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| GUN4IR - The Ultimate 4 Points Lightgun System |
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| Zebra:
--- Quote from: JayBee on November 05, 2019, 02:03:48 am --- --- Quote from: hyo2012 on November 04, 2019, 10:14:30 pm ---JayBee, Can you add analog input feature on firmware? 2 axis are ok. I have fixed analog arcade gun. I use it playing Let's go island, Terminator 2 arcade... etc. It has two potentiometer, x-axis and y-axis. No pcb inside. If analog inputs are supported, I can play both rail-shooter game which support analog gun and only support mouse input. And that gun has built in solenoid, your firmware has solenoid automatic recoil output, that make easy to setup. How great. --- End quote --- This kind of fixed gun tech has nothing to do with the IR cam tech we are using here, it would require a totally different firmware. --- End quote --- That's not 100% accurate. Most arcade IR gun I/O boards output as regular analog joysticks. In most cases you can use a positional gun instead of an IR gun with the same arcade PCB. The I/O boards just translate the positional data to the same 0-5v signal you would have got from a pot for the X and Y axis. The is a video on Youtube of some guy using a Taito positional gun in place of the IR gun on that Rambo arcade game. |
| Mysli0210:
--- Quote from: JayBee on November 06, 2019, 01:33:28 am ---Ah yes, you're right, it seems fairly easy to connect the nunchuck with the i2c connection. We can even find some arduino libraries online. I will definitely try it when I have a bit more time. --- End quote --- Cool! --- Quote from: JayBee on November 06, 2019, 01:33:28 am ---Having small pcbs instead of one big is actually what I am doing in my guns, but despite being perfectly functional it looks very messy :lol But I guess there is no way around it if we want to fit it in any gun model. Daisy chaining is good, but when each point needs to be soldered somewhere (beside the GCon2 I completely replaced the guns original pcb, and they aren't arcade guns, just cheap PS2/Saturn guns), every time I have to add a ground (button or other) it gets complicated. I preferred making a small board where each ground is attached, even if it's a bit dirty. I will send you the schematics too once I make them clean. What software are you using for your schematics? --- End quote --- I used KiCad to design the schematics. yeah they need to be soldered somewhere, but most buttons do have 4 leads that are interconnected in pairs. I really dont see how having a lot of ground wires going to one pcb and then to the arduino is less messy nor easier to deal with :) (You should see the wiring of the joycons of my homebuilt arcade ::)) But if its such a hassle for you, i would suggest using enamel wire (the type where you can melt the insulation) to just use one wire that is soldered to each button. We could do something entirely else though. To make a pcb for each guntype, which would be way more expensive, though super easy to install. |
| JayBee:
--- Quote from: Zebra on November 06, 2019, 01:19:22 pm --- --- Quote from: JayBee on November 05, 2019, 02:03:48 am ---This kind of fixed gun tech has nothing to do with the IR cam tech we are using here, it would require a totally different firmware. --- End quote --- That's not 100% accurate. Most arcade IR gun I/O boards output as regular analog joysticks. In most cases you can use a positional gun instead of an IR gun with the same arcade PCB. The I/O boards just translate the positional data to the same 0-5v signal you would have got from a pot for the X and Y axis. The is a video on Youtube of some guy using a Taito positional gun in place of the IR gun on that Rambo arcade game. --- End quote --- I'm not saying that's impossible, I'm just saying my setup isn't compatible with it nor will be, that's not the purpose of it at all. It would require to do a special version that pretty much remove 90% or my code (IR detection and all), and change the rest significantly. So a brand new sketch... And before you ask, no it's not possible to add it to this sketch, because 1. All the analog pins are already in use for something else and 2. The sketch is already taking more than 80% of the Arduino flash, and I want to add more functions in the future. ;) Edit: By the way don't mix input and output. My sketch always had a joystick output, since the very first version :lol But it doesn't support joystick input that bypass the IR detection. However anyone who want to have a special version for that is free to use my 2 IR points sketch, which should work fine after removing the IR detection code. |
| JayBee:
--- Quote from: Mysli0210 on November 06, 2019, 03:01:38 pm ---I used KiCad to design the schematics. yeah they need to be soldered somewhere, but most buttons do have 4 leads that are interconnected in pairs. I really dont see how having a lot of ground wires going to one pcb and then to the arduino is less messy nor easier to deal with :) (You should see the wiring of the joycons of my homebuilt arcade ::)) But if its such a hassle for you, i would suggest using enamel wire (the type where you can melt the insulation) to just use one wire that is soldered to each button. We could do something entirely else though. To make a pcb for each guntype, which would be way more expensive, though super easy to install. --- End quote --- None of the buttons in my guns have 4 leads, they aren't arcade guns. My solution is sure not the best recommend one, but I did it to avoid touching the button boards and wires too much (I have no replacement if I damage them) or messing up with the button themselves. If I chain solder them and one point in the chain breaks or do wrong contact, it will be such a pain to troubleshoot. I also have grounds for other things than buttons, like solenoid and rumble. You can see pics of the inside of my guns to understand what I mean: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,161192.0.html They changed a lot since I took those pics, but you get the global idea. Yeah we could do a different pcb for each, but like you said, it would be expensive, and not sure if it's worth it ;) |
| Mysli0210:
--- Quote from: JayBee on November 06, 2019, 09:42:28 pm ---None of the buttons in my guns have 4 leads, they aren't arcade guns. My solution is sure not the best recommend one, but I did it to avoid touching the button boards and wires too much (I have no replacement if I damage them) or messing up with the button themselves. If I chain solder them and one point in the chain breaks or do wrong contact, it will be such a pain to troubleshoot. I also have grounds for other things than buttons, like solenoid and rumble. You can see pics of the inside of my guns to understand what I mean: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,161192.0.html They changed a lot since I took those pics, but you get the global idea. Yeah we could do a different pcb for each, but like you said, it would be expensive, and not sure if it's worth it ;) --- End quote --- Well i cant really see whats going on behind that hot-snot glue (which you can remove with rubbing alcohol, if need be ;)) But the microswitch (the one you call arcade) is super easy to solder several wires onto, as it has got a hole in the lead which you can hook the end of the wire around before soldering... heck even after if you heat the solder up before. BTW they are easily obtained, they go by the name 1c25, there are other types such as DB1, DB2 & DB3 but they have a different size, just if need be :D and the pcb with the red button(s)? should be pretty easy to wire up with a common ground wire aswell. Here's a couple of pics of my gun, which surely could use some tidying up. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1-2D4oAQEHhFUM4F9ROmfW6oOpiYpz_iA Though there are 2 wires connected on one pin of the trigger pcb, the rest are daisychained from there. Just as it was from the factory. Also should you need spare pcb's, provide me with a drawing with measurements and holesizes. and i'll design a new one for ya ;) I could even make one that extends rearward which can hold the arduino, mosfet and all the supporting components. You wouldnt happen to have a scanner and a ruler would you? Cause if you lay the gun, or even guns on their (in)side next to the ruler and send me the picture i'll design it to work for that gun. You'd ofcourse have to make sure that it is clean against the glass, so that there's no warping or out of focus places. and i'll make it so you have several through-holes where you can attach the ground wires :D EDIT: @JayBee, if you wanted to have me take a look at your code, make a user on github and make a private repository for it and share it with me :D EDIT2: I dont think you should have the camera board act as the ground for the solenoid as that could actually deprive the camera of power on activation (read. inrush current) what you'd ought to have is a beefy capacitor, maybe even a super capacitor to conserve space right next to the mosfet. |
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