Centipede restoration - My first - There will be plenty of pics

Arcade Collecting > Restorations & repair

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Mike A:
Nice. I wish I had the patience to do that kind of work.

bperkins01:
@Arroyo - yes - that is the new T-Molding you pointed me too - really nice stuff. Its installed on there. Looks just like the original.

This side wasn't *too* bad. I started on the other side.. Its a bit more of a challenge - so glad I practiced on the good side. I'm hoping to have the second side done this week.

@Mike - thanks man ;)

bperkins01:
Ok - here is a sneak preview of the next installment.

Yesterday I sanded the expanded particleboard down to the old T-molding and sealed the wood with CPES.

I ran out to the shop and mixed up a batch of epoxy and wood flower, filled in all the bad parts and skimmed the rough particle board surface (just like drywall).
I prefer to let epoxy cure 24-36 hours. Tomorrow night I'll smooth it out and see what I get. ???

bperkins01:
Now for the bad side....

Having practiced on the better of the two sides. This side had particleboard that had expanded quite a bit larger than the T-molding. This line is very noticeable - it was 1/8" along the bottom edge and the surface of the panel has a pebbly texture to it..

I put the T-molding back and sanded the side down to the edge of the molding as a guide (same as the first side) and generally tried to keep the area as flat as I could. The artwork is a bit raised due to the wood expansion - but its a trade-off - it stays as is..

Once it was all leveled off, it got a couple coats of CPES. After it set over night I mixed up epoxy and wood flour and skimmed on a coat to fill in the texture of the particle board and filled in all the dings around the edges. I let this cure overnight.

The goal is not to add to the surface - more to fill in the texture - same as Bondo. Epoxy is just stronger than Bondo and will add some stability to the material and limit moisture absorption.

Looks like a big mess - I was a bit nervous about it myself..

But it worked out nearly as good as the first side. The color match of the paint is right there. I had to roll on a 2 coats, wet sand with 320 to blend it a bit, then roll on another coat and wet sand with 600 to blend it a bit.. Then added here and there where it was thin.

After that I ran into a problem that took me about a week to resolve. The color match was great - in flat lighting. If you caught the light from the side to see the gloss - you got several different glosses. Shiny glossy original, the scuffed areas where the latex meets the original surface, flat areas, dull areas, etc.

My first inclination - spray on semi-gloss clear (standard Rustoleum) Did a quick test spray on the newly fixed areas. It turned the latex yellow instantly. REALLY not a compatible paint. I had to sand it off and repaint. Thankfully I only did a small area..

I tried a water based spray on clear coat Minwax Polycrylic - On a test piece this time. It just beaded up like water on a windshield.. Fail...

I even tried buffing and polishing compound used for auto detailing, but it just didn't seem to work right with the different materials.

Final answer: Wipe on (or brush) water based polyurethane. Quick wipe with a cloth over all of the repaired areas and just overlapped the artwork a bit. It leveled the sheen to be a lot less noticeable. In flat light - you can't see the repairs. I'm going to mess with this a bit more. Maybe a light rub with extra fine Scotchbright pad to see how that works. But this sealed up the surface and took away most of the differences in gloss.

New T-molding on and a good 1/8" of expanded particle board removed. I painted the edges black before adding the T-molding of course.

If you run a flat hand over the bottom area - there surface is not flat. The wood below the artwork had puffed up a bit. When its upright next to the floor. Looks like new.

I still need to go back and correct the side art itself. There are many black lines that are easy to correct. I also found a very good match for the yellow. The other colors I'm going to try to color match and use the sample paints from HD. But I wanted to get it on its feet again.

bperkins01:
It's been a while since I worked on the coin door - I've been working on the cabinet.

The cabinet is now going back together and it's time to reinstall the coin door.

Not a huge update - screw heads cleaned and repainted. Coin door and marquee brackets repainted. Nothing complicated. But I will say this particular paint is perfect for the job. The sheen matches the original nearly perfectly.. One thin coat and all the parts look original.

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