javeryh's Small-ish Bartop ["Jack Attack!"]

[javeryh]

lookin good.

Thanks.  Baby steps...

That's looking lovely.  Is that tinted glass?  toughened/safety?  How thick?  How far from the monitor screen are you planning on mounting it?

I love the angle of the back, and that it's not dead vertical like mine.  Very sylish and streamlined looking. 

Thanks!  It is tinted glass ("gray glass") and it is tempered as well.  1/8" thick.  There will be about 1/8" between the glass and the screen due to the thickness of the bezel.  I need to figure out how to mount the screen.  It is so light that some heavy duty tape on the back of the bezel will probably be enough.  I'm also planning on adding a panel of some sort stretching from side to side pressing up against it so it won't move... if that makes any sense.

I can't take credit for the angled back although I love the design.  I started out with the plans for grippie's Sega Genesis Bartop and then shrunk it down and tweaked it a little bit to get the design I wanted. 

I really can't wait for the art - I think it is going to look really nice.   

[javeryh]

I started setting up the guts and I hope I'm not in over my head.  I have a million questions on the raspberry pi but the first thing I had to fix was taping the monitor board to the back of the monitor.  As soon as I turned it on, the board heated up and started melting the tape LOL.  After a few minutes I smelled something burning and I was pretty sure it was not supposed to do that.  So now I have to figure out what to do with the board.  I think I have it sorted out but it is going to require making another interior panel that spans the width and holds the monitor on one side pressed up against the bezel and the monitor board on the other side.

I need to make some notes on things to figure out for the Raspberry Pi so ignore the next part unless you have answers!

1.  How do I configure RetroPie to be in 4:3 aspect ratio?  Every image I find online is 16:9.  Yuck.

2.  What emulators do I need for RetroPie to be able to play MAME, Daphne, and other arcade games (CPS, MisfitMAME, etc.)?  How do I install them?

3.  How do I tell RetroPie to trigger the ServoStik based on the game selected and the controls (4-way/8-way)?

4.  Is there a way to merge gamelists so that Pac-Man (on MAME) will appear in the same list as Dragon's Lair (Daphne)?

5.  How do I change the overall resolution of RetroPie?  The display worked but I could tell the resolution settings in RetroPie were off.  I need to force 800x600.

6.  How do I remove the Raspberry Pi boot screen?  I don't want to see the lines of code and the 3 raspberries - I'd like to substitute this with a custom image.

7.  Does the Raspberry Pi provide enough power for marquee LEDs so I can use the USB ports on the Pi (this would help with one button on/off)?

8.  Speaking of one button on/off, I do not want to have to go into the menu and shut down RetroPie every time.  I'll need to figure out how to have the power button run a shutdown script or buy a third party add on.

9.  How do I customize the RetroPie layout (or modify someone else's)?  I'd like to boot straight into the game list that has custom graphics with just the marquee and maybe a video snap of the game in action.

I'm sure there are more but that's it for now.  Jeez I better get going on this.   

[javeryh]

Artwork update!  I'm very happy to say the least.



The artist has finished the side art and marquee and they both look amazing. The only things left to decide are:

• The background and the robot are set to different contrast levels.  The robot is higher contrast so it pops out more.  The artist said that the contrast could be the same for the entire piece but he/she preferred the different contrast as shown.  I agree.
• The number "2007" was added to the robot's chest plate because that was the year my son was born.  Nice touch.  It is removable of course but it is such a subtle detail I think I'm going to keep it.
• I need to decide on the brightness of the green reflection from the laser (see next pic below).  I kind of like the greener version with more reflection to be honest.  I could go either way but the neon green seems to be more "80s" and in line with the overall theme.

I also have to decide whether I want the border or not.  I could also go either way here but I do like the border for some reason.  Also, there are two buildings in the background that go against the profile of the side panel right where it starts to curve and it is much more noticeable in the borderless version.  Or am I just being picky?  I get the sense that the artist likes the borderless version better but my gut tells me the border marries the art to the cabinet better.  Tough call.



I don't think I can go wrong at this point.  The artist said once I've made the decision on the contrast, he/she will color the CP art to match.

Getting so close!  I'm actually bummed out we are going on vacation because I want to finish!  (not really)

 

[JDFan]

What color T-molding are you using -- I think once it is added the sideart will look better without the border and the coloring from the t-molding will actually become the borderwhen looking at it from the side (and having 2 borders might look a bit off ) - So I'd probably go without the border ( Not to mention the harder time it will be making sure you get the border perfectly lined up when installing - otherwise that extra 1/16th of an inch between the border and edge of the cab on the front or back or top or bottom of the cab will drive your OCD self crazy !!  )

[javeryh]

What color T-molding are you using -- I think once it is added the sideart will look better without the border and the coloring from the t-molding will actually become the borderwhen looking at it from the side (and having 2 borders might look a bit off ) - So I'd probably go without the border ( Not to mention the harder time it will be making sure you get the border perfectly lined up when installing - otherwise that extra 1/16th of an inch between the border and edge of the cab on the front or back or top or bottom of the cab will drive your OCD self crazy !!  )

I know.

 

I'm using WHITE t-molding, which is why I wanted a white border.  It will frame the artwork nicely.  Lining up the art with the border is a legitimate concern.  This is the part where I just want to close my eyes and have someone else finish up - I'm too close to it all.  Other than the border, anything else you'd change?

[yamatetsu]

Lining up the art with the border shouldn't be too hard. Have the artist do a small border that is just slightly larger than the board, when applying the artwork fold or bend the artwork around the edges, aligning the straight lines of the larger border with the edges. Clamp one half of the artwork down, apply the other half. Unclamp, apply the rest.

[javeryh]

Lining up the art with the border shouldn't be too hard. Have the artist do a small border that is just slightly larger than the board, when applying the artwork fold or bend the artwork around the edges, aligning the straight lines of the larger border with the edges. Clamp one half of the artwork down, apply the other half. Unclamp, apply the rest.

Good idea.  I'm going to ask for it both ways and print a few test pieces and then make the final call before I order from GameonGrafix.

I think I'm settled on:

1.  High contrast on the robot (to make him pop out of the background more)
2.  Leave the "2007" on the robot
3.  Using the more reflective (greener) version

I'm going to respond to the artist.  I'm still blown away by how good this looks.   

[javeryh]

It's decided.  I like the white border.



The artist is finishing up the control panel overlay so we are super close to completed artwork!   

[Mike A]

That looks freakin' nice. You like that white border as much as I dislike it.

[Malenko]

With the shading, the depth perception of the UFO in front of the white line isn't as bad. The artist did a great job.

[javeryh]

That looks freakin' nice. You like that white border as much as I dislike it.

Haha - yeah, for some reason I've had the border stuck in my head the whole time and seeing it side by side sealed it for me.  Blame krangbrain - his Star Wars upright came out awesome and had a sweet border and once I saw that I had to have it.

With the shading, the depth perception of the UFO in front of the white line isn't as bad. The artist did a great job.

I agree.  I'm VERY impressed with the artist.  Top tier work, reasonable price, communication was fantastic and he/she had tons of patience with my little tweaks.  Would definitely recommend and if I need art for the next cabinet (which is happening) I will try to hire him/her again.

[Mike A]

Would definitely recommend and if I need art for the next CRTcabinet (which is happening) I will try to hire him/her again.

FTFY

[opt2not]

Hmmm, I'm still not sold on the white border, it clutters up the overall look of the bartop, and distracts your eye from the image.  I also still can't unsee the phallic nature of the pose. I think it's because of the position and angle of the gun protruding from the crotch area, and his right hand not being completely clear that he's grabbing onto the hilt.  I also get the sense that the martian is about to fall over rather than take a step.

I would have got the artist to update the pose a bit, making him less leaned over (balancing the body more), and angle the gun differently so the position of his hilt hand isn't at the crotch, or the gun point directly perpendicular from his body.

But of course if you like it that's all that matters. 

[Mike A]

I also still can't unsee the phallic nature of the pose.

You seem to be pretty fixated on his robo junk.

[opt2not]

  well it is fairly girthy.

[javeryh]

LOL - I just don't see it at all.

[krangbrain]

Love it. Border or no border this cab is going to be fantastic. And I like the color of the title. I didn’t at first, but I do now that I see it on the cab.

[Richie_jones]

This Artwork is great...Did you mention who you were working with??

Builds looking nice

[javeryh]

This Artwork is great...Did you mention who you were working with??

Builds looking nice

Thanks!  The artist's name is Rusembell and you can contact him/her here: https://www.deviantart.com/rusembell

Love it. Border or no border this cab is going to be fantastic. And I like the color of the title. I didn’t at first, but I do now that I see it on the cab.

Thanks!  It is coming out nicely - in theory.  I still have plenty of room to screw it up.  It is going to take me forever to figure out how to get the software working properly.  I wish there was room for a PC inside because that would make things so much easier.  I was poking around and there are mini solutions like THIS but I don't really want to sink another $150 into this thing if I can avoid it.

Right now I have a Raspberry Pi 3B+ and a 32GB microSD card that I'm trying to figure out.  I can get RetroPie 4.4 working (bare bones) and add games to it but I don't like how it looks out of the box with all of the menus and options visible and I have no idea how to customize the layout. Also, all of the preset layouts are way too busy for my tastes.  I just want one list of games (for all emulators) with the marquee and either a screen shot or a video snap.  Simple. 

Another thing I don't like is I don't want to have to go to a "shutdown" menu to turn everything off.  With MAME and a front end like MaLa I can use a pushbutton to power the cab on straight to a gamelist and power it off when I'm done (and safely shut down the computer) with no way to access hidden menus and stuff.  With RetroPie there seems to be too many ways for the player to screw up the settings.  I'm probably just cranky because it is new and scary - I'll keep reading up on it.

 

[Jimbo]

You'll get there.  I'm in the same boat.  I've checked youtube out and there are a bunch of videos showing pre-made retropie SD card setups with a nice UI etc.  They usually link to the SD card image in the comments (or you can find them on usenet).  Trouble is, most of them are set up for widescreen 1080p and they have bezel artwork to cover the black-bar areas.  I have a 5:4 dell so I'll need to tweak the hell out of mine and remove the bezel artwork (all so far easy to do via the menus).  There's also a script that you can get the pi to shutdown cleanly by attaching a button to the GPIO pins, but I haven't tried that yet - I just also use the menus atm.

I guess it also depends how many games you want on the bartop... if it's a select few (say 50 or less) then it becomes easier to tailor each one if you need to.

On my bartop I want mame to be used by the arcade controls, but then snes and a few other consoles to be able to use usb controllers (I have 8bitdo ones)... so that's another complication for me that I'll have to overcome.

It's a bit daunting but I think just spending some time with it will make a lot of things clearer. 

[javeryh]

You'll get there.  I'm in the same boat.  I've checked youtube out and there are a bunch of videos showing pre-made retropie SD card setups with a nice UI etc.  They usually link to the SD card image in the comments (or you can find them on usenet).  Trouble is, most of them are set up for widescreen 1080p and they have bezel artwork to cover the black-bar areas.  I have a 5:4 dell so I'll need to tweak the hell out of mine and remove the bezel artwork (all so far easy to do via the menus).  There's also a script that you can get the pi to shutdown cleanly by attaching a button to the GPIO pins, but I haven't tried that yet - I just also use the menus atm.

I guess it also depends how many games you want on the bartop... if it's a select few (say 50 or less) then it becomes easier to tailor each one if you need to.

On my bartop I want mame to be used by the arcade controls, but then snes and a few other consoles to be able to use usb controllers (I have 8bitdo ones)... so that's another complication for me that I'll have to overcome.

It's a bit daunting but I think just spending some time with it will make a lot of things clearer. 

Sounds like we are in exactly the same boat.  I want to do all of the things you mentioned.  One thing that I'm getting stuck on is the layout.  99% of the pi images I've seen are ridiculous with the movies and art and the wheel with all the game names that use the marquee fonts, etc.  It is too much.  I need simple (but not bland).  Ideally, I'd just copy Vidiot's pi set up and somehow change the background slightly and the boot screen.  His is Centipede themed to match his cab otherwise it's perfect.

____________

Got the final CP overlay.  I like it.  It's simple yet goes with the overall theme (remember the buttons and joystick balltop are WHITE). 



Pretty sure the art is done!

EDIT: Actually, I just noticed that the transition between the top and the front needs to be smoother (no line).  The CP is rounded over so any line in this location could look weird depending on where it ends up on the curve.  Not sure how to explain this.

[yamatetsu]

Made a gradient that goes over the front curve. Would work better if the top color of the front piece were a bit darker so that the gradient woundn't be so extreme.

[javeryh]

Made a gradient that goes over the front curve. Would work better if the top color of the front piece were a bit darker so that the gradient woundn't be so extreme.

Thanks - that's exactly what I meant.  I need some margin of error (2-3 mm) because I'm not 100% sure everything is going to line up perfectly.  It should be close though.  A hard line would make any imperfection really stand out if one side was off by even a little bit.

The artist asked what format I want the files in - does it matter?  I want the photoshop file but he said he could send it in TIFF or PNG or whatever too.

[JDFan]

Made a gradient that goes over the front curve. Would work better if the top color of the front piece were a bit darker so that the gradient woundn't be so extreme.

Thanks - that's exactly what I meant.  I need some margin of error (2-3 mm) because I'm not 100% sure everything is going to line up perfectly.  It should be close though.  A hard line would make any imperfection really stand out if one side was off by even a little bit.

The artist asked what format I want the files in - does it matter?  I want the photoshop file but he said he could send it in TIFF or PNG or whatever too.

IF you get the photoshop file with the layers you can always export it to those formats from photoshop (unless you do not have photoshop) - so if you have photoshop no need for the others but if you don't then you'll want whatever format your printer is going to need.

[Malenko]

PSD for sure (for the editable layers), don't know why they couldn't send a PNG or something with it.

[JDFan]

PSD for sure (for the editable layers), don't know why they couldn't send a PNG or something with it.

Hopefully he doesn't flatten the image and/or merge the layers before sending it - in case you later decide to change the control panel layout or something (though it sounds like (S)he is not too concerned over ownership of the file so probably wont happen)

[Malenko]

Agreed that's why I specified with layers lol. Even with the border I gotta say I still like it.

[javeryh]

Thanks guys - I requested the PSD file and also one in PNG format that prints to the proper size - I'm going to use GameOnGrafix and I think they just print what you send so it needs to be right.  I don't know if the PSD will be compressed into one layer - I don't think the artist cares about owning/controlling the finished product it but I'll try and figure that out.  I want the layers separated because I need to make a boot screen somehow for when the cabinet is turned on - I'm thinking the robot or the "Jack Attack!" logo in front of a solid background - something simple that isn't the raspberry pi text/code nonsense that you normally see.

[Malenko]

I'd suggest Ken over game on, he's probably a ton cheaper.  byoacrequests@gmail.com

[Richie_jones]

Personally id avoid the Pi, surely you can fit a mini at or smaller in there.. Are you aware of the XU4 , like the pi but alot more powerfull.  Its in its infancy though with retropie, still works well...

With some clever mounting you could get a small pc in there...

[javeryh]

Personally id avoid the Pi, surely you can fit a mini at or smaller in there.. Are you aware of the XU4 , like the pi but alot more powerfull.  Its in its infancy though with retropie, still works well...

With some clever mounting you could get a small pc in there...

I've gone back and forth in my head a bunch of times.  I think something like a Beelink M1 would fit but I don't really want to spend another $150 on this thing.  Also, I'd still have to take the mini computer apart to get access to the pins for the power button so that would be a pain (maybe).  I don't know.  If anyone knows where I can get a small cheap computer I'd consider it assuming it was powerful enough.

[rave0035]

This is really, really cool.  The artist did a great job.

Nicely done!

[Arimack]

7.  Does the Raspberry Pi provide enough power for marquee LEDs so I can use the USB ports on the Pi (this would help with one button on/off)?

On my build I found that my rasberry pi 2 could not power the USB light I bought directly.  The light flickered the whole time the pi was on. I tried using a powered USB hub to power both as I had one lying around. The light worked but the pi kept flashing the low power icon onscreen.

I ended up buying a 2 USB port power supply instead and plugging my pi into one port and the light in the other. Didn't need the powered USB hub anymore. The white USB cord goes to the light while the black cord goes to the pi. Other two plugs are the monitor and the speakers. You still get the one button switch and its not a big cost increase.

[Ond]

This is great!  Very crisp and fun artwork. Welcome back to building again, you were one of my early idols in the hobby fer sure. 

[FALSE]

Dont know if it's to late for this but you can get the Mars Attacks! font online for free with a quick search. I'm going to be using it on my build. It would look cool on your marquee if that's the look you wanted.

[javeryh]

This is really, really cool.  The artist did a great job.

Nicely done!

Thanks!  I'm quite pleased with how it came out (see below)!

7.  Does the Raspberry Pi provide enough power for marquee LEDs so I can use the USB ports on the Pi (this would help with one button on/off)?

On my build I found that my rasberry pi 2 could not power the USB light I bought directly.  The light flickered the whole time the pi was on. I tried using a powered USB hub to power both as I had one lying around. The light worked but the pi kept flashing the low power icon onscreen.

I ended up buying a 2 USB port power supply instead and plugging my pi into one port and the light in the other. Didn't need the powered USB hub anymore. The white USB cord goes to the light while the black cord goes to the pi. Other two plugs are the monitor and the speakers. You still get the one button switch and its not a big cost increase.

Thanks for the info.  I popped the USB strip into the pi and it seemed to be working OK... I'm not sure at all how I'm going to hook everything up though.  If there was a way to power a motherboard with a tiny power supply I could squeeze inside the cab I might forego the pi altogether.  I've been trying to set everything up and it's not as easy as I had hoped.  I think I'll get there eventually but it is a lot of trial and error.  I am working on a gamelist - if I start there I can work backwards...

This is great!  Very crisp and fun artwork. Welcome back to building again, you were one of my early idols in the hobby fer sure. 

Thanks Ond - I'm glad you are back as well.  Hard to stay away.  Even as I was building my [urlhttp://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,105618.0.html]home theater[/url] the last few years I always wanted to get back to building cabs.  This project was supposed to be a quick one to get back into it but of course with a family and tons of other distractions it never goes how you think it will!

Dont know if it's to late for this but you can get the Mars Attacks! font online for free with a quick search. I'm going to be using it on my build. It would look cool on your marquee if that's the look you wanted.

I saw that - the fonts I found didn't look quite right to me so I initially asked the artist to hand draw it in a similar style but as the project evolved I didn't think that font fit any more.  I can't wait to see what you come up with though!

__________

Alright - after spending the last week in Disney World (awesome time but I'm exhausted) it is time to finish up this project.  While I was away, I got the FINAL artwork files - both PNG and PSD.  Tomorrow at work (ugh) I'll print everything and make sure it all lines up tomorrow night and then it's off to the real printer.  Here is where things ended:









I can't say it enough but I am blown away by how this came out.  What started with a rough idea we were able to fully flesh out over 6-7 weeks of back and forth.  I will not hesitate to use hire this artist again.

I just hope I can do it justice and get this across the finish line.   

[JudgeRob]

Looks really nice dude.  I like the art.  I can't wait to see it printed out on some vinyl! 

[PL1]

If there was a way to power a motherboard with a tiny power supply I could squeeze inside the cab I might forego the pi altogether.

Depending on the motherboard power requirements, a Pico PSU or mini ITX PSU might work.

 


Scott

[TheGreatRedDragon]

That artwork is phenomenal.

[javeryh]

If there was a way to power a motherboard with a tiny power supply I could squeeze inside the cab I might forego the pi altogether.

Depending on the motherboard power requirements, a Pico PSU or mini ITX PSU might work.

Scott

Thanks Scott - I'm going to do some measurements tonight.  I've got an old motherboard lying around that should still be able to run MAME quite well.  The power supply feeding it is huge though.  Not sure I can squeeze it in but it is worth a look.

That artwork is phenomenal.

Thanks!  I hope it looks 1/2 as good once it is applied to the cabinet.  This has been the big road block for me.

What do you guys think about applying the CP art and then drilling out the holes?  Will a Foerstner bit chew up the art completely or can I get a clean cut though the CPO?  I'm trying to figure out how to accurately line everything up - my plan was to line up the art and us an awl to punch a hole through the "+" for each button and the joystick location.  Then using the hole as a starting point for the bit, drill the holes through the CPO and MDF in one shot.  This will guarantee the art will line up perfectly.  If I drill the holes and then try to place the art, being off by even 0.5 mm will be noticeable.  Any ideas?