Power Switch & Power Supply & Surge Protector Wiring

[obizues]

I'm trying to "test" my wiring from my outlet to the power switch that will be plugged into my wall.  Ultimately as long as the switch turning on powers everything up at the same time I am happy.

This is how I "think" it should go based on my research, but I can't seem to find the exact setup that I want:

• Power Switch > Power Supply > Controller / Marquee LED Lights
• Power Switch > Surge Protector > PC / Monitor

What I'm Using:

Power Switch: http://www.hollandcomputers.com/store/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=6137&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&adpos=1o2&scid=scplpRA-PWR-SW-SOCKET&sc_intid=RA-PWR-SW-SOCKET&gclid=Cj0KCQjwlv_XBRDrARIsAH-iRJRojjCX7n8Ad9KOjfqpQMUBxbSm2GsBtvs_1Xnk2t8KljHex5mXhP8aAhcOEALw_wcB
Power Supply: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01C5E8W3K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Power Strip: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TP1C51M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Edit:
Example Video of what I'd like to do for switch to power strip:

Edit #2:
Example of what I want to do for switch to power supply:

So how do I combine the two?!  What am I missing? (Totally new to this wiring stuff)

[PL1]

This is how I "think" it should go based on my research, but I can't seem to find the exact setup that I want:

• Power Switch > Power Supply > Controller / Marquee LED Lights
• Power Switch > Surge Protector > PC / Monitor

Wall outlet > IEC power cord > IEC power inlet/switch > surge protector

Plug the PC, monitor, switching power supply*, and anything else that needs AC power into the surge protector.

          * = Use the plug+wire you cut off the surge protector to provide  power to the switching power supply.

Example Video of what I'd like to do for switch to power strip:

The video only gives part of the info available in the Wiki (backup copy here) and assumes that the rocker switch will always be installed in the same orientation.

When the rocker is turned 180 degrees, the lamp leads -- visible on the black and white "Load" tabs -- are on the other side which causes the lamp to be always on since it is before the switch. (one of the YouTube commenters complains about encountering this problem)

Example of what I want to do for switch to power supply:

1. It shows the power supply wired directly to the switch.

2. If you wire it that way, the lamp will always be lit -- see wiki link and the quote above above for detals.

Totally new to this wiring stuff

Use BYOAC search keyword "IEC" and my username for more details on how to properly wire things and test them ("twist test" and multimeter test) so you don't burn your house down.


Scott

[obizues]

Awesome thanks!  I didn’t even think of running a power cord off the surge protector. 

I’ll read some of your threads today.

[obizues]

Use BYOAC search keyword "IEC" and my username for more details on how to properly wire things and test them ("twist test" and multimeter test) so you don't burn your house down.

I feel like I missing something... I found a post by “MarkyB” that put his wires in the wrong spots so he had a ton of resistance which was melting his IEC...?

Or is that the point?  Triple check you are wiring it correctly?

[PL1]

Use BYOAC search keyword "IEC" and my username for more details on how to properly wire things and test them ("twist test" and multimeter test) so you don't burn your house down.

I feel like I missing something... I found a post by “MarkyB” that put his wires in the wrong spots so he had a ton of resistance which was melting his IEC...?

Or is that the point?  Triple check you are wiring it correctly?

That search narrowed it down to just 13 threads, baby bird -- you need to learn how to find these worms on your own.   

The "twist test" ensures you have a solid mechanical connection -- you don't want a connection to work loose and increase the electrical resistance.

The multimeter test ensures you have a low-resistance electrical connection -- more resistance ==> more heat to dissipate ==> more corrosion ==> more resistance . . .

If you're lucky, you notice the burning smell before it becomes a full-fledged electrical fire and burns your house down.

Be smart.  Learn from Badmouth's close call.




Scott

[BadMouth]

Hey, I wired everything correctly.  I just used an ancient piece of ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- PC power cable instead of buying a new one. 

[PL1]

True and I'm glad you noticed the burning smell before things got any worse.   

Years ago, I was a bit slower on the uptake when a window-unit air conditioner stopped working.

With a gentle pull, the cord, wires, and plug blades slid right out of the molten plug body.   

There was corrosion in the wall socket under the window from a leak that happened before I bought the place.

We both dodged a bullet.   


Scott

[obizues]

The "twist test" ensures you have a solid mechanical connection -- you don't want a connection to work loose and increase the electrical resistance.

Well you’ll love this as well.. I search “twist test”- and although it came with 102 responses, a quick scan shows it mostly about spinners or checking solder. I didn’t find anything referencing a “twist test” involving what you’re referring to.

So I’m going to guess by mechanical and loose being used in your inference it’s to make sure the connection is solid and holding.

[/quote]

[PL1]

You're getting a little better at this, baby bird.

Searching protip: When checking search results, you might want skim the rest of the thread.

Second hit -- scroll up from post #17 to #10.

3. Mechanically-solid - A solid connection decreases resistance by maximizing the amount of surface area contact.

Some people suggest using the "pull method" (hold the wire and pull on the QD) to test if a Quick Disconnect crimp is solid -- if the QD pulls off, re-crimp with a new QD.

I suggest using the "twist method" (hold the wire and try to twist the QD 1/4 turn) -- if the wire turns inside the QD re-crimp the QD.

Scott

[obizues]

Saving for later:

Going through the list mentioned earlier:

1. Clean - Anything like dirt or oil that gets in the way can decrease the amount of connection which will make it harder for current to flow. (increased resistance)

2. Corrosion-free - Same as above.

3. Mechanically-solid - A solid connection decreases resistance by maximizing the amount of surface area contact.

Some people suggest using the "pull method" (hold the wire and pull on the QD) to test if a Quick Disconnect crimp is solid -- if the QD pulls off, re-crimp with a new QD.

I suggest using the "twist method" (hold the wire and try to twist the QD 1/4 turn) -- if the wire turns inside the QD re-crimp the QD.

4. Low-resistance (<2 ohms) - The resistance check is just a final quality control check to make sure that the power wiring connections are all good from the wall socket plug to the power supply.

To do the check:
- Unplug the cab from the wall socket
- Set the power rocker switch to the closed (on) position
- Set your meter to ohms
- Put one lead on the "hot" wall plug prong and the other lead on the power supply "hot/black" terminal.  Check the reading.
- Put one lead on the "neutral" wall plug prong and the other lead on the power supply "neutral/white" terminal.  Check the reading.
- Put one lead on the "ground" wall plug prong and the other lead on the power supply "ground/green" terminal.  Check the reading.

Resistance converts electrical power into heat.

Too much can result in a runaway reaction.

More resistance causes more heat, which leads to more corrosion and/or decreased mechanical contact due to metal expansion, which leads to more resistance that causes more heat . . .

[yotsuya]

Raise your hand if you get what Scott is doing but are still getting creeped out by "baby bird".