Thanks guys! It ended up coming out pretty much how I wanted it to, so I am happy about that. I didn't take a lot of pictures while I was working on it, so unfortunately I don't have much of a build log to provide, but I can give some details since some of you seem interested.
Woodworking
The cabinet itself is built from 3/4" plywood (I don't really like working with MDF). Probably my biggest regret is that the plywood I ended up using had a really open grain and I had to spend too much time filling and smoothing it before painting. The legs and frame around the bezel are solid 3/4" maple, and I used 1/4" plywood for the back of the top section. The control panel is 3/4" maple plywood.
Since there are so many angled cuts on the lower cabinet (the front and sides all slope out 3 degrees from the base and the CP slopes 5 degrees from the front to the back section), I found it easiest to use a circular saw and sawboard to cut these pieces. That let me draw the layout of each piece right on it and then just put the sawboard along the lines and cut. I used pocket screws and glue to join the base pieces together, then re-enforced the joints with 3/4" square battens on the inside to give it a little more strength. On the outside, I used Bondo to cover the end grain of the plywood and the joints and make things look seamless.
The feet were made by gluing 2 3/4" pieces of solid maple together on their face, then veenering the edges to hide the joints. I did spend some time working out the best way to connect these to the base. I couldn't figure an easy way to connect them from the foot up into the base and keep the fastners hidden. Going down from inside the base was also a challange since I wanted them right up against the edge of the front panel, and the feet were only twice the thickness of the panel itself. I don't know if this will make sense without a picture, but I ended up using a forstner bit and a little jig I worked up to drill out a rounded portion of the front and back panels above where the legs attach. This allowed me to drill a hole centered on the middle of the leg and use a 1/2 lag bolt to attach each one.
The Control Panel is two separate pieces, the flat back section and the sloped front section. Both are made with 3/4" maple plywood, with the thickness doubled around the permiter with another 2" wide piece of 3/4". The edges were then covered with maple veneer to make it look solid. The back section is pocket screwed and glued to the base, while the sloped front section is held on with 3 control panel latches so it can be removed if necessary. I routed out areas for the joysticks on the back, and also used a router and circle jig to cut the hole for the trackball. Two coats of gloss poly were put down, then I applied the vinyl decals I had printed and covered them with two more coats of poly to protect them.
The middle section seemed like a good spot for the speakers, so I routed out holes for them using the How to route a Nintendo speaker grill guide that I found on this site (thanks Johnrt!). I stapled a square of black burlap behind each one as a grill cloth, then attached a 5" speaker. This section is glued and screwed to the back CP section.
The top section is mostly just the 4 sides. On the back side, I routed out a 1/4" deep, 1/2" wide channel around the edge, which let's the 1/4" thick plywood back fit down in. This is attached around the edge with screws and can be removed to access the monitor. The front wood frame is made from 1 1/2" wide maple. I used a router to round over the outer side, and put a 45 degree bevel on the inside to make a more interesting profile. Like the CP and feet, it was covered in gloss poly. It was then attached with pocket screws and glue. There is a 1/4 inch lip around the inside, which serves to hold the glass for the bezel in place. There are 4 bolts through the bottom of the top section into T-nuts on the middle section, which allow the top section to be easily removed for transport. Holes were also routed through the top base and the back CP section to allow cables to be routed between the top and bottom sections. I was lucky that I was able to use the metal portion (with some modification) of the existing monitor stand to mount it, and didn't need to build some kind of custom mount. It's just screwed in and can be removed quickly to take the monitor out for transport.