Looking for some help for my BYOAC plans

[MikeyJ122]

So here goes...

I've been searching EVERYWHERE for some sort of plans similar to the ideas I have in my head, but can't seem to find them. So maybe someone can help put me in the right direction.

I am wanting to build a 32" (flat screen) 4 player cab. But the kicker is, I want it to be more of sit down cab (but with the traditional look and feel, not the Japanese version). I also want to have my pedals and steering wheel attached to the front of it, but not have the wheel be too much in the way. The pedals could be built into the bottom of the cab. One of the main reasons I want a sit down version as opposed to the stand up version is for driving games (Daytona USA is one of my favorite games period).

I am thinking a 3/4 size (for overall height) would probably be fairly accurate (not the arcade 1up size, but more the alpha cade from recroom master). For the control panel, I am going to buy the 4 player Xtension from recroom master (it gets great reviews, and the control panel is probably the most important and difficult part of the build). Plus if I were to try and do it myself, I probably couldn't do as good of a job, and it also wouldn't save THAT much money. So it just feels like that is the control panel for me (plus I REALLY like having dedicated mouse right and left buttons on the panel, as well as all the other options).

Originally I was just planning on buying recroom masters 32" 4 player cab as well. But the price feels a little on the high side imo, plus (reading reviews here and other places) it feels more like a MAME machine as opposed to an actual arcade. Which the look and feel IS important to me. Even though it IS a MAME machine, the idea of having something I built myself and is UNIQUE appeals to me.

I have to make this machine be able to do driving games, 4 player games (I have kids), and light gun games. Which I know that seems like a lot (but my wife is on board for this machine, I'm not sure I'll get the ok to do another in the near future, lol). Plus space IS an issue. So it really needs to be able to do EVERYTHING.

I'm not worried about the light guns (that's an easy enough). As for the racing wheel, thanks to folks on this board, I'm looking at the logitech MOMO wheel, so that's what I would like to have attached to it.

I guess what I'm kinda looking for are some nice 32" plans, that I can modify to suit my needs. I'm not interested in coin doors, I would rather use that space for my other needs.

Has ANYONE here built something similar? I would like to see some pics or info or ANYTHING really.

Thanks. Game on.

[Mike A]

You need it to do less. The machine you are describing will suck. it will look terrible. It will play terrible. It will never work correctly.

[MikeyJ122]

I understand it might not look the prettiest, but why do you say it'll play terribly? The games all work. Please elaborate.

[Howard_Casto]

An arcade panel needs to be lain out ergonomically so that you can play comfortably.  It would be nearly impossible to fit everything you've mentioned on one over-sized control panel well, not to mention a regular sized panel.  Also different controls will often fight each other in windows, with USB ids swapping around during bootup and ect.  There are other issues, but I don't want to kill you with a lengthy wall of text.  You are going to have trouble pulling your ideas off man. 


If this is your first cab I would stick to good old buttons and joysticks and that's it.   If you want to do racing games, you need to build a separate cab.  You might be able to squeeze in a trackball or a spinner, but I doubt it. 

[JDFan]

As others have mentioned trying to do too many things with one cab results in a bunch of games that all play poorly since you have to make concessions with each thing you add. Chances are the reason you can't find an example of what you are trying to build is because those that have tried it gave up the idea once they tried actually setting it up. 

[MikeyJ122]

Do you think light guns will be too much as well? What about keeping my xbox 360 wireless set up connected as well. Could that ALSO interfere with the joysticks?

I can play Daytona USA with a controller, but I dont think it would be possible without some sort of axis buttons.

[Howard_Casto]

Light guns don't take up any room, but you said it was going to be a sit-down cabinet.  To play light gun games you need to be standing several feet away.

[MikeyJ122]

So is room the only concern? Because I was thinking about designing a way for the wheel to swing out of the way when not in use.

Someone said the multiple controls can interfere with each other though. Does that mean physically or software wise? I would only have the wheel hooked up for certain games on certain emulators.

[Howard_Casto]

Physically and software wise.  Too many controls will have you stumbling all over the place to reach them.  Hooking and unhooking gamepads/ect will cause even more issues.  From windows 7 onwards Microsoft has done a really crappy job of managing controllers.  Light guns usually show up as mice, so you are going to have less issues, but the ids still tend to swap from time to time. 

[Malenko]

How many track balls, spinners, and Tron sticks you adding?  Wheel better have an H gate shifter and a high low shifter too. Don't forget the clutch pedal for Hard/Race Drivin.

[MikeyJ122]

My machine is Windows XP. Right now I play everything with xbox 360 controllers (and the wireless adapter). Which the only problems I have ever had with those is the controllers need to be on before you start a particular emulator. If you dont, it resets the button mapping back to default (keyboard).

I also use MALA as my FE. My setup is pretty "meat and potatoes" really. I keep it simple, and as such, I dont really have any problems. That's one of the reasons why I like the recroom masters 4 player xtensions control panel, it's really user friendly. Everything plugs into 1 USB port (including the trackball, which acts as a mouse). The control panel will do everything a keyboard can do (except for type). It also flashes button configuration for multiple platforms (and saves as many as you need), so in theory I wouldn't need to worry about my control configuration getting reset (like I do now).

So beyond THAT control panel, I would only add the wheel and 1 light gun (for now, maybe a 2nd later), and possibly my 360 wireless adapter (playstation and N64 games might be better with a controller, but I'm gonna decide that later). So that would be 4 USB ports being used. Could that cause an issue I'm unaware of? Right now I'm using 2, 360 adapter and a wireless mouse, but with the trackball and control panel, I would need the mouse anymore.

I'm genuinely asking here, I dont want to waste time or money on something that's not going to work.

[opt2not]

I’m assuming you’re planning on using an Aimtrak for the light guns? Because if not, you’re going to have to use a CRT. And from what I know, 32” CRT’s are hyyuuuuuge.

[MikeyJ122]

How many track balls, spinners, and Tron sticks you adding?  Wheel better have an H gate shifter and a high low shifter too. Don't forget the clutch pedal for Hard/Race Drivin.

Based on our discussion in the other thread, I would get the logitech momo wheel.

This is the 2 player control panel, I plan on getting 4 player version

[MikeyJ122]

Also let me add, for racing games, I'm not really all that worried about manual transmission abilities. The wheel, gas, and brake are ALL I really care to get working properly. I know race/hard driving REQUIRES you to put the car into gear, so I might have to do some figuring there. But again, I'll only really worry about automatic transmission. If I can get manual working, then great. But it's not really my priority.

[MikeyJ122]

I’m assuming you’re planning on using an Aimtrak for the light guns? Because if not, you’re going to have to use a CRT. And from what I know, 32” CRT’s are hyyuuuuuge.

Yes aimtrack. I know they are not perfect, but close is good enough for me. I'm not really worried about everything being arcade perfect. Just being able to play the games with joysticks/wheels/lightguns is part of the fun imo.

[MikeyJ122]

Here is another video comparing the recroom masters control panel to the X arcade tankstick.



I am by no means a rep for these guys, lol. I'm just trying to make a machine that my kids will want years after I'm dead and gone. I'm sure many of you can make a control panel just as good or maybe even better. Honestly for me, the control panel is the scariest part. So it's the one part I'm ok just buying, so then I know it'll be good.

[yotsuya]

Honestly for me, the control panel is the scariest part. So it's the one part I'm ok just buying, so then I know it'll be good.

I know what you mean, I was going to buy a Tankstick because I was terrified of the thought of wiring of my own controls. Then I actually TRIED rolling my own, and I never looked back.

[MikeyJ122]

Honestly for me, the control panel is the scariest part. So it's the one part I'm ok just buying, so then I know it'll be good.

I know what you mean, I was going to buy a Tankstick because I was terrified of the thought of wiring of my own controls. Then I actually TRIED rolling my own, and I never looked back.

If I had one in front of me, and was able to see how they connect, etc. I would probably have more confidence. I've only ever seen videos about how they are wired, etc. So I would hate to invest money into it, and have it not work properly. I have decent woodworking skills, so I'm more confident in that area. Plus I've already done the software part, so that's also not a worry.

[Malenko]

If I had one in front of me, and was able to see how they connect, etc. I would probably have more confidence. I've only ever seen videos about how they are wired, etc. So I would hate to invest money into it, and have it not work properly. I have decent woodworking skills, so I'm more confident in that area. Plus I've already done the software part, so that's also not a worry.

Brochacho, thats what we're here for. You get stuck, take some pix, ask for help and we HELP!

CPs are redonkulously easy. You're going to put it together and be like "thats it?"

[Howard_Casto]

The woodworking is the hard part.  The electronics are butt easy.  A switch is just two contact points... one goes to ground and one goes to whatever input you want it to use.  Depending upon the encoder you use you will either use an individual ground wire for each switch or you will daisy chain them all together as a single input.  That's literally it. 

[MikeyJ122]

The woodworking is the hard part.  The electronics are butt easy.  A switch is just two contact points... one goes to ground and one goes to whatever input you want it to use.  Depending upon the encoder you use you will either use an individual ground wire for each switch or you will daisy chain them all together as a single input.  That's literally it.

I was watching a video about wiring the joysticks, and it seemed like those are the more challenging. It seemed like those are where you can run into problems. Have you heard of any of this?

[JDFan]

The woodworking is the hard part.  The electronics are butt easy.  A switch is just two contact points... one goes to ground and one goes to whatever input you want it to use.  Depending upon the encoder you use you will either use an individual ground wire for each switch or you will daisy chain them all together as a single input.  That's literally it.

I was watching a video about wiring the joysticks, and it seemed like those are the more challenging. It seemed like those are where you can run into problems. Have you heard of any of this?

Joysticks are pretty much the same as 4 buttons - each direction has the same 2 wires as a button would (1 ground and 1 contact) So it is still very easy the only thing is some joysticks come with a 5-pin connector instead of 4 2 pin connectors - but the process is still the same just the 8 wires (ground and contact for each direction but there are 4 directional contact wires and the single ground wire for all 4 grounds ) - So depending on the encoder you are connecting to you will either have a 5 pin connection they plug into or might need to split the ground wire to go to 1 of the pins on each of the 4 2-pin connections.) Still not difficult to do esp. if you know which type of joystick connections you are getting and have an encoder with the proper connection for that type ( for example the cheap Zero delay encoders you see in most of the videos have both the 5 pin and the 4 2 pin connectins on the board so they work with either - you just need to order one that comes with the correct wires in the kit for the type joysticks you have ( or you have to do a bit of splicing if you ordered the wrong ones )

FOr example this kit has the 5-pin wire for Sanwa type joysticks  ( https://www.ebay.com/itm/Zero-Delay-Arcade-USB-Encoder-PC-to-Joystick-MAME-5Pin-Sanwa-Push-Button-AC425/222375354089?epid=14016021565&hash=item33c69a9ee9:g:IxIAAOSwa~JbMWfi:rk:36:pf:0 )

And this one has the extra 4 2 -pin wires for a happ type joystick -  https://www.ebay.com/itm/Zero-Delay-Arcade-USB-Encoder-PC-to-Joystick-Button-For-MAME-Fight-Stick-Control/162726022058?epid=17015021138&hash=item25e33a0baa:g:8BMAAOSwdW9Z8XkU:rk:28:pf:0

[PL1]

I was watching a video about wiring the joysticks, and it seemed like those are the more challenging. It seemed like those are where you can run into problems. Have you heard of any of this?

One possibly confusing thing about joystick microswitch wiring is that when you move the handle in one direction, the actuator hits the switch on the other side.



Once you sort out which switch goes with which direction, the wiring is the same as for button microwitches.


Scott

[MikeyJ122]

This was the video I watched on wiring, and it made me apprehensive when he gets into some of the potential "issues".