Happ trackball plug direct into Ipac Ultimate?

[gutterstuff]

I've been cursing this trackball thinking that the x and y boards were broken, but after looking on Andy's site, it says that his track balls can connect directly to the board, but it says nothing about generic ones.

Does any anyone know if I'm just doing it wrong, or if 3" happs need to use the mouse hack or optiwiz to have the trackball recognized by Windows.

Thanks

[PL1]

I've been cursing this trackball thinking that the x and y boards were broken, but after looking on Andy's site, it says that his track balls can connect directly to the board, but it says nothing about generic ones.

Does any anyone know if I'm just doing it wrong, or if 3" happs need to use the mouse hack or optiwiz to have the trackball recognized by Windows.

This is the same trackball and Ultimate I/O as your other thread here, right?

1. Did you wire the 5v, ground, and data lines as outlined in the other thread?

2. Do all four of the data lines alternate between logic high and low when you slowly turn the related axis?
-- If even one of the four data lines works, the Windows cursor should wobble back-and-forth one step.


Scott

[gutterstuff]

Thanks for the reply, and the reminder for the past thread. It's been so long that I forgot even asking!

I made a custom wiring harness using LED 4 wires and attachments and connected them to each of the 8 on the 2 trackball harnesses (5v, G, X1, X2) , (5v, G, Y1, Y2) then attached them all directly to the ipac in the corresponding way.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B47_awmRPEGFdnB4QklidnFieHhkanFnaHdzQ19ZVWJxQ1VV

X and Y 1 and 2 may be reversed, so I'll go and fiddle with those shortly. I'm not seeing any indication of movement by the cursor onscreen though, which leads me to believe that something else is up. I turn on the pins via the ipac, and all other buttons are functioning well. Could it be that my green boards are mucked up? If they are, do you know if those are sold individually?

Thanks again for your help

[AndyWarne]

It should work, even if the signal pairs are swapped.

As Scott says above, if you have a multimeter you can check the voltage on the X and Y wires, when connected. It should be approx 5 or zero depending on whether the light path is blocked or open, by the spoked wheel.

[PL1]

X and Y 1 and 2 may be reversed, so I'll go and fiddle with those shortly. I'm not seeing any indication of movement by the cursor onscreen though, which leads me to believe that something else is up.

You are correct that something else is up.

If the problem was that the data lines were reversed, the mouse cursor would be moving backward.
i.e. Move the trackball left ==> the cursor moves right.

Could it be that my green boards are mucked up? If they are, do you know if those are sold individually?

It is possible that the boards are bad.

To check:
1. Set your multimeter to Volts DC.
2. Connect the black lead to ground.
3. Touch the red lead to the 5v line -- the meter should read 5v.
4. Connect the red lead to one of the data lines.
5. When you slowly move the axis, you should see the data line alternate between logic high (near 5v) and logic low. (near 0v)
If you move too fast, the data line will change between high and low before the meter can take a reading.
6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 with the other data lines.

If a data line is stuck high or low, you'll need to replace the old green board(s) -- preferably with new red boards.

There are a number of vendors that sell them.

Do a forum search ("search" button at top of page) for my posts containing "A052-1011-00" -- there will be some good vendor links in there.   


Scott

[bperkins01]

I have the Happ 2 1/4" trackball set up and working with the Ultimate I/O card.
https://na.suzohapp.com/products/trackballs/56-5500-11



Hopefully you can see the wiring pinouts - If not I can take a better pic.
I have the crimping tool so I wired directly to the Dupont connectors to go onto the board.
Works great.

[gutterstuff]

Nice work, and thanks for the input. After testing the wires and the boards for consistency, it's totally the boards that have the problem. So much for saving a few bucks by buying a refurb

This forum is super helpful -- thanks to all of you.

[gutterstuff]

Just an update -- I took the advice of folks here and on reddit, and and used a multimeter to test both the consistency of the wires and whether or not any current was travelling through the boards.

One board actually began working for me, and during the tests, showed that all wires delivered current, and did not have any breaks in the line (phew!)

The other one however showed that the 5V connector, despite being connected to current delivering wires, did not show that it was receiving power. After swapping out the boards with each other, I determined that my Ipac is fine, and that it's the board that the re-seller (strangely) didn't label with a sticker saying 'ok'.

Just wondering -- is it possible to swap out the green boards with these red ones that I've been seeing around?

Thanks again!!

[PL1]

Just wondering -- is it possible to swap out the green boards with these red ones that I've been seeing around?

As mentioned earlier in this thread, YES!

The new and improved "red board" P/N A052-1011-00 is a replacement for the obsolete green board P/N A052-1010-00.

Might as well replace both boards while you're at it.


Scott