javeryh's Small-ish Bartop ["Jack Attack!"]

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javeryh:
Thanks guys... this may be a bit over my head without seriously delaying completion. It makes sense but I'm not sure it is worth the effort unless there is no way to fit everything otherwise.

I mounted the ipac and raspberry pi on the back door and plugged everything in (except for the button wires that go to the ipac and the servo wires) and I think it's all going to fit without any major headaches. The door closes and I think there is at least some breathing room inside.

I'll post some pics later... gotta go watch Stranger Things with the fam (everyone has seen it except my son so we are bringing him up to speed before Season 3 comes out on the 4th).

javeryh:
Alright here are some more pics from the inside.

I mounted the monitor control strip to the back of the monitor with a small piece of double sided tape. It is easily accessible although I doubt I'll ever need to adjust anything.

The next pic shows how I ended up mounting the ipac and the raspberry pi. I tried placing them in locations where the door would still be able to close and there would be room for cable management. The raspberry pi was a little bit of a pain to mount but ultimately not that big of a deal. I had to use a drill bit to make the mounting holes larger so that screws to the PCB feet I bought would fit. I did this carefully by hand with the drill bit to make sure I wouldn't break anything. I only needed to widen the hole by 1mm or less.

I am also trying to run cables underneath the PCBs so they are out of the way. The braided wire is the power button. I also found a much shorted micro-USB cable to save on space (the blue wire). The 18" HDMI cable I ordered should arrive today (way better than the 6' cable I had laying around).

The next 2 shots show the back of the cabinet with the door closed. On the bottom left I installed the volume knob by securing some ABS plastic to the inside with some superglue and drilling a hole for the knob. The volume can be completely turned off but I'll probably leave it "hot" even when the cabinet is not being used. Overall I'm really happy with how clean the back of the cabinet came out. The hinges aren't too ugly and there is adequate ventilation along with the volume knob and power receptacle.

Next up is wiring the CP. I'm trying to figure out a solution so that I can unplug everything easily - there are 14 inputs (10 buttons + the joystick) plus the 2 wires for the servo motor. Everything will need to be bundled tightly into one wire with some shrink tubing or zip ties otherwise it will be an unholy mess. I'm sure there is some sort of connector out there I can wire everything into that can be easily separated if I need to do maintenance.

Probably not going to get a chance to do anything else until the weekend. We've got baseball games every night the rest of the week (double header tonight). :cheers:

Arroyo:
Looking good Lewis!

Richie_jones:
I've just had very similar issues to yourself trying to cram everything inside. I'd highly recommend using a step down voltage board and only having a 12v supply into your cab.
There really cheap to. Mine was 5 quid off Amazon.
Unfortunately for me I couldn't get rid of speaker interference, and the only way to stop it was having two separate supplys. So I ended up putting 240volts into the cab and having to cram 2 power bricks inside one for the step down voltage board and a separate one to power the amplifier...

Richie_jones:
For wiring the cp you could use an atx extension cable. Cut it in half and wire one side to the ipac and the other to your cp.
Then you have easy disconnect to remove cp when needed.

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