Before you go any further, you should read the "2.1 What type of build meets my needs?" section of the FAQ. (located in the wiki)
A few general observations:
1. Four single-player separate stations is
a lot more woodworking and finishing effort than one 4-player or two 2-player setups. (P1/P2/trackball/"command center" and P3/P4?)
2. 8 buttons per player is almost certainly overkill.
- Make a list of your "gotta' have" games. ("All of them" ==> guaranteed fail)
- How many buttons do those games actually need?
3. I agree that instead of 4 gamepad encoders, you'll probably want to go with keyboard encoders like an IPac4 or two IPac2's.
- One or two USBs instead of four.
- No issues with Windows changing which gamepad is assigned to which player.
4. You can reduce the number of optical (mouse) encoders to three --
possibly two if you can put two spinners on the Z-axis, but you
might run into the Windows Scroll Wheel (Z-axis) 4x problem.
- One for trackball. (X-axis and Y-axis)
- One for two spinners. (X-axis and Y-axis)
- One for the other two spinners. (X-axis and Y-axis)
- Enable "multimouse" to keep the devices separate.
- If you use two IPac2's, you can use the trackball pins for X-axis and Y-axis on each IPac.
- If you'd like to save a few bucks on optical encoders, consider using StefanBurger's
Illuminated Spinner firmware on an Arduino Pro Micro.
5. You can save a lot of money using rotary encoders like
this one instead of a TT2 or SpinTrak.
- Not as nice or high quality, but they work well.
- Harder to mount in a wood panel unless you can 3d print a mount.
6. LED buttons
- For less brightness, lower current draw, and longer life, run 12v LEDs off 5v.
- I usually use them for admin buttons, but not for player buttons. YMMV.
7. Mouse buttons
- Once you finish setting up the system, do you really need them?
- Lots of guys keep a cordless keyboard handy for just such an emergency.
Scott