Main Restorations Software Audio/Jukebox/MP3 Everything Else Buy/Sell/Trade
Project Announcements Monitor/Video GroovyMAME Merit/JVL Touchscreen Meet Up Retail Vendors
Driving & Racing Woodworking Software Support Forums Consoles Project Arcade Reviews
Automated Projects Artwork Frontend Support Forums Pinball Forum Discussion Old Boards
Raspberry Pi & Dev Board controls.dat Linux Miscellaneous Arcade Wiki Discussion Old Archives
Site News

Unread posts | New Replies | Recent posts | Rules | Chatroom | Wiki | File Repository | RSS | Submit news


  

Author Topic: Hantarex Monitor faulty chassis (Dead Flyback and Missing Voltage Regulator)  (Read 667 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

ReitouFox

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 6
  • Why is it so hard to get light guns working?
Hello ArcadeControls

Recently I bought an arcade cabinet which according to the seller failed recently, but was working perfectly before that. Initial inspections revealed signs of the flyback tranformer bursting (and scorching most of the board in the process), one of capacitors has clear bulging and considering the seller mentioned sending the PCB for testing not long before me purchasing it, I'm slightly concerned by the fact one part that I assume is a voltage regulator has been desoldered from the board recently.

As you've probably figured out, I haven't tested it personally, but I didn't see the point in it as it's obviously damaged.

So what I'm hoping to achieve is finding a replacement flyback transformer (at an affordable price), replacing the bad cap and figuring out whether that missing component is necessary.

Okay, I guess it's time for serial numbers:

Chassis:
  • HANTARE MTC 900
  • No 9019 (label cuts off past this point)
  • MZ 07 50144811

Neckboard:
  • ZG 06 50144841
  • HANTAREX

Flyback:
  • MHF023-21
  • M 7Z05
  • ITALIA ELDOR

Monitor:
  • N. 372649

That's all I could make out, if I missed something, please let me know, but just to make it easier, I've uploaded some photos to Imgur, here's the album: https://imgur.com/a/4b1MTnP


Okay I think that's it for now

Thank you so much in advance

Kind regards

D

princess prin prin

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 86
  • intrinsically safe
MTC9000 not 900.

Solder side doesn't look in bad condition. Flyback pads are all there. There is just a lot of flux around them due to desoldering. You can clean it up with alcohol/solvents or some more specific flux remover.

Flyback may be bad but I don't see the bursting you talk about (maybe in the rear?). Replacement is HR7025.

The big cap isn't bulging, it just has a domed plastic insulator on top. Of course all the caps are quite old now and should be replaced anyway.

Missing transistor (TR19 BU801) is in the voltage regulator circuit and it needs to be there.

ReitouFox

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 6
  • Why is it so hard to get light guns working?
Thank you so much for your response Princess Prin Prin

Ah so the label must be mis-printed, it did look like it was missing a number or two.

That's reasuring, I always thought it looked a little burnt, honestly I didn't desolder the flyback either, I would have used a bit more flux, but I'll definitely clean the board up with isopropyl alcohol once I've finished soldering the replacement in.

Sorry about that, I was certain I had gotten the split in one of the photos, but just for future reference, here's what it looks like: https://i.imgur.com/upB2VZj.jpg

You'd have thought they would have just printed that on the flyback, all my searches for "MHF023-21" just came up with expired ebay listings, I'm so glad a company in Ireland sells them, I thought I was going to have to get one imported.

Alright, I haven't really encountered that style of electrolytic capacitor in the past, so I wasn't sure, but I'll take your advice and replace them all anyway (may as well considering Cap kits are pretty cheap).

Okay, I just assumed it was a voltage regulator because it had a heat-spreader marking on the silkscreen, I don't normally mess with transistors as they rarely fail.

I'll get everything together and test the monitor and post the results here.

Thank you so much again for all your help

Kind regards


princess prin prin

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 86
  • intrinsically safe
You'd have thought they would have just printed that on the flyback, all my searches for "MHF023-21" just came up with expired ebay listings, I'm so glad a company in Ireland sells them, I thought I was going to have to get one imported.

The original flyback is made by Eldor (Italian) but the white part is made by Murata (Japanese) and that code is just for that part. The flyback # was on a sticker that fell off.

ReitouFox

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 6
  • Why is it so hard to get light guns working?
Hello again Arcade Controls

I know I said I'd post when I got my cabinet working, but I'm kinda' stumped at the moment.

So the new Flyback, Capacitors and Transistors are now all installed and ready, and I thought to myself "great, now all I have to do is mount the chassis inside the cabinet, resolder the cut wires and I should hopefully have a working monitor", but then I realised, I don't know where to solder the flyback wires to, well, I know the one labeled SCREEN goes to the "G2" spot on the neckboard, and FOCUS somewhere inside the neck socket, but the orientation in the manual doesn't match that on the physical flyback, and considering it's a greyscale image, I can't work it out using colour.

So I'm hoping someone can confirm my suspicion that is, the red wire is G2 SCREEN, and the black is FOCUS, and if so, where should I solder it to?

Oh and just one more small question, I've recently noticed that two pins on the neckboard socket aren't even soldered to anything, I assume this is factory default, considering there isn't any lettering etched into the PCB besides those pins, but it couldn't hurt to ask, right?

Here's four images that I hope will clarify things (I've also added labels to some of the images): https://imgur.com/a/2rGYmwc

You'd have thought they would have just printed that on the flyback, all my searches for "MHF023-21" just came up with expired ebay listings, I'm so glad a company in Ireland sells them, I thought I was going to have to get one imported.

The original flyback is made by Eldor (Italian) but the white part is made by Murata (Japanese) and that code is just for that part. The flyback # was on a sticker that fell off.

Okay, Thank you again for clarifying on the issues I'm having.


Thank you again in advance

Kind regards

princess prin prin

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 86
  • intrinsically safe
I hate that socket and always replace it with a different type.

G2 (red wire) is correct. Focus (black wire) first goes through the hole in the cover and then as in the pic (blue wire as original). Suck the solder off the contact and have the stripped wire go through the hole, then solder from the other side.

princess prin prin

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 86
  • intrinsically safe
G2 wire needs to first go through the hole in the corner as a strain relief (see pic).

ReitouFox

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 6
  • Why is it so hard to get light guns working?
Thank you once again for your rapid responce

Okay, I've just done that, wired up a new plug, set up a faulty Neo-Geo MVS (it outputs an error screen, should be enough right), plugged it in for the first time and... nothing, not even the startup whine.

So I checked the PSU for the JAMMA harness first (because DC voltages), the pins either come back as 0V, or fluctuate sporadically, for instance, 5V sticks within the margin of 0V-2V.

I also checked some of the pins on the CRT PSU, but as I couldn't find a ground (or an identical AC pin), I just touched one of the probes on the metal casing, and I didn't get anything at all, although I swear I got about 1V out of the 128-220V connector (the 128V side if I recall correctly), but chances are that was probably my old multi-meter playing up.

So I have to ask, where do I start, I've tested and repaired ATX PSU's, but this stuff is on another level.

Considering this involves PSU's should this be moved to another topic?

As always, here's some pictures: https://imgur.com/a/K12MUwW

Thank you in advance

Kind regards

princess prin prin

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 86
  • intrinsically safe
The switching PSU that powers the game board has nothing to do with the monitor so let's focus on the monitor here.

The monitor is powered by the isolated stepdown transformer that is connected to the monitor through the 4-colour flat cable. Yellow-orange for 220VAC and red-brown for 130VAC. If you set the meter to AC voltage and don't get anything close to 130VAC on the red-brown wires you need to check the input wires (220VAC) to the transformer and if the input is fused check the fuse. I mean, there isn't much that can go wrong with the transformer, it doesn't have components inside, just wire wound around its core. If 220VAC goes in, 130VAC must come out or it's defective (windings open/broken/corroded) and need to be replaced. Maybe removing the transformer from its current location could help you understand and verify its connections better.

ReitouFox

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 6
  • Why is it so hard to get light guns working?
To be honest I hadn't noticed the fuse in the cabinet until I went through the pictures one more time.

In some vain hope that something would have changed from last night, I went and checked the voltages again, and I was actually getting 138V on the 130 line, which I suspect is well within the tolerable range, so I then went to check the 220v line, and as soon as I did, the multi-meter displayed 1v, then the circuit breaker tripped, cutting out most of the power in my house, so I reset it and returned to testing, I then realised that whatever had just transpired had killed my multi-meter (I had it wired up to a bench PSU because I've run out of 12v batteries, at least that still works). So I can't really do anything right now as I don't have anything to test voltages with, and I'm kinda low on funds at the moment, so it might be a while before I can afford another.

Too be honest, I didn't expect this arcade cabinet was going to cost me this much, and to see little-to-no improvement, it's a little disheartening.

As always, thank you for putting up with me.

Kind regards

adder

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 616
  • Location: Easy St.
you are correct the 2 unsoldered pins on the neckboard socket are fine they are not soldered by default so dont worry about those

you can get a cheap multimeter off ebay it doesnt need special features just a basic one to test voltages and continuity, resistance... only would cost a few dollars

make sure you always look carefully and close at the solder joints and resolder cracked solder joints like in your pic below which i highlighted with a red arrow...

https://s8.postimg.cc/u660mq2h1/pic44.jpg

ReitouFox

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 6
  • Why is it so hard to get light guns working?
Hello.

I'm so sorry for being inactive for so long.

My new multimeter just arrived a few days ago (it's a RICHMETERS RM409B I bought off of Aliexpress in case you were wondering), I went for a slightly more expensive one with additional features because I didn't want to have to buy another one later on down the line.

So I did as you said and touched up all the dry solder joints and tested them for continuity, and they all seem to be solid, so I looked over the board one last time to see if I would just happen to notice something, and wouldn't you know it, one of the bloody fuses is missing (F1 to be exact), so I checked the schematic to find out what it's connected to, turns out it's the only path for the 128V AC, I felt like smashing my face through my worktop, I guess that pretty much explains why it doesn't work, considering 220V AC only connects to the degaussing coil.

I've just ordered a couple of 2A and 3.15A time-delay fuses (F2 tested okay, but may as well, considering they were cheap).

As always thank you all for your help, and I'll be sure to post the results here soon.

Kind regards

Daniel

adder

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Offline Offline
  • Posts: 616
  • Location: Easy St.
cool, yes let us know how u get on  :)

if u need them, there are videos on youtube explaining the various features of multimeters

it's nice to be able to test electrolytic capacitors, cheaper multimeters dont do that

ps. when u put a new fuse in, if it blows straight away u might have a short somewhere....  well anyway, see what happens first with the new fuse before worrying about that  ;D
« Last Edit: July 22, 2018, 09:55:11 pm by adder »

  
 

Sitemap 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31