Atari Centipede Cocktail table game has no power

Arcade Collecting > Restorations & repair

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Mike A:
You are getting power at the coin door. Are you saying that the coin reject lights are dead?

If so, are the bulbs blown?

vapuser:
Good morning all, I wanted to start this morning by answering all the above questions. regarding bperkins01's concerns, I started checking all the ground connections for continuity. I started from pin 4,5 on the p.s.(J5) connector. There is ground continuity at that point. I checked all these ground locations by clipping a 2 foot jumper cable to the p.s. chassis and connecting the meter to the other end of the jumper. I also pulled out the Regulator Audio PCB and checked the P10 plug and P6 plug. Both grounds at those locations are good. The interlock ground is good as is the ground at the Dual Coin Mechanism. I also didn't want to assume that the ground connection from the wall Receptacle was good so I checked that out as well. Then at connector J4 (from the AC outlet) I put my volt meter across pins 2,1 (Ground and black) to verify that I was getting a voltage, which I was. So It appears that all grounds so far are all good. I couldn't find the ground at the PCB board (J20), but I'll look again tonight. Speaking of the PCB board that LED light is not lit. So it does appear that everything is dead including the monitor. I am getting power at the coin door (6.3 VAC across pins 10,11). But no lights. So I took the coin mechanism out of the chassis and checked the bulbs. One was blown and the other one was questionable. So I went on Amazon and ordered a pack of those 6.3v .25a mini indicator bulbs. While I had the coin mechanism out I also checked the two mini switches. Those were working fine as well. I reassembled everything and scratched my head some more. :dunno I'll continue checking voltages at the regulator and see If I can find that ground connection at J20.

Mike A:

--- Quote from: Mike A on February 10, 2020, 08:21:41 am ---If you have power to the 3 pin monitor plug then it is time to follow that power to where is stops on the monitor chassis.

--- End quote ---

bperkins01:
Hmm.
On the PCB there are a number of test points:
+5v <- Most important one if you don't have this - that is why the PCB is dead
-5v
+15v
-15v
+22v (unregulated - it will likely be 22-24v range)
-22v (same)
-30V

If you have no LED on the PCB - see if anything is getting to it at all by checking these test points.

On the ARII there are a similar set
-5v
+12v
+10.3v (Unregulated)
+22v UR
-22v UR

36v AC (this one is trickier - you have to use both probes on both 36v connections and your meter on AC)

The 2N3055 bottlecap transistor in the center of the large heatsink is a known troublemaker and creates all the power. If your voltage test points on the ARII are all screwed up. It's likely that.

I literally did all of this last night on my machine (Centipede upright)
The -5v Voltage regulator on my ARII was dead (Had one of those and replaced it - except I'm not certain it actually does anything I just found it - its part of the audio circuit. The very first time I played it the volume did a few weird things after the game warmed up.. So maybe that's fixed too.)

The +15V regulator was dead on my PCB - It is part of the high score retention circuit. Waiting for one of those to come, and I had issues with it..

You've checked the power brick - next layer on the voltage front is ARII - then test points on the PCB..
Coin door lighting comes of the ARII - not the PCB

Finally - what MikeA said - if you are getting nothing to the monitor - need to test voltage into it and check the fuse.. The CRT is pretty much a stand alone circuit.

Keep digging...

Mike A:
Can you snap some pics of the PCB? Both sides. Especially the edge connector.

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