may have a board problem.  But hard to tell w/o a screen to help you.

Check that transistor first before spending money on a flyback.. A capkit isn't (likey) going to stop fuses from blowing ..  it will help fix distortion and wavy screens.
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Re: Atari Centipede Cocktail table game has no power
« Reply #226 on: March 10, 2020, 10:20:08 am »
That flyback has shot voltage and welded parts around it, To not order one is an experiment in futility, the H/output should be replaced regardless, however, that chassis has seen high voltage, where it dont belong, so theory would dictate H/out got damaged also, And only a fool wouldn't put new caps on it...Be cautious working on it, that thing could bite you hard without warning.

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Re: Atari Centipede Cocktail table game has no power
« Reply #227 on: March 10, 2020, 10:31:13 am »
That flyback has shot voltage and welded parts around it, To not order one is an experiment in futility, the H/output should be replaced regardless, however, that chassis has seen high voltage, where it dont belong, so theory would dictate H/out got damaged also, And only a fool wouldn't put new caps on it...Be cautious working on it, that thing could bite you hard without warning.

Did I miss that picture?  I hadn't seen a fried flyback..  If the caps are original, I'd replace them..  but not before knowing what's blowing the fuse.  Horizontal output transistor check is step1.

http://www.pinrepair.com/g07/  - this looked good too as a reference
« Last Edit: March 10, 2020, 10:33:55 am by bperkins01 »
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Re: Atari Centipede Cocktail table game has no power
« Reply #228 on: March 10, 2020, 12:06:07 pm »
This pic is showing what appears to be a bad part.
That's bad flyback if I ever saw one, tried to tell him all the way back at the beginning of this thread...But it really dont matter much anymore I supose, also said "Dont hook up that board till the end,and your voltages check out" and now it is apparently not working anymore, probibally fried it from the description....But I got to say B/perk, that was a nice entry level write up on board repair you did, Just saying ::).
« Last Edit: March 10, 2020, 12:09:23 pm by jennifer »

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Re: Atari Centipede Cocktail table game has no power
« Reply #229 on: March 10, 2020, 12:44:09 pm »
This pic is showing what appears to be a bad part.
That's bad flyback if I ever saw one, tried to tell him all the way back at the beginning of this thread...But it really dont matter much anymore I supose, also said "Dont hook up that board till the end,and your voltages check out" and now it is apparently not working anymore, probibally fried it from the description....But I got to say B/perk, that was a nice entry level write up on board repair you did, Just saying ::).

Thanks Jennifer - that pic you referred to is of a small transformer/coil  (which from the original angle looked like a chip... it was not of course)..  I didn't see a pic of the flyback in this thread.
The Horizontal output transistor should be easy to get to and test.. 
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Re: Atari Centipede Cocktail table game has no power
« Reply #230 on: March 10, 2020, 02:09:23 pm »
Well...That coil is spattered with molten steel most likely with high voltage, and look what is right next to it...You guessed it, The flyback...With liquefied coil leading right to it.
« Last Edit: March 10, 2020, 02:40:33 pm by jennifer »

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Re: Atari Centipede Cocktail table game has no power
« Reply #231 on: March 10, 2020, 02:46:17 pm »
Well...That coil is spattered with molten steel most likely with high voltage, and look what is right next to it...You guessed it, The flyback...With liquefied coil leading right to it.

Well there you have it - pictures of the flyback needed  :)
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Re: Atari Centipede Cocktail table game has no power
« Reply #232 on: March 10, 2020, 03:07:41 pm »
The whole project should only cost around 60.00, and pretty much everything new, Flyback, H/trans, coil, and caps...Problem is that most likely is a 13" (cocktail) and he most likely won't find a flyback, However the 19" works with circuit mods...But I ain't the one to tell him that, cause I already tried pointing it out like 6 pages ago...That and the board is probibally in need of work now anyway...Good luck man.

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Re: Atari Centipede Cocktail table game has no power
« Reply #233 on: March 10, 2020, 03:11:00 pm »
I did miss it... I went back and looked..  good catch.
I'd still like to see the crud leaking out too..
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Re: Atari Centipede Cocktail table game has no power
« Reply #234 on: March 13, 2020, 06:13:29 am »
TGIF! Going into this weekend and into next week, I’m on a mission to replace the caps, X01 and flyback transformer. The only wall I’m confronted with is the fact that it appears that no one carries a T502 (A19183-A). What do others do that have a 13” monitor and need a flyback? When reading the reviews on the 19” flybacks, used for a 13” monitor, repair techs are saying that the video output display will be larger and require modification of the circuitry. Thanks for that link by the way, showing how to test and replace all these parts.  All seems necessary but somewhat time consuming. Starting with the caps and H/Out, will definitely keep me busy for a while. Maybe I should see if I can find a good used flyback? Any suggestions? Have a good weekend all!

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Re: Atari Centipede Cocktail table game has no power
« Reply #235 on: March 16, 2020, 06:32:33 am »
Good morning all. Above parts have now been ordered, except for the flyback. I’ll probably order that part when I return from vacation. Has anybody seen or come across any videos on the circuit modifications that are necessary when using a flyback for a 19” monitor? I’m curious as to the extent of this endeavor. With my vacation quickly approaching and the additional work required on this monitor circuitry, my forum communications will be limited. The next time I turn this game on, all the new parts will be in place and hopefully I’ll just need to make minor adjustments. Thanks again for everyone’s suggestions and support. :)

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Re: Atari Centipede Cocktail table game has no power
« Reply #236 on: March 17, 2020, 09:34:36 am »
Its going to be pretty difficult to help fix a CRT via a forum... 

Were you able to test the horizontal output transistor?
Do you have a visible crack and leaking from the flyback?  I've only seen the picture from above.. you can remove that now and check all around it..

Replacing everything can make things worse w/o knowing if these are the only two issues..



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vapuser

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Re: Atari Centipede Cocktail table game has no power
« Reply #237 on: March 17, 2020, 10:32:04 am »
Good morning Perkins, Yes, I was able to test the horizontal output transistor and it is bad. I believe it had a reading of .002. I believe it's shorted out. As far as the flyback is concerned, there is no visible signs of damage. No visible cracks or leaking. Other than being dirty, it looks good. When you say that "I can remove that now", do you mean that I could de-solder the flyback from the board now? If you think it will help, I can take more pictures of the flyback from different angles. Those parts I ordered should be here any day now. For sure I need to replace the H/Out. What do you think?

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Re: Atari Centipede Cocktail table game has no power
« Reply #238 on: March 17, 2020, 10:46:54 am »
My flyback is bolted on so its easy to remove and inspect the area I can't see.
If there are no VISIBLE cracks and leaks on your flyback, I'd put the horizontal output transistor in and try it that way.  Whats the worse thing that can happen?  You blow a $4 part?  You already know its bad and its the #1 part that fails..

If the flyback is soldered to the board and there is the potential for a crack/leak on the underside of it that isn't visible.. Remove it and be sure.  If its clean, I'd put it back and test it with the new transistor.  Their *normal* failure is overheat, crack, melt, eject goo...  If none of that is happening..  why replace it?

Install the transistor - 10 minutes work and see if progress is made.


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Atari Centipede Cocktail table game has no power
« Reply #239 on: March 17, 2020, 11:07:39 am »
If there are no VISIBLE cracks and leaks on your flyback, I'd put the horizontal output transistor in and try it that way.  Whats the worse thing that can happen?  You blow a $4 part?  You already know its bad and its the #1 part that fails..

Install the transistor - 10 minutes work and see if progress is made.

That’s why I usually get multiples of any chip, IC, or transistors I order, if possible. You never know....
***Build what you dig, bro. Build what you dig.***