GUN4IR - The Ultimate 4 Points Lightgun System

[cybermat]

I will use 8 LEDS. 2 for each point.

If i fill according to specs https://www.everlight.com/file/ProductFile/IR333-A.pdf

5
1.5
50
8

[cybermat]

If i would like to buy these https://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/89554/KINGBRIGHT/L-53F3C.html

Is it correct entering the following ?

 Source voltage 5
diode forward voltage 1.5
diode forward current (mA) 50
number of LEDs in your array 8

[PL1]

If i would like to buy these https://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/89554/KINGBRIGHT/L-53F3C.html

That datasheet covers eight different LEDs with different ratings.   

Is it correct entering the following ?

 Source voltage 5
diode forward voltage 1.5
diode forward current (mA) 50
number of LEDs in your array 8

Looking at the L-53F3C datasheet at https://datasheet.octopart.com/L-53F3C-Kingbright-datasheet-13425907.pdf

Page 2, Absolute Maximum Ratings table -- DC Forward Current -- I_F -- 50mA.

It's usually not a good idea to run LEDs at the max rating.
- They will burn out faster.

-------------------
If you want the calculator to return the resistor value for 2 LEDs and a resistor per row x 4 rows:
- Enter #LEDs = 2
- The calculator will return 2 LEDs and a resistor in one row.
- Four rows like that wired in parallel will draw four times the current of a single row.

or

If the calculator returns 4 LEDs and a resistor per row, you can add a long wire between the 2nd and 3rd LED to break it into 2 groups. i.e. mount 1st and 2nd LEDs at the first point then run a wire to the 3rd and 4th LEDs and resistor mounted at the second point.


Scott

[cybermat]

I cannot find any link where i can purchase easily these leds SID1K10CM , so i'm looking for leds with the same specs but SID1K10CM are high powerful leds as per what i understood.

So for this model https://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/89554/KINGBRIGHT/L-53F3C.html according to the specs and your suggestions i will put these data

Source voltage 5
diode forward voltage 1.5
diode forward current (mA) 20
number of LEDs in your array 8

Are they powerful enough for 1/1.5 meter distance ?

[PL1]

So for this model https://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/89554/KINGBRIGHT/L-53F3C.html according to the specs and your suggestions i will put these data

Once again, that datasheet is for a series of eight different LEDs with four different sets of specs.   

Specify EXACTLY which P/N of the eight on page 1 you are asking about or find a datasheet that covers just the one P/N you want.   

diode forward voltage 1.5
diode forward current (mA) 20

Look at the four "Forward Current vs. Forward Voltage" charts on pages 3-5.

None of those charts show the curve passing through the point at the intersection of 1.5v on the X-axis and 20mA on the Y-axis.
- The values you plug into the calculator must describe a point on the curve or you'll get worthless, incorrect info -- garbage in, garbage out.
- The current draw depends on the voltage drop across that specific LED P/N.
- The curve describes the relationship between those values for that specific LED P/N.
- If you want a specific current draw, trace that value horizontally until it meets the curve, then go straight down to find the associated voltage.
-- Chart on page 3, start at 20 mA on the Y-axis, go right until you reach the curve then go straight down to 1.2v or
-- Chart on page 3, start at 40 mA on the Y-axis, go right until you reach the curve then go straight down to about 1.26v.
- If you want a specific voltage, trace that value vertically until it meets the curve, then go straight left to find the associated current draw.

Are they powerful enough for 1/1.5 meter distance ?

I'll let JayBee answer this question since he has hands-on experience designing/building these and should be able to compare the datasheet for his LEDs to the datasheet for your LEDs once you clarify exactly which LED P/N you are asking about.


Scott

[cybermat]

The link of L-53F3C was right...but the site has a kind of protection

https://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/89554/KINGBRIGHT/L-53F3C/+5JW55UhGLGwyKIlZfSHEDP.O+/datasheet.pdf

PART number is L-53F3C , according to your suggestions and datasheet

Source voltage 5
diode forward voltage 1.26
diode forward current (mA) 40
number of LEDs in your array 8

[JayBee]

I'll let JayBee answer this question since he has hands-on experience designing/building these and should be able to compare the datasheet for his LEDs to the datasheet for your LEDs once you clarify exactly which LED P/N you are asking about.

Thanks for helping bro 

The link of L-53F3C was right...but the site has a kind of protection

https://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/89554/KINGBRIGHT/L-53F3C/+5JW55UhGLGwyKIlZfSHEDP.O+/datasheet.pdf

PART number is L-53F3C , according to your suggestions and datasheet

Source voltage 5
diode forward voltage 1.26
diode forward current (mA) 40
number of LEDs in your array 8

Your link is still not working.
But from the ref the leds aren't bright enough (Radiant Intensity (Ie): 30mW/Sr).
So you might want something brighter, and if possible with a bit higher angle (50~100mW/sr minimum with 30degrees).
From my experience IR leds are sadly a bit trial and error, as the real performance might vary a lot from the datasheets specs.
Anyway if you go this route, I'd recommend you to use 3 leds for each point instead, 2 isn't always enough and cause misdetections.

[Howard_Casto]

You know if it's that much of a struggle just hack up a couple of those offbrand wii sensor bars you can get for a song on aliexpress. 

[cybermat]

alldatasheet seems have protection in case of direct link

Anyway i tried to buy the leds you indicated, but i read they come from Japan. There is an italian user that bought this one

https://pdf1.alldatasheetit.com/datasheet-pdf/view/321971/LIGITEK/LIR3333-H0-PF.html , but at the moment ebay seller has finished them.

So i started to find leds with the suggested specs and started learning how the site of led wizard works. If any user would like to share leds used, resistor scheme and where to buy , will be appreciated.

[PL1]

PART number is L-53F3C , according to your suggestions and datasheet

Source voltage 5
diode forward voltage 1.26
diode forward current (mA) 40
number of LEDs in your array 8

Thanks for the clarification on the P/N.   

I know you won't be using these LEDs, but here's how to check the LED calculator results:

1. Solve for resistor voltage drop (single resistor)
W = V * A (wattage formula)
W/A = V
108.8mW/40mA = 2.72v

2. Solve for current draw through the resistor. (ensures voltage in step 1 is right)
E = I * R (ohm's law)
E/R = I
2.72v/68 ohms = 40mA

3. Solve for voltage drop across each LED
(Source voltage - resistor voltage)/2 = voltage drop across each LED
(5v-2.72v)/2 = 1.14v per LED

4. Run that 1.14v LED voltage drop through the chart on pg 3 of the datasheet and you get about 8mA.   

The calculator provided a VERY safe current limiting resistor value that will make your LEDs VERY dim.
----------------------
https://ledcalculator.net/#p=5&v=1.26&c=40&n=2&o=w

Using the same values as above, this calculator returns a resistor value of 62 ohms, 5% or better tolerance, 1/8W (min.) or 1/4W (better heat dissipation) for 2 LEDs and one resistor per row.

1. Solve for resistor voltage drop (single resistor)
W = V * A (wattage formula)
W/A = V
99.2mW/40mA = 2.48v

2. Solve for current draw through the resistor. (ensures voltage in step 1 is right)
E = I * R (ohm's law)
E/R = I
2.48v/62 ohms = 40mA

3. Solve for voltage drop across each LED
(Source voltage - resistor voltage)/2 = voltage drop across each LED
(5v-2.48v)/2 = 1.26v per LED

4. Run that 1.26v LED voltage drop through the chart on pg 3 of the datasheet and you get about 40mA.
---------------
You're working on a very steep part of the curve so even a small change in resistor value results in a very large change in current.
- Might be worth the effort and expense to use a variable resistor.   

Another good LED calculator site: http://ledcalc.com/

Good luck finding suitable LEDs.   


Scott

[JayBee]

Note that in the discord server in the pinned posts there is a newer led system I built, that uses high power smd LEDs and works way better than any other led systems.
It's a bit more expensive and require a bit more experience and trial and error, but it makes a huge difference.

[hyo2012]

JayBee, I send a PM 

[sniiki]

Just recently built a control box even though it's missing punch of other stuff too like trackball and spinners, I personally mostly yearn for a pair of guns. As there's not many options on the market for a calibration free systems, I started experimenting with a regular RGB camera and OpenCV with screen edge detection. Quick tests are somewhat promising but might have too much lag in the end so to get something a usable sooner, I ordered the HW for pair of Arduino IR guns.

@JayBee I'm more than happy to support you but still would of course want to receive the licence too and reading the red text in the first post, not that sure if I will as a fresh forum member?

[JayBee]

Just recently built a control box even though it's missing punch of other stuff too like trackball and spinners, I personally mostly yearn for a pair of guns. As there's not many options on the market for a calibration free systems, I started experimenting with a regular RGB camera and OpenCV with screen edge detection. Quick tests are somewhat promising but might have too much lag in the end so to get something a usable sooner, I ordered the HW for pair of Arduino IR guns.

@JayBee I'm more than happy to support you but still would of course want to receive the licence too and reading the red text in the first post, not that sure if I will as a fresh forum member?

Yeah that's the main problem of using a normal cam for this task, it takes lot of power and have quite a lot of latency, especially if the cam doesn't have high frame rate.
The cam we use in this project is not perfect, far from it, but it's very fast and convenient to use.

[Howard_Casto]

Yeah it's essentially the wiimote camera right?  So it's purpose built for this. 

[JayBee]

Yeah it's essentially the wiimote camera right?  So it's purpose built for this.

Yes pretty much. Still searching for a better alternative, but haven't found one yet.

[JayBee]

Last changelogs I didn't have time to post here:

*2020/06/28 - GUI v0.89beta - Firmware v2.24
- UI: preventing the UI to crash when calibration give weird numbers
- Firmware: calibration more stable and accurate

*2020/07/30 - GUI v0.90beta
- Added a temporary fix to prevent the app from crashing if the gun somehow has wrong settings saved, and asks you if you want to reset it to default.
- Fixed a bug where you can't switch between keyboard and mouse buttons on saved buttons settings

*2020/08/20 - GUI v0.92beta - Firmware v2.25
Firmware:
- big overall of the IR camera code. You can now change the camera sensitivity to different levels, allow to fit your setup way more.
UI:
- adding the camera sensitivity option.
- changed the way the GUI upload the gun settings, now it doesn't reboot the gun anymore, it's a lot faster.

*2020/08/20 - GUI v0.93beta
- fixed a bug that prevented from uploading the settings

The biggest update lately is adding the sensitivity levels that you can now change! so you can fit the camera to your setup way more easily.

[JayBee]

*2020/08/21 - GUI v0.94beta - Firmware 2.26
- firmware: fixed a bug that prevented the sensitivity profiles to load correctly
- GUI: removed the custom max sensitivity level, as it's not working correctly

[janderclander14]

The biggest update lately is adding the sensitivity levels that you can now change! so you can fit the camera to your setup way more easily.

Thanks a lot for this. May I ask what the different sensitivity settings do and which criteria should be used to prefer one or the other?

[JayBee]

The biggest update lately is adding the sensitivity levels that you can now change! so you can fit the camera to your setup way more easily.

Thanks a lot for this. May I ask what the different sensitivity settings do and which criteria should be used to prefer one or the other?

As the name imply, they are just different level of sensitivity for the IR camera. The lower the sensitivity is, the less you will get light parasites, but the more difficult it will be to pick up led points if you are far or they aren't strong enough.
To choose the mode, you can either start from lowest setting, test it, and increase as long as it's working well. Or the other way around.

[JayBee]

Important update:

Lately with the testing crew, we've been trying something new; adding smartphone wide or fish eye lenses to the camera.
It seems to work quite well in this system, and reduces the minimum distance by a huge margin.
But since all lenses have different specs, the results on them varies from working perfectly to having inconsistencies in the aiming.

So if you are interested, I invite you to test out any wide or fish eye lenses you possess, and report the results you get here.
It will allow us to know which ones work better and make a list for anyone who wants to get one 

The testing process is simple;
Align the lens with the camera, attach it temporarily with something, like tape, do a simple gun calibration, and play some games, see how close you can get from the screen.

Template for reporting it if you want;

Lens used:
Lens specs (zoom, angle...):
Screen size and aspect ratio:
LEDs used:
Minimum distance without lens:
Minimum distance with lens:
Comments on how well it works:

[Jardielsilva]

Impressionante trabalho, parabéns!!! Estou estudando seus posts para ver se consigo montar uma parecida, é  um sonho que tenho a muito tempo.

[Jardielsilva]

Olá!! Amigo, consegui comprar emissores TSAL6200, acha que eles sao bons para o projeto?

[JayBee]

Hello!
Sorry I don't speak Portuguese.
But to answer to your questions, yes the led looks nice, however it has a low angle, meaning it would be better to make each of your 4 led points with 3leds combined.

[Jardielsilva]

Thanks for the info.

[Jardielsilva]

I'm going to mount this light gun, does this solenoid need a temperature sensor or is it optional?

[JayBee]

I'm going to mount this light gun, does this solenoid need a temperature sensor or is it optional?

The sensor is always optional, but it's useful if you're not sure how hot the solenoid gets while working 

[Jardielsilva]

In progress

[Jardielsilva]

Hello Friend. I am not able to make it work, the mame hooker does not recognize the arduino, I put the output in mame.ini (windows). I configured mame.exe on mamehooker ...

[JayBee]

Hello Friend. I am not able to make it work, the mame hooker does not recognize the arduino, I put the output in mame.ini (windows). I configured mame.exe on mamehooker ...

That's normal.
To connect mamehooker to the arduino you need to use the serial commands, it won't be recognized as a supported device.
More info on my first post.

[Jardielsilva]

I understood what you said, I already built all the hardware, I read your post but I'm a beginner in Arduino and I don't know how to do this part of sending the command via serial. if you could explain, i would appreciate it too much. and I would like to purchase the GUI, how can I help you?

[JayBee]

No problem, I understand.

Mamehooker isn't very user friendly with serial commands, you need to read the full mamehooker tutorials here:
http://dragonking.arcadecontrols.com/static.php?page=mhtutorials
Basically you need to setup both mame (windows output option), and mamehooker (for sound notification for instance).
Then open any game that is compatible with mamehooker. It should notify you of new outputs. Once done, open the mamehooker folder, the mame subfolder, and the game .ini file.
Inside the file, you need to input the various command and modes needed to trigger the feedback.
I will post a sample file later to show you.

And of course you have to install my firmware first, or else the the arduino won't understand the commands 😉

[Jardielsilva]

I will study everything. how do I download your current firmware and GUI? thanks for all the help.

e-mail: jardielnascimento@gmail.com

[JayBee]

The archive containing everything is in my main post, as long as the explanations for everything 

[Jardielsilva]

Você já usou com pcsx e  pcsx2 ?

[Jardielsilva]

Amigo, fiz o processo para adquirir seus arquivos. Poderia conferir?

[JayBee]

Yes, it works with the epsxe and pcsx2 with the nuvee plugin, but this plugin is very old and not easy to use.
You can also use retroarch if your machine is powerful enough.

[JayBee]

Amigo, fiz o processo para adquirir seus arquivos. Poderia conferir?

I already sent it to you earlier 

[Jardielsilva]

Muito obrigado, estou estudando para ver como usar.

[JayBee]

Anytime