T-molding re-installation

[opt2not]

Concurrently with another thread asking how to fix t-molding slot mistakes, I'd like to get advice on re-installing t-molding without destroying the slots when pulling out the old t-molding. 

Every cabinet I've restored, I've found that after removing the existing old beat-up t-molding, the slots end up getting wider because bits of the wood gets torn away when the old stuff is pulled out.  Requiring you to wood fill/bondo the slots and re-route. 

This is a lot of extra work for refreshing the t-molding, which got me thinking what is the best way to remove t-molding without damaging the slot? Can it be avoided?

[Slippyblade]

I'm debating just shooting a bead of adhesive into the groove with a caulking gun and then installing new molding.  A lot easier than bondo and re-route.

[Malenko]

I've just used silicone caulk in the groove.

[behrmr]

The way it’s barbed you’re pretty much going to pull out wood. I find that a dab of hot glue here and there along the installation is all you need. Especially on the bends. A friend of mine folds electrical tape over the barb to make it bite better.

[opt2not]

I wonder if there's a way of pulling up the t-molding just enough to fit a blade under the flat part, and cutting the "t" part off. Then perhaps sliding the teeth part along the edges and out, rather than pulling perpendicular to the edges...

[Titchgamer]

As the others have mentioned I have just used hot glue in the past.

[MartyKong]

Disclaimer - Although I've heard this has been done, I myself haven't tried it. Using a dremel (perhaps with a routing attachment) cut the spline area of the tmolding allows for easy removal. I would try first on a scrap piece to see if this might work? Just throwing ideas out there.

[morton]

I have often worried about installing the T molding after paint etc, and presume its gonna be a "Do it right the first time" situation because any removal will pull something with it. It's just the nature of barbed stuff. I don't know if much of anything would help reduce it on older cabs because of the material used and how it has likely swelled a bit over time, making the mold tighter. I have noticed some T mold has thicker barbs than others, and have to take this into consideration moving forward.

Perhaps heating the T mold would make things more pliable, dry out the wood, and maybe help open things up some before removal? I have never tried or even considered it until now, but maybe it could be a way to make it easier to remove, and less damaging to the wood.