Arcade Collecting > Restorations & repair
Restoring Atari Centipede cabinet
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blackace936:

--- Quote from: opt2not on December 31, 2018, 09:08:15 pm ---Oh wow, didn’t know repro neck boards were available for the GO7’s. I love those monitors. They’re pretty easy to repair. People say the K7000’s are easier, but out of the half dozen GO7’s I’ve repaired they seem to be consistent in how they fail.

I agree with Yots, those pure blacks are vital for Centi. Keep it original if you have the energy to do so!  :cheers:

--- End quote ---
Where would you say they fail consistently? Repairing the board hasn't had any effect so I'm going to pull the monitor next. My dad used to do monitor repairs back in the 80's or 90's so he's going to give me a hand with more advanced trouble shooting this weekend.
opt2not:

--- Quote from: blackace936 on January 01, 2019, 04:48:50 pm ---
--- Quote from: opt2not on December 31, 2018, 09:08:15 pm ---Oh wow, didn’t know repro neck boards were available for the GO7’s. I love those monitors. They’re pretty easy to repair. People say the K7000’s are easier, but out of the half dozen GO7’s I’ve repaired they seem to be consistent in how they fail.

I agree with Yots, those pure blacks are vital for Centi. Keep it original if you have the energy to do so!  :cheers:

--- End quote ---
Where would you say they fail consistently? Repairing the board hasn't had any effect so I'm going to pull the monitor next. My dad used to do monitor repairs back in the 80's or 90's so he's going to give me a hand with more advanced trouble shooting this weekend.

--- End quote ---
For the most part, on monitors that don’t power-up, reflowing headers, replacing caps, or the fly-back (in that order) has been a regular solution, in my experience.
There are a couple resistors (R516, R517) that are becoming problem components as well because of age, those  mainly affect brightness i believe.
But for a dead monitor the first thing I’d check for is bad solder joints on headers for both the chassis and neck.
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