Polycade X Vewlix Build

[chioubaccalovin]

Hi Guys... I've been working on this project for a few weeks now and am at the painting stages and need some help.  More on that later....

After a recent trip to back to tokyo... I got the urge to build or acquire a candy cabinet.  The first thing I did was buy a Naomi Universal off craigslist.  I restored it somewhat and got SFIV running on it via steam.  However... then I wanted to get a VEWLIX to play in HD... but I really don't have room in my house for that form factor... so I set off to design something in Sketchup based off aspects of the polycae(wall-mount) and vewlix (rounded marquee)



 https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model/d0b4a295-7c34-4dbc-b36d-f9d4f9b9e4fd/Chioubaccalovin-Polylix

Now after designing that I had to figure out how to build it... i didn't have any serious power tools at the time.  So I contacted a local CNC/Cabinet maker and who happened to want to make a cabinet too.  He helped my transition my design to c-code and we cut out the core panels. 






Unfortunately the hole placement for the admin buttons look terrible...

I relocated the button holes for the admin panel and primed the cabinet.  I used a shellac primer to seal the MDF edges.  I put the monitor and controls in to gauge the usability. for a shallow control panel like this... a 32" monitor seems too big.

I had originally planned to roundover or bevel the CP, but when i assembled the cabinet i used crow staples so those would get in the way of the router bit.  In the end... I decided to dig out the staples and bevel anyway... which filling any holes with bondo.  I also cut the plexiglass for the marquee and the bezel.




For the guts I will have a raspberry pi / Intel NUC (for steam) / Nintendo Switch hooked up to a KVM that easily switches between the 3.  I'm really excited about the switch for this build as since most switch multiplayer games are designed to be controlled with a single joycon(no right analog stick), that means that they will translate to joystick use very well.

Now its really down to paint... I want to go glossy but everyone is warning me against that and it will show too many imperfections.  So I came here for a second opinion... is anyone who has done white piano gloss and has that been durable?  Any tips on the process and paint selection?

[javeryh]

Look in woodworking forum for OND’s painting guide.  Crazy piano finish that looks great.  That said, I still might want a piece of plexi over the CP because of wear and tear.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[opt2not]

That said, I still might want a piece of plexi over the CP because of wear and tear.

I say look into applying a polylaminated CPO instead. Easier to install, protects from wear and tear, and you can get nice designed artwork on it.
I've always felt that Plexi on CPO's looks cheap and conversion-like.  All the cabinets I've seen in my day that had plexi on the CP were almost always conversions. In fact, I can't think of 1 original cabinet that had plexi on it from the manufacturer. And I'm not counting screen-printed Plexi CPO, like on Nintendo cabinets, or cabarets.

[javeryh]

That said, I still might want a piece of plexi over the CP because of wear and tear.

I say look into applying a polylaminated CPO instead. Easier to install, protects from wear and tear, and you can get nice designed artwork on it.
I've always felt that Plexi on CPO's looks cheap and conversion-like.  All the cabinets I've seen in my day that had plexi on the CP were almost always conversions. In fact, I can't think of 1 original cabinet that had plexi on it from the manufacturer. And I'm not counting screen-printed Plexi CPO, like on Nintendo cabinets, or cabarets.

Yes - completely agree.  I suggested plexi only because this cab doesn’t have any art.  A polylaminated CPO is definitely the way to go for max durability. I guess he could always do a pure white one...

[chioubaccalovin]

Polylaminated CPO?  Does that mean I should get a sheet metal CP made and wrap it with some kind of laminate vinyl?

[opt2not]

Polylaminated CPO?  Does that mean I should get a sheet metal CP made and wrap it with some kind of laminate vinyl?

Polycarbonate Laminate (or polylaminate for short) is a tough UV durable film that is coated onto printing paper/vinyl. If you get your CPO printed at a shop, they may have this option.  It's a textured tough material that protects the CPO from scratches and wearing. It's also "breathable", as you're playing your hands might get sweaty. On a flat acrylic or plexi top, sweaty hands end up sticking to the surface or creates friction. With a polylaminate finish the textured surface dissipates the heat and moisture allowing your hands to not stick to the surface.
Most only Arcade art suppliers/printers have this as an option when you order your artwork, and it's the standard CPO texture on a lot of original cabinets from BITD.

[chioubaccalovin]

ok, so i basically just did a slap on a plexiglass CP.  I painted the back of it white, so it looks creamy smooth.  it would have been difficult to transition the CPO seemlessly with the beveled edges.

This is the wall panel with the Pi, Shield TV, and PC mounted

[Mike A]

Does the door clear the machine? That looks awfully close in the pic.

[chioubaccalovin]

There's about 3 " clearance.

[Mike A]

Nice. It looked closer than that in the other pic.

[opt2not]

Your audio set-up looks pretty sweet!  Nice tube amp. 

[Mike A]

Yeah. There are a few dollars in that audio rack. Nice equipment.