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Recapping a Billabs BL27CB0P
the_77x42:
--- Quote from: grantspain on April 15, 2018, 01:19:47 pm ---do you have a photo of the chassis, if its not wei ya then perhaps its a rebranded kortek
--- End quote ---
It's still mounted in the machine. All markings on it are Billabs. The photos of the disassembly are here, maybe those could help?
grantspain:
pretty sure that is a wei ya m2929dc
the_77x42:
--- Quote from: grantspain on April 15, 2018, 06:42:10 pm ---pretty sure that is a wei ya m2929dc
--- End quote ---
That's what I thought as well, but I've been working with Peter at arcadepartsandrepair.com on the cap kit and after going over the M2929 schematic, they are very close (85%), but slightly different.
the_77x42:
About a dozen capacitors in and I have a few general observations:
* Don't attempt to do this without a desoldering tool like the Hakko FR-301. It will be next to impossible for 72 caps.
* Add a small amount of solder to existing joints and the Hakko will perform even better.
* Tin the tip of the desoldering tool between each use to extend tip life.
* After removing the existing cap, apply real RA flux to the pads to make soldering in the new cap a breeze.
* If you're attempting to use desoldering braid on a difficult to reach component, soak the braid in flux first.For this monitor specifically, the hardest thing to desolder so far was the RF shield on the neckboard. I removed as much solder from these small tabs as I could, but in the end I just heated the pad under the board released to get rid of the tiny amount left holding it together. By far the most difficult part to desolder was the tab on the bottom of the shield. I had to crank the desoldering tool up to 500 degrees with the largest tip and leave on the pad for almost ten seconds until the solder underneath the tab melted.
The VGA board was a cinch and the neckboard is almost done. I will post again when I begin the mainboard.
the_77x42:
I decided against removing the flyback from the mainboard. It's a finicky operation since it's attached to a large heatsink. To support the board while it's upside down, I used an empty box and carboard shims to raise and level the heatsinks at either side of the board. The weight of the heatsinks is enough to snap the board if only one end is picked up, so I'm very careful to use my hand and forearm to support the whole board as I flip it over. My method is to desolder at least four of five caps before flipping the board over, minimizing handling time.
The large capacitors are actually easier to desolder than the small ones. I would recommend desoldering those your first time. I used a voltmeter to check the voltage of the caps and held a 10K resistor to them if any charge was left.
In some of the pictures you can see the nasty, yellow factory glue used to keep the caps in place. I had initially researched removing the glue using IPA (isopropyl alcohol), but after speaking with Peter, his suggestion was to just leave it. After desoldering the cap, it easily detaches from the glue just by carefully twisting and rocking it around.
Next up is the B+ filter and reassembly!
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