Trying to save this Franken-Pac (should have killed it with fire)

Arcade Collecting > Restorations & repair

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Keroppi:

--- Quote from: pbj on April 15, 2019, 02:29:59 pm ---You'll regret it. :lol

--- End quote ---

I *already* regret it! :cheers:

Keroppi:
I was told on another forum:

--- Quote from: jlpmauldin;3979147 ---Don't worry about the sanding the top smooth. Its supposed to be rough particle board. Just paint it yellow and forget about it. You'll hardly ever look at it again.
--- End quote ---

Was pac not completely smooth from the factory?

Parts came in, and I got bolts today. I proceeded to mount my wheels and leg leveler plates, and then realized standard leg levelers are too short to extend past the casters.

After looking at a bazillion pics of the bottom of both original and restored pac cabs today, I decided that the front corners must've been a little rounded, so I did so with the sander.

I don't want to cut the t-molding slots until I am done with the body work. Since it's finally on wheels, I finally got the cab upright again!

After the torture this cab has been through, I never want it to touch the ground again.
Although Midway control panels always seemed a little low to me, I am not sure I am a fan of the "highwater" look caused by the casters.
I need to decide whether to buy longer leg levelers or ditch the wheels.
It just sucks that unlike the Ms, there's no handles and low rear casters, which makes moving Pac a ---smurfette--- without them.
Now that it's upright, I can do my nail test on the other side:

It's backward to the other side: most of the damage is on the front edge, with very little on the back edge.
Now that the cab is stable and I found my discharge tool, I was able remove the monitor (and the rest of the odds and ends):

I noticed a couple things that I hadn't before.
1) The upper t-molding slot was full of white powder (sadly I'd knocked most out before this pic):

...which leaves me believing that the culprit who decided this game was food was the powerpost beetle and...
2) I think lots of restored games are better than new.
Use this beautifully routed factory cut for example:

Using the scrap strip I kept, I tested both rubbing alcohol and mean green as cleaning agents. Both of them wanted to remove more paint than grime:

So the other cleaners I hear recommendations for are Simple Green and SuperClean.
SuperClean I have to order, but I'll pick up a bottle of Simple Green tomorrow. Anyone have any other surface-preserving recommendations?
Well, that's it for tonight, off to bed.

pbj:
Novus 2 and a rag. Magic eraser and lighter fluid.

Keroppi:

--- Quote from: pbj on April 17, 2019, 10:07:57 am ---Novus 2 and a rag. Magic eraser and lighter fluid.

--- End quote ---

I guess I had failed to mention I had also (first, actually) tried ME+Naphtha (essentially lighter fluid)...as that's how I always did my pins.I guess that's also why I *didn't* try the Novus, as on pins it always did a great detail clean/polish after the brunt of the crud was gone, but never did well cleaning all the grime itself.I s'pose I'll give it a shot tonight as well. Really of all the cabs I have had, this has been the most stubborn to try to clean. I don't know why.

pbj:
Scrubbing bubbles also works pretty well.

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