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Author Topic: Adding an inexpensive small motor tie into 12v as a novelty item Linear Motion  (Read 1425 times)

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mrclean

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So basically I'm looking to add the cheapest way possible a small motor that will constantly run on a tiny track / slide / ballscrew etc basically Linear motion with me hooking it up into my 12v power supply. Alternatively if more cost effective I can also use a USB for power / or adapter. I plan on having it about 18-23'' or so which will sit behind the marquee / screwed in.

Example :
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Go to a junkyard, find a power seat and pull out the guts.  Then you'll have  linear rails that work on 12v.  You'll need a dedicated power supply.  An Arduino with an appropriate shield can control the thing as you'll need some way to reverse the motion when it reaches the end. 

Here's the thing though..... how heavy is the thing you are trying to move?  The reason I ask is because most of these systems are quite loud and power hungry.  For moving lightweight stuff a small dc motor turning a belt on two wheels is a better option. 

mrclean

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Go to a junkyard, find a power seat and pull out the guts.  Then you'll have  linear rails that work on 12v.  You'll need a dedicated power supply.  An Arduino with an appropriate shield can control the thing as you'll need some way to reverse the motion when it reaches the end. 

Here's the thing though..... how heavy is the thing you are trying to move?  The reason I ask is because most of these systems are quite loud and power hungry.  For moving lightweight stuff a small dc motor turning a belt on two wheels is a better option.

It's not heavy very light, and if anyone has a suggestion for a specific dc motor / turning a a belt that the recommend let me know. I can tie it into my 12v or 5v off the power supply. Again I'd like to move something back and forth.
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keilmillerjr

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Cheap 12vdc pneumatic pump, solenoid, actuator? What is this for?

mrclean

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Cheap 12vdc pneumatic pump, solenoid, actuator? What is this for?

Unfortunately I can't say, I keep changing my mind as to how to achieve what I'm looking to do in a cost effective / reliable manor to tie into the power supplies 5v or 12v. As of now I'd like something that raises / lowers in a slow manor that would go up/down a few inches. It doesn't need to support that much weight, it can be anything on a retractable pole is what I'm thinking. I want it to constantly run up/down motion it's gotta be mountable as well.
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As of now I'd like something that raises / lowers in a slow manor that would go up/down a few inches. It doesn't need to support that much weight, it can be anything on a retractable pole is what I'm thinking. I want it to constantly run up/down motion it's gotta be mountable as well.
How about a stepper motor and a scotch yoke mechanism?



By changing the shape of the slot, you can add dwell-time at one end of the stroke. (or both ends)



If you need a shallower design to fit behind the marquee, try something like this:
- No spring needed
- Adjust the shape of the cam



If you need a shallow design that moves perfectly vertical, try a parallel X-link like this driven by a stepper motor + eccentric cam that pushes on the blue arm.



A 28BYJ-48 stepper motor and ULN2003 Drive Module Board is really inexpensive combo.
- Lots of YouTube tutorials on how to control them using an Arduino.
- Everything runs off 5v.

Single: https://www.amazon.com/You-May-Stepper-ULN2003-Arduino/dp/B07PYXFSS6/

5-pack: https://www.amazon.com/ELEGOO-28BYJ-48-ULN2003-Stepper-Arduino/dp/B01CP18J4A/

The 5mm round to 3mm double-flat shaft on the 28BYJ-48 is a bit unusual, but you can overcome that using a 5mm coupler or by 3d printing.

There are almost 500 28BYJ-48-related parts designs on Thingiverse, some of them you can customize using OpenSCAD.
- Customizable Wheel for 28BYJ-48 stepper motor - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:862438/
- Maze mouse wheel for 28BYJ-48 stepper motor - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:122305

LMK if you need help designing/modifying a 3d prinitable part using OpenSCAD.


Scott

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Things are not usually built on the fly with random thoughts given to design, At the very least it would be the black box theory of perimeters that would implement the best design, implementation, and ultimatly choice of parts as to not being under or overbuilt...IE: Size, weight, distance and adding a factor of 20% for safety margin would get you ballpark but stress factors should not be overlooked  (that is what ultimatly sank the Titanic).

jennifer

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But given what we do know...Light and behind Marquee, My first thoughts would be ultra quiet, pumps, and whirring steppers would create undo noise An animator clock motor would most likely do any job in that area of the cab without unnessary noise.
« Last Edit: August 07, 2019, 09:48:53 pm by jennifer »

mrclean

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Quote
How about a stepper motor and a scotch yoke mechanism?




A 28BYJ-48 stepper motor and ULN2003 Drive Module Board is really inexpensive combo.

Single: https://www.amazon.com/You-May-Stepper-ULN2003-Arduino/dp/B07PYXFSS6/

5-pack: https://www.amazon.com/ELEGOO-28BYJ-48-ULN2003-Stepper-Arduino/dp/B01CP18J4A/


LMK if you need help designing/modifying a 3d prinitable part using OpenSCAD.


Scott

That mech video looks literally perfect for what I want with the exception I want it vertical behind the cabinet to raise / lower slowly repeatedly. The prices for those motors and that tiny board is insanely cheap, but If I can use the 5v or the 12v off the switching power supply home run. I'm not familiar with printing any 3D parts, but yeah Ideally it would be a smaller low profile design (attahcing to back of cabinet hiding most of the mechanics with exception of item I'm raising / lowering) but essentially the same overall mechanics in that video. I don't know anything about Arduino ? I was thinking just wire this up and have it run ?!
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That mech video looks literally perfect for what I want with the exception I want it vertical behind the cabinet to raise / lower slowly repeatedly.
The mech will work vertically, too.   ::)

The prices for those motors and that tiny board is insanely cheap, but If I can use the 5v or the 12v off the switching power supply home run.
Everything electrical (motor, driver, and Arduino) will run off 5v and ground from the switching power supply.
- Wire everything as indicated in the video and notes below.

I'm not familiar with printing any 3D parts, but yeah Ideally it would be a smaller low profile design (attahcing to back of cabinet hiding most of the mechanics with exception of item I'm raising / lowering) but essentially the same overall mechanics in that video.
You can fab the mech yourself (lots of scotch yoke physical builds on YouTube to copy) or I can help with 3d design if you provide certain critical, specific details/measurements.

I don't know anything about Arduino ? I was thinking just wire this up and have it run ?!
It's a stepper motor, so you will need the Arduino to run through the steps. (4 phase wires ==> 4 steps/phases)

This tutorial has the basic intro info you need:

  5:30 - Electromagnetic coils in the motor
  8:27 - Driver board
  10:39 - Wire power to external source
  11:36 - Full Stepping wave forms (best speed and torque)
  14:31 - Full Stepping animation

The Arduino specific info is at https://channel9.msdn.com/Shows/themakershow/8.
- Video shows how to wire everything to an Arduino Uno.
-- See notes below for how to connect to a less expensive Pro Micro board.
- Change speed by changing the delay value. (13:30 - 14:50)

Here's an adaptation of his "S01_BruteForceWaveDrive" sketch changed to Full Stepping.
- This code does continuous, Full Step, CW rotation.
- The delay variable "delay(2);" (line 64) takes about 4 seconds per rotation.  NOTE: This is the max speed for a full up/down cycle with this motor and the scotch yoke mech.
-- If you change it to "delay(3);", it will take about 6 seconds per rotation.
Code: [Select]
int bluePin = 2;    //IN1 on the ULN2003 Board, BLUE end of the Blue/Yellow motor coil
int pinkPin = 3;    //IN2 on the ULN2003 Board, PINK end of the Pink/Orange motor coil
int yellowPin = 4;  //IN3 on the ULN2003 Board, YELLOW end of the Blue/Yellow motor coil
int orangePin = 5;  //IN4 on the ULN2003 Board, ORANGE end of the Pink/Orange motor coil

//Keeps track of the current step.
//We'll use a zero based index.
int currentStep = 0;

void setup() {
  // put your setup code here, to run once:
  Serial.begin(9600); 
 
  pinMode(bluePin, OUTPUT);
  pinMode(pinkPin, OUTPUT);
  pinMode(yellowPin, OUTPUT);
  pinMode(orangePin, OUTPUT);
 
  digitalWrite(bluePin, LOW);
  digitalWrite(pinkPin, LOW);
  digitalWrite(yellowPin, LOW);
  digitalWrite(orangePin, LOW);
}

void loop() {
 
  //Comment out the Serial prints to speed things up
  //Serial.print("Step: ");
  //Serial.println(currentStep);
 
  switch(currentStep){
    case 0:
      digitalWrite(bluePin, HIGH);
      digitalWrite(pinkPin, HIGH);
      digitalWrite(yellowPin, LOW);
      digitalWrite(orangePin, LOW);
      break;
    case 1:
      digitalWrite(bluePin, LOW);
      digitalWrite(pinkPin, HIGH);
      digitalWrite(yellowPin, HIGH);
      digitalWrite(orangePin, LOW);
      break;
    case 2:
      digitalWrite(bluePin, LOW);
      digitalWrite(pinkPin, LOW);
      digitalWrite(yellowPin, HIGH);
      digitalWrite(orangePin, HIGH);
      break;
    case 3:
      digitalWrite(bluePin, HIGH);
      digitalWrite(pinkPin, LOW);
      digitalWrite(yellowPin, LOW);
      digitalWrite(orangePin, HIGH);
      break;
  }
 
  currentStep = (++currentStep < 4) ? currentStep : 0;
 
  //2000 microseconds, or 2 milliseconds seems to be
  //about the shortest delay that is usable.  Anything
  //lower and the motor starts to freeze.
  //delayMicroseconds(2250);
  delay(2);
}
- You might also like the reversing motion of his S05_FullSteppingWithArrays sketch.
-- Alternates CW and CCW rotation through a set number of steps as demonstrated in the Arduino specific video above.

What wires go where on the Pro Micro:
  Two grounds (upper left) - Connect one to the switching power supply and the other to the driver board.
  2 - IN1 on driver board.
  3 - IN2 on driver board.
  4 - IN3 on driver board.
  5 - IN4 on driver board.
  VCC (or RAW) (upper right) - 5v (or 12v) from switching power supply to power the Arduino.
- Arduino may need 12v on regulated RAW pin if 5v on unregulated VCC pin doesn't work.
- See details under "How to Power the Pro Micro" here.
- No USB connection is needed after the board is programmed.   ;D




Scott

mrclean

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PM sent
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PL1

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Reply sent.


Scott

jennifer

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Scott...I like it (and the vid was fun)...But...I hope seriously you are just giving him direction in "cheap" and given the facts the op won't even tell us what it is to be moved...I would have to say supposing he wanted to move  3oz snow cone back and forth at a constant rate perpetually in attract mode that first drive gear would give out sooner than later (object in motion) would be my guess.

PL1

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Bad news:  Turns out the 28BYJ-48 stepper motors are really weak.   :embarassed:




Scott

jennifer

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There you go Nm is the key for sucess...upgrades wouldn't be that hard to find however given that is the basis of Cnc (2 motors working together  in X/Y axis) so obviously the idea is good...And most defintally would move something.

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I split the thread since it morphed from a general inquiry into a specific project.

The rest of the thread is now located here.


Scott

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just 2cents...

apparently there is a way to drive stepper motors to make them nearly silent. it has to do with ramping up the current at the beginning of the step (or some voodoo like that) it's something being implemented in 3d printers to cut down on the noise.