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hantarex polo 28 blows fuse
perjmolsen:
Hi
I have now removed the solder at the middle leg at the transformer - now there is NO connectivity between the two pads :cheers:
(only connectivity if i touch the pin)
So thinking to put in a new zener, test for connectivity between the pads.. then solder the pin in again, and test if that has done something good.. or i might have blown something up by bridging the two pads.
princess prin prin:
You get "connectivity" because of the jumper. The jumper grounds one of the transformer's legs and the legs are connected together by the windings so yo'll always have "connectivity" across the half ripped pad (which is ground) and any of those three transformer's legs. If the zener is good and you can solder it reliably to that half pad, move on.
perjmolsen:
Thanks! :)
I have tested the zener diode - it where fine.
Put it in and checked my soldering :laugh:
Even tried a new 18V zener. - but still the same... :badmood:
perjmolsen:
Hi
I refuse to give up ;D
I am still trying to get this chassis to work, it is NOT an option to give up. 8)
The status is that I have tested all, and nearly replaced ALL components in the power supply part on this chassis, but when I put a 40W bulb on L103 the volt is pulsing. :dizzy:
I have also swapped out the transformer with one that i know its good.
If I disconnect the 40W bulb my 145V is present and stable :applaud:
Also all the other volts are spot on.
TP10 = 11.7V
TP8 = 25V
TP9=16V
TP31=25V
But when I connect the 40W bulb the volts are pulsing, and I can hear a faint ticking sound, and then the two diodes D117 and D116 gets hot.
A small video with the 40W bulb connected:
What controls the feedback?