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Author Topic: Mimic's Sister - Shapeshifter  (Read 3319 times)

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Laythe

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Mimic's Sister - Shapeshifter
« on: June 30, 2018, 11:54:57 pm »
So, Gingerballs made me realize I need to build a vpin.  Thanks, Malenko.

Mimic is slick and I'm happy with it - but as a stand-up machine, with the basic joystick and buttons, it doesn't do driving games well.

I'm on a budget.  I have a small house.

So I got to thinking.

A full size vpin needs a burly computer with a good 3D vidcard, and a huge monitor for a playfield in portrait, and a big footprint.
A driving cab, or sim pit, needs a burly computer with a good 3D vidcard and a huge monitor for a front window in landscape, and a big footprint.

If those were the same, it could save me a fair chunk of money and a lot of square feet of floorspace.   

We had a thread here a little while back bemoaning the death of innovation, and I object to that.

Mimic is every upright cab I need, horizontal or vertical, and does a great job at that.  Could one other thing cover the rest?

(I've got a wager with NotThatJennifer regarding what the overall reception here to the idea will be - we'll see who's right.)


So, I've got this idea.  I'm gathering parts toward building it.  Figure I'll show you all, and see what you think.  It doesn't have a name yet.  Lots of renders coming up.  No sawdust yet.

When you're playing the thing like a pinball machine, it looks like this.



It's mostly a vpin machine, except for a 2" tall deck with rails on the sides of it that you can walk on, off to the right.  Three monitors, 16:10 backglass, 4:3 sideways DMD, 16:9 42" TV playfield, nothing crazy.

Yet.

From the side, it looks like this.



Everything that isn't very vpin-like stows between the legs.  You don't end up with a full height pinball cabinet, but I think the shapes still suggest the right silhouette pretty well.  But that's just, like, my opinion, man, I know.



There's clearance behind it to still get to my crawlspace, that's the door behind the backbox.  But that sharply limits the max depth the thing can have front-to-back.



So, this is the basic idea of the thing, in it's stowed / vpin position.

But.

It's motorized.  There's a 8" throw linear actuator under that playfield, on a bell crank.  The axle is rotated 3' counterclockwise and inclined 3', and the monitor is mounted to that axle rotated 3' clockwise and inclined an additional 3', so in this mode, it's 6' inclined, but when the axle rotates 90 degrees on the actuator under it, and when the other motor pushes the seat back 50" and the midstage arm back 24"...  well, this happens.



(The sequencing of the motors and safeties is done by the host PC.  I plan to use an Ultimarc Ultimate IO to check positional limit switch inputs and drive relays to run the actuators.)

Once it's out in driving mode, the front-end I'll write will switch from giving the menu on the backglass, to giving the menu on the main screen, and it's a sim pit.  Heights and reaches to seat, screen and controls are pretty close to other racing games I've measured.  The seat will be adjustable fore-aft independent of everything else. 



There's plenty of room to get into it, unlike some racing cabs and my first stab at a sim-pit a few decades ago.

When you're behind the controls, should look something like:



There's gotta be some relays to flip the audio from the backbox speakers left-right, to the newly exposed speakers in the front and back cabinet boxes, to keep stereo positioning working right.  But the PC can fire that relay while it's doing the transform sequence in either direction, I figure.


Anyway, this is what I'm thinking.  This is to be the thing that does everything Mimic can't do well - Afterburner, Hard Drivin', Outrun, SF Rush, Daytona USA, Star Wars, some flight sims, and a selection of maybe twenty vpin tables. 

I have not gone deep into the weeds on how all the bearings and actuators and so on work in this post, because I figure there's no point going into all that if the initial reaction to the design as a whole turns out to be "Dear god what is that unholy thing".   ;D


Opinions?
« Last Edit: August 08, 2018, 01:50:20 am by Laythe »

Nephasth

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Re: Mimic's Sister - name TBD
« Reply #1 on: July 01, 2018, 12:16:16 am »
%Bartop

Laythe

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Re: Mimic's Sister - name TBD
« Reply #2 on: July 01, 2018, 12:21:34 am »
Ambitious. :cheers:

Heh, yeah.  True that.   :cheers:

yotsuya

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Re: Mimic's Sister - name TBD
« Reply #3 on: July 01, 2018, 02:40:13 am »
If anyone can pull it off, itíll be you,my friend - but I think itíll be in Pinball Mode 90% of the time.

You just need to buy a dedicated Hard Driving!!! That was my favorite memory of ZapCon 2018!
***Build what you dig, bro. Build what you dig.***

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Re: Mimic's Sister - name TBD
« Reply #4 on: July 01, 2018, 07:09:32 am »
That would be so cool! Looking forward to seeing this build!

Mike A

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Re: Mimic's Sister - name TBD
« Reply #5 on: July 01, 2018, 08:01:09 am »
I don't think it will be worth all of the effort. First off, I have played a bunch of vpins. They just don't feel right. There are some really nice looking machines on this forum, maybe the play experience is better with them. The only ones I have played have been at the MGC.
I have no doubt that you can pull this off, but it doesn't look like you are saving any floor space by tucking the driving right underneath. There is still part of the frame on the floor when the seat is tucked underneath.
Go get a Hard Drivin' cab. You freakin' rule that game.

All that being said, if you do this, it has to make the classic transformers sound when it transforms back and forth.

Zapcon 2019. Be there. I didn't really get a chance to talk to you.

Laythe

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Re: Mimic's Sister - name TBD
« Reply #6 on: July 01, 2018, 12:27:31 pm »
Thanks, yotsuya and barrymossel. 

(Yots:  I did actually find a local Race Drivin', but if I'd gotten it, I'd never have a vpin or Outrun.  I think I can get everything but the FFB and shifter lockout working well in emulation.)

I have no doubt that you can pull this off, but it doesn't look like you are saving any floor space by tucking the driving right underneath. There is still part of the frame on the floor when the seat is tucked underneath.

My thinking on the frame on the floor is that it still counts as floor to me - I can walk on it, so it's walkway.  Some drafts had the chair on carpet-capable wheels, to avoid that frame existing - but knowing me, that'd mean I'd stack other crap in the way of it deploying and then either not be able to deploy it or crash it. 

That frame is kind of the equivalent of diagonal yellow stripes painted on a robotic factory floor, to me.  "Hey dummy this is the exclusionary zone."

All that being said, if you do this, it has to make the classic transformers sound when it transforms back and forth.

Yes!  This is required.  Randomly, either that, or the sound of a pit crew with air ratchets, or the Six Million Dollar Man noise.  The front-end will do this.   ;D

Zapcon 2019. Be there. I didn't really get a chance to talk to you.

I don't think I'm likely on 2019, though to be fair I didn't think I was likely on 2018 either.  I wouldn't be surprised if I made it back someday though, if the BYOAC horde keeps going.

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Re: Mimic's Sister - name TBD
« Reply #7 on: July 01, 2018, 04:41:13 pm »
Having went through the process of building a vpin.  The puprose is to get it as close as possible to the real thing.  I will tell you this now, your playfield section will have to be waaayyyyy deeper than that, which will kill your rotating function.

Trust me when i tell you, every inch in the playfield section is utilized with parts, and it will be super heavy, not to mention the amount of wiring that will have to feed into the backbox from the playfield.

With a VPIN i've learned its all or you're building a piece of crap.  Half ass full size vpins are a waste of time actually.  Turning a TV putting a monitor on top and putting buttons on the side and front is not a vpin to me its a a big ass tate machine laying on its back.

So think long and hard about combining the two, you need easy access to the backglass and the table at all times as stated they are high maint and constantly evolving.  So IMHO i would go either or, or seperate the two.
   

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Re: Mimic's Sister - name TBD
« Reply #8 on: July 01, 2018, 05:16:54 pm »
The hobby has moved on from vpins. 

yotsuya

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Re: Mimic's Sister - name TBD
« Reply #9 on: July 01, 2018, 05:21:24 pm »
Having went through the process of building a vpin.  The puprose is to get it as close as possible to the real thing.  I will tell you this now, your playfield section will have to be waaayyyyy deeper than that, which will kill your rotating function.

Trust me when i tell you, every inch in the playfield section is utilized with parts, and it will be super heavy, not to mention the amount of wiring that will have to feed into the backbox from the playfield.

With a VPIN i've learned its all or you're building a piece of crap.  Half ass full size vpins are a waste of time actually.  Turning a TV putting a monitor on top and putting buttons on the side and front is not a vpin to me its a a big ass tate machine laying on its back.

So think long and hard about combining the two, you need easy access to the backglass and the table at all times as stated they are high maint and constantly evolving.  So IMHO i would go either or, or seperate the two.

I had a good talk about these with Rodney when he was here. You might want to pick his brain Laythe.
***Build what you dig, bro. Build what you dig.***

Laythe

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Re: Mimic's Sister - name TBD
« Reply #10 on: July 01, 2018, 06:38:16 pm »
The hobby has moved on from vpins.
I'm pretty sure the world moved on from arcade games.   :dunno

If I were concerned by trends, I'd add some monitors for watching myself stream on Twitch.  But I'm not.


...  I will tell you this now, your playfield section will have to be waaayyyyy deeper than that, which will kill your rotating function.  Trust me when i tell you, every inch in the playfield section is utilized with parts, and it will be super heavy, not to mention the amount of wiring that will have to feed into the backbox from the playfield.

Thanks for the info!  I checked out your thread on The Grid.

I'm thinking the playfield box needs to contain the TV, the leaf-switch flipper buttons, left and right flipper solenoids housed behind the buttons, and a counterweight on the back side of the axle - since I'm looking at a 22lb force actuator, I'd want the CG pretty close to the axle.  Probably also some cooling fans, the TV could use the help in that orientation - though those may be able to reside on the lower back frame.

What parts am I missing that need to be in the playfield section?


As it may be relevant to what ISN'T up there:

The PC would be riding behind the shifter, under the flightstick, in that arm segment.  The encoder boards, power supplies, various relays for solenoid, motor and audio control, and the audio amplifier would reside in two stationary project boxes beneath the left side of the moving playfield, attached to the front and back frames.  That way I'm only pulling one moving USB line from the stationary encoder, instead of pulling the whole button wiring harness for all 12-odd buttons when the arm moves. 

The backbox contains two monitors - DMD is a portrait-turned 4:3 LCD sunk mostly down into the backbox neck...  two speakers, and probably a fan or two venting out slots in the top back.

My hope is that I can minimize constant service once it's Done.  I'll have to tweak leaf switches for sure, and replace microswitches when they die, but after I buttoned up Mimic I haven't had to keep messing with it... much.


Anyway, if there's playfield guts I'm not accounting for, this would be an excellent time to learn about them!   :D

rablack97

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Re: Mimic's Sister - name TBD
« Reply #11 on: July 01, 2018, 08:48:03 pm »
The hobby has moved on from vpins.
I'm pretty sure the world moved on from arcade games.   :dunno

If I were concerned by trends, I'd add some monitors for watching myself stream on Twitch.  But I'm not.



A few things Laythe, you need to determine your toy limits based on how interactive you want your vpin to be, the more you have the more realistic it gets.

You have solenoids (up to 10), knockers, blowers, shakers, gear motors, these are powered by 5v, 12v 24v psu's. I also have a sub in my cab, a large fan for ventilation.

If you want to keep the backglass a proportionate, i would recommend doing a pin2dmd for your dmd, if your not going to worry too much about topper videos etc.

I also wouldn't recommend going lower than an I5 and gtx960 for your video card, gtx970 is good card that has been proved to work well with 4k tv's if that is the route you want to go for your playfield, 1050's and 1080 work well too if you can source these at a good price.

You also might look into BAM and an xboxone kinect if you want a headtracking 3d effect on your Future Pinball tables.

Think of your lighting as well, flashers, strobes, addressable led effects.

You will also need to consider which frontend you will use, the top ones in use today if Pinball X and Pinup Popper.  When i say high maintenance I also mean time spent in the software.  There is a lot too it and you will find yourself deeply engrossed in all of the cool stuff vpins can do these days.

My build logs sucks, cause i grow tired real easy and get lazy about posting.  I would follow Terry Reds build for a more in depth look at what all goes into a VPIN, his is pimped out to the max. Mine is too, but he did a way better job documenting his and i followed his as a guide.

I just want you to be clear on what all is possible, cause when you start building these things you dont end of just throwing a few buttons on it, and the more you find out about them the more complex your project will get.  Your wiring will have to be pretty solid, will all of these twists and turns, cause the wiring in a vpin is pretty in depth.

Let me know if you have anymore questions.

   

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yotsuya

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Re: Mimic's Sister - name TBD
« Reply #12 on: July 01, 2018, 09:34:11 pm »
The hobby has moved on from vpins.
I'm pretty sure the world moved on from arcade games.   :dunno

If I were concerned by trends, I'd add some monitors for watching myself stream on Twitch.  But I'm not.

***Build what you dig, bro. Build what you dig.***

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Re: Mimic's Sister - name TBD
« Reply #13 on: July 01, 2018, 10:21:20 pm »
You need a bunch of subwoofers aimed straight at your junk too.

Laythe

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Re: Mimic's Sister - name TBD
« Reply #14 on: July 01, 2018, 10:38:14 pm »
Thanks, rablack97!  Food for thought.

I've got a plan for the front end; I'll be writing one from scratch for my cabinet.  (That said, I'm surprised to see how poorly behaved VPX is in that regard - wow, you really have to force-kill it to close the editor window after playing despite starting it with command line switches?  Sheesh.)

pin2dmd looks great, and I'm tempted, but I've already got a couple of LCD monitors this size in my spare parts to put the DMD on.  Tried it out, it feels good enough for me, and I like that it can also do sixteen segment displays.  Does turn out to matter which way I rotate these LCDs though - they've got a strong side and a weak side on viewing angle, but I can put the weak side toward the wall, problem solved.

I managed to score all three displays - backglass, playfield, and DMD - for free out of my and my friends parts heaps... and I still think this is gonna be a $1500 project. 

I'll look through Terry Red's Pinkadia build log again, thanks for the tip.

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Re: Mimic's Sister - name TBD
« Reply #15 on: July 02, 2018, 09:31:55 am »
So, Gingerballs made me realize I need to build a vpin.  Thanks, Malenko.

Honored to be mentioned!

You can use (my) Pin2DMD colorizations with an LCD now, freezy updated his DLL. I just started coloring TMNT, and I'm redrawing everything (just like SF2)
http://vpuniverse.com/forums/topic/3616-tmnt/


The concept looks really cool and if anyone can actually pull it off, its you.
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Laythe

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Re: Mimic's Sister - name TBD
« Reply #16 on: July 16, 2018, 03:40:04 am »
Minor update:  I've started making metal chips, if not sawdust yet.

I realized that my whole front cabinet box is going to be about 1 3/8" deep (interior space) - and being about 20" wide and 14" tall at that depth, that slot was going to be a pain to service any failed switches or whatnot in.  So, real coin door time just to give me an easy way back in.

1 3/8" behind the coin door doesn't say working coin mechs.  It's enough space to stash the pinball service button array, for a small touch of authenticity.  But I really like the feel of those re-purposed rectangular poker buttons as coin buttons, so I did the surgery necessary to mount them in place of the normal coin mechs and returns. 

I picked up a widebody Williams lockdown bar, 25" wide, so that's going to set one of my major dimensions.

Basically just wanted to say I've hit the "yeah I'm really doing this" stage.  Pictures to follow as it progresses.

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Re: Mimic's Sister - name TBD
« Reply #17 on: July 16, 2018, 06:26:46 am »
Looking forward to this one.

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Re: Mimic's Sister - name TBD
« Reply #18 on: July 16, 2018, 09:17:28 am »
I don't have a horse in this race - I do admire the effort on the drawings  (Sketchup?)
Good luck!
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Re: Mimic's Sister - name TBD
« Reply #19 on: July 16, 2018, 09:35:20 am »
The drawings look like they could be in an updated "Money for Nothing" video.

Laythe

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Re: Mimic's Sister - name TBD
« Reply #20 on: July 16, 2018, 10:58:56 am »
I don't have a horse in this race - I do admire the effort on the drawings  (Sketchup?)
Good luck!

Thanks!

3DS Max R5.  One of my other hats is a game developer, and I own a personal copy.  It's not really a CAD package, precisely - but I can force it to act enough like one for my purposes. 

Laythe

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Re: Mimic's Sister - name TBD
« Reply #21 on: July 21, 2018, 03:30:23 pm »
I start projects like this in chaos.  I collect parts, I work on whatever catches my eye.

There's so much to do, and most of it doesn't depend on some specific order of operations that it doesn't really matter, as long as work gets done.

I do however want to be sure this is going to work before I get too far, so, I lean stuff up in a mock-up.



That isn't the real backglass monitor, it's just one I had around the house.  That is the real DMD monitor - I've got an identical pair of them so a replacement spare is on hand.  This TV ended up being spare, so I initially designed the whole cabinet around it.

25" wide Williams widebody lockdown bar, because I didn't want to fabricate one, and it's a big point of human interface with the vpin.

2" square 1/8" thick aluminum legs, because I am really concerned about the rigidity of the structure - a traditional pinball cab or vpin is a closed box, and I'm making something far less solid by effectively cutting away like 2.5 of the 4 solid sides.  I've got plans to sink them into the corners such that they kind of look like the traditional pinball leg L channels on the outside at the top when it's all done.)

4x 4" speakers and a 25-watt amp on the right.  Power control relay on the floor on the left.  Ipac Ultimate IO in the cardboard box. 

Having stacked most of the parts up, I wanted to see it run to know if this would satisfy me.



It's alive!  It worked, but the spare TV wasn't cutting it for a playfield.  Black level wasn't great, you could see it dithering, and the brightness or gamma would sometimes change of it's own volition despite turning everything off in the OSD menus.   So I found a deal on a 46" NEC commercial signage panel and ordered it.

It's nice.  Much better display, and I love that equal 3/4" wide bezel on all four sides.  Having the TV display slightly offset in pinball mode was irritating my OCD.



Additionally, the NEC has cooling fans and adjustable thermal profiles in it, being commercial signage - and it'll report it's internal temperature from three sensors in the onscreen display if you request it.  That could be very handy while running it in an orientation the engineers never intended.

The PC is going to be controlling the motorized rotation/transformation by way of relays and limit switches attached to the Ultimate IO.  The frontend is going to have to be bespoke - I want a menu on the backglass that lays pinball games out left-right, choice via flipper buttons, selection via start or launch or coin - and the far right option to be "Cockpit Games".   When you hit that, it'll slide the chair out, slide the dashboard out, rotate the playfield, move the game selection menu onto the playfield-now-windshield panel, and select from a list of driving/flying/space games via the flightstick or wheel or shifter paddles, with the far right option being "Pinball Games" to return to the first mode...

That's... not Hyperspin.   ;D 

So, I'm writing my own FE again.  I figure I'll use the DMD panel for status messages and make them look like a DMD - so, here's an early shot.



The frontend works as far as displaying the appropriate menus on the appropriate panels and starting some games, though it's still far from done.  It's far enough to confirm to me that it will work, though, and that's what the early stages of this look like for me - take each experimental part far enough along that I'm certain it's viable, before I get too deep.

Next up:  Coin door.

Laythe

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Re: Mimic's Sister - name TBD
« Reply #22 on: July 21, 2018, 03:53:58 pm »
My front box is about 2 1/2" deep - it's only as deep front to back as a lockdown bar is.  Internal space is about 1 3/8", which is just enough to contain a 4" speaker, the backs of the buttons, and a pinball 4-button service bracket.  Thinking about how wide it is, and how tall, getting inside it to work on anything was increasingly unappealing. 

So, I'm going coin door this time, for the sake of having a big access hatch.  I picked up one of the "mame" coin doors from twisted quarter, because there's absolutely no way I have room for coin mechs or anything like that behind it anyway. 

What I got appears to be a real coin door with a lot of plastic blankers to neuter it.  Cool, works for me.  Here's how it arrived:



I wanted to be able to fit decased poker buttons into the coin slot area, because I love how those look and feel on Mimic.  They'll fit, but, doing so requires some careful carving.  There's not a lot left of the chute insert once you get there.



The poker buttons are taller and narrower than what was there, so I've got a gap on the right I'll need to fill - I'll probably use epoxy clay for that and paint it all black. 

I cut both chutes to look like the one on the right, test mounted the switches, and discovered - heh, one, I'd removed so much of the plastic chute housing that there wasn't much for the button nut to grab on, and two, the chutes are tapered, so the nut isn't square to the coin door, it's got a downward tilt. 

So, some work on the door was necessary to have something solid to mount to.  Here's the rough initial fabrication.



This unruly array of aluminum bars, fender washers and spacers picks up all the mounting screws in the upper coin door, and makes something solid for the button nuts to grab.  It's quite solid, though not pretty yet.

From the side, you can see the results of the chute housing angle better.  I cut pockets in the upper bar to tune the angle more precisely.  I'll paint all this stuff black before final assembly, at the very least.



The result, as viewed from the front, is something I'm very happy with the look and feel of. 



I've still got gaps on the right side to fill and blend, but, yessssss.  This is what I was going for, and that will do nicely.

Having gotten that assembled, I immediately wanted to see it lit up and working, so I started working on part of one of the wiring harnesses.



But, I ran out of time to work on it before getting it all lit up.  Next time. 

That's where it all sits for now.  It'll probably take quite a few months for me to finish this thing, but it will get done.  I waited until I was completely done with Mimic to post anything about it here so I wouldn't keep people waiting, but this time I'm posting about it as I go.


(I've also been bouncing names around.  I vetoed "Cockpit & pinBalls".  Current lead candidate is perhaps "Shapeshifter".)

rave0035

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Re: Mimic's Sister - name TBD
« Reply #23 on: July 22, 2018, 12:49:35 pm »
(I've also been bouncing names around.  I vetoed "Cockpit & pinBalls".  Current lead candidate is perhaps "Shapeshifter".)

PinWheels
Bumper/Car
Tilt n' Roll!
Pinballs and Pinstripes
Paddles and Pedals

...too on the nose?
You can't truly know how something works until you've ruined it by taking it apart.

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Re: Mimic's Sister - name TBD
« Reply #24 on: July 22, 2018, 01:13:54 pm »
As long as you don't steal my 'FLiP' name we're cool  :cheers:

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Re: Mimic's Sister - name TBD
« Reply #25 on: July 22, 2018, 02:12:10 pm »
As long as you don't steal my 'FLiP' name we're cool  :cheers:

Hehehe.  Arright, it's a deal.  I cede the *ip namespace, you've earned it. :lol

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Re: Mimic's Sister - name TBD
« Reply #26 on: July 22, 2018, 02:22:14 pm »
Drain and Chicane
Pop Bumper Cars
Silver Ball Drifter
Flipper Pass

No matter one's station in life, the Dance of Death unites us all.

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Re: Mimic's Sister - name TBD
« Reply #27 on: July 22, 2018, 06:56:27 pm »
I would call this Velocity. Since this is a speed machine, speed of Pinball and obviously racing. Plus it would look cool on the side of a cab.
Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin to slit throats.

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Re: Mimic's Sister - name TBD
« Reply #28 on: July 22, 2018, 07:04:30 pm »
You have to work balls into the name somehow.

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Re: Mimic's Sister - name TBD
« Reply #29 on: July 22, 2018, 07:29:20 pm »
Call it Speedball because everyone that plays a virtual pin wants to die afterwards.


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Re: Mimic's Sister - name TBD
« Reply #30 on: July 22, 2018, 09:06:51 pm »
Shapeshifter
***Build what you dig, bro. Build what you dig.***

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Re: Mimic's Sister - name TBD
« Reply #31 on: July 23, 2018, 05:36:44 pm »
If there ever was a build that should have a Transformers theme, this would be it  :D

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Re: Mimic's Sister - name TBD
« Reply #32 on: July 23, 2018, 08:41:17 pm »
You have to work balls into the name somehow.

Fine,

High Velocity Balls
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Re: Mimic's Sister - name TBD
« Reply #33 on: July 24, 2018, 06:58:07 am »
YES..I love this design. 

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Re: Mimic's Sister - name TBD
« Reply #34 on: July 24, 2018, 07:33:20 am »
So before I critique--I love vpin and all things modular--so I'm not biased (as some) right out of the gate.  That said, I wonder about a few things.  With square tube legs, how are they going to be bolted to a front section that's only 1 3/8" thick held together to the backbox by a relatively thin shaft that the monitor is rotating on.  I somehow see this thing buckling right at that connection point.  There's also the playability of standing there and having some pinball dude shaking it (cause thats what they do) trying to get some english on the ball.  Again, it just doesn't seem strong enough since you have used the traditional strength of a pinball (the large deep box) into a very shallow rotating one.

From an aesthetic standpoint I think square tubes are a step backwards--if its going to be a "pinball" machine--which is what it will supposed to be 90%-95% of the time, why not use real legs? 

Anyways, I get the idea and the desire to have one machine be useful for multiple functions, but I'm just not sure this is the best scenario :dunno
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Re: Mimic's Sister - name TBD
« Reply #35 on: July 24, 2018, 11:18:01 pm »
So before I critique--I love vpin and all things modular--so I'm not biased (as some) right out of the gate.  That said, I wonder about a few things.  With square tube legs, how are they going to be bolted to a front section that's only 1 3/8" thick held together to the backbox by a relatively thin shaft that the monitor is rotating on.  I somehow see this thing buckling right at that connection point.  There's also the playability of standing there and having some pinball dude shaking it (cause thats what they do) trying to get some english on the ball.  Again, it just doesn't seem strong enough since you have used the traditional strength of a pinball (the large deep box) into a very shallow rotating one.

That's an excellent point.  +1 for solid critique!

In the shots I posted, you can't really see the internals of the thing.  The black bits on the ground aren't just badly drawn shadows, they're a flat H bar of 2" wide maybe .25" thick steel flat, which the four legs are tied into at the base - that means the box has effectively got a floor to it.

Here's some shots of the thing with the playfield and driving guts removed, so that you can see the frame of it.







There's going to be some framing connecting the "back" wall (as a driving cab, the "left" wall as a vpin) together.  As rendered, that'd be a 2" square steel weldment, since it also carries the lug the screen-tilting linear actuator attaches to.  I might juggle things to make room to make that out of plywood and wood, I'm not certain yet.

On the top center, the main axle being in flanges and thrust washers should mean that it is structural against tension and compression there as well.  I'm thinking maybe 1" diameter 0.25" wall steel tube there. 

With the bottom, the back and the top bridged, only the right/front wall is completely cut away.

So, I think the big flex question is going to be, if you were to punch the heck out of the launch ball button in the upper right corner of the front frame, how far can you flex it back?  That's the most unsupported corner.  I'm going to try to make that front box as rigid versus twisting as I possibly can - 3/4" plywood front and back as full shear webs - and yeah, there's going to be at least 4 bolts clamping each leg into the front frame because of that.

I might need to fillet the floor-laying H up into the legs a bit to stiffen that joint up.

Is it enough?  I'm not 100% sure.  Your concern is quite valid, for sure.  Props for being the first to raise it!


From an aesthetic standpoint I think square tubes are a step backwards--if its going to be a "pinball" machine--which is what it will supposed to be 90%-95% of the time, why not use real legs? 

The first answer probably covers the second question - now that you can see the whole skeleton, you can see why I wanted to be able to tie into the bottom of the legs as well, not just have them sitting on the floor.  I believe the 1/8" thick 2" square aluminum section is going to be more rigid than real pinball legs would be.

Seeing inside, whattya think?  Does that axle joint still look like probable doom to you?

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Re: Mimic's Sister - name TBD
« Reply #36 on: July 25, 2018, 07:56:41 am »
Thats funny what you said about the black bits on the ground--I did think they were shadows!  So that helps for sure.  On the back left rather than simply making a 90 degree connection between your tubes--could you put in some angles in there to help prevent front to back racking?  Taking it even further--could the the whole back left be a solid piece versus tubing?  you'd get more rigidity I would think than a bar with a 2" connection point. 

The large and heavy backbox will likely want to sway (in pin position that is) I used a 26" tv and a 19" display inside a traditional pinhead for mine and its as heavy as a mofo..And the fact that the 19" extends down into the pinbody does limit the connection surface.  The pinball cabinet I used (south park) had very nice metal brackets that realy stiffen the works. Maybe something on the back left for yours as well?

https://www.google.com/search?q=southpark+pinball&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwj12c-9mLrcAhXo7YMKHYKhAdYQ_AUICigB&biw=1600&bih=767#imgrc=joVUeSdYbfCRVM:

don't know if that helps but it sounds like you aren't just throwing sh$t at a wall to see what sticks! Keep on keeping on!
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Re: Mimic's Sister - name TBD
« Reply #37 on: July 25, 2018, 11:11:47 am »
Thats funny what you said about the black bits on the ground--I did think they were shadows!  So that helps for sure.  On the back left rather than simply making a 90 degree connection between your tubes--could you put in some angles in there to help prevent front to back racking?  Taking it even further--could the the whole back left be a solid piece versus tubing?  you'd get more rigidity I would think than a bar with a 2" connection point. 

The large and heavy backbox will likely want to sway (in pin position that is) I used a 26" tv and a 19" display inside a traditional pinhead for mine and its as heavy as a mofo..And the fact that the 19" extends down into the pinbody does limit the connection surface.  The pinball cabinet I used (south park) had very nice metal brackets that realy stiffen the works. Maybe something on the back left for yours as well?

https://www.google.com/search?q=southpark+pinball&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwj12c-9mLrcAhXo7YMKHYKhAdYQ_AUICigB&biw=1600&bih=767#imgrc=joVUeSdYbfCRVM:

don't know if that helps but it sounds like you aren't just throwing sh$t at a wall to see what sticks! Keep on keeping on!

Oh, that helps, absolutely.

Webbing in as much of the back wall as I can would help stop the whole thing twisting up, yeah.  Good call.  (Won't be very visible when it's together and along side an interior wall, either.)

I hadn't given much thought to the backbox wanting to sway, I've been so obsessed with the flexibility of the front box.  Didn't even occur to me to worry about the backbox.  Thanks for the heads up!  I assume you mean swaying towards and away from the player?  I can address that, I just hadn't thought to - so that is very helpful.  Appreciated!

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Re: Mimic's Sister - name TBD
« Reply #38 on: July 26, 2018, 02:02:38 pm »
Add a dancemat and it'll be the mutt's nuts.

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Re: Mimic's Sister - name TBD
« Reply #39 on: August 08, 2018, 01:49:58 am »
Shapeshifter

Yeah.  I think so too.  (Though I did enjoy the suggestions - thanks everyone.)



Meanwhile:  Progress.

The driving section of this cab could really use another coin door in front of the PC.  A friend of mine gave me a Coin Controls over-under coindoor from a Daytona USA, as thanks for some work I did for him.

I don't have the height to be going over-under, and the bottom door was a basket case anyway.



So, I cut it in half.  The top door alone was perfect for my needs.  This poses some interesting challenges, because the doorframe is one piece, and coin doors have a nice flange to hide the hole they mount in.

I cut to the outside of the half I wanted to preserve, and that left me with a fair thickness of metal on the bottom edge.



I clamped the frame up in my little benchtop mill, and made myself a new flange with half the thickness of the lower web.



This shows my angle of attack - I just continued cutting that step I'm making on down, until it was flush with the bottom flange.

Knocking off the remains of the bosses on either side that used to be the lower door frame, reveals my own flange:



It's not as wide, sure, but, any step over at all is enough to help hide the hole it mounts in.

I also did some fiddly inletting to sink a poker button into the coin chute.  Tight fit on these, there's barely enough plastic to make it work.



I made a blanker for the other side, because there's really no two player driving games that this thing is going to run.


To finish up the other coin door, I mixed up some black epoxy putty and filled the excess space to the right of the buttons there, as well.



Both coin doors could use a fresh coat of paint, but, I think they're otherwise ready to go.



I still haven't made any sawdust... but...



SOON

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Re: Mimic's Sister - Shapeshifter
« Reply #40 on: August 12, 2018, 04:25:51 pm »
Ladies and gentlemen, I promised sawdust.  I said those words on the internet, and that's serious business.

By the obligations of honor and my forum title, I am bound - nay, compelled - to deliver.



Behold.  Sawdust.


Ahem, sorry. 

So, anyway, I started fabricating the front box of the pinball half of this thing.



Here's the first bit.  I used a jigsaw, dremel and orbital sander to inlet the coin door hole, I messed up one of the corners (top left, here) - but not worse than the coin door flange covers, so, enh.  Good enough.  The door fits quite well side to side and top to bottom, so the oversize corner isn't much of a problem.

Setting some stuff roughly where it belongs, here's the first mockup;



Actually, I'm lying.  This isn't the first mockup.  The first time I set this stuff together I realized I'd made a math error, the front panel was too wide.  (cough)
Luckily, cutting it down to the correct width gave me a chance to also adjust the centering on the coin door by about 1/16", so it's very centered now.    This is actually the second mockup.

The yellow Sanwa button at the bottom will be recessed behind the plywood, and will be the Exit button for pinball games.



Looking at the thing from a lower angle, you can see how thin the whole front box ends up being.



Considering how much of it is 3/4" plywood, once that's glued and screwed together and the legs are bolted in with 8x 1/2" bolts, I don't think torsional flexibility is going to be a major problem.  This thing should be pretty stiff.  (Heh, heh.  Heh.  Heh.)

There's going to have to be some shallow relief cuts in the inside of the back wall to accommodate the switch housings on the buttons, about 1/8" deep.  You can very much see why the coin door access hatch is necessary for servicing parts, reaching down that slot to the bottom to swap an exit button would be hellish otherwise.

A thing I think is cool about this design is that the legs are outset by their wall thickness both forward and out.  If everything works out as I've planned, you'll see their 1/8" wall thickness like they were traditional L-shaped pinball legs bolted onto the outside of a traditional pinball cabinet. 

I've gotten started on the wiring harness for the front box.



Another interesting detail from this angle is that aluminum plate the exit button is mounted to.  I wanted it removable for servicing without repeatedly moving a screw in wood.  The screw and washer at the bottom never needs removed.  The plate is notched top and bottom, and fits snugly between that screw and the bottom carriage bolt of the coin door.  Remove the nut from the carriage bolt at the top of that plate / bottom of the coin door, and the plate tilts out from under the washer.  That'll mean it can be loaded from the top via the coin door opening when everything's permanently together.

Near the bottom is a 4-button bracket of pinball service buttons I'll be mounting in the box behind the coin door.

(This wiring harness still needs a fair bit of work and looming, it won't be quite this ugly when I'm done.  The door does swing completely open, the wire lengths on the coin buttons are good.) 

But, from the outside -



Kind of starting to look a little like the front of a pinball machine, maybe!  I'm chuffed.

Mike A

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Re: Mimic's Sister - Shapeshifter
« Reply #41 on: August 12, 2018, 04:33:49 pm »
Progress. Nice. :cheers:

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Re: Mimic's Sister - Shapeshifter
« Reply #42 on: August 14, 2018, 10:31:51 am »
Good luck on this one, Laythe. I enjoyed following the Mimic build and look forward to seeing how this one comes together.

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Re: Mimic's Sister - Shapeshifter
« Reply #43 on: August 14, 2018, 11:57:46 pm »
Thanks, guys!

Update without pictures:  I'm redesigning this slightly, after realizing that I am at least slightly an idiot.

See, there's an arm in the middle of this thing that carries the steering wheel, flightstick, throttle, shifter, and PC... and I figured in my scribblings that it had to clear the lower corner of the playfield/main screen TV when it rotates by.  So I found the point that just clears the corner, and decided that's where it'd deploy to, and then made that a design reference line and derived the length of the chair track and the position of the pedals and so on, off of that.

Except that's wrong.   :D

It does have to come out that far to clear that corner... while the TV is rotating.

After the TV has rotated, I could suck that arm back in about 8" closer to the upright TV.  If it locked in place there, instead of at full extension, then I could move the pedals about 8" back under the pinball frame, and shorten the chair rail track that sticks out into the room by about 8", too.  That'd make everything look better.

So, I'm gonna do that.  I've got some scribbling and re-engineering to do.  I may render up another animation illustrating the revised transform sequence.

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Re: Mimic's Sister - Shapeshifter
« Reply #44 on: August 19, 2018, 11:19:37 pm »
I spent some time in the shop this weekend. 

My external overall width on the main cabinet is going to be 25", which not coincidentally means I can use an unmodified widebody lockdown bar.  Since it's the main point of human contact, I figured that having that feel right is important, and I didn't really want to make one.  So I acquired this Williams part.



What I did not know, being a total rookie to pinball machine internals, is that the interface they present to the attachment mechanism is... Interesting.



The other factory parts that mate to this were out of budget, so I decided to adapt.  I took a 2x4 and started carving and inletting.



(In retrospect, I wish I'd been a bit more careful selecting a 2x4 from the piles of stuff in my shop - that knot is going to come back to bite me.) 

I slit in from the ends with a bandsaw so I could cut the pockets for the back tabs, nibbled the curf wider for the front tabs, and used a dremel burr to cut a slot for the front lip.  I was surprised to learn those tabs are all pretty much at 90' to the face - the maybe 6' slope-down that the top face of a lockdown bar has, is not compensated for there - the tabs aren't vertical.

After some sawdust and fiddling, the factory part was starting to talk to my lumber.  (If you know what I mean.  And I don't.)



That's sunk about halfway down; I'll be done when the beer foam gasket compresses against the wood on the back edge.

A lot more work will need done on this piece, but that's the beginnings of the top lid of my ludicrously short front box.  It'll be locked down with a pair of control panel overcenter clamps on the back wall that open through the opened coin door space... if everything goes according to plan.

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Re: Mimic's Sister - Shapeshifter
« Reply #45 on: August 19, 2018, 11:57:06 pm »
I started wiring up the other end of all these cables to the I-PAC Ultimate I/O I'll be using as an encoder, lighting controller, servo motor relay controller and general purpose robotics interface.



In the process, I discovered a problem. 

This yellow Start button - man, look at the light leakage from the white LED behind it!



The degree to which it does not match the yellow Launch Ball button next to it is absolutely untenable.   :cry:  What is this.  I can't even. 

I tore the button apart and swaddled the LED with yellow translucent tape.



Much better.  Now they match:



Crisis averted.  Project salvaged.  I can now proceed.

Though my front box is preposterously shallow - there's a whole 1 1/8 inch in there before you hit the back wall - I thought it would be fun to retain some small bit of simulation.  Since I've got a working coin door, the pinball service buttons should totally be inside it, like this:



To make that work, I had to saw off part of the factory bracket, then fabricate my own adapting bracket that fits inside and gives me four screws into plywood down below.



I've also been working on my wiring runs, it's less messy than it used to be.  I still have a long way to go, though - some of you people on this forum make gratuitously nice wiring harnesses that put me to shame.  This is at least less bad than it was, and I'll be doing a bit more to route it.

I'm also kind of tempted to put some art behind the coin door.  Maybe a photograph of the inside of a real pin.  Or just a wall of solid jumbled quarters. 


Anyway, once I had pinball service buttons, I had to play with them, so I lashed up another mock-up.  It was a chance to hack on the custom front-end software, too... and maybe a chance to sit down in a chair for a while, too.

Here's the custom front-end running in Pinball mode. 



(The white masking tape line on the DMD monitor is the depth mark I plan to sink it to inside the backbox.)

Tables are selected with flipper buttons, they fade in and scale from the sides, the center one is fully opaque and much larger.  The next two games in either direction are visible.

Fake DMD display shows a fake DMD-ified logo, and scrolls DMD-styled instructions along if you don't get the hint.  I'm going to randomize among many Shapeshifter logos every time you go back to the menu, because I think it's charming if a machine named Shapeshifter doesn't stick to one visual theme there.

Pick a table with Launch or Start, and it loads up like so.



I have been tinkering a lot with the backglass configuration.  I am discovering that I am really picky - most vpins seem willing to aspect ratio squish the backglass art, and that drives me up a wall.  I had to add code to my front-end so that it overwrites the B2S resolution settings per table before launching, to allow me to micromanage how every single table on the list works individually.

I'm not using a real DMD because I want to be able to use that space differently in different tables.  Here's where I'm going with it so far:



On tables like Scared Stiff, it's pretty easy - the art fits on the big backglass monitor, the DMD fits on the DMD monitor, that's the straightforward case.  About half the tables turn out like that.

Cirqus Voltaire had the DMD down in the playfield.  I'd like to keep that look.  So for it, and for games that just had no DMD, I've carefully aligned the software position of the DMD panel to be centered, portrait, and below the backglass desktop, and I'm stretching the backglass across it.  It's not perfect, you'll have the bezel lines cutting it, but I like the effect better than blanking the DMD panel out - and especially better than squishing the art.

Whirlwind is an example of a game where the backglass did a good job with 15-segment plasma lights.  They look really nice.  With a lot of careful finicky tinkering I've gotten the segment display to line up nice in the DMD section, and that again keeps the art above at the right aspect ratio.  I lose the status lights below the segment display, but I think I can live with that.

That's about where I am right now. 


(I made the mockup fully playable.  That means I'm doomed, right?)

Mike A

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Re: Mimic's Sister - Shapeshifter
« Reply #46 on: August 20, 2018, 04:40:01 am »
Great work so far.  :cheers:

Ian

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Re: Mimic's Sister - Shapeshifter
« Reply #47 on: August 21, 2018, 05:36:52 am »
I have become obsessed with Pinball this year. The real stuff is now near and dear to my heart. With that said, good luck and try not to sell the farm for mediocre pinball. I am excited about the racing setup, that should be pretty sweet!
Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin to slit throats.

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Re: Mimic's Sister - Shapeshifter
« Reply #48 on: August 21, 2018, 11:19:07 am »
Thanks, Mike!

Short update:

I knew that knot was gonna be trouble.



So I cut it back another 1/4" below flush so I can face the back of it - which is visible from behind when in racing mode - with 1/4" plywood.



Being profiled with that 6' taper angle, it now fits in place like so:



I have become obsessed with Pinball this year. The real stuff is now near and dear to my heart. With that said, good luck and try not to sell the farm for mediocre pinball. I am excited about the racing setup, that should be pretty sweet!

Ian - thanks!  I'd be worried about the overall viability of what I'm chasing, but when Gingerballs made it to Zapcon, I thought it was awesome.  My reaction to it was entirely "I have got to get me one of these", so I figure as long as what I build isn't worse, the result should work for me.  Thanks for speaking your mind, a build thread without commentary is a lonely place.  I'll be getting to the racing side of things soon - this for example will be the bank of view buttons for it:


Ond

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Re: Mimic's Sister - Shapeshifter
« Reply #49 on: August 21, 2018, 04:46:59 pm »
Watching with interest at what's going on here. We need more builders like you mister.
You might think that you're scared, but you're not.  That isn't fear.  That's your sharpness.  That's your power.

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Re: Mimic's Sister - Shapeshifter
« Reply #50 on: August 21, 2018, 11:47:06 pm »
Watching with interest at what's going on here. We need more builders like you mister.

Thank you.  It's good to see you around!  I'll try to make this worth your while.  Please call me out on anything that looks hinky or like a bad idea as I go.

It's kind of funny, but I do have to admit that I'm going to do a better job of priming and surface prep before painting, knowing Ond is watching.

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Re: Mimic's Sister - Shapeshifter
« Reply #51 on: August 22, 2018, 10:22:38 pm »
There is no doubt Laythe has some skill
Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin to slit throats.

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Re: Mimic's Sister - Shapeshifter
« Reply #52 on: August 22, 2018, 10:46:37 pm »
There is no doubt Laythe has some skill

Just watch him play Hard Driviní, the guy is a master!

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Re: Mimic's Sister - Shapeshifter
« Reply #53 on: August 22, 2018, 10:59:08 pm »
There is no doubt Laythe has some skill

Just watch him play Hard Driviní, the guy is a master!

Yeah, I wish we could find him a dedicated one somehow.
***Build what you dig, bro. Build what you dig.***

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Re: Mimic's Sister - Shapeshifter
« Reply #54 on: August 22, 2018, 11:45:22 pm »
There is no doubt Laythe has some skill

Just watch him play Hard Driviní, the guy is a master!

Yeah, I wish we could find him a dedicated one somehow.

Hehehe, thanks.  This thing is designed to run a 90+% accurate Hard Drivin' - that was one of my specifications.  With the clutch, and the 4-position shifter.  I'm not sure I can get force feedback working, but I am sure I can get the steering wheel range right, and I've played on plenty of real dedicated cabinets with busted FF motors before.


Since I've been away from the shop, I've been tinkering on a tiny software detail.

In pinball mode, in the menu to select a table, the pinball DMD panel shows the name of this machine, and a scrolling line of instructions below that.

It occurred to me that given the theme, it'd be kinda neat if every time you boot the machine or come back into that menu the logo were different - just as an easter egg for anyone paying attention.

I've got it working now.  Here's some of the possibilities it can randomly be.



(I see now why Malenko does DMD colorizations - pixel art on this scale is kind of addictively fun.)

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Re: Mimic's Sister - Shapeshifter
« Reply #55 on: August 26, 2018, 07:12:58 am »
Progress update.

First, I skinned 1/4" plywood over that knothole in the lockdown bar assembly.



With a little filler in the corners, at least one of my poor life choices should be relatively well hidden.


Meanwhile...

Ian mentioned an interest in the non-pinball side of this cabinet, so I'll talk about some of that.

A couple years back I got a good deal on a Logitech G25 and shifter because it had no pedals.  Recently, I managed to find a set of G25 pedals alone for sale cheap because they were missing the main base.  Perfect! I was planning on discarding the base anyway.  The G25/G27 pedals are cool for being three individual modular units once you pitch the plastic base.



They normally sit flat to the floor, but the pedal proper can be flipped over on the lever and the whole assembly can be mounted inverted as though hanging under a dash, which I like better.

I propped up a seat at the design height and worked out the angle I wanted them to run at, which turned out to be a 15' forward angle off vertical.  Some research on kit car design, and mocking up tests, got me thinking that 4.5" on centers is about the right spacing.  In my design, the pedals have got to nest under a 8.5" tall moving seat assembly, so I sketched out a frame to hold them that would be 8.25" tall at highest point.  I also wanted to protect the outermost potentiometer a bit - you can see they're kind of swinging in the breeze off the outside of the pedal brackets.

Here's the parts to my frame, and the first round of inletting they needed.



There's four proud screwheads on the back of each bracket, so the back wall needed clearance for those.  I wanted to snug the side panels against the brackets to keep my whole pedal box as compact and out of the way as possible, so there's a lot of inletting on one side to sink the potentiometer and wires, and on both sides to take the nuts and bolts that protrude from the brackets.  Would have been a lot simpler another inch and a half wider, but it also would have been less compact.

Next I mounted some brackets to the back wall, which I had to modify a taper into.  Predrilled for the screws, and put glue on the side walls.



Fun to assemble.  The bracket screws went in first, which have a little wiggle room, and let me square everything up while the glue was still wet.  Then I predrilled the minor diameter holes in the back wall, centered in the bottoms of the major diameter holes I'd predrilled in the sidewalls.  It's more work, but I've really become a fan of pre-drilling things twice, one piece at the major and the other at the minor - it guarantees the screws always do the right thing and get great clamping force instead of stripping the wrong half of the hole or stubbornly bridging a gap.



You can see from the back why the bracket modification was necessary.  Additionally, the cable via I made for the leftmost pedal with the buried pot, to get the wiring through. 

Test assembly showed my initial round of inletting wasn't enough, though.  I had to extend a few relief cuts in various directions once the whole wood frame was assembled.



Here's the end result:



Turned out pretty clean!  The bottom turned out nice and square, it doesn't rock at all on a flat surface.  The side panels try to follow the shape of the brackets along the front, and the brackets tuck tight into the corners.  The setup feels rock solid; it's got the brackets on the back and wood glue along the joints clamped together by 3" screws going into the sides of the backboard.

I'll have to tear it apart at least one more time to prime and paint it, but the pedals can be disassembled from the solid wooden frame despite the two sides of inletting - they rock in on the diagonal.  (As I had to do a few dozen times getting all the clearancing cuts right, heh.)

Here's all the main controls that will be on the Not Vpin side:



I tested the setup for a while in Hard Drivin', and Afterburner.  I'm chuffed!

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Re: Mimic's Sister - Shapeshifter
« Reply #56 on: August 26, 2018, 12:48:00 pm »
Very intriguing, watching with great interest.

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Re: Mimic's Sister - Shapeshifter
« Reply #57 on: August 26, 2018, 01:00:45 pm »
Very cool watching this come together! :applaud:
%Bartop

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Re: Mimic's Sister - Shapeshifter
« Reply #58 on: September 04, 2018, 04:53:00 am »
Bit more progress to share.

Shapeshifter won't be clamping down the lockdown bar like a real pinball machine does, because the full assembly is 1) about $80 and 2) won't fit.  So, instead, I'm using a pair of overcenter control panel latches, like so:



The hooks mount on the lockdown assembly, the clamps mount on the back wall of the absurdly shallow 1 1/8" box. 

For a sense of how tight things get in here, have a look down into the top when the coin door is closed:



The overcenter latches and the coin buttons occupy the same vertical height.  That red line in the circle is showing the actual clearance between the right latch and coin button.  Good times, eh?  They don't touch though.

Man this thing is thin.


Speaking of tight clearances, I want one of the driving-game-mode speakers to be on the backside of the front box.  The speakers I'm using have a mounting depth of 2" under the flange, and I'm putting them into a box with 1 1/8" of interior space.

No problem.



Here's the result of a lot of Dremel work.  Reasonably happy with it, though the burr did get away from me once, I've got a scar in the wood to bondo up later as a result of that accident. 

If the fit looks a little rough, well... that's only a 4" speaker, man, this is a tight close up, the pic is larger than life size. 
And... also, the fit is a little rough.

It was important that the speaker drop sub flush -



because the playfield / windshield monitor assembly is going to be swinging by just above this surface.

So, how does sinking the speaker in like that that possibly work with the total dimensions?  Well, there's also a clearance carved out in the backside of the front panel.



And you can see on the left, the back side of the coin door, showing again how much clearance I tend to have in this thing - that's how much the speaker magnet doesn't hit the coin door frame by.


All this work has the front box frame getting moderately close to assembly.  I think I'm going to shift gears next and work on the back box frame for a while.
« Last Edit: September 06, 2018, 03:07:00 am by Laythe »

Mike A

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Re: Mimic's Sister - Shapeshifter
« Reply #59 on: September 04, 2018, 04:58:47 am »
Nice progress.

You should take a pic of the inside of a regular pin through the coin door opening. Then mount it in yours.

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Re: Mimic's Sister - Shapeshifter
« Reply #60 on: September 04, 2018, 05:29:13 am »
Nice progress.

You should take a pic of the inside of a regular pin through the coin door opening. Then mount it in yours.

Thanks!

Heh, that'd be pretty cool.  I figure it's that, or a correctly scaled picture of a massive pile of quarters.

  
 

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