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| SNES/Genesis Konami Justifier: how to determine photo diode/phototransistor? |
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| opt2not:
I'll try that next. Unfortunately I'll have to remove the metal shielding first, but that's not a big deal with a good de-soldering iron. |
| pbj:
Dude... remove that shielding. 100% guaranteed that part is marked underneath it. :bat |
| AMG KC:
You dont want to turn the brightness up, you want that down. Its the contrast you want to turn up, and more so the blue colour, and this is what the gun will see. I use a few different light guns on CRT projectors, and through a lot of testing, the biggest problems in order: • not enough blue drive • brightness too high ( washes out the screen ) • green too low • red too bright Using a CRT projector made it very easy to work out what the gun needs to see and what it does not. • covering red lens did nothing • covering green lens made the guns less likely to work at distance • covering blue lens the guns did not function AT ALL no matter how close to the screen you got. Using a direct view set you may need to access service menus to raise blue drive, but usually just raising contrast and lowering brightness is fine. I see it so often people say "turn up the brightness"... Why??? The brightness controls black level or cutoff, which has very little to do with the gun, it sees a white or blue flash, which is a full 100ire, and contrast is the setting that affects that. |
| opt2not:
--- Quote from: AMG KC on April 25, 2019, 03:41:40 am ---You dont want to turn the brightness up, you want that down. Its the contrast you want to turn up, and more so the blue colour, and this is what the gun will see. --- End quote --- Right. Regardless, the gun isn't working with whatever the tv is set to. Thanks for the bump, though it doesn't really help answer question on how to determine the photo diode/sensor. Do you know of a way to find this out? --- Quote from: pbj on March 10, 2019, 06:15:41 pm ---Dude... remove that shielding. 100% guaranteed that part is marked underneath it. :bat --- End quote --- I removed the shielding. Didn't see any markings showing what the part is. I didn't snap any photos, but I found an album of someone else's and as you can see it is unmarked: https://imgur.com/a/KEAA0 Doing some googling, I found 3 parts that "look" like they could work as replacements, but I'm not sure by the specs which is best since I don't know how to determine the operational specs of the original one. This one looks the closest, at a 2.7-5.5 VDC , 2 mA draw. https://www.parallax.com/product/604-00084 Here are a couple more: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/ams/TSL235R-LF/TSL235-R-LF-ND/3095040 https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/ams/TSL237S-LF/TSL237-S-LF-ND/3095041 https://www.parallax.com/product/604-00084 |
| pbj:
Buy 1 of each, start dropping them in, see what happens. |
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