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Author Topic: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.  (Read 13247 times)

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bperkins01

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #80 on: April 01, 2018, 10:13:24 am »
Thanks 'DaOld Man'  - I like your Jukeboxes...  I will be adding some of that software to my cabinet.

Great day of wiring and getting things in place.  I started with the marquee LED strips.  These turned out to be pretty simple - I had never worked them before and it looked like they could be a pain to solder. 

I cut off a the smallest section of the strip, put a little solder ball on each pad a then soldered a lead wire into it.  It was as easy as the YouTube video made it look. 



My marquee with strips in place ready for connecting wires.



All  lit up and ready to go.  I may need some diffuser material to flatten out the pattern depending on how it looks behind the marquee.



Here is how I decided to power the cabinet - there are a few 12V items (LED strips, AMP, reject button bulbs) - much simpler to connect them to terminal blocks.  The arcade power supply mounted next to the strip kept everything pretty compact.



I borrowed this Velcro strip idea from someone in the forum (Flynn's Arcade maybe?)  its a great way to manage wires and create pathways.  I ran out of it..  Need to get more to finish cleaning up the cabinet.



A few more wires getting into position on the 12v terminal blocks.



Upper speakers in place - I filled the compartment with insulation and closed it up.  The small amplifier works  quite well.  The best place to put it was right behind the monitor and above the PC. 



The top parts in place for the last time (hopefully).  Cooling fans are under these grates, but they are a little louder than I expected.  So they will stay unplugged until I determine if they are actually needed - or maybe I can find a temperature sensing controller that can spin them up at a variable speed as the cabinet heats up..  The hand holds are working out really nice..  Glad I saw these on someones page.



Here is where I am at the moment - Still need to attach the toe kick and clean up a few items.  I'll be in a bit of a holding pattern for a while until all of the artwork is finalized and gets printed up. 

As for the sound - I connected the amp directly to my iPhone and ran some songs off my playlist to get the levels balanced out etc..  For an arcade cabinet - this box sounds really good.  People said that the subwoofer would need a port so that it didn't sound muted..  I put my hand over the hole where the speaker wire came out and there was a steady breeze - pretty cool.  I did cut a hole in the front to let it breath just a bit more and the bass is reasonable.  I'll mess with it more once the whole thing is enclosed.  Audio off of the iPhone is way better than expected. 

Audio from the PC is not not right yet.  There is background hiss and other noise that makes no sense..  Its certainly coming from the PC since everything is identical except the source.



While I wait on the control panel artwork - I'll start getting the software set up to auto boot, remote access, etc..  clean the shop - what a mess once you get wiring..

(more to come...)
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Drnick

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #81 on: April 01, 2018, 01:25:12 pm »
Audio from the PC is not not right yet.  There is background hiss and other noise that makes no sense..  Its certainly coming from the PC since everything is identical except the source.

While I wait on the control panel artwork - I'll start getting the software set up to auto boot, remote access, etc..  clean the shop - what a mess once you get wiring..

(more to come...)

Sounds like you have a ground loop somewhere,  Are you powering the amp from the PC or the separate PSU,  I had a similar problem and the resolution was to run the Amp from a separate psu.  Also are you running your audio connection next to power?  Ideally should be run as far from power as possible.

jennifer

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #82 on: April 02, 2018, 01:44:48 am »

bperkins01

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #83 on: April 02, 2018, 08:14:46 am »
Thanks for the audio help.   Drnick - the AMP is connected to the Arcade PS..
I would think some external source is not causing the noise...  simply moving the headphone jack from the iPhone to the PC is the only difference between no hiss and some background noise.

The PC seems to have *smart* headphone jack inputs..  When you plug in the amplifier - it can sense it - it then asks me what I plugged in..
Headphones, surround speakers and a few other options. Its something to do with that - I haven't worked through all of the settings to see if one is better than the other..  Do they still even make sound cards?  Maybe a cheapo one of them with get it if I don't figure it out.  :)
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Drnick

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #84 on: April 02, 2018, 06:59:50 pm »
Yeah they still make cheap soundcards, they also do usb soundcards nowadays, didn't realise the little adapter in a NUC I recently got was a USB soundcard till I took a closer look at it.  Designed to look like a valve tube. Funny looking thing. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Maplin-Audio-Transparent-Vacuum-Stereo/dp/B00QS3QKNE

rave0035

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #85 on: April 02, 2018, 08:21:40 pm »
Could still be a ground loop issue.  You don't have the same issue when you use the iPhone since it doesn't share a ground with the amp.

Try plugging the PC into another outlet and see if it solves any issues.  If it does, there are inexpensive solutions.

Mike
You can't truly know how something works until you've ruined it by taking it apart.

bperkins01

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #86 on: April 03, 2018, 09:01:52 am »
Thanks for the lead rave0035.  I plugged the arcade power supply into a different circuit - still some of the same noise sadly.. 
Turns out sound cards are under $20..  I will play with settings and stuff a bit more to see if I can find any additional clues..  then probably pick up a card.
Its relatively minor - I just hate that type of issue.
thanks!
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jennifer

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bperkins01

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #88 on: April 03, 2018, 12:35:53 pm »
Hi jennifer -

Sorry I did not respond sooner  :dizzy:  I read through the link and I *think* I understand..  I may be able to put some sort of filter on the speaker lines that are just under the marquee (they are coaxial) that (I'm assuming) blocks above a certain frequency?  (20K?)
They are certainly inexpensive enough to try..

Am I on the right track?
thanks for your help..
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jennifer

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #89 on: April 03, 2018, 12:43:06 pm »
Well kinda....Basically you loop your speaker wire around (the round ones anyway) And the magnet changes the phase to be out of sync with your noise.

wp34

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #90 on: April 03, 2018, 12:44:09 pm »
That some nice clean mounting and wiring inside your cabinet.   I especially like how you mounted your PC.   :cheers:

Is that cap just screwed in?

bperkins01

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #91 on: April 03, 2018, 01:27:26 pm »
Thx jennifer - I will do some more reading on it.  Plenty of time to mess with it while I do other things..

wp34 - yes - the PC is sitting on the shelf and the cap is a very snug fit.  No screws into the PC..  Just three into the cabinet side to hold the cap on.  It is very tightly in place.

I didn't want the PC on the floor of the cab to (hopefully) reduce the amount of dust it sucks in.. and the access is easier to the ports, etc..
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Ian

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #92 on: April 03, 2018, 03:53:27 pm »
Make sure you get a high quality marquee material... otherwise those led's will wash that marquee right out.
Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin to slit throats.

bperkins01

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #93 on: April 03, 2018, 04:18:34 pm »
Thanks Ian -
   I'm a little worried about that.  I want to find some diffuser material to flatten that light out - maybe an old flat screen TV at the dump and cut the LED diffuser out.

I have them covered with cardboard right now - when I fire the cabinet up - they are a little blinding.

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barrymossel

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #94 on: April 04, 2018, 10:46:21 am »
Thanks Ian -
   I'm a little worried about that.  I want to find some diffuser material to flatten that light out - maybe an old flat screen TV at the dump and cut the LED diffuser out.

I have them covered with cardboard right now - when I fire the cabinet up - they are a little blinding.
Maybe something like this? https://www.plexiglas-shop.com/GB/en/plexiglas-led/fuer-hinterleuchtung-fgs06f3a5ma.html?tx=7zylw5x7mcm

bperkins01

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #95 on: April 12, 2018, 04:01:26 pm »
Not much new to report - stalled a bit until the artwork for the CP is completed.
I've been doing software work - learning to program AutoHotkey so that things work the way I'd like..  But I have a way to go on it..  my coding skills are rusty to say the least.

I did solve my crappy sound problem.
Inexpensive SoundBlaster card - bypassed the internal one - no more noise..

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bad_boo

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #96 on: April 26, 2018, 01:48:01 pm »
it is getting so nice. Can't wait to see when you are done with your CP.

One question, How did you install the acrylic sheet in front of the screen? or if you could show a picture of it?

bperkins01

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #97 on: April 26, 2018, 02:26:52 pm »
Thanks - I got the first completed CP image today - I need to do a test print and see what may need to change.

I used tempered glass for the screen

In this picture you can see a dado all the way around where the glass and bezel are inset.

I do not have any pictures of the cabinet going together - but basically - lay a side panel on a table - install the parts that connect the sides - then slip in the glass, bezel - then lock it together with the opposite side..  There is a bit of giggling and messing around to get it all assembled.  But I had done it a few times at that point.

Hope to get the CP started soon  :)
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bad_boo

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #98 on: April 26, 2018, 03:33:23 pm »
oh I see.
So you had the store to cut it for you then. I was reading that some people prefer glass over plexi, as it looks better.
I am considering it too.

Thanks for your reply, hope everything works for you with the CP art
« Last Edit: April 26, 2018, 03:35:30 pm by bad_boo »

bperkins01

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #99 on: April 26, 2018, 03:35:09 pm »
Well... Tempered glass is a little different.  It is tough and strong.  But they don't cut it.. It is 'made to order'.
So you need to be 100% sure you have the size right..  its pretty expensive stuff to make a mistake with ..
that said - this one is worth it.. smoked grey 1/4" glass..  looks great!
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Drnick

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #100 on: April 26, 2018, 03:42:04 pm »
Well... Tempered glass is a little different.  It is tough and strong.  But they don't cut it.. It is 'made to order'.
So you need to be 100% sure you have the size right..  its pretty expensive stuff to make a mistake with ..
that said - this one is worth it.. smoked grey 1/4" glass..  looks great!

Gotta agree on the Tempered/Smoked grey glass.  I tried a piece of perspex/plexi in front of the monitor on mine and it looked like a pile of steamin meadow muffin compared to glass.  Make sure to get the edges rounded off too :)

bad_boo

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #101 on: April 26, 2018, 04:05:28 pm »
I tried a quote online at this website:
https://www.onedayglass.com/

I got a quote of $46 + shipping (I don't know how much it would be to Canada) with these settings:
Type: Tempered Glass
Shape: Square/Rectangle
Thickness: 1/4"
Tint: Clear
Edgework: Seamed Edge
Width: 40"
Height: 26"

I don't find it that expensive, unless I am quoting the wrong thing lol

« Last Edit: April 26, 2018, 04:07:47 pm by bad_boo »

bad_boo

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #102 on: April 26, 2018, 04:06:46 pm »
---

bperkins01

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #103 on: April 26, 2018, 04:08:28 pm »
I tried a quote online at this website:
https://www.onedayglass.com/

I got a quote of $46 (+ shipping and taxes) with this settings:
Type: Tempered Glass
Shape: Square/Rectangle
Thickness: 1/4"
Tint: Clear
Edgework: Seamed Edge
Width: 40"
Height: 26"

I don't find it that expensive, unless I am quoting the wrong thing lol
Well if that is true   I paid too much [emoji4]


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bperkins01

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #104 on: May 03, 2018, 09:45:53 am »
Its been a while since the last update.  I've been hesitant to cut the control panel too shape until I received the overlay artwork.   Now is the time to cut and test the shape.  I received the preliminary artwork and printed it at Staples.  Based on what I have - I can at least cut the outer shape so I'm not looking at a square CP blank on my cabinet.

Below you can see the underside of the CP and some 1/8" hardboard.  Since I'm using the router table - I just duplicated the entire panel by double stick tape, trim close and then using a pattern bit with a bearing - cut the template out.



I like using 1/8" hardboard because it is very easy to create fair curves.  You can get very picky about the shapes w/o ruining expensive plywood.   One of the reasons for all the extra work is because of the curved face to the control panel box.  There are two curved lines.  The inner one follows the face of the box, the one at the edge is for a 1" overhang.  Drawing that line is simple - find a 1" block of wood and slide it along the face of the CP box with a pencil.



Here are a few steps shown at the same time.

First I lined up the template stock and taped it in place - it's set back the depth of the curve.  Using a compass I made a bunch of semi-circles along the length of the curve I'm trying to duplicate.  Next I use a flexible strip of wood and connect all of the tops of the semi-circles.  Use as few weights to hold the curve as you can so you do not end up with lumps.  The wood strip will make a nice fair curve if you let it.  Then draw the line to cut too...



Here is a better view of it.  This is the second try actually - I didn't like my first attempt. (as seen opposite of the side I'm working on)  The shaping is a bit finicky if you are working toward a fair curve.  My artwork will have some boarder lines that will follow this curve.  The lines were drawn from my Sketchup drawings.  I'm really just trying to make the CP as close to my plans as I can so that everything looks right.  Shaping this curve should match the line on the underside of the CP.  My goal is to try to split the pencil line drawn on the bottom of the CP.



My next step is to take my curve template and create a single pattern for the final CP.  The arrows show the two curved parts that are the shape I wanted.   Everything else is waste.  I use the tablesaw fence to keep things squared up and I have a piece of 1/4" hardboard (scrap in my case) to copy the curves too for the final template.

To get the final shape - I double stick taped the curve template in position, trim then finish at the router table.  Then I flipped it over and did the opposite side so I perfectly mirror the shape left to right.  The I re-positioned to get the opposite corners and flipped again to mirror.    Basically I flipped and moved the pattern 4 times to get all of the shapes duplicated to the 1/4" hardboard.  My original plan was to make this one the template all at once.  But it turned into a pain..  Much easier to just make the curves you want and reuse them on another piece of material to get the final as shape.



My hardboard template is completed and double stick taped onto the actual CP.  My pencil lines on the back match perfect.



Quick pre-trim with a bandsaw and then finish with the router table.  Another reason to use a pattern and a router trim bit at the table is you get perfectly square edges for the T-Molding.  No gaps or weird shapes to contend with.



The best part is down the road if I decide to change the CP - I can make a new blank in about 10 minutes with this template.   The leading edge mirrors the curve of the CP box and the artwork for the CP matches the shape.

Here is a preview of the marquee..  I had the CP and marquee printed up at Staples.  Both need some minor changes.  Here the font is just a bit too big - so it needs to be shrunken a bit. 

More importantly - the CP is now the right shape.  I'm going to wait for the final overlay to be completed before drilling holes for the trackball & buttons. 



(more to come...)

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JudgeRob

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #105 on: May 03, 2018, 05:06:47 pm »
Nice, solid build.  I wish my interior was so organized.  Now you get to do the CP!  Fun stuff, but now your OCD really gets to take over.  FYI, you'll be stoked to play your Spotify or Youtube music videos or whatever though this.  I agree with the sub.  Your's isn't too big to get in the way.

bperkins01

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #106 on: May 03, 2018, 09:21:37 pm »
Thanks JudgeRob,

I got all the stuff for a cool CP interior - the crimpers - Dupont connectors  -etc.  Hopefully I can keep it neat in there..
We'll see.   Waiting on one more revision and then off to the printers!
thx
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JudgeRob

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #107 on: May 03, 2018, 10:07:11 pm »
What medium are you printing on?  Vinyl?

bperkins01

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #108 on: May 04, 2018, 08:40:18 am »
Hi JudgeRob,

I want to print on the thick vinyl with the textured surface.  i.e.  Same as commercial machines.  I've done some research but I'm open to suggestions on this.  I have a flush mount plate for the trackball and I plan to sand it smooth and fill the seam so that the surface is flat as I can get it.

I haven't found if there is a specific way to cut it around openings so they don't look like hack jobs...  But I'm sure someone has a great way to do that.
thx
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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #109 on: May 04, 2018, 09:46:12 am »
I haven't found if there is a specific way to cut it around openings so they don't look like hack jobs.
EMDB rough-cut most of the hole then used a router flush-trim bit.

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,130690.msg1425323.html#msg1425323



Make sure the bottom of the base of your router is clean and smooth to avoid scratching the artwork.

If it isn't smooth, use some adhesive felt patches on the base to protect the artwork.


Scott

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #110 on: May 04, 2018, 09:52:11 am »
Just cut the vinyl with an X-acto knife. Same results. Much easier.

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #111 on: May 04, 2018, 03:38:59 pm »
Thanks guys

I have a spiral bit I bet will work perfect. :)
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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #112 on: May 06, 2018, 11:20:04 pm »
Thatís a great looking cabinet!  Looking forward to updates.  :applaud:

bperkins01

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #113 on: May 19, 2018, 08:18:10 am »
Making some forward progress again.

Artwork completed and printed.  I had Game On Grafix  print the marquee and the CP overlay.  Their Ultimate package prints directly onto plexiglass with a white diffusion layer.  I recommend getting the extra layer of plexi to go over the marquee.  It is printed on top of the glass - not behind it..  So you still need a sandwich of plexi to get it all right.



Leave the paper on until you have everything fit or course.  I'm mounting my marquee a bit non-traditionally.  The speaker panel is at an angle and there wasn't a good way to get a retainer bent and all of the plastic variants of retainers were too short.  My solution is 1" x 1/16" aluminium angle stock that I picked up at the hardware store.  Top piece is simple since it was at 90 deg.  If you look close - I'm screwing the marquee directly to the cabinet using #6 sheet metal screws.



Here is the clever part.. For the lower retainer - I cut one side to 1/8" to match the thickness of the plexi layers.  Tape the aluminum to a guide so you can slide the whole thing through slowly and let the blade do all the work.  The feather board will keep everything in place so that there are no mishaps with saw blades and metal!




Here is the lower retainer: The thin edge covers the marquee, fits flush against the speaker panel and covers the screws.  The bottom retainer will be double stick taped in place.  The upper retainer gets a couple screws on the top of the cabinet.



Someone mentioned that I had WAY too much backlighting and my marquee would be washed out..  That's 100% correct.  I'll be reducing the LEDs down to 2 strands and toning this down a lot!
My Arcade Build and other projects here:
https://bperkins.wordpress.com/

eds1275

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #114 on: May 19, 2018, 10:54:50 am »
I did a quick read through and forgive me if I missed it, but why the name Lakeside? Is it going at a lake house? Do you live by a lake? Fond lake memories? Silent Hill's Lakeside Amusement Park?

bperkins01

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #115 on: May 19, 2018, 01:53:01 pm »
All good answers - it originally started as a way to play Centipede since I only seem to come across broken machines..  It evolved over time.
But yes - its final destination will be at a lake house (The CP will have a bit of a nautical theme too..)
Its been a learn as you go project..
I'll be happy to get the CP all wired up and get to some software setup..
My Arcade Build and other projects here:
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Mike A

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #116 on: May 19, 2018, 05:10:59 pm »
All the Centipede machines must have ended up within 50 miles of my house. Craigslist is overflowing with them. A Centipede cocktail is one of the first machines I bought.

Ian

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #117 on: May 20, 2018, 04:20:57 pm »
All the Centipede machines must have ended up within 50 miles of my house. Craigslist is overflowing with them. A Centipede cocktail is one of the first machines I bought.

I second that! Those things pop up every other week it seems.
Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin to slit throats.

Ian

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #118 on: May 20, 2018, 06:16:26 pm »
All good answers - it originally started as a way to play Centipede since I only seem to come across broken machines..  It evolved over time.
But yes - its final destination will be at a lake house (The CP will have a bit of a nautical theme too..)
Its been a learn as you go project..
I'll be happy to get the CP all wired up and get to some software setup..

If this will be a nautical theme ditch that marquee, the artwork isn't working for me. It just reads "Cave man". Not nautical.
Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin to slit throats.

bperkins01

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #119 on: May 27, 2018, 09:27:26 am »
Small update - I've been a little slow on the project lately because of the day job and because I don't want to mess this part up and do it twice.

My overlay has a design that needs to be aligned to the control panel so that its border lines are spaced evenly all the way around.  (Will be shown later)..  All of that is dependent on the trackball being positioned at the correct spot.    I spent some time checking the artwork against the CP blank to be sure it all lines up so that the center of the trackball is positioned in the artwork properly.  Lots of checking and cross checking - then I'd wait and check a different way later..  just to force myself not to rush.  Hopefully that prevents expensive mistakes.

Step 1 was making a template for the trackball mounting plate.  My plan is to recess it into the control panel and sand it all smooth and cover it with the artwork.  Hopefully none of it will imprint/show through the overlay - that's the plan anyway..

Creating templates using an Inlay Router Set is pretty well documented.  The way I did it was I created a 12 x 12 blank from 1/4" hardboard and created a cross pattern and a center point on it.  Next I bolted the Trackball mounting plate from Twisted Quarter to the hardboard.   You can see the 'X' and '+' pattern that got the plate centered here after I cut the template.



Using the router & inlay kit (without the bushing attached) I copied the shape of the mounting plate to the hardboard resulting in the picture above.  The large outer template is the now the right size to route the recess in the control panel when using the added bushing. 

The inner template is larger that the mounting plate because of the router bushing.  I used a pattern bit on the router table to duplicate the shape of the plate exactly onto this piece.    The reason for this is more about neatness (for you OCD freaks!)  than anything else..



To create the opening for the actual trackball - you could cut it out - cover it with the plate and be done with it..  I expect I'll be opening the CP a lot to show people the innards.  So for me neatness counts.  I'm using the small piece to make a pattern to cut the inner opening. 

Using the router table/fence/stop blocks - I cut the template to a 5/8" width all the way around.  It made for a snug fit for the trackball.  You also get drill guide holes for the mounting plate as a positive side effect.



Back to the mounting plate recess.  I double stick taped the template to the CP and used the inlay bit to route the perimeter of the recess. 



With that done - I removed the template and flattened out the inside portion of the recessed area.  You can see some test cuts in the center waste to make sure I got the depth right before routing the edges.



Now the easy part.  Cut out the center waste area and mount the inner template..  It should fit perfectly as a match to the mounting plate.



Then clean it up with a pattern bit.



Finally - drop the mounting plate in. 




My current task is to determine how to align the CP overlay to the panel after all the holes are drilled.. I haven't come up with a good way to align it since all of my 'alignment points'  will be drilled out..  If that makes sense...

(more to come..)

My Arcade Build and other projects here:
https://bperkins.wordpress.com/

  
 

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