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| Howard_Casto:
I'll work on that tonight then, thanks. I can do a taper, but it's not easy to figure out in 2d, probably better to use your method. Yeah this whole thing should be open-sourced... the whole point is to make these controls (and as a result the associated games) more accessible to the average Joe. I picked up a 12 ppr 12 detent and and 24 ppr 24 detent. You mentioned that an alternative to the 24 position optical sticks might be the 24 detent, so I thought I would give it a try. I'm also going to program a "skip mode" for the 24 detent that can be turned on and off via a serial command to only register a turn after two clicks, so assuming a person didn't mind the extra clicks they could use that and have full compatibility. I tried them out just in my hand.... the 12 feels more like the ikari sticks (softer clicks of course) and the 24 feels more like a radio knob with all the extra stops. Both have their pros and cons. It's entirely possible that I order the wrong stuff though..... rotary encoders aren't something I'm intimately familiar with. |
| PL1:
Good news: Found a way to automatically resize the logo in OpenScad using the scale command. Bad news: X-axis and Z-axis are fine, but the SNK logo Inkscape files I used for testing (original and stretched/resized) induce some sort of wierd Y-axis offset. :banghead: Hopefully, creating a properly sized, clean file from scratch will eliminate that. --- Quote from: Howard_Casto on July 08, 2019, 08:29:02 pm ---Yeah this whole thing should be open-sourced... the whole point is to make these controls (and as a result the associated games) more accessible to the average Joe. --- End quote --- Agreed, and anyone who wants to use your rotary encoder can chose which type of handle they want -- DE round or LS-30 octagon. :cheers: I still plan to post the DE handle files by themselves since they can also be used with the Ultimarc rotary conversion kit or original rotary sticks. --- Quote from: Howard_Casto on July 08, 2019, 08:29:02 pm ---I picked up a 12 ppr 12 detent and and 24 ppr 24 detent. --- End quote --- Good. 1 click = 1 pulse = 4 quadrature phases on both of those. ;D The approach described in reply #19 above will work for both of those. --- Quote from: Howard_Casto on July 08, 2019, 08:29:02 pm ---You mentioned that an alternative to the 24 position optical sticks might be the 24 detent, so I thought I would give it a try. I'm also going to program a "skip mode" for the 24 detent that can be turned on and off via a serial command to only register a turn after two clicks, so assuming a person didn't mind the extra clicks they could use that and have full compatibility. --- End quote --- Good news: If you can get the 24 detent version working with the optical rotary games using keystrokes, you probably don't need "skip mode" for MAME mechanical rotary games. Use the settings mentioned earlier, but change Analog setting "Positional Sensitivity" to 50 ==> two keystrokes = turn one step. It worked pretty well on the five or so games I tested. ;D Not-so-good news: Caliber 50 (optical rotary game) is really finnicky with a Happ mechanical rotary stick and a KADE miniArcade rotary encoder -- one click doesn't always equal turn one step. :dizzy: It might be the duration of the keystroke or several possible settings in MAME. :dunno If you can't find a combination that works reliably for keystrokes, the 24ppr encoder may only be worth pursuing if you use a mouse axis for rotation. :-\ Scott |
| Howard_Casto:
On my end anyway, I can also provide the source image and the photoshop document. I made it 300dpi and 2.5 inches wide so it should be over-sized for any cap size you'd be able to use. I think 300 dpi is a high enough resolution, but I'm not sure as some of the resin printers have a really high resolution. Then again if you can afford a resin printer you can probably just buy some OEM sticks. Well if caliber 50 is problematic I could just add a mode to switch them to mouse input instead of a skip mode.... there wouldn't be any real difficulty in adding that. On my end I forgot that the uno doesn't natively support showing up as a HID device. Custom firmware fixes that (I had already done it) and it's not terribly difficult to do, but I need to document the installation process so that other people can actually use this thing when it's done. Of course I'm using the stock Arduino IDE to actually write the code, it's just the firmware that changes, so if it works on the uno it'll work on any of the more powerful boards. People have cade for that though. My mom got her purse stolen and I'll probably be spending the next day or so setting up her new phone, but I'll get back to this shortly. Apparently the guys at AT&T didn't turn on icloud backup on her old phone, so she lost everything. :( She spent all weekend and had to take a day off yesterday to get everything cancelled and/or changed. Her replacement phone finally came in, so I guess I'm up. |
| PL1:
Turns out the guy I know who had a few of these handles sold them a while ago. :( We're back to either looking for someone else who can provide the measurements or reverse engineering the handle from images. --- Quote from: Howard_Casto on July 09, 2019, 02:56:55 pm ---On my end anyway, I can also provide the source image and the photoshop document. I made it 300dpi and 2.5 inches wide so it should be over-sized for any cap size you'd be able to use. --- End quote --- That 750x750px image exported to png should be perfect. ;D --- Quote from: Howard_Casto on July 09, 2019, 02:56:55 pm ---I think 300 dpi is a high enough resolution, but I'm not sure as some of the resin printers have a really high resolution. Then again if you can afford a resin printer you can probably just buy some OEM sticks. --- End quote --- No worries about printer resolution. As long as the STL model isn't excessively jaggy, the slicer software will output a smooth path. --- Quote from: Howard_Casto on July 09, 2019, 02:56:55 pm ---On my end I forgot that the uno doesn't natively support showing up as a HID device. Custom firmware fixes that (I had already done it) and it's not terribly difficult to do, but I need to document the installation process so that other people can actually use this thing when it's done. Of course I'm using the stock Arduino IDE to actually write the code, it's just the firmware that changes, so if it works on the uno it'll work on any of the more powerful boards. --- End quote --- Glad to hear that it will also work on the commonly available 32u4 boards. :applaud: --- Quote from: Howard_Casto on July 09, 2019, 02:56:55 pm ---People have cade for that though. --- End quote --- The KADE rotary firmwares only work with 12 position rotary switches, not quadrature encoders. --- Quote from: Howard_Casto on July 09, 2019, 02:56:55 pm ---My mom got her purse stolen and I'll probably be spending the next day or so setting up her new phone --- End quote --- I hope she is well. The rotary encoder/handle project can wait. Family first. :cheers: Scott |
| Howard_Casto:
Yeah she's fine.... they didn't steal it off of her or anything... she walked out of a Krispy Kreme without it and when she went back someone had already picked it up. The Police have a fairly good idea who it is so we just have to wait for them to do their thing and maybe she can eventually get the pics on her old phone back. Surprisingly I got her new phone fixed tonight.... no headaches setting it up and putting everything back on for once. Me and Apple products normally don't get along. It did take 3 frikkin hours though. :cry: We can get a decent guestimate from that one pic. I can check the relative dimensions between the two and give you a percentage difference...it's not going to be super accurate but it'll be in the ballpark. I know that the height is the same as the ikari sticks at least. They have a different mounting style... I don't think the tops even come off, but I think I prefer the ikari top's method better anyway. |
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