Speaker box project - a present to my daughter

Main > Project Announcements

<< < (3/8) > >>

BadMouth:
Had a slow day at work yesterday, so messed around with speaker designs in tinkercad. I was looking for a way to get it to tell me the interior volume and came accross this website which gives the volume for an stl file:
https://www.viewstl.com/
For odd shapes, I was able to determine interior air space by filling the interior with shapes, combining them, copy and pasting that to a new project, then downloading the stl file and viewing it with that website.
It worked out pretty good. If the enclosure has two flat sides, you can adjust the width to add or decrease volume without having to redo much.
I'm sure more professional software can do this internally, but this worked well for me without any learning curve.

Ond:
Cool! There's a lot of good online resources these days to help with speaker design here's a link to one that I like to use:

http://www.mh-audio.nl/spk_calc.asp

I'm going to go with biscuit joins on my little project. They are really strong, superior to dowel joins and let you assemble the box to check things out prior to gluing - no screws required. :cheers:

Ond:
Using a cutting template I've cut the various holes in the speaker baffles and rear panels.

Here are the two baffles afterward.

A test fit of speaker drivers and ports into the baffles. The marine ply baffles have a nice timber look so I think I'll varnish them and make the rest of the speaker cabinet high gloss black.

Ond:
I'm putting these little speakers together using biscuits and MDF glue. There's a bit of effort in setting up the biscuit cutter and figuring out where the slots should be cut. Biscuit joinery allows for simple glued joints which are also very strong. With this design the baffles need to be finished separately to the rest of the cabinet and then glued into place once the surface finishing is complete. I like using biscuits because they allow some positioning of panels during the gluing process. Once in place with panels aligned, they absorb wood glue, swell slightly and strongly lock the joins together.

Once the cutter is set up, each slot can be cut in exactly the same relative location on each panel allowing for precision joinery.

Here are the panels ready to be glued up. You can just see the matching slots in the side panels. I've also rebated the side, top and bottom panels to allow the rear panel to be fitted into the back of the cabinet.

... and here they are all glued up (except for the baffles). Once dry, I'm going to sand them down and then angle cut the edges of the baffle (and top and bottom panels) to 45 degrees like I've drawn in my design. I'll probably route the top and bottom edges very slightly with the 45 degree bit as well, so those corners aren’t super sharp later on with a high gloss finish.

next up... testing the drivers and preparing for surface finishing.

barrymossel:
Those biscuit joins are new to me. Could be really useful in future builds. Thanks!

Navigation

 Message Index

Go to full version