Arcade Collecting > Restorations & repair |
Atari Centipede Cocktail table game has no power |
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bperkins01:
I ended up upgrading wifi yesterday. The rectifier item is a good catch. If the on/off switch + interlock = sends power to pop the fuses - that certainly makes sense. It doesn't make sense that if you bypass them with jumpers at the power brick - nothing happens. But again - really hard to do this this remote. |
vapuser:
Good morning all. Scott, thanks for all the technical details of the two types of rectifiers. I had no idea that there would be a voltage difference. So, if I'm understanding this correctly, by using the bridge rectifier instead of the full wave rectifier configuration, the circuit is drawing twice the current. Thus, blowing the fuses across the secondary winding of the transformer. This sounds like why both F2 and F3 fuses are blowing when power is turned on. I'm glad I saved the full rectifier board. I pulled the brick out of the unit again and I'll reinstall the full wave rectifier circuit board tonight. Do you think I'll need to replace the two diodes on the board? I already restored the main fuse holder back to the original component. I agree Jen, it looked funky and I wouldn't have been able to easily replace that fuse if it ever blew. I included more pics below to show the bypassed switches, the new fuse holder and the full rectifier circuit board. bperkins01, your absolutely correct, it doesn't make any sense to me either. By bypassing the switches at both switch locations or by putting jumpers across J2 at the brick is accomplishing the exact same thing. That one is still stumping me! :banghead: I ordered two 7 amp circuit breakers. As soon as those come in, I'm going to hook them up and go over that scenario again. This is driving me crazy. |
vapuser:
The pic below is the interlock switch bypassed. |
vapuser:
This pic is the main power switch bypassed. |
vapuser:
This pic is the Full Bridge rectifier board that I will be reinstalling. |
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