| Arcade Collecting > Restorations & repair |
| Atari Centipede Cocktail table game has no power |
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| vapuser:
--- Quote ---1. You bypassed the interlock switch and the on/off switch with jumpers on the actual wiring harness (testing for bad switches), left it plugged into J2 on the power brick and the fuses blow. (yes/no?) --- End quote --- Ans: Yes. But I physically removed the switches. Then the dangling wires that were connected to the switches is where I placed the jumpers across. And with J2 plugged into the brick, the fuse blows. --- Quote ---2. You unplug J2 from P2 on the power brick, Jump pins 1 & 4 (black) and 2 & 5 (white) on P2 (on the power brick) and the fuses do not blow? --- End quote --- Correct. After looking at the schematic, That J2 being plugged into the brick only allows the unit to be switched on and off via the power switches. that's all. It doesn't supply voltage to anything. As a long shot, I'm going to again check the continuity on the white and black wires from the P2 connector on the brick to the white and black wires at the switches. Like I said before, maybe I shouldn't have put in that bridge rectifier. The schematic that Mike sent me were different from the original schematic that I was working from. My schematic shows a bridge rectifier. Mike's schematic shows two diods instead of 4. Could that be the problem??? :dunno |
| bperkins01:
--- Quote from: vapuser on February 16, 2020, 10:33:57 am --- --- Quote ---1. You bypassed the interlock switch and the on/off switch with jumpers on the actual wiring harness (testing for bad switches), left it plugged into J2 on the power brick and the fuses blow. (yes/no?) --- End quote --- Ans: Yes. But I physically removed the switches. Then the dangling wires that were connected to the switches is where I placed the jumpers across. And with J2 plugged into the brick, the fuse blows. --- Quote ---2. You unplug J2 from P2 on the power brick, Jump pins 1 & 4 (black) and 2 & 5 (white) on P2 (on the power brick) and the fuses do not blow? --- End quote --- Correct. After looking at the schematic, That J2 being plugged into the brick only allows the unit to be switched on and off via the power switches. that's all. It doesn't supply voltage to anything. As a long shot, I'm going to again check the continuity on the white and black wires from the P2 connector on the brick to the white and black wires at the switches. Like I said before, maybe I shouldn't have put in that bridge rectifier. The schematic that Mike sent me were different from the original schematic that I was working from. My schematic shows a bridge rectifier. Mike's schematic shows two diods instead of 4. Could that be the problem??? :dunno --- End quote --- #1 - The short is here.. Its not the switches - its the wiring - somewhere you have a black/white wire touching or black to ground or white to ground.. The on/off switch and interlock switch to the EXACT same thing as #2 above. it just allows the power brick to come on.. It still strange they are taking out the fuses on the secondary side - unless one of those wires is actually shorted to the secondary side (or mis-wired to it more likely) either of those wires on the harness, shorting to the secondary side would to that.. I think you are on the 1 yard line... |
| vapuser:
Check out reply 32 for a pic of the underside of the brick. That will show the Bridge rectifier and the big blue cap. |
| vapuser:
--- Quote ---somewhere you have a black/white wire touching or black to ground or white to ground.. --- End quote --- I believe from above statement, white to ground is fine. In the main panel box the whites and bare ground wires are all on the same bus. But black to white would be a short as well as Black to ground. Please tell me if there is something unique in this box that I'm not aware of. I'm pretty sure I checked and got continuity between white and ground. I'll check again. |
| Mike A:
I will pull my monitor this afternoon so we can compare wiring jobs. I will take a bunch of pics. Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk |
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