| Arcade Collecting > Restorations & repair |
| Atari Centipede Cocktail table game has no power |
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| PL1:
--- Quote from: vapuser on February 17, 2020, 07:40:39 am ---So, if I'm understanding this correctly, by using the bridge rectifier instead of the full wave rectifier configuration, the circuit is drawing twice the current. Thus, blowing the fuses across the secondary winding of the transformer. This sounds like why both F2 and F3 fuses are blowing when power is turned on. --- End quote --- F2 and F3 blowing showed that you wired the bridge across that entire secondary winding (orange to orange) instead of one end to the center tap (orange to violet) which would only blow the fuse on that one orange line. I haven't found a clear explaination what would happen to the current draw if you use a bridge rectifier in place of a full wave. :dunno Of course, that doesn't matter because you have the original board and it is easy to replace bad diodes. ;D --- Quote from: vapuser on February 17, 2020, 07:40:39 am ---Do you think I'll need to replace the two diodes on the board? --- End quote --- You'll need to test them. Scott |
| vapuser:
Good morning all, Scott, thanks for that video above. Since I have to take the diodes out of the circuit to test, I thought I would just replace them. I also found another video on how to test a diode without a meter. They showed just using a 9 volt battery an LED and a 220 ohm resister. Either way seemed to be simple enough. I'm going to order those parts this morning. Maybe while I'm waiting for parts to come in I'll remove the monitor and take a closer look at the burned out chip. I know I'm going to have to order that part as well eventually. Thanks again for all that research. Have a good day. |
| jennifer:
And a cap kit...And a flyback, because that it most likely what welded that regulator like that with leaky high voltage, be carefull working on that thing. |
| PL1:
--- Quote from: vapuser on February 18, 2020, 06:28:01 am ---Since I have to take the diodes out of the circuit to test, I thought I would just replace them. --- End quote --- You don't need to desolder/remove the diodes from this board to test them. - Black lead on the left and red lead on the right = forward biased. Even if the board was fully installed, removing the "+" connection (lower left hole) or removing F2 and F3 would ensure there is no complete parallel path through other components that could cause misleading multimeter readings. For circuits where there is no easy disconnect to isolate the diode (i.e. relay with snubber diode at 0:55), you can test it in-circuit using the resistance scale on your meter. Scott |
| vapuser:
Good morning all. I took the time last night to test out the rectifier diodes on the board before replacing them. Please see the pics below to verify that these diodes may be ok. I used the diode setting on my volt ohm meter. With the positive probe of my meter on the cathode of the diode it always read 1, which on my meter is open (no continuity). With the negative probe of the meter on the cathode the reading keep changing. It read anywhere from 002 to 008. Just wondering if that is an acceptable range. I also switched the setting over to ohms, just to see what those readings would be. With the positive probe on the cathode the reading was the same as above for both diodes (no continuity). With the negative probe on the cathode for both diodes the reading was anywhere from .02 to 7.0. That reading keep changing as well. Do you think those readings may be acceptable? :dunno |
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