javeryh's Small-ish Bartop ["Jack Attack!"]

[javeryh]

More progress... I cut the monitor bezel and figured out how to hold everything in place.  One of the things I was going back and forth with was whether to spray paint the back of the monitor glass (masking off for the monitor opening) or to actually have some sort of bezel behind the glass.  In the end I opted for the bezel because I didn't think I'd be able to get a crisp enough line around the monitor by masking with painter's tape and spraying. 

I think I found an incredible solution though - I was looking for something sturdy but thin so I thought matte board would be perfect for the job.  I bought a black piece from Michael's (arts and crafts store for non-US folks) but it only came with a white core.  This means that the edges of the matte board would be white, which won't work.  I know they make solid black core matte board but the store didn't sell it normally and a special order for a 2'x4' sheet was going to set me back $70.  No thanks.

On may way out of the store I saw this for $8:



I wasn't sure it would work but I grabbed it anyway.  The matte board here has a solid black core and is twice as thick as the regular stuff (plus I get a pen!).

I did a little measuring and made a test piece out of the black matte board with the white core:



One I did some test fitting and was comfortable that it would work, I traced it onto the thick black core matte board:





Here is how it will look on top of the monitor (with the test piece):



Not bad.  Next up is the installation.   

[javeryh]

I don't think this is too crazy but this is how I plan to keep the monitor in place.

This first pic does not have the monitor bezel in place (you can see the gap for it):



Here's a shot with the monitor bezel in place:



I made the little clips out of a 1/2" x 1/2" strip of wood - same stuff I used for the battons.  I cut a small notch out of the side for the aluminum to slide into.  I'm planning to hold them in place with double sided tape and a screw so I can remove the glass if I have to.  The only thing I haven't worked out yet is how to hold the aluminum bracket to the wood clip.  Maybe some hot glue or super glue?  Not sure yet.  If I need to remove the glass I'd have to take out the aluminum bracket plus the two wood clips on each side as one piece, which seems like it would work but I'm not sure.  The aluminum bar is lined up to be exactly at the end of the CP to make it seamless between the CP and glass.

This is what it will look like once it is installed.  Don't pay attention to the black line that looks like the bottom edge of the bezel - that is actually the back of the cab where the rear door swings open.  The pic make it look like I'm using a 16:9 monitor and I'm installing it WAY off center.  The actual bottom is below that little brown rectangle but really hard to see.





Finally, here's a close-up of the top left corner.  I'm quite pleased.



I still need to drill the screw holes for the clips (as well as the magnets to hold the CP in place).  I'm also still waiting on the next draft of the art but I'm trying to cross some stuff off the list in the meantime.

 

[javeryh]

ARTWORK UPDATE!

The artist was relieved that I went back to the green laser.  He/she thought that was the clear winner.  The changes are being made that I requested but no revised version this time.  Probably not worth the effort since we are basically ready for final coloring.

Here's the next iteration of the CP. 



I really like the style so I don't think it needs anything else.  It is supposed to be somewhat plain but still somewhat interesting design-wise if that makes any sense.  The only thing I need to think about are the colors.  Right now the TOP LEFT is the one that I like best but I might want to tweak it a little.  I do want there to be some consistency along all three pieces and I think there will be once everything is finalized.  Remember - buttons, t-molding and balltop are all WHITE.

Here is the marquee with the colors we decided on and some UFOs added in the corners as requested:



My thoughts on this are that I like it but I think the 2 UFOs should be drawn bigger but behind the lettering so the lettering pops out a little and there can be more detail in the UFOs.  I'm not really sure what else to add to this as I think it is simple and does the job.

Thoughts?

[Mike A]

I like the marquee just the way it is.

[mafiafan123]

Thoughts?   

Probably should just let the artists chime in, but for some reason I see a dark grey/black for the cape to make it stand out.  Other than that I think it looks awesome.

Im really digging it 

[javeryh]

Im really digging it 

Thanks!

I like the marquee just the way it is.

Me too.  I'm slightly concerned about the UFOs being too close to the top edge where the marquee retainer will sit.  I don't want them to get covered even a little bit.  I'm going to ask the artist to slightly shrink the lettering and then move the UFOs down a bit... just in case.

What about the CP?  I'm struggling with the color scheme.  Now I think I like BOTTOM LEFT but without the diagonal stripes (so looking like TOP LEFT).  My main concern is all three pieces colored to compliment each other.  The design aspect ties them together nicely, IMO, just not sure the colors do.

[opt2not]

You could have 1 larger UFO in the middle of Jack Attack.  Perhaps one side of the UFO can be behind the "k" of Jack, while the other side is slightly covering the "A", giving it a 3D effect.  I did a similar thing to my R-type II marquee with the Option pod.

**Edit:  Remember, things don't always need to be symmetrical. Asymmetry is more interesting to look at, while mirroring tends to get glazed over by people.

[yamatetsu]

CP top right.



CP top left.



CP bottom right.



CP bottom left.



I'd say that none of the colors match the side and the marquee, the CP bottom left would be my choice if I absolutely had to pick one.

Regarding the UFO's in the marquee, I would either add some sort of light cone emitting from the UFOs so that they 'highlight' the logo or use one UFO as per opt2not's suggestion.

[javeryh]

You could have 1 larger UFO in the middle of Jack Attack.  Perhaps one side of the UFO can be behind the "k" of Jack, while the other side is slightly covering the "A", giving it a 3D effect.  I did a similar thing to my R-type II marquee with the Option pod.

**Edit:  Remember, things don't always need to be symmetrical. Asymmetry is more interesting to look at, while mirroring tends to get glazed over by people.

Thanks for the advice.  I was actually thinking about asking to place the UFO behind the lettering but much bigger on the LEFT only and eliminating the UFO on the right altogether.  I think overlapping letters, etc. might be too much at this stage - we've gone back and forth many times already.

CP top right.



CP top left.



CP bottom right.



CP bottom left.



I'd say that none of the colors match the side and the marquee, the CP bottom left would be my choice if I absolutely had to pick one.

Regarding the UFO's in the marquee, I would either add some sort of light cone emitting from the UFOs so that they 'highlight' the logo or use one UFO as per opt2not's suggestion.

Thank you for this.  It is so much easier to visualize the whole package.  I am going to ask the artist to redo the colors like this:



Just trying to bring in all the colors we've already used.  Should be easy enough.  I'm also going to ask that the UFO emit light like the side art - great idea.

Thoughts?

[Malenko]

1 UFO on the marquee, keep the one on the "jack side"
Stylize the A to look like the robots face. eyes and nose make the hole in the A, the "mouth grill" makes the bottom part.

[javeryh]

1 UFO on the marquee, keep the one on the "jack side"
Stylize the A to look like the robots face. eyes and nose make the hole in the A, the "mouth grill" makes the bottom part.

I'm going with 1 UFO on the left.  Bigger and behind the lettering with the light coming out of the bottom.  I like the idea of the robot head being the "A" but it might be too late to make that big of a request.

Also, LOL

[Malenko]

I meant the A in attack, and just small subtle changes to make it resemble the roboface

[javeryh]

I meant the A in attack, and just small subtle changes to make it resemble the roboface

d'oh! I understand what you mean now.  Great idea... might as well ask...

[javeryh]

Like this?

[Mike A]

I think at this point you just need to go with your gut and guidance from your artist.

[javeryh]

I think at this point you just need to go with your gut and guidance from your artist.

yeah you are right.  I already responded to the artist:

CONTROL PANEL

- Design is fine,  I'm going with BOTTOM LEFT version (with the diagonal stripes in the background). 
- Change color scheme to match other side art and marquee

MARQUEE

- Make the UFO on the left much bigger and place it BEHIND the lettering
- Remove the UFO on the right
- Add the ray of light coming out of the bottom of the UFO (similar to side art)

I hope to get things finalized tomorrow so I can pay the balance and the artist can begin final coloring.   

[yamatetsu]

IMHO the background color and the stripes should match the sky colors in the marquee, since you will be looking at the CP and the marquee at the same time, so matching those colors makes more sense. As for matching the colors of the small parts to those used in the side art, I doubt that anyone will notice this. Nice touch, but probably too subtle.

[Malenko]

that's the gist, except just the shapes in black. I should have photoshopped it for you but I just didn't have time after work yesterday. I just thought it'd tie the font in a little better with the art. Everything looks great.

EDIT: Got home, photoshopped it quickly. This is a "quick and dirty" so you have a better idea what I meant.

[DaOld Man]

This project is looking great!
How about the robot's head sticking out of the black spot on the A? It will look like hes climbing out of the A. probably not enough room for that.

[javeryh]

IMHO the background color and the stripes should match the sky colors in the marquee, since you will be looking at the CP and the marquee at the same time, so matching those colors makes more sense. As for matching the colors of the small parts to those used in the side art, I doubt that anyone will notice this. Nice touch, but probably too subtle.

You are probably right but I already asked the artist to make the color changes.  I might as well since I think it is a super easy thing to do in Illustrator or Photoshop.  I definitely want the blue background to match the stripes and the background of the CP.  The other colors will just be a nice touch although I think the yellow and orange will really stand out since those are also in the marquee.

EDIT: Got home, photoshopped it quickly. This is a "quick and dirty" so you have a better idea what I meant.

Thanks - that looks pretty cool and definitely ties it to the side art.  However, I think for simplicity's sake I'm going to leave the lettering as is (plus I already responded to the artist and didn't ask for this change )

This project is looking great!
How about the robot's head sticking out of the black spot on the A? It will look like hes climbing out of the A. probably not enough room for that.

Thanks!!  I'm getting anxious to finish it up.  Seems like I have a ton left but there's actually not that much to do once I get the art finalized and applied. 

I only have to drill a few holes for the buttons and then jam everything inside.  Oh yeah, I also have to completely figure out the software side of things and get the ServoStik to talk to the Raspberry Pi and create a custom menu/game list in RetroPie and also learn how to use RetroPie and figure out what emulators I need for arcade games and how to merge everything into one game list.  Damn.

[Mike A]

Well according to the Pi apostles, it is super easy to do all of that. Good luck.

[javeryh]

Well according to the Pi apostles, it is super easy to do all of that. Good luck.

yeah... I'm not too thrilled about going the pi route but I don't think I can squeeze a traditional PC in the cab.  I looked at micro itx and a few other things but it's just too pricey.  If anyone has any ideas I'm definitely open to suggestions.

[Malenko]

Thanks - that looks pretty cool and definitely ties it to the side art.  However, I think for simplicity's sake I'm going to leave the lettering as is (plus I already responded to the artist and didn't ask for this change )

No worries, it was just a suggestion

As for the Pi, I'm less than zero help. My Pi powers the NetDimm in my Multi Naomi2 lol. I'll look for the name of the program when I get home, but it allows you to read/write Ext2/3/4 partitions from windows explorer. Its not free but its like $10 and worth it. I used it for the Multi Naomi and for the Pandora's box hack.

[javeryh]

Thanks - that looks pretty cool and definitely ties it to the side art.  However, I think for simplicity's sake I'm going to leave the lettering as is (plus I already responded to the artist and didn't ask for this change )

No worries, it was just a suggestion

As for the Pi, I'm less than zero help. My Pi powers the NetDimm in my Multi Naomi2 lol. I'll look for the name of the program when I get home, but it allows you to read/write Ext2/3/4 partitions from windows explorer. Its not free but its like $10 and worth it. I used it for the Multi Naomi and for the Pandora's box hack.

I'll definitely look into it.  I'm a complete noob when it comes to the Pi.  I have one that I put a 32GB image on and threw into a NESpi case but that took all of 20 minutes following a YouTube video.  I don't think I actually learned anything.  I did spend another 3 hours getting rid of all the games I'll never play... which could have been all of them since I rarely turn it on.   

________________________

OK... this is it. 



Any last comments before I tell the artist to go ahead with a final coloring?  I really like it all laid out like this and I think each piece works individually as well as with the rest of the art.  This is going to be sweet!!!

[Mike A]

Looks good to me. I will learn to live with the border I guess.

[javeryh]

Looks good to me. I will learn to live with the border I guess.

Border still not 100% happening.  Once it is colored I'm going to ask to see it without border and with border but UFO behind (so only the robot is popping out).

[JDFan]

Looks good to me.

I agree -- Only thing of small concern - are you sure of the visible dimensions on the marquee or is a small p[ortion of the grey area possibly going to show through out of the brackets - Might have him make the scene cover a bit more of the grey area so the scene covers the area above and below instead of having a small line of grey showing just in case. ( from the dark border it looks like top and bottom will have grey showing through unless the dark area is not the visible area marked out.)

[Malenko]

If you're gonna keep the border,  I'd have the left side of the UFO in front of it, and the right side behind it. You could maybe tuck the robot's back leg behind the border too for more force perscpective. But it might look like the robot is tripping over it lol.



I do love the overall aesthetic and the artist did a great job.

[javeryh]

Looks good to me.

I agree -- Only thing of small concern - are you sure of the visible dimensions on the marquee or is a small p[ortion of the grey area possibly going to show through out of the brackets - Might have him make the scene cover a bit more of the grey area so the scene covers the area above and below instead of having a small line of grey showing just in case. ( from the dark border it looks like top and bottom will have grey showing through unless the dark area is not the visible area marked out.)

Yes - the artist should be aware of this but I will remind him/her.  I need everything to bleed over the edges by at least an inch so we don't run into this issue.  It will be hard enough getting the buttons on the CP lined up!

If you're gonna keep the border,  I'd have the left side of the UFO in front of it, and the right side behind it. You could maybe tuck the robot's back leg behind the border too for more force perscpective. But it might look like the robot is tripping over it lol.

I do love the overall aesthetic and the artist did a great job.

Thanks - I'll definitely keep that in mind when I see the final piece.  I think the border is a "layer" in Photoshop or Illustrator so it is easy for the artist to manipulate.

[JDFan]

  It will be hard enough getting the buttons on the CP lined up!

When printing You should have the Button layer hidden so it does not print the grey holes on the actual print but prints the background layer that is currently covered up by them - that way if they do not line up exactly you will not have the hole outline showing. (they are mainly there during production to show what is ideally being covered up by the buttons and as a reference for the layout but should not be printed.)

[javeryh]

  It will be hard enough getting the buttons on the CP lined up!

When printing You should have the Button layer hidden so it does not print the grey holes on the actual print but prints the background layer that is currently covered up by them - that way if they do not line up exactly you will not have the hole outline showing. (they are mainly there during production to show what is ideally being covered up by the buttons and as a reference for the layout but should not be printed.)

Thanks for this.  I asked the artist to:

1.  extend everything by about 1" all the way around so I can trim it back to the MDF after applying it
2.  only print the "+" (center points) for the buttons and fill in the circles with whatever background would be there (I'll use the center points to drill my holes)

That's it.  I'm pretty excited to see how this is all going to come out.

[javeryh]

It's a go.  The artist has started coloring the final pieces but said it might take a week, which is fine.  Today I have a few hours and I'm going to try and finish as much as I can so that all that is left is art and installing all the components.

1.  Install a stop for the back door.  It can be pushed in about 1/2" and I can't have that.  Thinking of using 1/16" black ABS plastic and just gluing it to the lip of the top panel on the inside... unless anyone has any better ideas.  I could add battons to the sides that are held in by screws except I'm afraid that I won't be able to get the monitor glass in and out if I need to.

2.  Install the magnetic catches for the control panel.  Right now there is nothing holding the control panel in place.  I don't think hinges will work because there is no where to put a latch where the CP meets the glass.  I have 3 cabinet door magnets that should hopefully do the trick.

3.  Attach the monitor glass in place.  I know how I want to do this but I haven't drilled the holes for the wood clips I made.  These will be held down with double sided tape and a screw - they have to be removable. 

4.  Solder the speaker wires to the speakers in the marquee area and attach the speaker panel (screws)

5.  Cut piece of posterboard to fit behind marquee and cover with aluminum foil for the speaker light.

6.  Bondo/fill 2 small dents on the cabinet body

I think that's it.  Lots of small stuff.  If I bang through this today I'll start trying to set up the software side of things.  Yikes.

[Mike A]

Nice. It will be good to see this completed.

[javeryh]

#1 - complete!

I had some ABS plastic scraps laying around and they work perfectly.



I cut them into small rectangles and then busted out the crazy glue:



Next, I held the plastic in place on both sides of the cabinet for the recommended 30 seconds.  The overhang is 1/4".





Finished:



Definitely the highlight of the whole project.  Good luck replicating this - it's almost impossible.  The dexterity and ingenuity involved are beyond what the average human can even comprehend.

[javeryh]

#4 complete!

I busted out the soldering iron so I could solder some wires to the speakers.  I had originally snipped the wires in the Amazon Basics speakers I ripped apart so before buttoning up the marquee area I had to solder the wires back on.  I had some leftover 18 gauge wires so I just went with it even though the wires in the speakers are like 100 gauge they are so thin.





I was a little rusty so the first connection point took me a couple of tries.  There was some solder already on the connection from the factory so I heated that up and attached the wire.  Once I had a decent bond, I globbed on (technical term) some more solder to make sure it didn't come apart.





Easy peasy. 

The last thing I had to do was screw the panel to the actual cabinet and holy crap I am going to have carpal tunnel's from this.  There was absolutely no room for any tool to get in there so I had to use a drill bit and manually screw it in.  This took longer than the actual soldering!

Done!



What can I do next? The magnetic catches are giving me fits - I am afraid of getting in the way of a button because the stupid cabinet magnets are so big and I definitely don't want to do that.... I have another idea involving rare earth magnets... stay tuned!

[Mike A]

no magnets. velcro.

[javeryh]

no magnets. velcro.

The thickness of the velcro will throw things off, unfortunately.  That would be easy and I have a roll of the stuff already.

[javeryh]

Next up was getting the monitor glass in place with the black bezel.  What a pain.  I'm not even sure this is going to work.  I think it will but not 100% yet.

What I decided to do was use some wooden clips just screwed in place behind the glass.  Easier said than done.  This required very precise drilling for the screws in order to avoid any gaps or for the glass to be loose.  I also used some double-sided tape in addition to the one screw for each clip for extra strength.  Not sure it matters but it can't hurt.

Here are the clips screwed into place.  The first picture is at the top of the cabinet.  The monitor glass slips up and under the batton that is used to secure the speaker panel and the wood clip holds it in place from behind.  This was the easy one.



On the bottom of the glass, there is no such batton or anything to use to hold the front of the glass in place.  I also had to worry about gravity because there was noting on the bottom for the glass and bezel to rest on.  I decided to use the same aluminum bracket I'm using as a marquee retainer to hold the marquee in place.  It is a 1/2" x 3/4" 'L' bracket sprayed black.  In order to get this to work, I had to cut a 1/16" slot in the wood clip for the 'L' bracket to slide into.  Not sure if you can see it in the picture.



The 'L' bracket is angled to sit flush to the top edge of the control panel.  It seems to be working, however, the 'L' bracket is actually just floating and not secure to the cabinet in any way.  I have not solved this issue yet and the only thing I can think of is to use some super glue inside the slot so that the 'L' bracket would be permanently attached to the wood clips (but not the cabinet body) so that the 'L" bracket would span the width of the cabinet being held in place by the wood clips (which are screwed to the sides of the cabinet as shown).  I think this is the solution but once I bust out the super glue there's no turning back!

Here is a shot of both clips in 1 pic so you can see how it all works (this is obviously done on both sides of the cabinet):



I did manage to stand up the cabinet and take a few pics.  The monitor glass and bezel aren't moving and they seem to be secure (and this is without the super glue):







Tonight I'm going to take care of the marquee light and continue thinking about how to fasten the control panel to the cabinet while still making it removable.   

[Mike A]

lookin good.

[Jimbo]

That's looking lovely.  Is that tinted glass?  toughened/safety?  How thick?  How far from the monitor screen are you planning on mounting it?

I love the angle of the back, and that it's not dead vertical like mine.  Very sylish and streamlined looking.