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| javeryh's Small-ish Bartop ["Jack Attack!"] |
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| firedance:
--- Quote from: J_K_M_A_N on November 29, 2019, 08:17:30 am --- --- Quote from: Mike A on November 28, 2019, 11:27:43 pm ---Ditch the NES. Play NES games on a couch in front of your TV. --- End quote --- I would agree with that. My first bartop, I put everything on there with USB so I could play NES and stuff. I NEVER play it on there. Just get some NES/SNES controllers and another cheaper PI and hook to the TV. J_K_M_A_N --- End quote --- or use a thin client such as https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HP-T5740E-THIN-CLIENT-PSU-POWER-LEAD-4GBF-2GBR-WES-7-RE-FURBISHED/202831630840?epid=1407994547&hash=item2f39b511f8:g:w04AAOSwZp5d3QSI add in a display port to hdmi adapter, install lakka, roms, a couple of cheap snes pads and you're good to go,will happily run 8bit/16bit consoles no trouble :) obviously the thin client i posted above isn't as small as a Pi but there other ones to chose from too :) |
| javeryh:
--- Quote from: PL1 on November 28, 2019, 10:11:12 pm ---You could use a DPST or DPDT switch to switch between "NES Mode" and "Normal Mode". Wire the two poles like this P1B4 input ______/______ Select input P1B5 input ______/______ Start input Switch open (Normal Mode) - All four inputs are separate. Switch closed (NES Mode) - Pressing either P1B4 or Select grounds both inputs, triggering both outputs. NES Emulator ignores P1B4. - Pressing either P1B5 or Start grounds both inputs, triggering both outputs. NES Emulator ignores P1B5. --- End quote --- This is a really good idea but I don't think I want another switch on the cabinet just for a few games. I was hoping for a quick and dirty software solution. Which leads me to my next comment... --- Quote from: J_K_M_A_N on November 29, 2019, 08:17:30 am --- --- Quote from: Mike A on November 28, 2019, 11:27:43 pm ---Ditch the NES. Play NES games on a couch in front of your TV. --- End quote --- I would agree with that. My first bartop, I put everything on there with USB so I could play NES and stuff. I NEVER play it on there. Just get some NES/SNES controllers and another cheaper PI and hook to the TV. --- End quote --- This is probably what I'm going to end up doing. The cabinet has been playable for about a week and I can already tell that the arcade games will get 90% of the play time on this thing. The other 10% believe it or not has been Atari 2600. The other console games like NES, SNES, GBA, etc. just don't seem to work in this format. The games are playable but something feels off. I guess they really were meant for a TV and d-pad. :dunno So with the software side pretty much finished (other than game specific settings) there are only a couple of things left to do: - Finish the dustwasher. I still need to figure out how to print a .psd file to its actual size (without actually owning photoshop lol) so I can print the dutwasher art Arroyo made for me, attach it to the iphone screen protector I bought and then to the clear dustwasher (with the effect being the artwork appearing underneath the 1/16" thick dustwasher). - Wire the ServoStik. Right now the stick is in 8-way mode and the plan was always to use 2 GPIO pins on the pi for the servo and then adding some text to the .cfg files to check for 4-way or 8-way before launching a game. However, it's actually not been a problem playing 4-way games for the most part. I mean, it's not perfect and I can definitely tell the difference but this cabinet is more of a novelty so maybe it's OK that it isn't perfect. I'm going to give it a shot though. - Console/game specific splash screens. I'm not sure if there is a way to do this in Retropie but it would be nice to display an image every time a game is launched showing the controls/buttons used. I have noticed that without some sort of indicator, it isn't clear which buttons you are supposed to press until you start playing, which again, is probably fine. It only takes a minute to figure it out but an instruction card might help and give it an added layer of polish. - T-molding. I've been holding off until I'm reasonably sure I won't have to take off the CP - the little overhang from the t-molding will really make it tough to take apart due to how close fit everything is. Almost there... :cheers: |
| JDFan:
--- Quote from: javeryh on December 01, 2019, 11:52:01 am ---- Finish the dustwasher. I still need to figure out how to print a .psd file to its actual size (without actually owning photoshop lol) so I can print the dutwasher art Arroyo made for me, attach it to the iphone screen protector I bought and then to the clear dustwasher (with the effect being the artwork appearing underneath the 1/16" thick dustwasher). --- End quote --- IF you need the psd file converted to another format ( PDF, PNG, JPG, etc.) upload a copy of it somewhere and send me a link and what format you want it and I'll load it up in Photoshop and save to that format for you - If you know the dust washer size let me know that and I'll check the size also to make sure it is correct. |
| javeryh:
Oh crap what have I done? Since I'm waiting on monitor glass to "finish" the cabaret I have decided to dig this up from the dead and get it across the finish line for good. Lots left to do here. I took everything apart today and I am replacing the iPAC2 with a crappy zero delay encoder for space reasons and also because Retropie and keyboards don't seem to get along as well as I'd like. I'm going to wire it up to behave exactly like an Xbox controller or whatever. I'm also probably going to add some console games because why not - its an abomination with Retropie anyway. I need to figure out how to wire a ServoStik to the zero delay board. There is a connector with 5 pins but I don't have a cable. There is also 4 separate connections and I think I can use this as long as I don't switch the ground wires around. I can't sit still in the house any more so I'm trying to keep busy.... |
| PL1:
--- Quote from: javeryh on February 04, 2021, 08:16:03 pm ---I need to figure out how to wire a ServoStik to the zero delay board. There is a connector with 5 pins but I don't have a cable. There is also 4 separate connections and I think I can use this as long as I don't switch the ground wires around. --- End quote --- There's no polarity to a microswitch so it will work as long as one wire from the 2-pin cable goes on COM and the other on NO. - After that coin door wiring incident, I'm sure you'll double check that it's not on NC. jk :lol Scott |
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