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| vholfx:
It's Steel Gunner 1 with the 22's gun (with the round thing on the back). By the way, they work great in terms of range, I was able to reach across all screen without issues with both guns, I tested all 4 corners, all worked out. Maybe this are better than the Taito ones? I guess the solenoids still work, there's a cylinder at the tip of the gun that goes in and out when I fire which is lose. If I hold it slightly, it will keep working but if I let it go it stops. Like I said, I was told there's a metal piece that holds that part of the gun which is either gone or worn out and I should be able to fix it. I'm not sure how much of that is true, but seems that way to me and I'm hopeful it can be repaired, what do you think? As for the Generation X cab, that guy is not selling it, he's just willing to let it go for the price he's asking, so he has no incentive at all to lower the price (already asked, offered to pay in cash right there, he didn't even flinch, price is set on stone). I've seen this cabs being sold for up to 2k around here, so his price is actually not that bad, but not a bargain either. At this point I think I will pass on the Gunblade (unless the guy accepts something like 100$ delivered, the cab is in really great shape). Room is not the issue but the time I have to work on this machines is, and I hate having non-working cabs for months or even years sitting around. |
| Zebra:
The 22's are a completely different gun under the hood. If they feel nice in terms of motion, I'd go for it. Personally, I don't care the look of those guns but I don't like the look of my Gen X guns either and it doesn't seem to matter when I am playing. Luckily, there is s guy on ebay who has a few of recoil mechanisms for those guns for sale. He's asking to much but at least you have a back up option if it turns out not to be fixable. In my experience, it's fairly common to be able to restore recoil solenoids back to factory performance by simply cleaning them and applying a decent lube. I use engine oil applied with a syringe. They get filthy over time and a lot of arcade owners neglect basic maintenance. Without regular oil, they overheat and break. If that doesn't work, change the diode and check the coil. If the coil isn't burnt out them almost everything else can be fixed. |
| vholfx:
--- Quote from: Zebra on December 01, 2019, 12:25:34 pm ---The 22's are a completely different gun under the hood. If they feel nice in terms of motion, I'd go for it. Personally, I don't care the look of those guns but I don't like the look of my Gen X guns either and it doesn't seem to matter when I am playing. Luckily, there is s guy on ebay who has a few of recoil mechanisms for those guns for sale. He's asking to much but at least you have a back up option if it turns out not to be fixable. In my experience, it's fairly common to be able to restore recoil solenoids back to factory performance by simply cleaning them and applying a decent lube. I use engine oil applied with a syringe. They get filthy over time and a lot of arcade owners neglect basic maintenance. Without regular oil, they overheat and break. If that doesn't work, change the diode and check the coil. If the coil isn't burnt out them almost everything else can be fixed. --- End quote --- Great to hear this are fixable if the coil is good. I've attached a picture with an arrow pointing to the piece I have to hold slightly for the recoil mechanism to work, I was told there's a missing or worn out "washer or something" by the vendor, he insists that it can be replaced. What do you think? |
| Zebra:
You need to buy some security screw drivers and open it up to see what's going on and, specifically, what you are actually doing when you push the end to make it recoil. You might be bridging a loose connection or helping the solenoid grip the brass knocker mechanism. Your gun has a long shaft with a brass knocker that should be attached to your solenoid. The "washer" may also refer to little grip that holds the spring and solenoid plunger in place. Either way, you'll have to open it up to identify which wires go where. Once you do, the issue will likely be obvious. These devices are not complicated. Solenoids only have two wires (+ and -) going in with a diode between them. While you are in there, make sure to clean the solenoid plunger and apply oil. I found automotive bearing oil to be the best but any long-lasting thin lube oil will work. |
| vholfx:
Well, I guess we'll find out soon enough. We managed to strike a deal and I got the cab :) so excited. Many more pictures to come in a few days |
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