Pac-Man Legion

[Laythe]

Hah, that's neat!

Reminds me of pinning the balsa parts directly onto the plans to build model airplanes.   

[Ond]

Hah, that's neat!

Reminds me of pinning the balsa parts directly onto the plans to build model airplanes.   

I love using the 1:1 plans, apart from setting up cutting templates it lets me keep a quick visual check on parts I've cut.  BTW I didn’t try to bend the aluminium strip to the shape but rather I let the metal stay under tension to produce it's own smooth curve.  A bit like a Bezier spline curve if you know what that is.

Here's the way the cutting panned out using this technique.  First I finished the rough cuts (leaving a quarter inch or so around the outline) with my jigsaw:

Next I flush trimed along my template using a half inch top bearing flush trim bit.  I bought this bit brand new for this project - cuts nice and sharp!

I flipped the template over to cut the other side.  I'd never get a smooth square cut like this using my jigsaw, especially this PHAT MDF:

Here's the finished piece so far.  I've also cut its twin out.  The photo makes it look wider at the top than it really is.

[Ond]

Moving along .... Today I cut one of the control panel supports (that's what I'm calling it).  Again using the shaped aluminum formed cutting templates:

[Ond]

I snuck in a few more cuts before it got too hot here today.  Now that's a chunky control panel!

[Arroyo]

How you manage to juggle 3 projects at once, especially at this level of precision is mind boggling.

[Laythe]

This is fun to watch.   

[Alejo I]

OND putting out actual metalwork for templates and I can't even get to finish this cardboard model I've had in mind for over a year...

[Ond]

How you manage to juggle 3 projects at once, especially at this level of precision is mind boggling.

It might seem like a lot going on but the variety of things keeps me in the workshop, more so than if I just had the one project.  I walk in there and pick out the thing that interests me there and then.  By the end of the week I try to realize progress across all my projects.

This is fun to watch.   

For my part it's also fun to work on straight up woodwork when I can.  Solving various design challenges is what I love about the hobby.  I suspect you do too.

OND putting out actual metalwork for templates and I can't even get to finish this cardboard model I've had in mind for over a year...

You can do it mate!  Get that cardboard model built.  Just rough it in with masking tape and an Exacto knife.  I LOVE cardboard mock-ups like Neph loves a good nuded up CRT.  They are just the best way to get a feel for ergonomics, playability etc. 

I got an early start this morning.  There was a strange, hazy, orange glow to everything as I worked outside.  Like the weather was letting me know some roasting hot torture was on the way.  I got to a certain point, and I'm sorry but it was just too damn hot.  I thought maybe I could make some progress on RoToron too, but the idea of climbing into my hazmat suit (for fibre glass work) for a steaming sweat bath just didn't push my buttons.  More than the usual pics to make up it for it. 

Attaching the cutting template to form the second CP panel, the pencilled x's are to remind me NOT to route around those curved corners:

pre-drilling the holes in the CP before flush trim cutting with my router.  Here's a saftey tip:  Don't start the router and then lower the bit it into the button hole to cut. Position the router bit in the hole AND THEN start the router.  You risk seriously horrible things happening if you drop a spinning router bit into a tight space in timber.  If it so much as kisses any surface before you have it stable....well the results are scary and nasty.  There will be no post of OND (several years ago) throwing his router across his back yard in a blind screaming rage after doing just that... 

Here I'm marking out the exact height the control panel supports need to be to ensure the CP sits high enough to clear knees etc.

The control panels sit nice and square on the supports.  The depth dimensions for the cabinet (and thus the end panel sizing) will be worked out as I construct the cabinet.

After sticking down the 1:1 plan onto the top panel cutting template I rounded off the corners and then cut a rough cut-out with my jigsaw in the usual way.  I use a spray adhesive to coat the template.  After positioning the plan along one edge I smooth it onto the adhesive surface with my cork sanding block.  This works really well.

That's it.  The heat won and I headed for the fridge and a frosty pint of beer. Soon I'll be rounding all those edges as per the concept render. Tomorrow is another day.   

[javeryh]

Really nice Ond.  I am jealous that you are complaining of the heat - I woke up to about 5" of snow this morning.  Ugh.

[Ond]

Really nice Ond.  I am jealous that you are complaining of the heat - I woke up to about 5" of snow this morning.  Ugh.

Thanks, javeryh, it's hard to get much done in either extreme isn't it?

I try and progress things in the cooler mornings each day.  The main cutting and routing is nearly done. 

Here's the template for the top panel attached to the MDF sheet for routing.

These nails positioned on the corners of the line drawing are to make reference holes in the panel which I'll use later as a guide for rebating a cut-out into the panel for the glass.

The growing pile of parts...now added to by the top panel.  This will also be rebated on its underside to fit CRT monitor and monitor bezel.  You can just see the monitor bezel positioned underneath the panel for reference.

Soon the rounding over of edges...soon.

[Arroyo]

Since you seem to be a router hound (me too), what are you using to make your rounded edges?  I had to use a round over bit on some pieces and use it as a template, but curious to know what your solution is?

[Ond]

Since you seem to be a router hound (me too), what are you using to make your rounded edges?  I had to use a round over bit on some pieces and use it as a template, but curious to know what your solution is?

I'm going to use a 5/8” round over bit with bearing (1/2” shank).  I'll set the penetration depth to use the full radius of the bit and then flush trim along all applicable edges (both sides) to achieve the curves as per the render concept.  Fairly straightforward really.  I like to use bits with ½” shanks when possible.  They are just stronger than ¼” and give me more confidence for heavy work like this.

[Ond]

Rounded off panels,  I’ll hold off rounding the main side panels until I’ve used them for curved forms.  More on that in the next post.

Cutting template for CP cut-out.

Steel plate CP insert for controls.

Quick test fit before committing to sealing it in.

Plate sealed in fiberglass after joystick bolts fitted.

Cleaned up CP after sanding/ bondo fill and initial primer coat.  Cut back hard to get everything nice and flush.

Beauty primer coats begin....  I'll cut an access hole for wiring through the rear edge and into the control cut-out.

[J_K_M_A_N]

As always, that looks amazing. If you had a live web cam, I would probably watch that for hours. Incredible work!

J_K_M_A_N

[wp34]

As always, that looks amazing. If you had a live web cam, I would probably watch that for hours. Incredible work!

J_K_M_A_N

Ditto.  I'm not a big video guy but if you had a Youtube channel I would subscribe. 

Excellent work.   

[Jimbo]

Niiiice work...

Is that joystick hole big enough for the joystick to move?

[javeryh]

Wow Ond... looks like it was made by a machine.  So smooth...   

I'm also wondering if the joystick hole is wide enough but I'm sure you've thought of it.  So you are making 2 of these I assume?

[Ond]

As always, that looks amazing. If you had a live web cam, I would probably watch that for hours. Incredible work!

J_K_M_A_N

Ditto.  I'm not a big video guy but if you had a Youtube channel I would subscribe. 

Excellent work.   

Thanks fellas, I could do some videos of stuff that might be useful.  I'll see what I can do.

Niiiice work...

Is that joystick hole big enough for the joystick to move?

Wow Ond... looks like it was made by a machine.  So smooth...   

I'm also wondering if the joystick hole is wide enough but I'm sure you've thought of it.  So you are making 2 of these I assume?

Thanks guys, I'm getting closer to the look I visualised for this cabinet, as always it’s all in the surface preparation before paint goes on.  The joystick hole is a close fit, probably too close once all the surface finish is done.  The test fit of the joystick was fine, with the stick clearing the hole when pushed in any direction but I'll enlarge it before paint goes on. I have to buy an additional hole cutter for metal.  The small hole did allow me to perfectly align the stick for bolt placement, so it's all good.  I am making two CPs, the other one is still at the pre-fiberglass stage (with steel plate fitted).

I've been teaching myself all there is to know about applying 3M Vinyl wrap.  That stuff is designed to adhere to a highly polished automotive paint finish so it should work really well on these panels.
  I've also come up with what I think is a cool (pun not intended) way to ventilate this cabinet. Airflow will be fan forced from the base plate of the cabinet using the biggest PC fan I can find, flow up around the base of the CRT tube and out underneath each CP.  The vents under each CP will double as speaker grills of a sort.  I'll concept that up in a render so you can all see what I'm on about.

 

[jennifer]

Great choice with the wrap, That will bring this up to the modern conceptual I would imagine you are going for...Heat rises, good use of physics, Jenn dont need to be spoon fed image cad to see awesome.

[javeryh]

Any updates Ond?  Or is it the middle of winter and impossible to work?

[Ond]

Any updates Ond?  Or is it the middle of winter and impossible to work?

No updates javeryh.  I've been feeling a bit glum lately.  A few domestic issues and lousy weather.  I don't normally get much done on woodworking projects over Winter, it's difficult to work outside when it rains all the time and I have to rug up in ten layers just to stay warm.  But I've been thinking....I'd like to come out the other side of Winter with some progress on my projects.  Progress with anything is more about state of mind than the weather.

[Arroyo]

I’m still going through my post Zapcon OND withdrawals.  Miss you bud, always looking forward to any updates, keeps us all inspired.

[Laythe]

Don't feel bad about it, Ond.

Hang in there; it'll still be there when you are ready, and so will we.

[jennifer]

Adversity I find is a driving force, The worse the weather is the harder I work, People hate on Jenn? Awesome, cause then I binge up a storm, Don't like to see anyone in a slump however cause life is much to short...That/Those machines you are building there Mr Ond are going to live on long after you are gone, a true testimony to the builder...Hope you can find some solice in that.

[javeryh]

Any updates Ond?  Or is it the middle of winter and impossible to work?

No updates javeryh.  I've been feeling a bit glum lately.  A few domestic issues and lousy weather.  I don't normally get much done on woodworking projects over Winter, it's difficult to work outside when it rains all the time and I have to rug up in ten layers just to stay warm.  But I've been thinking....I'd like to come out the other side of Winter with some progress on my projects.  Progress with anything is more about state of mind than the weather.

I hear you.  Even though it is technically summer where I am (NJ) it feels like it has been raining for a month.  Hard to get anything done and it can really affect your mood.  Hang in there.   

[Ond]

Hey look this happening...  Gotta say, my new workshop has me all keen again. 

Thanks for the encouragement folks.  I know it was 3 months ago when you posted comments, but reading it again is a good morale boost. Jenn, I like your attitude to getting things done and the kind words about my creations outlasting me. I didn't even consider that fact.  I better make em to last eh?  I have something you may be interested in too.  It's time for me to get on with the curved panels on this cabinet.  So the curved end panels won't support anything but they do need to measure up to my design render.  They have a nice curve and when finished, the appearance of real timber.  Let's see if I can meet the requirement.  Here we go.

I'm going to use thin MDF as a base for these.  Like I said the panels are not supporting anything, just attaching to each end of the cabinet around the control panels.

Cut the right size panel.  The rain today didn't stop me!  Hooked up my saw table with dust extraction and gave weather the middle finger.

Apply steam to the panel and pin it to the side panel curves.  This is just to encourage the MDF to curve the way I want it. 

Once the MDF is nicely dry again I've attached some carpet edge strip to each end and then tensioned them together with string.  The rigid edging ensures an even curve when the assembly is under tension.

To set the curve permanently and to make the panel much stronger/rigid I'm going to cover the inside face of it in fiberglass.  Bah fiberglass, I hate working with it but I LOVE the results once the work is done.

Here it is with wet fiberglass/resin coat.  I did the actual work outside once the rain eased off.  It’s way too messy to do inside.

I think tomorrow I'll go hunt down some nice real wood veneer for this project (these panels).  Once the fiberglass sets I can trim up the panel and then glue on the veneer.

Can anyone please tell me the dimensions of a two player coin panel, in particular the depth?  That is, for a coin plate with two mechs.  My research on various vendor sites has not been successful.  In more simple terms what clearance do I need to allow for the assembly behind a panel the coin plate is fitted to?

[Arroyo]

[Laythe]

Nice!  Love that approach to curved panels.  This thing is going to be awesome.

Great to see the new shop getting used, and to have you back as a frequent contributor.   

[Ond]

@ Arroyo -  some of em I get from you.  I've figured out a way to allow good airflow through and out of the cab as well as providing speaker cutouts.  Under each CP I'm going have a cutout which has a series of fins across each.  Thanks for the idea for that shape. 

@ Laythe - thanks, I'm hopping between projects, there will be more on the others as well. 


Artwork and final geometry for this cabinet is just about where I want it.  As I build it I modify or fine tune various things.  Here's a new take on the artwork.  More 2D.  Original font color.  Better I think.

I worked a bit more on one of the curved panels today. 

Cut out and flush trim the supporting ribs for the curve from marine ply.

Fasten all the ribs together.  Drills holes and check they all match.

This is how they will sit on the inside of each side panel.

Attach the panel to the ribs.

Check for shape and fit against the panel.

Apply contact glue to panel and wood veneer.

Here's the panel after the veneer is stuck down, trimmed and lightly sanded.  Note this is not the final color.  The veneer will be stained with rosewood stain to match the current design render.

[Nephasth]

The veneer will be stained with rosewood stain to match the current design render.

Nice nod to the original Midway cocktail design.

[Ond]

The veneer will be stained with rosewood stain to match the current design render.

Nice nod to the original Midway cocktail design.

Yeah they did have that color timber style panels.  I've updated the first post concept render, but I'll post it here too, saves people flipping back to page 1.  I've found a coin panel with dimensions and available here in Australia. Once I had the dimensions I could draw it up and position it in the 3D Model to make sure the mechs clear the CRT.  The CRT is a tight fit in this cab but this coin plate fits no problem.  I'm happy with the overall colors and art now.  More soon.

[opt2not]

Damn sexy concept art rendering you got there, Ond.   

[Mike A]

 

[Arroyo]

Thanks for the idea for that shape. 

I’m pretty sure I got my idea after seeing your rib structure for the head of Rotoron .  That’s what I love about this place is the inspiration and reminder of good ideas.

Question:  won’t that roughly 1/4” curves side (even with fiberglass reinforcement) be a bit thin to tackle the jerky movements and leverage of someone playing on the joysticks?  I assume there’s some additional support for the control panel on the inside?

[jennifer]

The beauty of this is the clean modern lines, and apparent lack of traditional hardware (IE: carriage bolt heads) And now the curve becomes a factor in C/p strength...I am sure The insanity that is OND has a plan fitting of said problem, But at this point Jenn would have to say steel...heavy Gage rails running from C/p to C/p also doubling as a monitor cradle, and extending to the bottom for lateral stress...Love the build so exciting!

[Ond]

Damn sexy concept art rendering you got there, Ond.   

Thanks opt2not, I thought the geometry was good but the art/color scheme needed some work. Finding a suitable coin plate helped me evolve it a bit further.   

  

Thanks for the idea for that shape. 

I’m pretty sure I got my idea after seeing your rib structure for the head of Rotoron .  That’s what I love about this place is the inspiration and reminder of good ideas.

Question:  won’t that roughly 1/4” curves side (even with fiberglass reinforcement) be a bit thin to tackle the jerky movements and leverage of someone playing on the joysticks?  I assume there’s some additional support for the control panel on the inside?

Indeed, my thoughts about the forum exactly.  It's a bit of an illusion looking at the render but the CPs don't actually connect to, or rest on the curved sides at all. They are supported by the fat MDF cross pieces each of which is bolted to the MDF 'front' and 'back' of the cab.  The main supporting strength of these cross pieces is near where the CP appears to join to the curved sides.  See this pic from earlier in the thread to see what I mean.  I'll cut the leading edges of each CP to fit snug against the curved sides as well.

Each CP will attach to these cross pieces using bolts from underneath which go into threaded inserts in each CP. I'm going to use lots of threaded inserts on this cab.  The thick MDF panels are well suited to them.

The beauty of this is the clean modern lines, and apparent lack of traditional hardware (IE: carriage bolt heads) And now the curve becomes a factor in C/p strength...I am sure The insanity that is OND has a plan fitting of said problem, But at this point Jenn would have to say steel...heavy Gage rails running from C/p to C/p also doubling as a monitor cradle, and extending to the bottom for lateral stress...Love the build so exciting!

Aww thanks Jenn.  Hey, you know what, the steel rails thing is a great idea.  I could rebate those supporting braces in the pic above and drop some steel rails in there for added strength.  They are pretty beefy though.  The Monitor which is fitted with a timber collar will sit directly in rebates at the top of the thick front/back panels.  All the weight of the CRT is on these panels. Much stronger support than the plastic case it came from. 

[Arroyo]

See this pic from earlier in the thread to see what I mean.  I'll cut the leading edges of each CP to fit snug against the curved sides as well.

Makes total sense, good solution.

[wp34]

That is tight!  Looking forward to seeing what that looks like completed.

[Ond]

@ wp34 - it's the most elegant solution to the problem I could think of.  Those fins will probably be cut from black acrylic .

Filling the grain on the curved panel.  If I was going for a more wood textured look I wouldn't bother with this step. In this case I'm going for a furniture grade, polished piano gloss finish.

After sanding back the filler to wood again, the grain is filled and surface ready for stain.

A little stain goes a long way.  This is the closest I could find in terms of color.

Applying the stain with a padded cloth applicator.  The applicator ensues an even finish that's not too dark.

Here it is after drying.  Its a bit dull and flat now, but several coats of clear varnish and some polishing will bring out all the deep color and grain.

[rave0035]

Can you explain what you did with the filler?  I've never seen that tactic before...

Mike