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GUN4IR - The Ultimate 4 Points Lightgun System |
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JayBee:
--- Quote from: lightgungamer on October 26, 2019, 12:51:16 pm ---This looks great. Can’t wait to get it built and try it out. --- End quote --- Yeah, I should be adding schematics and pictures of everything tomorrow ;) |
Mysli0210:
Thanks, @JayBee @Samco @Hifi and all others involved, you're awesome! After retrofitting my old trusty sluh-00017 Konami Justifier with the JayBee 2 point software, i stumbled upon Hifi's software and actually started to make the same. but now i found this, so i guess its not needed anymore. Though i tried to implement the ir led offset from the screen, to make it 100% accurate. If this is needed i do not know, as im currently waiting for a package of 100 940nm leds from china. For those interested in the link: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32755919314.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.21694c4dLn44LN As for the gun itself, i didnt use the DFRobot IR positioning camera. But rather the IR camera from a wiimote, which i found out you can actually take out of the metal/plastic housing, so you dont even need to desolder it from the wiimote, just pry it out of the holder, and you have 8 solderpads on the rear. (I will provide pics for the next gun, i'm planning to build) The reason for taking that route is that i thought that the DFRobot camera was pretty pricey, and i actually had a wiimote at my disposal. The rest of the components was/is accessible free of charge at the local hackerspace in which i'm a member. (except for a 3.3v switchmode regulator that cost about 0.43$ incl. shipping) If anyone is interested in going that route i could whip up a pcb in kicad and the components as a kit for a modest price (most certainly not the reason for making this post!) I guess most of you have seen the old wiimote arduino guides? Well they do level conversion of the i2c signal which is overly complicated and completely unnecessary! I just powered the camera through the previously mentioned 3.3v regulator, pulled the SDA and SCL lines to that 3.3v through 2.7k resistors. The 5V atmega32u4 reads those 3.3v i2c signals just fine. Other than that its just a 20MHz crystal, 2 capacitors and a 33k (or lower) resistor to hold the reset pin on the camera HIGH. @JayBee, i know it seems like a good idea to only release the hex file, though if you'd be willing to i'd very much like to have the sketch provided, i will ofcourse contribute if i come up with something good :D |
Zebra:
--- Quote from: JayBee on October 20, 2019, 05:46:10 pm --- --- Quote from: Zebra on October 20, 2019, 04:31:44 pm ---It's more like saying "regardless if you plan to use the car once per month or every day, you should get one with brakes that work". And, "if you can't afford a car with working brakes, it's better to get nothing at all". I don't live in Japan or know the market there but I don't believe that it's not possible to buy a continuous duty solenoid. Especially as some of the solenoid brands I've seen are Japanese companies. Plus, there is a bunch of low cost arcade parts sellers that are based in Asia and ship internationally. And, there are plenty of ebay sellers who ship internationally. I order stuff from Japanese sellers all the time. I'm sure that if you kept an eye on ebay, you'll find a jolt gun from a seller who'll ship to Japan. Also, Namco, a Japanese company, sell new Time Crisis 4 gun shells and recoil solenoids for $120 in America. I'm sure they will have a parts distributor for their home market and that it wouldn't be significantly more expensive which means, if you know where to look, there will be used parts selling for less. --- End quote --- The jolt gun I found + sending fees was more than 100$ in total. Arcade parts here are actually more expensive and hard to come by than outside of Japan, thanks to the high demand of arcade centers that are everywhere here, that would pay any price to get their parts. Plus none of those gun part shop is open to the public, only people with an arcade company can order. They are protective of their market and tech. So getting official part would be very expensive for me AND extremely troublesome. But if you can show me some model of continius duty solenoid you think are good and than can fit in my guns, I will gladly take a look at it. --- End quote --- It sucks to be in Japan (for light gun fans).... You should be able to find one cheaper than that though. I can order a jolt gun right now off ebay for $35 delivered. For you, it's probably best to search for UK sellers. These guys will send me this PS1 recoil gun from the UK for less than $30 delivered: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Playstation-2-SATURN-SILVER-AVENGER-PRO-LIGHT-GUN-CONTROLLER-PS2/333345578110?hash=item4d9cf1dc7e:g:120AAOSwnD1dkejz There is usually a lot of jolt guns there. If you put an offer in for ones like this, I'm sure they'll take it: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pistola-Gun-per-Playstation-1-PS1-e-Sega-Saturn-con-pedale-Funzionante/303335038088?hash=item46a02d5c88:g:MKcAAOSw~KpcduNN In terms of solenoid models, just add the word "continuous" to an ebay search for pull solenoid, or check the specs for Duty cycle: Continuous. |
JayBee:
--- Quote from: Zebra on October 28, 2019, 07:56:59 pm --- --- Quote from: JayBee on October 20, 2019, 05:46:10 pm --- --- Quote from: Zebra on October 20, 2019, 04:31:44 pm ---It's more like saying "regardless if you plan to use the car once per month or every day, you should get one with brakes that work". And, "if you can't afford a car with working brakes, it's better to get nothing at all". I don't live in Japan or know the market there but I don't believe that it's not possible to buy a continuous duty solenoid. Especially as some of the solenoid brands I've seen are Japanese companies. Plus, there is a bunch of low cost arcade parts sellers that are based in Asia and ship internationally. And, there are plenty of ebay sellers who ship internationally. I order stuff from Japanese sellers all the time. I'm sure that if you kept an eye on ebay, you'll find a jolt gun from a seller who'll ship to Japan. Also, Namco, a Japanese company, sell new Time Crisis 4 gun shells and recoil solenoids for $120 in America. I'm sure they will have a parts distributor for their home market and that it wouldn't be significantly more expensive which means, if you know where to look, there will be used parts selling for less. --- End quote --- The jolt gun I found + sending fees was more than 100$ in total. Arcade parts here are actually more expensive and hard to come by than outside of Japan, thanks to the high demand of arcade centers that are everywhere here, that would pay any price to get their parts. Plus none of those gun part shop is open to the public, only people with an arcade company can order. They are protective of their market and tech. So getting official part would be very expensive for me AND extremely troublesome. But if you can show me some model of continius duty solenoid you think are good and than can fit in my guns, I will gladly take a look at it. --- End quote --- It sucks to be in Japan (for light gun fans).... You should be able to find one cheaper than that though. I can order a jolt gun right now off ebay for $35 delivered. For you, it's probably best to search for UK sellers. These guys will send me this PS1 recoil gun from the UK for less than $30 delivered: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Playstation-2-SATURN-SILVER-AVENGER-PRO-LIGHT-GUN-CONTROLLER-PS2/333345578110?hash=item4d9cf1dc7e:g:120AAOSwnD1dkejz There is usually a lot of jolt guns there. If you put an offer in for ones like this, I'm sure they'll take it: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pistola-Gun-per-Playstation-1-PS1-e-Sega-Saturn-con-pedale-Funzionante/303335038088?hash=item46a02d5c88:g:MKcAAOSw~KpcduNN In terms of solenoid models, just add the word "continuous" to an ebay search for pull solenoid, or check the specs for Duty cycle: Continuous. --- End quote --- I think I already told you, jolt gun delivery fees to Japan are >50$, and for the last time, I am not interested in buying those, I am very happy with my current guns, thanks. Can you show me any push-pull solenoid that is actually continuous duty? I don't believe that even exists, for a simple technical reason; solenoid ALWAYS heat when staying activated, no matter the power/type/size. |
JayBee:
--- Quote from: Mysli0210 on October 28, 2019, 06:36:31 pm ---Thanks, @JayBee @Samco @Hifi and all others involved, you're awesome! After retrofitting my old trusty sluh-00017 Konami Justifier with the JayBee 2 point software, i stumbled upon Hifi's software and actually started to make the same. but now i found this, so i guess its not needed anymore. Though i tried to implement the ir led offset from the screen, to make it 100% accurate. If this is needed i do not know, as im currently waiting for a package of 100 940nm leds from china. For those interested in the link: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32755919314.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.21694c4dLn44LN As for the gun itself, i didnt use the DFRobot IR positioning camera. But rather the IR camera from a wiimote, which i found out you can actually take out of the metal/plastic housing, so you dont even need to desolder it from the wiimote, just pry it out of the holder, and you have 8 solderpads on the rear. (I will provide pics for the next gun, i'm planning to build) The reason for taking that route is that i thought that the DFRobot camera was pretty pricey, and i actually had a wiimote at my disposal. The rest of the components was/is accessible free of charge at the local hackerspace in which i'm a member. (except for a 3.3v switchmode regulator that cost about 0.43$ incl. shipping) If anyone is interested in going that route i could whip up a pcb in kicad and the components as a kit for a modest price (most certainly not the reason for making this post!) I guess most of you have seen the old wiimote arduino guides? Well they do level conversion of the i2c signal which is overly complicated and completely unnecessary! I just powered the camera through the previously mentioned 3.3v regulator, pulled the SDA and SCL lines to that 3.3v through 2.7k resistors. The 5V atmega32u4 reads those 3.3v i2c signals just fine. Other than that its just a 20MHz crystal, 2 capacitors and a 33k (or lower) resistor to hold the reset pin on the camera HIGH. @JayBee, i know it seems like a good idea to only release the hex file, though if you'd be willing to i'd very much like to have the sketch provided, i will ofcourse contribute if i come up with something good :D --- End quote --- I didn't know you could use the wiimote IR cam, that's really cool! Yeah if you can show us more about that, I would gladly test it too. For the sketch, I should make it open source at some point in the future, but right now I have many reasons not to. I know it's not so convenient, and I'm sorry for that, if there was a way to make it better I would ;) |
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