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| DaOld Man:
Im probably jumping ahead here, and I hope you will forgive me, but how do you plan to get that polished look on the MDF edge, without T Molding? The render you posted looks like the edge is as clean as the sides. Ive found the edge of the MDF to look ugly, and it looks like it can come apart in the form of dust after a while. Im interested because of a project i need to finish up, but I would really like to not have to use T Molding on it. Im using 1/2" (12.7 mm) MDF on my project. |
| Ond:
--- Quote from: DaOld Man on January 09, 2019, 06:54:05 am ---Im probably jumping ahead here, and I hope you will forgive me, but how do you plan to get that polished look on the MDF edge, without T Molding? The render you posted looks like the edge is as clean as the sides. Ive found the edge of the MDF to look ugly, and it looks like it can come apart in the form of dust after a while. Im interested because of a project i need to finish up, but I would really like to not have to use T Molding on it. Im using 1/2" (12.7 mm) MDF on my project. --- End quote --- It's a good question. Sexy renders are all well and good. Achieving them in the real world is another thing entirely. Getting MDF (or any wood) up to the standard shown in the render is by way of my surface prep and painting method, which I've used throughout my projects. MDF edges are very ragged and porous. Using high build automotive primer (like in my video tutorial), the ragged spiky surface is transformed after several coats and sanding to a hard plastic like surface. The process puts a tough shell over the MDF, which can then be spray-painted and polished. A few other members here have successfully used this approach on their projects. Apart from using the right automotive primer and paint, success depends on a fair bit of effort and technique. See my tutorial for lots of details covering these things. A quick few coats of non-automotive primer and a coat or two of paint will NOT achieve that look. It will be rough and nasty, as you would expect. |
| Ond:
Today I de-cased the tube from the TV I'm using. I needed to measure the distance between the mount holes on the tube and I want to do some maintenance on the main board by way of cap replacements. I discharged the anode and the big power caps and then disassembled everything from the case. I removed the neck-board from the tube as well. As you can see it's a really nice flat 27" Panasonic tube in very good condition. I want to retain the TV's screen bezel for later so I cut this away from the rest of the TV cabinet. Here is one of the mount holes I mentioned. So now I have the tube's dimensions including mount point details, I'm going to get stuck into the construction design based on the concept render. I'll order some replacement caps from the Service Book parts list in the meantime as well. |
| Nephasth:
Love me a decased CRT... :drool |
| Ond:
--- Quote from: Nephasth on January 10, 2019, 11:28:34 pm ---Love me a decased CRT... :drool --- End quote --- Heh, who else but us BYOAC peoples would get excited at the sight of a CRT.... Well they are getting rarer and rarer these days. I worked on other arcade projects today until it got too hot in the workshop. Then I sat down and gave some thought to my construction approach for this project. The design I came up with hangs the CRT by the mount holes in a frame. All the weight from the frame is supported by the flat sides of the cab. The top Bezel can be removed to allow the CRT to be fitted or removed. The build plans have the cab slightly taller than the concept render (for seating ergonomics) but they are pretty close. Here's an exploded view of the vanity basin for our bathroom the cabinet. You can see how the parts fit (in theory). Next I'll cut the supporting frame for the CRT. |
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