GUN4IR - The Ultimate 4 Points Lightgun System

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Mysli0210:

--- Quote from: kill_one on January 15, 2020, 05:30:54 am ---
--- Quote from: Mysli0210 on January 14, 2020, 08:17:26 am ---I do believe you won't need anything specific, except for the wavelength, as mentioned earlier.
I run mine at the lowest voltage that is specified and works at 3 meters distance.
I bet I could go even lower ;D

--- End quote ---

i found these OSRAM SFH 4546 : High Power Infrared Emitters 5mm 940nm 130 mW/sr 1.5 V 100mA 40° deg 12ns
will they work?
and what resistance should i use for these?
always 56 ohms 1/4w?

Thanks a lot guys for support :)

--- End quote ---

The resistance needed is a result of the input voltage and the current being drawn.
so if you got 3 leds of 1.5v each, in series. you can supply the chain with 4.5V raw
(consult the spec sheet of the led to find the right voltage and current)
with many multimeters you can measure what voltage the led starts to conduct current.

Now what the resistor is doing is just drop the voltage by passing current.
You can use calculators like this one
http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz
However there's a difference between having a single led, having them in series and in parallel

janderclander14:

--- Quote from: JayBee on September 30, 2019, 01:25:12 pm ---The 4 IR LEDs system is finally here!

Instead of using the usual 2+ LEDs sensor bar, this system uses one LED in the middle of each side, which allows a far better aiming system overall.
I also added tons of features, and will keep it updated whenever needed.

--- End quote ---

Thanks a lot, JayBee. I was looking for something like this since I tested Hifi's code on a Wiimote.
May I ask you some questions?
- I understand the builds you refer are those you describe here: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,161192.0.html, which use a Namco Guncon 1. But, do you have any experience with a Namco Guncon 2? Do you think the whole build (including the solenoid) could fit in a Guncon 2 considering also the additional buttons it has? I'm particularly interested in using the button under the handle instead of a separate pedal.
- How do you feed the rumble motors? Do you use the VCC output of the Arduino? or the 5V line of the USB cable? Or do you use a similar driver as the solenoid and an external power supply?
- Regarding leds, I saw at different places that the optimal led for the Wiimote camera is the Vishay tsal6400. It's a 100mA 25 angle led with UV coating. Since the DF Robot camera seems to be very similar to that of the Wiimote, they may also be adequate.

Thanks![/list]

Mysli0210:

--- Quote from: kill_one on January 15, 2020, 05:48:59 am ---
--- Quote from: JayBee on January 15, 2020, 12:39:28 am ---Did you put the LEDs right in the border of the screen or on the outside border? For me it's extremely accurate, more than any solution I tested even real light guns on CRT ;)
But I had to get LEDs good enough to avoid any flickering (and so loss of position).

--- End quote ---

@JayBee on my cab i will have to put the leds on the sides of the crt monitor behind the bezel glass or in front of the sides of the glass? my cabinet is classic arcade cab with crt monitor 15khz hantarex polo slightly inclined, this inclination or
reflections of the glass they can create problems to precision of the gun?

thanks! :)

--- End quote ---
Well reflections could make some interference. but remember, IR light does not pass through all glasstypes equally.
my cab, also has a slight incline, which didnt seem to matter at all.

JayBee:

--- Quote from: Mysli0210 on January 15, 2020, 09:06:55 am ---Well I placed them as you see in the pictures I posted, they are around 10 mm off the border of the screen.
As for the leds I do think these are perfect for the purpose, as it tracks them fine, but as I said, the scale is just wrong
No you can't, but if you have it licensed you can prove ownership. If you do see the code.

I do have an idea as to how to compensate for the offset.
if you initialize serial, which will respond to numbers which could be percentage of screen width.
With this offset you could just inset the mouse coordinates.

I do know its not easy to program something like this. And still think your work is awesome, even though I can't hit a damned thing ;D

--- End quote ---
Are your TV and games 16/9 or 4/3?
If it's 16/9 TV with 4/3 content, you have to switch the screen ratio mode by briefly pressing the calibration button once.
If it's a 4/3 TV, press the button one more time.
It should magically correct the ratio, no need to manually calibrate or anything ;)
It's all written in the first post, but I understand that it's confusing.
For the screen mode you can actually change them automatically with mamehooker through serial commands, but I haven't finished the tutorial for that.

For the border even if the led isn't directly on border of the screen, it should still work fine, minus a slight offset on borders that isn't really a problem for old games. And only 10mm should definitely not matter.

Tell me if it fixes the issue, I will help you until we manage to make it work properly.

--- Quote from: janderclander14 on January 15, 2020, 01:35:08 pm ---
Thanks a lot, JayBee. I was looking for something like this since I tested Hifi's code on a Wiimote.
May I ask you some questions?
- I understand the builds you refer are those you describe here: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,161192.0.html, which use a Namco Guncon 1. But, do you have any experience with a Namco Guncon 2? Do you think the whole build (including the solenoid) could fit in a Guncon 2 considering also the additional buttons it has? I'm particularly interested in using the button under the handle instead of a separate pedal.
- How do you feed the rumble motors? Do you use the VCC output of the Arduino? or the 5V line of the USB cable? Or do you use a similar driver as the solenoid and an external power supply?
- Regarding leds, I saw at different places that the optimal led for the Wiimote camera is the Vishay tsal6400. It's a 100mA 25 angle led with UV coating. Since the DF Robot camera seems to be very similar to that of the Wiimote, they may also be adequate.

Thanks![/list]

--- End quote ---
To answer to your questions:
- one is the guncon 1, the other one is the saturn virtua gun. Of those two I actually prefer the saturn one, since it has far more space for a bigger stronger recoil, and for an Xbox controller rumble motor in the handle. But I am indeed also working on a guncon 2 right now, because like you said the handle button is so convenient. I managed to fit most of the main stuff inside, and all buttons work nicely (even the dpad), but right now I'm struggling to fit a mini solenoid in, which isn't easy to say the least :banghead:
- So far I only finished the Virtua Gun rumble, which uses an Xbox rumble motor, and it works amazingly well! It vibrates when reloading or when shooting out of the screen, but I also want to use it for many other feedbacks. I'm using a simple circuit (transistor, kickback diode, resistors...) to feed it with the VCC but control it with another pin. The VCC pin and the UCB VCC are virtually the same beside the VCC pin being limited in current. Reason why I use the Xbox rumble motor specifically since it doesn't take so much of it. Right now I'm still experimenting with it, in the end I want to be able to do different rumble effects. For the smaller shells like the GC1&2, I'm planning to use small wiimote rumble motors that I will stick inside the handle, but it's still too early to say how well it will work.
- yeah it will probably work too ;D The one I'm using is mainly because I'm standing a bit far from my TV and most less powerful leds were flickering so much on cam.

In general the best way to test leds is using dfrobot or Samco's test app to see if the cam is picking up the led smoothly from where you are standing.

janderclander14:

--- Quote from: JayBee on January 15, 2020, 08:14:26 pm ---But I am indeed also working on a guncon 2 right now, because like you said the handle button is so convenient. I managed to fit most of the main stuff inside, and all buttons work nicely (even the dpad), but right now I'm struggling to fit a mini solenoid in, which isn't easy to say the least :banghead:

--- End quote ---

Thanks for the details!
Regarding the mini solenoid, I have used this very tiny solenoid for another project: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32987722435.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.dc534c4doWaC1d
It has the convenient feature of working well with a 5V 2amp power supply, so it can be feed with a powered USB line.
For the controller board, I've used this cheap pre-made one: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33038728761.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.dc534c4doWaC1d
It completely decouples the power and control lines, as you can se here: https://bogza.ro/index.php/FR120N_Isolated_MOSFET_MOS_Tube_FET_Relay_Module

And, regarding the rumble motor, smaller alternatives to the xbox rumble motor could be the rumble modules of the xbox one controller triggers or of the ps3 move. On the contrary to the Wii motor, those have a mini unbalanced weigth and may produce a better effect. These can be found in ebay:

https://www.ebay.es/itm/Vibration-Rumble-Motor-M10-Replacement-For-Microsoft-Xbox-One-Controller/132845524127?hash=item1eee35d49f:g:IesAAOSwoDlb4EZj
https://www.ebay.es/itm/2-Units-Handle-Vibration-Rumble-Motor-Motors-Replacement-For-PS3-Move-Controller/122490167409?hash=item1c84fba071:g:d68AAOSwcB5ZFDxl

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