Questions regarding certain parts of an Arcade.

[Grixis]

Good day to you all.

I have been wanting to make an Arcade for a while now, however how I go at it its certainly confusing concerning certain aspects of the cables.

I already designed the cabinet (Child's Play, I'm an Architect), got the TV (Flat Screen Plasma for personal use. Future projects will go with more traditional squared boxed TV) and I will go with a Pandora's Box for the first round of my custom arcade, so I do not have to deal with Raspberry and making the controls on a board on the first Cabinet.

However, I would love at LEAST some originality and that is to have a power button supply that will turn everything on, from the audio, TV, and board at the same time with just a switch of a button.

It may sound silly to some of the more experienced users here, but for the love of me NO ONE is teaching how to use this:

https://www.amazon.com/URBEST-Module-Switch-Socket-IEC320/dp/B00ME5YAPK/ref=pd_bxgy_21_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00ME5YAPK&pd_rd_r=XEFFF7C5S8NX9J810BTD&pd_rd_w=xoyRq&pd_rd_wg=AwTrM&psc=1&refRID=XEFFF7C5S8NX9J810BTD&dpID=41M3ihJfrpL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail

With a Power Module or whatnot! I want nothing but perfection in everything (Major personality flaw.) so I'm stumped at my inability to understand how that switch works with one of these ;

https://www.amazon.com/WINIT-Switching-Cabinets-Upright-Cocktail/dp/B01C5E8W3K/ref=pd_sim_60_26?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01C5E8W3K&pd_rd_r=X0GM263SDD4MK9CYDWKD&pd_rd_w=jJALu&pd_rd_wg=0txFf&psc=1&refRID=X0GM263SDD4MK9CYDWKD

Any tips? Helpful information? Anything at this point is greatly appreciated.

Cheers,
Max

[Mike A]

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,157363.msg1653319.html#msg1653319

[yotsuya]

Good day to you all.

I have been wanting to make an Arcade for a while now, however how I go at it its certainly confusing concerning certain aspects of the cables.

I already designed the cabinet (Child's Play, I'm an Architect), got the TV (Flat Screen Plasma for personal use. Future projects will go with more traditional squared boxed TV) and I will go with a Pandora's Box for the first round of my custom arcade, so I do not have to deal with Raspberry and making the controls on a board on the first Cabinet.

However, I would love at LEAST some originality and that is to have a power button supply that will turn everything on, from the audio, TV, and board at the same time with just a switch of a button.

It may sound silly to some of the more experienced users here, but for the love of me NO ONE is teaching how to use this:

https://www.amazon.com/URBEST-Module-Switch-Socket-IEC320/dp/B00ME5YAPK/ref=pd_bxgy_21_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00ME5YAPK&pd_rd_r=XEFFF7C5S8NX9J810BTD&pd_rd_w=xoyRq&pd_rd_wg=AwTrM&psc=1&refRID=XEFFF7C5S8NX9J810BTD&dpID=41M3ihJfrpL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail

With a Power Module or whatnot! I want nothing but perfection in everything (Major personality flaw.) so I'm stumped at my inability to understand how that switch works with one of these ;

https://www.amazon.com/WINIT-Switching-Cabinets-Upright-Cocktail/dp/B01C5E8W3K/ref=pd_sim_60_26?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01C5E8W3K&pd_rd_r=X0GM263SDD4MK9CYDWKD&pd_rd_w=jJALu&pd_rd_wg=0txFf&psc=1&refRID=X0GM263SDD4MK9CYDWKD

Any tips? Helpful information? Anything at this point is greatly appreciated.

Cheers,
Max

The switch controls the flow of power to the power supply. It doesn’t do any sort of smart interaction, it’s literally just power on/power off. You’ll run wires from that socket to the AC in lines and FG terminals on the switcher. Commodore Scott will probably soon welcome you aboard the good ship BYOAC and provide you a diagram, so you’ll see how super easy it is. Good luck!

[PL1]

Commodore Scott will probably soon welcome you aboard the good ship BYOAC

Welcome aboard, Grixis.   

It may sound silly to some of the more experienced users here, but for the love of me NO ONE is teaching how to use this:

https://www.amazon.com/URBEST-Module-Switch-Socket-IEC320/dp/B00ME5YAPK/ref=pd_bxgy_21_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00ME5YAPK&pd_rd_r=XEFFF7C5S8NX9J810BTD&pd_rd_w=xoyRq&pd_rd_wg=AwTrM&psc=1&refRID=XEFFF7C5S8NX9J810BTD&dpID=41M3ihJfrpL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail

The IEC power inlet wiring diagrams and info you're looking for are here:

https://web.archive.org/web/20150928061832/http://newwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Wiring#IEC_Fused_Power_Inlet_with_a_Lighted_Switch

These are important considerations when wiring the power connections . . .

1. Clean - Anything like dirt or oil that gets in the way can decrease the amount of connection which will make it harder for current to flow. (increased resistance)

2. Corrosion-free - Same as above.

3. Mechanically-solid - A solid connection decreases resistance by maximizing the amount of surface area contact.

Some people suggest using the "pull method" (hold the wire and pull on the QD) to test if a Quick Disconnect crimp is solid -- if the QD pulls off, re-crimp with a new QD.

I suggest using the "twist method" (hold the wire and try to twist the QD 1/4 turn) -- if the wire turns inside the QD re-crimp the QD.

4. Low-resistance (<2 ohms) - The resistance check is just a final quality control check to make sure that the power wiring connections are all good from the wall socket plug to the power supply.

To do the check:
- Unplug the cab from the wall socket
- Set the power rocker switch to the closed (on) position
- Set your meter to ohms
- Put one lead on the "hot" wall plug prong and the other lead on the power supply "hot/black" terminal.  Check the reading.
- Put one lead on the "neutral" wall plug prong and the other lead on the power supply "neutral/white" terminal.  Check the reading.
- Put one lead on the "ground" wall plug prong and the other lead on the power supply "ground/green" terminal.  Check the reading.

Resistance converts electrical power into heat.

Too much can result in a runaway reaction.

More resistance causes more heat, which leads to more corrosion and/or decreased mechanical contact due to metal expansion, which leads to more resistance that causes more heat . . .

. . . so you can avoid electrical problems like this.

I'm stumped at my inability to understand how that switch works with one of these ;

https://www.amazon.com/WINIT-Switching-Cabinets-Upright-Cocktail/dp/B01C5E8W3K/ref=pd_sim_60_26?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01C5E8W3K&pd_rd_r=X0GM263SDD4MK9CYDWKD&pd_rd_w=jJALu&pd_rd_wg=0txFf&psc=1&refRID=X0GM263SDD4MK9CYDWKD

The missing piece is a modified surge protector/power strip -- cut the power cord like the picture in the wiki.

Here's the power chain:

Wall outlet > IEC power cord > IEC power inlet/switch > surge protector

Plug the monitor, switching power supply*, and anything else that needs AC power into the surge protector.

          * = Use the plug+wire you cut off the surge protector to provide power to the switching power supply. (AC in on lower screws)

The Pandora's Box "CHAMMA" (Chinese JAMMA) harness power wires connect to the upper screws (DC output) on the switching power supply.

There are at least two pins (27 and e) that are different between a standard JAMMA pinout (grounds) and the Pandora's Box. (button 6 inputs)

 


Scott

[Malenko]

. . . so you can avoid electrical problems like this.

Yeap that has probably happen 6 or 7 thousand times on this forum.  Wait no, that's how many times PL1 has posted it, its only actually happened ONCE.

Fear mongering at its finest!

[opt2not]

Arcade: 



Arcade Cabinet:



Which are you building?

[DeLuSioNal29]

DrewTalk just posted this very subject of how to wire the switch on his Youtube channel:

[Mike A]

Arcade: 



Arcade Cabinet:



Which are you building?

I fear we are losing the battle on this one. I hear people using "arcade" to describe an arcade cabinet all the time. It sounds really wrong.

[JudgeRob]

One-button power?  Get a smart power strip. 

Using the switch you posted?  Get a regular power strip.

Using both a switch and a button?  Get a smart power strip.

The wiring part is easy.  Making up your mind is the hard part.

[yotsuya]

Arcade: 



Arcade Cabinet:



Which are you building?

I fear we are losing the battle on this one. I hear people using "arcade" to describe an arcade cabinet all the time. It sounds really wrong.

That battle was lost a long time ago.

[opt2not]

I'm still fighting the good fight, fellas. 

[Nephasth]

My favorite is still "arcade console".

[nexusmtz]

My favorite is still "arcade console".

It's ok, arcade. Everything will look brighter in the morning.

[Malenko]

My favorite is still "arcade console".

Does a consolized Naomi or MVS count? :p /being difficult

[Grixis]

Thank you all for your incredibly helpful answers!

Since I do not know how to quote and reply yet, I will answer some stuff in no particular order;

-I'm building an Arcade Cabinet, custom designed by yours truly, to make an actual playroom with more cabinets and make it feel like a bonafide Arcade. Light guns Included. I dream big. Shush

-I'm trying to learn things such as JAMMA and the like that I see the more experienced builders using. I do not know what JAMMA is, I have not investigated yet, but it seems a more original way of building a Cabinet, at least from where I look at it.

-The reason I'm going with this switch instead of a Smart Power Strip is that I plan on having a Power Strip inside the Cabinet connected to the switch (after looking at the links provided I have a rough idea of how-to now) as such to simulate the one power turn-on of a traditional Cabinet.

Like I said, this one is a personal beast. I'm going to program a PC in order to boot into several emulators and use Dolphin as well with a sensor bar (And DolphinVR is a thing. Yes, you can see where Wii Games + Sensor Bar + Light Gun + VR is going.) In order to have an all-purpose Cabinet. But those add-ons are the fancy shmuck stuff, right now I'm focusing on building the actual working Cabinet with the sticks and my horrid LCD Tv.

Cheers,
Grixis

[Mike A]

If you are going to build multiple cabinets than you don't want an all purpose cabinet. Focus on the games you want to play. Next figure out the control scheme for each game. Then figure out how many cabinets you want to build. You can specialize each cab to play a sub set of the games very well. An all purpose cab will play some games well but many others poorly.

[Grixis]

If you are going to build multiple cabinets than you don't want an all purpose cabinet. Focus on the games you want to play. Next figure out the control scheme for each game. Then figure out how many cabinets you want to build. You can specialize each cab to play a sub set of the games very well. An all purpose cab will play some games well but many others poorly.

Yes yes, but this one is the first, my own lil' baby, one that can do everything for my own use. The other ones can wait and I'll figure it out when I get to them.

[Mike A]

Why does everyone insist on sacrificing game play quality just so the machine can play a bazillion games?
 
You will be happier with the machine if it plays well.

[Malenko]

-I'm trying to learn things such as JAMMA and the like that I see the more experienced builders using. I do not know what JAMMA is, I have not investigated yet, but it seems a more original way of building a Cabinet, at least from where I look at it.

JAMMA is just a wiring standard. It allows you to swap PCBs in a cab so OPs could swap out games in cabinets without having to rewire anything. JAMMA+ is the JAMMA standard PLUS a kick harness, called that because of the "kick buttons" for SFII. the newest version of the JAMMA standard is JVS.

You don't need JAMMA to build a MAME cab at all.

[pbj]

2 players, 6 buttons each, congrats you've covered 99% of arcade games and 100% of what anyone will actually want to play.

[opt2not]

You don't need JAMMA to build a MAME cab at all.

No, definitely not needed. But it's a good idea to use it for any add-ons or changes you want to make to your cabinet, down the line.  Plus if you're using things like an JPAC for interfacing, you'll need JAMMA.

The problem with most builders on this site is that they don't future-proof their "be-all-end-all" "all-in-one" cabinets. Say 5 or 10 years down the line they need to sell their cabinet, for whatever reason, you can open it up to more buyers out there that are looking for a cab to convert, or a 60-in-1. 

JAMMA just gives you a clean standardized way of making changes to your internals. 

[Grixis]

Why does everyone insist on sacrificing game play quality just so the machine can play a bazillion games?
 
You will be happier with the machine if it plays well.

True, But I won't be playing a bazillion games building some complex pc. Im just going to get a 6 button 2 player board plug and play to a TV and build a Cabinet for it. Im talking for the future, adding a small PC (better than a raspberry tho) to play in other emulators such as Dolphin to place Light guns and play HotD.