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| Mimic's Sister - Shapeshifter |
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| Laythe:
--- Quote from: pbj on July 01, 2018, 05:16:54 pm ---The hobby has moved on from vpins. --- End quote --- I'm pretty sure the world moved on from arcade games. :dunno If I were concerned by trends, I'd add some monitors for watching myself stream on Twitch. But I'm not. --- Quote from: rablack97 on July 01, 2018, 04:41:13 pm ---... I will tell you this now, your playfield section will have to be waaayyyyy deeper than that, which will kill your rotating function. Trust me when i tell you, every inch in the playfield section is utilized with parts, and it will be super heavy, not to mention the amount of wiring that will have to feed into the backbox from the playfield. --- End quote --- Thanks for the info! I checked out your thread on The Grid. I'm thinking the playfield box needs to contain the TV, the leaf-switch flipper buttons, left and right flipper solenoids housed behind the buttons, and a counterweight on the back side of the axle - since I'm looking at a 22lb force actuator, I'd want the CG pretty close to the axle. Probably also some cooling fans, the TV could use the help in that orientation - though those may be able to reside on the lower back frame. What parts am I missing that need to be in the playfield section? As it may be relevant to what ISN'T up there: The PC would be riding behind the shifter, under the flightstick, in that arm segment. The encoder boards, power supplies, various relays for solenoid, motor and audio control, and the audio amplifier would reside in two stationary project boxes beneath the left side of the moving playfield, attached to the front and back frames. That way I'm only pulling one moving USB line from the stationary encoder, instead of pulling the whole button wiring harness for all 12-odd buttons when the arm moves. The backbox contains two monitors - DMD is a portrait-turned 4:3 LCD sunk mostly down into the backbox neck... two speakers, and probably a fan or two venting out slots in the top back. My hope is that I can minimize constant service once it's Done. I'll have to tweak leaf switches for sure, and replace microswitches when they die, but after I buttoned up Mimic I haven't had to keep messing with it... much. Anyway, if there's playfield guts I'm not accounting for, this would be an excellent time to learn about them! :D |
| rablack97:
--- Quote from: pbj on July 01, 2018, 05:16:54 pm ---The hobby has moved on from vpins. --- End quote --- --- Quote from: Laythe on July 01, 2018, 06:38:16 pm ---I'm pretty sure the world moved on from arcade games. :dunno If I were concerned by trends, I'd add some monitors for watching myself stream on Twitch. But I'm not. --- End quote --- A few things Laythe, you need to determine your toy limits based on how interactive you want your vpin to be, the more you have the more realistic it gets. You have solenoids (up to 10), knockers, blowers, shakers, gear motors, these are powered by 5v, 12v 24v psu's. I also have a sub in my cab, a large fan for ventilation. If you want to keep the backglass a proportionate, i would recommend doing a pin2dmd for your dmd, if your not going to worry too much about topper videos etc. I also wouldn't recommend going lower than an I5 and gtx960 for your video card, gtx970 is good card that has been proved to work well with 4k tv's if that is the route you want to go for your playfield, 1050's and 1080 work well too if you can source these at a good price. You also might look into BAM and an xboxone kinect if you want a headtracking 3d effect on your Future Pinball tables. Think of your lighting as well, flashers, strobes, addressable led effects. You will also need to consider which frontend you will use, the top ones in use today if Pinball X and Pinup Popper. When i say high maintenance I also mean time spent in the software. There is a lot too it and you will find yourself deeply engrossed in all of the cool stuff vpins can do these days. My build logs sucks, cause i grow tired real easy and get lazy about posting. I would follow Terry Reds build for a more in depth look at what all goes into a VPIN, his is pimped out to the max. Mine is too, but he did a way better job documenting his and i followed his as a guide. I just want you to be clear on what all is possible, cause when you start building these things you dont end of just throwing a few buttons on it, and the more you find out about them the more complex your project will get. Your wiring will have to be pretty solid, will all of these twists and turns, cause the wiring in a vpin is pretty in depth. Let me know if you have anymore questions. |
| yotsuya:
--- Quote from: Laythe on July 01, 2018, 06:38:16 pm --- --- Quote from: pbj on July 01, 2018, 05:16:54 pm ---The hobby has moved on from vpins. --- End quote --- I'm pretty sure the world moved on from arcade games. :dunno If I were concerned by trends, I'd add some monitors for watching myself stream on Twitch. But I'm not. --- End quote --- |
| Mike A:
You need a bunch of subwoofers aimed straight at your junk too. |
| Laythe:
Thanks, rablack97! Food for thought. I've got a plan for the front end; I'll be writing one from scratch for my cabinet. (That said, I'm surprised to see how poorly behaved VPX is in that regard - wow, you really have to force-kill it to close the editor window after playing despite starting it with command line switches? Sheesh.) pin2dmd looks great, and I'm tempted, but I've already got a couple of LCD monitors this size in my spare parts to put the DMD on. Tried it out, it feels good enough for me, and I like that it can also do sixteen segment displays. Does turn out to matter which way I rotate these LCDs though - they've got a strong side and a weak side on viewing angle, but I can put the weak side toward the wall, problem solved. I managed to score all three displays - backglass, playfield, and DMD - for free out of my and my friends parts heaps... and I still think this is gonna be a $1500 project. I'll look through Terry Red's Pinkadia build log again, thanks for the tip. |
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