Mike A's end to procrastination

[Mike A]

Thanks Lew. This is a pretty basic project. I am going to try some things I haven't done before. It should be interesting.

[jennifer]

Oh me too, Oh yes Jennifer  being all nice to Lew too...

[Mike A]

Okay. So here is more progress.

Here is how I attach blocking to cabinet sides.

Equipment





I forgot to include paper towels.


Slather glue on the block and in the groove.



Use you finger to make sure the glue completely covers the block. Don't be afraid to get dirty.



Use a nail gun to clamp the block to the cabinet side. The nails are just to clamp the block in place until the glue dries. The glue is the strength of the joint.



Wipe off excess glue with lots of paper towels.



Don't forget to wipe down your tip before you put it away.



Dispose of the evidence. Have a drink.  Pfft. Looks like a Friday night.

[opt2not]

I think your record is skipping, Mike.

[Mike A]

The alcohol was not responsible. It looked good when I previewed it.

I think it is fixed now.

[ZTylerDurden717]

I enjoy watching you ---fudgesicle--- up! I say this with the best intentions.

[Mike A]

I only hope to entertain and possibly educate along the way... And get drunk a bunch.

[Mike A]

I won't make any progress tonight. I hitched a ride to the drive in with my buddy's family.

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[Vigo]

  We lost a few of those in MN over the last couple years. Becoming rare. They could use all the support you can give.

[ZTylerDurden717]

540” CRT or gtfo

[Mike A]

No joke. I love the drive in. I will definitely shed a tear if this one ever closes down.

We lost a few of those in MN over the last couple years. Becoming rare. They could use all the support you can give.

[bperkins01]

Nice work sir.

Like the tablesaw / router insert   

Following..

[Mike A]

Sorry. It will only be a 25" CRT.

540” CRT or gtfo

[Mike A]

Now I wonder where I got that idea.

Nice work sir.

Like the tablesaw / router insert   

Following..

[Titchgamer]

Never be afraid to clean ya tip after a job well done mate!

[Mike A]

I am loosely basing my build on some of the techniques in this thread.

https://www.classicarcadecabinets.com/assembly---konami-4p.html

I suck at painting and I should have created a template with the blocking positioning instead of measuring.

Using pocket hole screws will allow me to dry fit and disassemble to adjust, sand, paint, apply vinyl artwork and t molding with some forgiveness for my less than precise methods.

[Mike A]

Hey look at that. I drilled a fan hole.

5 inch drill bit


Drill halfway through. Flip the board over and finish the job. That reduces tear out.



It never hurts to clamp down your work.


The hole turned out very clean on both sides. It just needs a little light sanding.

[Nephasth]

I have that same hole-saw set (two actually, they double shipped). Bought it to drill access holes to mount the back lit Invaders on the Beast and they've come in handy in several pinches since. Cheap Chinese tools have their purposes...

[Arroyo]

Keep it coming Mikey.

[Mike A]

I know you like to watch.

[thomas_surles]

Whatever happened whe the bass cabinet?

[Mike A]

This one? I am pretty sure I posted pics somewhere. Since this pic I fixed the screen in front and touched up where I was too thin with the Duratex. My son leaves for college in August. That is when I will attach the corner hardware. He has it buried behind his electronic drum kit right now. It sounds bad ass.

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[Arroyo]

I know you like to watch.

Only watch?

[thomas_surles]

This one? I am pretty sure I posted pics somewhere. Since this pic I fixed the screen in front and touched up where I was too thin with the Duratex. My son leaves for college in August. That is when I will attach the corner hardware. He has it buried behind his electronic drum kit right now. It sounds bad ass.

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That came out nice. Yeah I remember talking about it but didn't remember what happened with it.

[Mike A]

Thanks. My son gets a lot of use out of it.

[Mike A]

You all know how much I hate getting off topic.

Time to cut the holes for the coin doors.

Measure and draw the locations.



Drill holes to allow jigsaw cutting.



I know very boring.

Who the hell cut this ugly ass hole?



A good straight edge can be your friend. A straight edge that clamps down can be your best friend.





Much better.

[J_K_M_A_N]

Did you use a trim bit? If so, did it have a top bearing or did you flip it over? It didn't look like you would have a good flat surface on that clamp down bar.

J_K_M_A_N

[Mike A]

The bearing rides right along the flat aluminum face.

[Arroyo]

Dude you are making me look bad, slow down.

[Mike A]

I cut 2 coin door holes in one night. How much slower can I go?

[Arroyo]

Hella Jelly, your gonna help me with that work shop when you get out here!  Nice work.

[Mike A]

Thanks. This is pretty basic stuff. Like I said in Laythe's post, I am working with Duplo.
I finished off the first coin door hole using a straight piece of hardwood instead of that snazzy straight edge. It works, but it is more clumsy. The clamps get in the way. I just found out that there is a 99 inch model of that straight edge clamp. I need to consult with pbj and sell some semen or something to buy that.

[Mike A]

I can't recommend enough taking a basic woodworking class.
I took one several years ago at a Woodcraft store. It was basic woodworking. We started by learning how to pick out a good rough cut board. We learned to use a jointer, table saw, and planer to create straight and flat boards. We learned how to edge glue and face glue the boards. We learned how to measure and cut tenons and use a mortiser.
We built a small end table. I knew how to do a bunch of that stuff already, but the old timer teaching the class taught me a bunch of little things that made a big difference in my woodworking.

[Arroyo]

I’ve eyed the local community college wood shop classes more than once.  Gotta put that on the ta do’s after the first build.  I like learning the hard way

[J_K_M_A_N]

The bearing rides right along the flat aluminum face.

I know that. I was just wondering if you somehow ride the router on that clamp or if you come in from the backside (like you are known to do....so I hear  ) with a bottom bearing trim bit. I have a clamp like that but I have not thought about using it for that so I was just curious how to went about it. Do you clamp it and lay it down on something face down?

Just trying to see if I need to learn a new technique.

J_K_M_A_N

[Mike A]

I use a top bearing bit. The router rides right on top of the clamp. It rides nice and flat on there. I wouldn't try it with a trim router. The base would be too small and it would be hard to keep it flat on top of the clamp. I use a full sized router.

If that doesn't work for you, you can just:
Measure the distance from your bit to the edge of your base.
Offset the clamp that distance from where you want to cut.

Or you could spend some additional cash

https://eemersontool.com/product/xcrp-c-series-universal-router-plate/

[Mike A]

If my explanation still sucks. Just let me know. I can post pics of the process. Sometimes things don't click until you see them.

[jdbailey1206]

Or you could spend some additional cash

[J_K_M_A_N]

That explains it. I do have both types of routers. I just never thought about riding the router on that clamp. Maybe the clamp I have is not flat. I will have to check it out. I usually clamp on the underside using a bottom bearing bit.

That piece in the link is very cool. That would come in handy for speaker slots if I did that again. Much easier than what I had set up.

J_K_M_A_N

[Ond]

Yay Mikey is building sumpthin    Enjoying the woodworking.

I'm sitting on a pile of cardboatd boxes and too much stuff trying to move house.  Gotta get motivation to get my new workshop sorted.  This is helping.