Atari Centipede Cocktail table game has no power

Arcade Collecting > Restorations & repair

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Mike A:
Jenn knows more than I do, but you have to catch her before she starts smoking meth.

jennifer:
Funny man...The fact you are willing to pull your monitor out for this guy, says alot about your character 😘

vapuser:
Ya know, now that I'm thinking about it, I bet this has been the situation from the beginning. If you remember, back in the beginning of this thread, you suggested to first check all the fuses. I mentioned that the two 7 amp fuses were blown and I replaced them with 10 amp fuses that I purchased at the hardware store. I thought that I would leave those in until my order of 7 amp fuses came in the mail. Not realizing that those fuses blew immediately as soon as I turned the power on. I just now checked them and sure enough, they're toast. So when the fuses came in the mail the other day I replaced those 10 amp fuses (which I thought were still good), with the 7 amp fuses. Then before turning the power on, I replaced those parts on the ARII and turned the game on for the first time with fresh fuses in place. All the while, keeping my eye on the PCB LED. And that's when I noticed that the LED came on for a second and then immediately went off. Also realizing that the 7 amp fuses were blowing immediately! Mike, I checked my receptacle outlet when I started to check all the ground connections. Remember, I didn't want to assume that the receptacle was wired correctly. Oh, by the way, the bulbs for the coin mechanism also came in and work perfectly. It's nice to see that at least those lights turn on when I turn the machine on. So bperkins01, I like your idea above, I'm going to go try that now. I'll let you know what I find. Oh crap, I'm out of fuses. Looks like I'll have to order more. Jen, I like your idea about a 7 amp circuit breaker. I'll have to put one together. Thanks!

bperkins01:
Was your CRT plugged in when the fuses blew?

bperkins01:
Actually - thinking through it...
It's probably not the CRT - because its on the isolation side of the transformer.

Looking on that side of the transformer for 120V:
- Interlock switches
- J4A for marquee lighting (Does the cocktail even use this connector?)
- Yellow voltage selector wire block
- EMI Filter..

You tested with the interlock switches connected - My hunch is since everything worked properly with the testing jumper in place. You may have a short in one of the interlock switches. If you look at their schematic - they are double pole double throw. A short there would explain what you are seeing..

Easy to test for short with a meter.
- or -
Disconnect everything from the power brick - put any fuse in the 7A socket (it won't matter for this test) - connect the interlock switches and turn them on/off - if the fuse blows - then you found the short...

Make sense??

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