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| Howard_Casto:
:angry: :angry: Been going down everyone's suggestions.... so far either they don't carry the part or they charge ~ 10 bucks shipping. Maybe I should clue you guys in for some general advice. My 3d printer has been sitting un-used for a few months now. I thought it might be cool to make something arcade-related for the hobby. I was going through my parts when I ran across a sanwa joystick. It's really close to a ls-30 rotary joystick and the fact that the ball-top comes off and the e-clip is roughly the same size as the plastic sleeve on the shaft makes it a fairly easy hack. I was just going to design the top(s), a new restrictor plate with a larger hole and a shaft extension that mates to a commonly found, off the shelf encoder (to save with the number of inputs used). Now here's the thing. As you know, ikari warriors and most of the popular rotary games used a 12 position switch. The modern equivalent would be a 12 position rotary encoder. Well those aren't super common. What's common is a 20 position rotary encoder.... you can buy a 5 pack of those with knobs on amazon all day long. I'm also going to write some software for an Arduino Uno to run everything, so a 20 position encoder would also work... I would just ignore the extra clicks, but you would feel those clicks when you turn the knob. So I'm not sure where to go with this one as the end goal is to design a kit to allow people to inexpensively play the rotary games without much fuss. Should I stick to my guns with a 12 position encoder, forcing people to go on a snipe hunt and pay 10 bucks shipping, compromise somewhat and design it around a 20 position encoder or just give up and use an old-school 12 position switch, which would really up the cost as they are more pricey, have the same shipping problem, and take up too many inputs, which would require two arduinos? The other thing is that all three parts have a generic shaft on the end. If I could find a common size shaft in all three styles of parts, that would be ideal as the shaft extension design could work for all three... it'd probably be best to look at some of the common 20 positions and go from there. |
| PL1:
--- Quote from: Howard_Casto on June 29, 2019, 01:45:52 pm ---It's really close to a ls-30 rotary joystick and the fact that the ball-top comes off and the e-clip is roughly the same size as the plastic sleeve on the shaft makes it a fairly easy hack. I was just going to design the top(s) --- End quote --- Already designed and tested the handle, eject pins, and handle top. (not shown) :cheers: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,158266.0.html The OpenSCAD code is parametric so you can easily change variables like shaft diameter or the height above the CP. --- Quote from: Howard_Casto on June 29, 2019, 01:45:52 pm ---take up too many inputs, which would require two arduinos --- End quote --- Here's how the GP-Wiz40 and KADE handle rotary joystick inputs from an LS-30 or a Happ mechanical rotary joystick 12 position switch. The 13 pin connector has 12 directions + ground, but you only need three inputs + ground. Connect every third directional connection together and you're good-to-go -- 1(1), 2(2), 3(3), 4(1), 5(2), 6(3), 7(1), 8(2), 9(3), 10(1), 11(2), 12(3) + ground. Input 1->2, 2->3, or 3->1 = right turn. (output keystrokes only on transition) Input 3->2, 2->1, or 1->3 = left turn. The 3-input pattern instead of the 12-input works because the keystrokes that MAME looks for are relative, not absolute. In other words, rotary games only look for inputs to indicate if you're turning right/left, not "wire 7 is grounded so you're facing 180 degrees." Each click is a 30 degree (1/12th) rotation of the stick, but a 45 degree (1/8th) turn on the screen. Scott |
| BadMouth:
I did a 3D printed rotary setup for sanwa JLFs a while back. Works fine. Too busy with other stuff to implement it on my cab (don't have enough depth at the moment). http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,152784.msg1599616.html#msg1599616 The detents of the switch linked in that thread have a very good feel. Not has hard as original arcade sticks, but enough that there is no doubt whether you've moved one or two clicks. I had previously tried rotary optical encoders thinking it could be used for spinner and driving games, but it sucked without the detents. TLDNR: The closer the yoke is to the pivot point level of the joystick shaft, the less you can feel its presence. Let me know if you want the files. EDIT: bracket for Alps switch https://www.tinkercad.com/things/77OzLAC8Q1L coupler: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/fVXXvPPj2ju sleeve to hold coupler halves together: https://www.tinkercad.com/things/jzYmrPW284t possibly useful "tolerance test: : https://www.tinkercad.com/things/6sh9aQ2vu2M DISCLAIMER: IT HAS BEEN YEARS SINCE I MESSED WITH THIS AND YOUR PRINTER COULD HAVE DIFFERENT TOLERANCES. DOUBLE EDIT: OMG, blocky faces on those rounded parts! I've improved, but am still limited to Tinkercad. :lol |
| BadMouth:
Oh and MelvinBates made me some encoders: ;D http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,152761.msg1599300.html#msg1599300 |
| Howard_Casto:
Well dang guys nevermind. I knew about the joystick tops but I didn't realize somebody had already made all the other hardware. Maybe I should just work on the software end then...I'd like to see something for the very low end avrs that could handle a full ikari layout with maybe some shifted keys as well. |
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