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Author Topic: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.  (Read 16403 times)

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bperkins01

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New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« on: January 08, 2018, 02:39:26 pm »
Project Name:  Lakeside Arcade

I've spent the better part of the last 8 months planning and collecting components to build my own cabinet.  Finally I got around to completing my design and completing another project before getting to building my cab. 

My final revisions to the Sketchup plans were focused on trying to eliminate some oddball measurements where I could and creating a design that I could build a cabinet that could be disassembled if needed using threaded inserts, etc.




I made a rookie mistake and didn't take that final step of creating a cutlist style layout in Sketchup.  Had I done this - I would have easily fit both side panels on a single sheet of plywood..  I trimmed the height first and ended up needing to cut into a second sheet. DUH!


Here is a side panel all set up - Sketchup measurements made it all simple to do and even though I had specific angles for the control panel and screen angle - I was able to plot points and just connect dots to make it all work.  I did double check them however..

First panel completed.  I used the plunge saw for the majority of the straight cuts and the jigsaw to get close to the curves.  Then I cleaned them all up to fair lines with a drum sander, rasp and block plane to get it as clean as possible.



Making the second panel is ultra-simple.  Trace the original in pencil, cut outside the line with a jigsaw and double stick tape them together.  Using a pattern bit (spiral down cut is best for this) - just duplicate it with a router.  Less than 10 minutes on the second panel.




I want a clean bezel to side panel joint - using the plunge router and guide fence let me add this detail.



I see many questions on the forums on cutting large circles.  The best way is to get the Jasper circle jigs for your router and cut them that way..  It is a clean,  simple cut and you can cut many size circles.  Big hole saws are clumsy and expensive by comparison.  The have a small hole and large hole version..  Worth every penny.



Power jack added



Part of my philosophy is to create a 'kit'.  Get all of the panel blanks built up and labeled..  then customize them as needed..



Here are the top panels getting fit into place.  The are going into threaded inserts that are in blocks glued to the side panels.. 



Bottom panels with a vent holes in the rear and a 7" hole for a subwoofer.  My cab will have jukebox mode and the amp should have enough smarts to break out a little bit of bass (I hope!)



First assembly with enough parts to make it cabinet shaped.



It is a bit wobbly at this point - I think a few more components and the CP design will stiffen it up nicely once it is all build up.



more to come...

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wp34

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #1 on: January 08, 2018, 05:38:43 pm »
Cabinet looks good so far. 

I've never tried pattern-routing a panel that big with a router table.  How does that compare to using a hand router?

You have a very nice looking workshop.  This does not seem like your first woodworking rodeo.  Keep the pics coming.   :cheers:

yotsuya

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #2 on: January 08, 2018, 05:50:59 pm »
Cabinet looks good so far. 

I've never tried pattern-routing a panel that big with a router table.  How does that compare to using a hand router?

You have a very nice looking workshop.  This does not seem like your first woodworking rodeo.  Keep the pics coming.   :cheers:

Its not a table, hes using a jig.
***Build what you dig, bro. Build what you dig.***

bperkins01

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #3 on: January 08, 2018, 06:15:09 pm »
It's actually a router table insert off of the extension on my table saw.  Which made it easier.  I would have done it freehand if I didn't have a large surface like that..
Woodworking is the 'relatively' easy part. 
The items I've spent time on is CP layout and ergonomics.. 
and I'm no artist either - there are so many creative cabinets out there..  I just want mine to look acceptable.
I'll be going Pro for side and CP graphics.. 
Thanks!
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wp34

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #4 on: January 08, 2018, 06:39:15 pm »
I was asking about this picture.  Looks like he is copying the second side using a router table.  Hadn't seen that done before.



Cabinet looks good so far. 

I've never tried pattern-routing a panel that big with a router table.  How does that compare to using a hand router?

You have a very nice looking workshop.  This does not seem like your first woodworking rodeo.  Keep the pics coming.   :cheers:

Its not a table, hes using a jig.

wp34

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #5 on: January 08, 2018, 06:41:01 pm »
You have skills and this should be a fun project to watch. 

I would suggest you host your pictures on the BYOAC site.  We have had a lot of project threads destroyed when third party hosting went away.

yotsuya

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #6 on: January 08, 2018, 07:26:06 pm »
I was asking about this picture.  Looks like he is copying the second side using a router table.  Hadn't seen that done before.



Cabinet looks good so far. 

I've never tried pattern-routing a panel that big with a router table.  How does that compare to using a hand router?

You have a very nice looking workshop.  This does not seem like your first woodworking rodeo.  Keep the pics coming.   :cheers:

Its not a table, hes using a jig.

Ok, I see that now. Wow, yer right!! :cheers:
***Build what you dig, bro. Build what you dig.***

bperkins01

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #7 on: January 09, 2018, 09:08:41 am »
I've always liked threads with lots of pics.. So I'll keep adding them.  If anyone ever wants more detail - let me know.  I have a lot of woodworking experience and happy to help.

Last night I got a couple of small items done.

Rear panel blocking with threaded inserts already in place..



I added the upper back panel in place.  Its not necessary to have a nice tight fitting miter joint..  but it certainly looks nice.



The marquee shelf went together quickly.  I'm using a 15 deg tilt for the monitor.



I've been using my table saw as a bench.  The actual bench is covered with other parts.  The easy way to line up the shelf is to clamp a straight edge in place..



Here are the threaded inserts..  Best way to make the holes is to use a 3/8" Forstner bit to drill a clean hole.  Then screw them in..



10-24 Machine screws with finish washers hold the shelf in place.  I drilled the  holes in the shelf at 1/4"  to allow for some adjustment.  Its nearly impossible to line the holes up perfectly otherwise.



This stiffened it up a little bit.. 



I can't seem to figure out how to save the pictures to the forum and use them - If someone points me in the right direction I will do that.
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yamatetsu

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #8 on: January 09, 2018, 09:50:36 am »
In 'project announcements' there is the NOT A PROJECT III - Thread for Posting Images to Link in our project threads - sticky. Post a reply in that thread, go to 'Attachments and other options', you can attach up to 8 pics. After that, you can use the links to the pics in your thread.

To post a pic, click on the leftmost button in the second row



and insert the link.



                  

bperkins01

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #9 on: January 10, 2018, 08:51:38 am »
Tonight I added more holes to the cabinet.  Below is a closeup of the hole jig for the router.  It will cut any size hole in 1/16" increments up from 1".  Drill a 1/8" hole and insert the pivot pin... 

To cut the hole - align the pin on the jig to the correct diameter - plunge and cut the hole. 



I saw a cabinet that had hand holds for tilting and rolling the case.  They cost under $10 and I figured it was a simple addition.




The speakers I chose came with a gift!  They had the perfect sized trim rings that I could use as a template to cut out the speaker holes.  I aligned them per my plans



Before cutting them out on the router table - I removed the center to make less work for the router bit.



Perfect oval ..



I still need to decide if I will use grills or speaker fabric over the whole panel.  These are very middle of the road speakers ($54)   -  I'm certain they will play Mame games just fine.   If I have an ok background music jukebox mode, that will be an added bonus.  Or maybe some more modern games with bigger sound at some point.

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wp34

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #10 on: January 10, 2018, 09:37:30 am »
Those handles will come in handy.  They are nice for tipping the cabinet backwards.

You are making me want to get a router table.   :cheers:

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #11 on: January 10, 2018, 09:42:43 pm »
Loving this build!  Oh how I envy you guys with these nice shops.  All I had for my build was a 12v drill, cheap circular saw, and a hand router. Lol

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #12 on: January 11, 2018, 06:33:20 am »
That is pretty much all you need to build an arcade machine.

bperkins01

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #13 on: January 11, 2018, 12:13:54 pm »
Thanks - and I agree.  Having a nice shop is not a requirement for this type of construction, but it makes things faster and more accurate in a lot of ways.
A drill, router, circular saw would be the minimum.. 
a jig saw would be a huge help too.

I'll keep pics coming as I make progress - I've always appreciated when others puts many pics.  I've copied plenty of ideas from them.
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bperkins01

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #14 on: January 14, 2018, 06:45:40 pm »
Made some more progress over the last couple days.

My plan all along was to box & insulate the speakers.  Here I added rails and a back panel to enclose the top coaxial speakers.



A box within a box.



Same plan for the subwoofer (also quite inexpensive)



Simple 12 x 12 x 4 box over it.  They will get wired and insulated during final assembly.



My next task was to create a bezel for the monitor (32" LCD)..  I was able to gently pop off the bezel for the monitor itself.  This will allow it to mate up flush to the 1/2" MDF I'm using in the cabinet.



The plan was simple - draw the line on the MDF blank that I needed - precut with a jig saw - the finish cutting on the router table using a fence to get it straight.



Here you see the fence on the left - cutting a straight line.. and...



The router bit grabbed because I was going against the cutter direction and pulled right through the bezel...  ok  .. Now I'll do it the right way..  after a trip to the Depot to buy another 2x4x1/2" MDF.



This time I double stick taped guide blocks to the (new) cutout.



Then used the pattern bit to follow the guide to get my opening..



Since I was able to get the bezel off of the LCD - I wanted my bezel to have a little bit of angle on the opening..  I had a 14deg dovetail bit. 

I'm doing the exact thing that caused the first MDF failure - using the fence and trying not to accidentally pull the work into the bit..  Howver - I'm taking off much less material with the dovetail bit.  I'm making sure the piece can't lift with the feather board..  and.. I'm routing in the proper direction with the bit.
I started in a corner, started the router and lowered the bit down to get the cut profile.



I was very careful to keep it tight against the fence and create the profile.



Then you have to stop in the corner, turn the router off, move the fence, turn the piece to the new side against the fence and repeat for all 4 sides.



The color is off for some reason - I used some blocking and mounted the monitor directly to the bezel and connected the PC to it..  I'll be painting it black and covering with a smoked tempered glass..   



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bperkins01

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #15 on: January 21, 2018, 09:39:22 am »
I suppose at this point of the project - this thread could be in the woodworking forum - but I'll keep going here.  ;)

Ive started working on the control panel box.  It is a standard design except I wanted to add one nice (but unnecessary detail) of a curved front.  The curve will match the leading edge of the CP itself.  To be sure to make it symmetrical I made a template out of 1/4″ hardboard scrap.  It is one side of the curve of the inside of the front curved component.  That piece will be made of laminated 1/8″ plywood.



First step is to make a form to bend the plywood on..  I have some scrap 3/4″ particle board.  Double stick tape the pattern to the board aligned at the center..



Then I trimmed close to the pattern with the band saw and finished the first side with the pattern bit at the router table.



Next, flip the pattern and cut the opposite site perfectly symmetrical form.



After the first one the remainder are simple.  Screw the next blank to the first pattern, trim close with the bandsaw (or jig saw).  The complete with the pattern bit on the router table.



Repeat..



A stack of 6 gives me the form I need to mold the front panel.



Hopefully I get to glue up the lamination later today.
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wp34

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #16 on: January 21, 2018, 05:41:39 pm »
Okay this is interesting.  I'm curious what comes next with that curve.

bperkins01

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #17 on: January 22, 2018, 09:43:44 pm »
Today's update:  Gluing up my curved control panel front.
Disclaimer: The curved front is just a little something I wanted to do to break up a boxy cabinet a bit..  It can be done with clamps very easily.  I've done a lot of vacuum veneer work and had all of the stuff to do it this way.


I double stick taped the form to an old laminated shelf. There is a center line on the form and on the four 1/8" planks to help me line them all up.  The plastic can be any type really..  best if duct tape sticks to it.  I got as much of the setup staged as I could before gluing up the planks.



The whole purpose of this step is to make my own piece of curved plywood.

Here are the planks - To laminate curved wood - you need to use a glue that dries hard.  Regular wood glue is very soft and the boards will slip over time.   A thin coating with a foam roller on the mating surfaces is all it takes.



I missed a few pics in between because my gloves were covered in epoxy.  The 4 planks were centered and tacked in place at the centerline with a couple finish nails.  That keeps everything from sliding around.   Then I covered the whole thing with some nylon fabric and some plastic screen..  Epoxy will not stick to the fabric and that way I do not glue the screen to the plywood.  The screen give the air an exit path to the vacuum pump.

The remainder of the plastic vacuum 'bag' is taped down.  You want the plastic to be as loose as possible so there is no bridging of gaps..  every little corner wants to be sucked in as best as you can get it..



Here is the curved front piece being clamped onto the form with vacuum.  Why do it this way?  The gauge shows 25hg, which is approx 12 psi.    These planks are 5"x32" (or 160 sq inches)..  12 psi x 160 = 1,920 pounds of total clamping pressure in the exact shape of my curved control panel front.  Can this be done with regular clamps?  Absolutely..  Vacuum just does a much better job.  Plus - I had all of the equipment from other projects.



A quick video showing the pump getting turned on:

Control Panel vacuum clamping video

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wp34

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #18 on: January 23, 2018, 09:52:55 am »
Thanks for posting that video.  I've seen pictures of that method before but never a video.

bperkins01

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #19 on: January 23, 2018, 09:34:28 pm »
Thanks wp34 -
I'm not going to get to work on it until next week.

More to come  :)
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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #20 on: January 28, 2018, 06:12:23 pm »
This is impressive.  Thanks for being so thorough in documenting... it's a fun thread to follow. 

As others have said, nice shop.  A well-lit, organized place to work makes these kinds of projects go faster and, frankly, make them more fun.  These threads always make me wish I wasn't so terrible at woodworking! 

Mike
You can't truly know how something works until you've ruined it by taking it apart.

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #21 on: January 29, 2018, 01:48:48 pm »
 
This is impressive.  Thanks for being so thorough in documenting... it's a fun thread to follow. 

As others have said, nice shop.  A well-lit, organized place to work makes these kinds of projects go faster and, frankly, make them more fun.  These threads always make me wish I wasn't so terrible at woodworking! 

Mike
   Its not the shop that makes it fun or easy, woodworking is a skill , something you learn from as you do it getting better with time.... What your looking at here is somebody who is not only afraid to buy the right tools for the job, but obviously likes quality....Love the Delta, little jealous ::)   
« Last Edit: January 29, 2018, 01:53:47 pm by jennifer »

bperkins01

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #22 on: January 29, 2018, 11:21:31 pm »
Thanks for all the kind words  :) 
I worked part time at a woodworking store for a number of years - they had a fantastic employee discount.

I finally got to work on my cabinet again this evening

The curved front came out pretty nice.  I ran the bottom edge across the jointer to clean it up and trimmed the ends to fit inside the CP box.  Using the form I vacuumed it on to cut the ends made it real simple.  I used the table saw miter gauge and trimmed each end so that it fit tight on the ends.  Here it is a still tall.. cutting it so the control panel will lay flat along the entire curved face is tricky.



Here is how I did it..  I screwed a couple of stop blocks to the exact width of the CP box (31" in my case)  onto a piece of scrap plywood.  The idea is to keep the curved piece from flattening out and changing the cut.. 

This shot is after the cut, the blade tilted and the flat side up against the fence..

One (what turned out to be) a small screwup here..  I had the blade tiled to 12 degrees which is the angle the box sides meet the back face of the curved part..  It SHOULD have been tilted to 5 degrees, the angle of the down slope of the control panel...

The outcome was that the curved panel met the underside of the control panel tight at the ends and had a 1/8" gap in the center - NOT what I wanted!  After being a bit angry at myself for the mistake - the solution turned out to be quite simple.  I re-adjusted the blade to the 5 degree angle and bumped the fence in 1/4" and re-cut the panel.



The result is a nice tight fit where the CP meets the curved face.  Phew..



Here I'm gluing/clamping on a 1/4" plywood spacer to the bottom of the curved piece.  The upside of my mistake is that I could have messed this up more than once, re-cut the curve and added more to the bottom.  So in the end, not a big deal.



Next, trim off the excess on the front with the bandsaw - get it close w/o touching.. Also notice the tight lamination of the 4 x 1/8" plywood.. Vacuum clamping at it's best!



Back to the pattern bit at the router table and trim the face of the CP box flush.



Curved part completed.  It will end up laminated and not all that visible.. But it takes a little bit of the boxy cabinet look away..

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #23 on: January 30, 2018, 08:44:54 am »
Looking good sir, very nice wookwork.

But unless that thing breaks back down easily or your not gonna use tmoulding, rookie mistake #2, you forgot to cut your t slots for the moulding before you put it together.
   

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #24 on: January 30, 2018, 08:55:08 am »
Been there.

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #25 on: January 30, 2018, 09:17:09 am »
Thanks guys -

The whole cabinet will come apart by design.  I have threaded inserts all over it. In fact - it has to come apart or I can't get the bezel in.
My plan is to use Formica on the sides and front facing panels.  Once they are all in place - I'll cut the T-slots.


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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #26 on: January 31, 2018, 04:18:31 pm »
Clean lines and tight joints - this is my kind of build. Looks like it's coming along very nicely!

What kind of router table insert are you using? Are you happy with its accuracy?

Keep up the nice work!

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #27 on: January 31, 2018, 05:13:18 pm »
Thank you   ;D

The Router lift is pretty old - its on my table saw extension.
Something on this idea: Router Lift

What's nice about them is that its easy to pop the router out and change bits.  Also that the tablesaw itself turns into a large table for big awkward parts.
I use it for pattern bit and edge molding work mostly. 


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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #28 on: February 01, 2018, 01:00:08 am »
Nice work bperkins, thanks for sharing the wood skills, definitely taking notes in the background.


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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #29 on: February 04, 2018, 04:15:08 pm »
Hi Everyone,

Small update - no real complicated woodworking or anything..  Just working my way toward cutting and drilling the control panel.

I wanted a drawer for the mouse and keyboard.  Not sure if it will even get a handle - its really just storage for that and maybe some papers/diagrams I may need down the line.
Nothing complicated about it.. Drawer box and bottom.



Using scrap as guides helps with alignment of the drawer slides.  Use the guide to draw the center line on both sides of the cabinet w/o trying to measure and get the lines squared up.



Hides underneath the CP nicely.



Next up the coin door - I have two European hinges on it and plan to add a center one because the door/coin door are a bit on the heavy side.   These hinges are very adjustable to control the gap around the perimeter. Great to work with this style hinges.



While the door was mounted - I made a scrap template that matches the size of the opening needed for the coin door.  My design called for the coin door to be ~2 1/2" from the top of the door - using the template - I taped it to the door and found it looked a little nicer at 3 1/2" from the top edge..  So I went with that.

I cut the hole using a jig saw and dropped the coin door in place..  It uses 10-24 carriage bolts.  It would be best if I could use the drill press to get a nice perpendicular hole..  But the door is to big - a block pre-drilled at the press is a nice guide to make sure the hole does not get off course..  Slightly crooked carriage bolt heads are a small detail - but annoying to look at!



Mounted in place..



Here's where I'm at now..



I'll paint the carriage bolts black for final assembly..



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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #30 on: February 20, 2018, 08:30:38 am »
First update in a couple of weeks - work and life got in the way!  But back at it last night.

Another good use for the European hinges:  Everyone is going to want to see inside the control panel and I'm certain I will have it off and on dozens of times during construction & wiring.   It happened to work out that they close at greater than 90 deg of a traditional door and swing an extra 5 deg.  They are quick release so they click apart/together easily.



Waiting on artwork before final cutting and drilling the panel.



My original design was to have a full length door to access the rear.  But once it was all together I realized a couple things.  First - I have considerable access through the front with the coin door, drawer and control box being removable.  Second, the cabinet seemed a bit wobbly and a fixed panel in the back would add rigidity.  Second - I would have had to purchase another sheet of plywood for a full panel.  But I did have scrap to create a fixed lower panel and a door for behind the monitor.



Trick for any screws - lubricate them with a toilet bowl wax ring.  These threaded inserts were going into the stop blocks real hard..  Add wax and they spin in nice and easy.  This ring is probably near 20 years old.  For $3 - its worth having one around.



Door and fixed panel.  I'll go back and modify the plans to match.



95% of the woodworking is complete now.  I have a few adjustments to make here and there.  The plan is to disassemble, paint some areas and laminate the sides and front facing parts. 
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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #31 on: February 23, 2018, 01:47:05 pm »
Loving this project so far. Pretty much I would be following you, when I start my own project.
Thanks for posting all the detailed pictures, as I can planned ahead what I will be doing as well.
 ;)

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #32 on: February 24, 2018, 01:04:02 pm »
This thing is beautiful.  I love that you're building in plenty of 'easy access' points - this will save you a lot of headaches along the way! 

What are the holes behind the marquee for?  Ports?  More speakers?  Fans?  Skeeball?

Mike
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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #33 on: February 25, 2018, 08:42:26 pm »
Thanks for the kind words and following along -
The round holes are for ventilation.  I'll put fans up top if it gets too warm in there - better yet - it they made a little thermostat to kick them on .. hmmmmmm

I've taken the cabinet apart to work on painting and laminating the parts.  The interior will remain bare wood.  There are many edges where painting them flat black has the potential to cover up any mistakes.  I'm going to laminate the back panels, but there really is no need to do edge banding on them..  Those edges get paint.  I'm painting the side panel edges black so that if the T-Track has any small gaps, they will be black like the side panels.  I also painted the inside of the speaker and fan openings.  The bottom of the control panel box got black paint.



The drawer and coin door get edge banding - since they are most likely to be seen opened.  I started with the panel sides and will do the top and bottom once the sides are trimmed.   A trim router in a necessity for this type of work.



My side panels can be fit together to conserve materials.  Use a 1" (or so) block and trace around the panels on the back of the laminate.



Now the tough part - I tried cutting the material using a jig saw using the gap between the benches.  One side fell, tore and that was that.  I tried to cut the other side and had another sawing mistake and essentially ruined the entire sheet of laminate.   So much for conserving material.   There is enough left that I can use it for one of the large panels, etc..  But I will come up with a better way to do this without destroying the next sheet..



Bare wood is best with 2 coats of contact cement due to absorption.  I put one on, let it dry 30 minutes, then add a second coat to the wood and a single coat on the laminate pieces and allow it to dry 30 minutes.  Contact cement should be slightly tacky to the touch, like a PostIT note,  not wet like glue.  Its amazingly strong when lined up to stick to itself this way.



Once dry - you get one shot at attaching the laminate.  Best to line up larger sheets on long sticks/dowels - then pull them out one at a time and stick the sheet in place.  Use a J-roller to apply pressure to finish laminating the panel.

Here is part of the trimming process.  Router table and flush trim bit to clean up all of the overhang and openings.  It makes quite the mess.  The contact cement gums up the bearing on the router bit and clumps end up on the edge you are trying to cut.  You end up making a rough first pass - cleaning everything away - cleaning the edge and bit with acetone and then making a finish pass.



Inside the speaker opening, inside edge painted black.



Speaker panel all trimmed and cleaned up.  My build has lots of panels and edges. 



Here most of the work is done.  I have to do the sides and one more back panel.  Then the cabinet can go back together.



Laminating all of these parts isn't particularly difficult - it is time consuming..  I have 10-15 hours into it with more to go.  Probably still a better look than just paint.
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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #34 on: February 25, 2018, 09:49:54 pm »
Great post, love the details and the fact you are not afraid to post the mistakes, helps the rest of is inexperienced folk learn a lot.  Keep it coming :cheers:


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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #35 on: February 25, 2018, 11:32:41 pm »
Great post, I'm really looking forward to see how you will cut your next sheet of laminate. I will face the same problem soon.

Thanks

Martin

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #36 on: February 26, 2018, 11:44:31 am »
Thanks for the update on your project.

Not sure if you mentioned it already, but what kind of laminate are you using?
I am planning on painting my cabinet but if the laminate looks better like you said, I'd like to have a look if I can put it in my budget.

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #37 on: February 26, 2018, 11:55:34 am »
These guys work magic on laminate, cuts it like butter.  I call them laminate scissors, as you can coutour cut etc.  Add this to your arsenal or you may have one already.



And these are my best friends for inner edges that i can't band.

   

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #38 on: February 26, 2018, 12:00:32 pm »
Those laminate scissors are sweet. 

After a few close calls cutting my laminate I ended up using painter's tape to keep the laminate from splintering.  Not unlike using tape to keep plywood from fraying.

These guys work magic on laminate, cuts it like butter.  I call them laminate scissors, as you can coutour cut etc.  Add this to your arsenal or you may have one already.



And these are my best friends for inner edges that i can't band.



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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #39 on: February 26, 2018, 12:03:36 pm »
Thanks for the update on your project.

Not sure if you mentioned it already, but what kind of laminate are you using?
I am planning on painting my cabinet but if the laminate looks better like you said, I'd like to have a look if I can put it in my budget.

Laminate does look better, but at 70.00 a sheet it tends to get pricey.  You also have to build your cabinet out of 5/8 ply if use the 1/16 vertical grade laminate, so you tmoulding sits flush on both sides.  Another option if you are a router guy like the OP, mdf core black on black melamine is the way to go, usually around 50-60 a sheet, no painting , no laminating and the finish is superb.

 if you use the 1/8 laminate the sides will sit a little proud of your tmoulding but it's very durable.

   

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #40 on: February 26, 2018, 12:24:17 pm »
Thanks everyone - I like posting these types of threads because I've learned from them myself.
Posting mistakes helps everyone too - I wish I saw more of it in threads.  Everyone who has done a great cab has mistakes. Getting good at something is knowing how to fix them!

I was thinking about that style of cutter/nipper.  It looks like the same think they use for sheet metal - which I have needed more than once.  I wasn't 100% sure they would work on laminate, but didn't know I needed them until 2 days ago!  The Depot has some that I bet will work fine - trip tonight to get/test them..  I have plenty of stock to try them out.

I used Wilsonart Laminate  its $42 per sheet.  Mine were damaged at the edges so they marked them down to $32.  Perfect for me.

My cab is 3/4" plywood.  The Laminate is 1/32" thick.  I need to make a test piece and cut the T-Slot.  The T-Molding guy sells 13/16" stock.  So it will be either 3/4" or 13/16".




« Last Edit: February 27, 2018, 12:29:22 pm by bperkins01 »
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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #41 on: February 26, 2018, 12:38:55 pm »
Yes they are the same as sheet metal shears, harbor freight has a cheap one, that's what i bought and have had it for years. 

oowee you are using the thin laminate, you will will love those shears, with that stock for sure.

Also look into abs plastic sheets, those for 25.00 a sheet.
   

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #42 on: February 26, 2018, 12:55:36 pm »
thanks for sharing the laminate info.

I am a noob, so your comments and pics on your progress will be very helpful.
 :cheers:

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #43 on: February 26, 2018, 12:58:14 pm »
Perfect - that's good news.  I figured they were the same.  The Air powered ones are pretty inexpensive - so I'll be going that way. 
I'll post a video of it in action one I get set up.

Straight cuts are simple - table saw made everything I needed.
Curves are the issue - so I'll give it a shot.
Thx
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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #44 on: February 26, 2018, 02:21:36 pm »
Bummer about the busted laminate. I used the same black Wilsonart stuff on my build - figured $42 was worth it in comparison to the cost of paint, primer, and the arduous task of getting a perfect finish.

Never used them myself, but I hear the laminate scissors are clean and easy to use. I ended up using my Dremel with a multipurpose cutting bit. Made a huge mess, but resulted in a clean cut.

Looking good!

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #45 on: February 26, 2018, 09:33:54 pm »
Ok - went out and got an air sheer at the Depot and gave it a quick test drive: Air Sheer Video

On a small piece of scrap like this it was a bit tricky to get the cutting angle correct, you have to point it downward more than you would think to get it moving.
But - it will cut out curves just fine for what I need.  I've been eyeballing one of these tools for a while and will find more uses for it.  I wish I had it when I was putting in my dust collection system..

Straight cuts will still be on the table saw - but for roughing out curves - this will be the way to go.

Even better - the Depot got a fresh shipment of sheet laminate in..  So I get to try again very soon   :dunno
Thanks for the help here all!
« Last Edit: February 26, 2018, 09:48:39 pm by bperkins01 »
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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #46 on: February 27, 2018, 11:53:42 am »
Thanks everyone - I like posting these types of threads because I've learned from them myself.
Posting mistakes helps everyone too - I wish I saw more of it in threads.  Everyone who has done a great cab has mistakes. Getting good at something is knowing how to fix them!

I was thinking about that style of cutter/nipper.  It looks like the same think they use for sheet metal - which I have needed more than once.  I wasn't 100% sure they would work on laminate, but didn't know I needed them until 2 days ago!  The Depot has some that I bet will work fine - trip tonight to get/test them..  I have plenty of stock to try them out.

I used Wilsonart Laminate  its $42 per sheet.  Mine were damaged at the edges so they marked them down to $32.  Perfect for me.

My cab is 3/4" plywood.  The Laminate is 1/32" thick.  I need to make a test piece and cut the T-Slot.  The T-Molding guy sells 13/16" stock.  So it will be either 3/4" or 13/16".

I was planning on doing the same thing, the math I had was 0.706 for the plywood (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Prefinished-Birch-Plywood-Common-3-4-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-Actual-0-703-in-x-48-in-x-96-in-971080/203005208), and Wilsonart Vertical grade black matte at 0.028 (https://www.wilsonart.com/black-1595).  If I laminated both sides I came up with a total thickness of 0.762 which would be an overlap of 0.012 which would be less than 1/64.  I figured this small of an overlap would be fine with 3/4 T-Moulding.  Am I off base?

For cutting the laminate, most folks Ive seen were using a router with a flush trim bit and following the wood edge.  Are the cutter/nippers for areas where this isnt an option?  If so where is that coming up?

Also the cost that the home depot website had for the laminate was $58/sheet, is that the tax for a California address, or are you getting this price somewhere else?

Cheers, thanks again for the posts. :cheers:

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #47 on: February 27, 2018, 12:42:28 pm »
hmm... Somehow I put a bad link in for the Wilsonart (Just fixed it)  But it is $42 per sheet here..

I made a test block laminated both sides for setting up the T-Slot bit on the router.
It is exactly 25/32" thick.  So right between 3/4" and 13/16"

Coin toss...

The reason for the nippers is to break down the 4x8' sheet into more manageable sizes AND cut curves while doing it.  An Alternative (which I may do) is to get a half sheet of 1/2" foam board insulation - then just use a plunge bit and cut it with a router on the bench top..  The nippers are not for the final finish trim operation that you would do with a flush trim bit.

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #48 on: February 27, 2018, 01:09:12 pm »
hmm... Somehow I put a bad link in for the Wilsonart (Just fixed it)  But it is $42 per sheet here..

I made a test block laminated both sides for setting up the T-Slot bit on the router.
It is exactly 25/32" thick.  So right between 3/4" and 13/16"

Coin toss...

The reason for the nippers is to break down the 4x8' sheet into more manageable sizes AND cut curves while doing it.  An Alternative (which I may do) is to get a half sheet of 1/2" foam board insulation - then just use a plunge bit and cut it with a router on the bench top..  The nippers are not for the final finish trim operation that you would do with a flush trim bit.

I guess this is another privilege of being a CA resident:



So just to clarify the Wilsonart website shows the thickness of their laminate offerings being:



Does that mean the Vertical grade is not really 0.028" like the website says but is actually 1/32" or 0.03125?

Thanks again.

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #49 on: February 27, 2018, 01:18:31 pm »
I just put my calipers on the stuff I have.. it is a just a hair over 1/32"  (They are my woodworking calipers - not machinist - they are 1/64" spacing on the dial)
The plywood/glue/laminate layer are going to be use case specific (wood is the big variable obviously)
Which is why I waited on the T-Molding..   I got 3/4" and 13/16" Samples to test to see how it will look.  I'll be ordering that stuff any day now.
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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #50 on: February 27, 2018, 03:33:37 pm »
I just put my calipers on the stuff I have.. it is a just a hair over 1/32"  (They are my woodworking calipers - not machinist - they are 1/64" spacing on the dial)
The plywood/glue/laminate layer are going to be use case specific (wood is the big variable obviously)
Which is why I waited on the T-Molding..   I got 3/4" and 13/16" Samples to test to see how it will look.  I'll be ordering that stuff any day now.


Thats great info, thanks!


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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #51 on: February 27, 2018, 07:53:01 pm »
Nah man, those are choppy, the electric ones from harbor freight are way smoother less fighting and way easier to control.  It's like cutting it with a hot knife.

https://www.harborfreight.com/14-gauge-4-amp-heavy-duty-metal-shears-68199.html
   

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #52 on: March 05, 2018, 08:12:40 am »
Completed the last of the messy work this weekend.
One of he last of the lamination steps - covering the inside edges of the sides.  Glue, stick, trim with a patter bit on the router table.



It worked out that the only place there will be  seams is this little 4" section on the top/ back of the cab..  I can live with that.



Back to cutting the laminate - layout done..



Cutting with shears - done.  No problem this time.  In the end - I'm  pretty sure I would have needed 3 sheets to do what I wanted to do anyway.  I just had a little more waste than expected.



Inside and outside lamination complete - along with about an hour of shop cleanup.  I had thought I'd decided on a T-molding color, then looked one last time and have 2 more samples coming.  I'll install them before setting up the cabinet.
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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #53 on: March 13, 2018, 11:24:47 pm »
Small update tonight:

So I decided on grey T-Molding.  (Boring?)  I cut the 1/16" slot with the standard slot cutter and a router.  Before I installed the molding, I used a long pin with a piece of tape as depth gauge and followed the slot all the way around to make sure the router didn't wander.  The cut was so smooth it was hard to tell if the bearing was actually touching at all times.  Pulling off the molding to recut the slot is what I wanted to avoid.  Good news - I cut it right the first time.



I used a carving mallet to tap the T-Molding in. Here are the snips needed to get around the inside and outside corners so the stuff doesn't buckle



I found even the mallet seemed to be marking the plastic a bit - old sock here to help soften the blow.



Completed installation. 



Cabinet assembly is up next. 
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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #54 on: March 13, 2018, 11:34:02 pm »
Looks sharp, nice work :applaud:

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #55 on: March 14, 2018, 09:58:48 am »
Using a pin to test your depth is a neat idea.  I have had to re-cut my slot once or twice before.

I like the gray t-molding.  It looks different than what you normally see.


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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #56 on: March 14, 2018, 11:57:56 am »
OOOOOOOhhhhhhh.... that has 90's love all over it... Reminds me of the Air Raids!

Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin to slit throats.

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #57 on: March 14, 2018, 12:04:12 pm »
Thanks guys -

I'm no artist - when its done - it could be a big clashing mess..   hopefully not.
I just thought the edge banding shouldn't be distracting or loud since it will be in a normal living area and not a 'Game Room'  :)

and - I'd wear those   :applaud:
« Last Edit: March 14, 2018, 12:06:52 pm by bperkins01 »
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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #58 on: March 14, 2018, 12:08:03 pm »
To clarify... I am a Huge fan of those shoes.  :D
Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin to slit throats.

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #59 on: March 15, 2018, 09:13:59 am »
Great looking cab!

This is well thought out and executed. I really appreciate the ease of access to everything as well as the colors.  I am looking forward to seeing this finished out

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #60 on: March 15, 2018, 09:53:22 am »
Will you have to take off the t-molding to cut your vinyl when you apply it?

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #61 on: March 15, 2018, 09:56:30 am »
ahhh - Geez - I hope not..  Did I get that out of order? 
That's going to make for a tedious install.. 
In hindsight - I can see how it would be easier..

oops..
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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #62 on: March 15, 2018, 12:36:16 pm »
ahhh - Geez - I hope not..  Did I get that out of order? 
That's going to make for a tedious install.. 
In hindsight - I can see how it would be easier..

oops..

Havent done it myself but everyone Ive watched online seems to put the vinyl on and use a new Exacto knife and follow the edge of the wood, with that technique at least it might be hard with the t-mounding installed.

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #63 on: March 15, 2018, 12:37:42 pm »
Yea - count that as inexperience...  oh well..  I'll make it work.. :dizzy:
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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #64 on: March 23, 2018, 10:02:10 am »
How is this coming along? You inspired me to mount my router to my table saw extension.

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #65 on: March 23, 2018, 10:21:22 am »
Hi Mike,

Glad I inspired you  ;)

I've been sidelined the past couple of weeks with other stuff (sadly) - I will have some updates very soon.
The cabinet is starting to go together - But I haven't stopped!
thx!
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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #66 on: March 25, 2018, 07:19:14 pm »
Time for a real update - the cabinet is together.

I got started on the bottom panel first..  My cabinet will be for Mame games (maybe others?) but it also has the potential to be a jukebox too..  So I put in an inexpensive subwoofer just in case something in the future can take advantage of it speaker fabric, faced downward, insulation and will be enclosed.



Black screws are hard to find, but simple to make.  Just a detail..  These are for the wheels for when I tilt/roll the cabinet.



Shiny black screws that no one will ever see much nicer than silver colored screws that no one will ever see.



My top panel has cooling fans and hand holds.  Not sure the fans will even be necessary or if it will get hot inside the cabinet..  They are very quiet so it certainly cant hurt.



I didnt take pics of the cabinet going back together all of the parts were fit prior to adding the laminate.  Here is a small shelf to mount the PC..  Havent quite decided if Im going to drill holes and screw the PC on ..  or just make straps.



Here is is set up I went with 1/4″ grey tempered glass.  Not CHEAP!  But it really looks nice..  The control panel blank just clicks in place with the European hinges.



The top speakers will also be insulated and in a box.  My monitor mount is quite simple wood clamps to hold it in place.  Here I have the power sensing strip in place and the rear power connector set up.



On the lower blocks on the mount I tapped in a couple of bolts as adjusters to level the monitor in the bezel.  Left and right adjustment is a matter of just moving it left and right.  Then I just tighten all of the mounts to lock it in..



Here is the monitor with the bezel removed and the LCD flipped over off of the backer panel.  The LCD was not sitting flush against my bezel and I needed to add a backer to the existing frame to move it out a bit.



Here is a thin 1/8″ strip of adhesive backed felt (blue) that I added to the existing edge gasket.  I used compressed air to get every spec of dust out of the monitor, then cleaned the LCD and the tempered glass and quickly got it all together in the cabinet so that there would not be any trapped dust.

Note:  The first time around I just mounted the monitor to the bezel.  Unfortunately the LCD slides all over the place.  So I had to take the monitor back off and tape the edge of the LCD in place so that it could not move..  For this type of monitor and mounting method its a must.  I happened to have foil tape (used for duct work but not Duck tape).  The foil tape is perfect for this..



I went with a smart strip and the panel mount switch.  Connectors, heat shrink insulation.  I rather like this part of the process getting all of the wiring in place.




This next part I will go into a lot of detail not necessarily because it is particularly complicated but because I could not find this information anywhere I scoured the internet and found nothing on this specific type of power switch..  So Google, Bing and any other search engines find this so it can help some others out!

The PC I got is a Dell Inspiron 3668.   My plan is to put a lighted LCD switch below the CP.  One switch powers on the PC the power strip senses the power coming on and turns on everything else in the cabinet.



The internal switch on the PC is an 0HKFHK7 (Above).  All of the Dell power switch connectors I found documentation on were 10 pins.  This is an 8 pin power switch connector.

Below is the connector on the PC for the power switch that I could not find the pinouts for.  But I was able to figure out what the pins do to set up my remote switch.

1   LED negative

2   LED 5V+

3 Momentary switch

4/5 Unused

6/7 Momentary Switch (must be tied together or the BIOS will report defective switch hardware)


I cut the original switch off, saved the connector and added dupont pins.  Cutting open the switch and a little testing got this part figured out.



I'll add proper connectors, mount the PC and get the remote switch set up next.

(more to come)
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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #67 on: March 25, 2018, 08:04:29 pm »
That is some nice work. You might want to see a mental health professional about that OCD.  :cheers:

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #68 on: March 26, 2018, 12:27:17 am »
Nice work, its coming along very nicely.  One thought on the Sub woofer, while Im no audio expert you may want to consider drilling a hole in the box you have enclosing it to act as a port.  Most subs have this as I believe that when the sub pushes in, the air then bounces off the enclosure forcing the subwoofer back out which may conflict with the sound.  I believe this is where you here people refer to the bass as sounding tubby....just a thought.  You could always test the sound and drill incrementally larger holes until it sounds better if necessary.

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #69 on: March 27, 2018, 09:54:08 pm »
I do the same paint trick with screws and other hardware... I keep a few shoeboxes handy at all times for that purpose :)  Sometimes your driver bit will chip the paint as you install... I find that Plastidip on the screws or on your bit works really well to keep that from happening!

Porting a sub can be a frustrating exercise for the uninitiated... it's a relatively scientific procedure to get good results.  I would recommend sealing and living with it for a bit before you add any ports.  If you need an amp, some cheap class D boards can be had from Parts Express.

Mike

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #70 on: March 28, 2018, 08:27:38 am »
Thanks Arroyo and rave0035 on the subwoofer advice.  I do have a small amp that will separate out bass and the top speakers.  Once its all hooked up I'll see what happens in the music/jukebox department.  Really not expecting a Bose speaker system here..  But I don't like crappy bass either.. 

My other plan is I got a small rocker switch that I'll connect to the Ultimate IO card and map it to the keyboard volume+ and volume- keys...  hopefully that works out.
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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #71 on: March 29, 2018, 07:32:56 pm »
hey check your PM so we can follow up. my customjoystick gmail got banned lol ???

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #72 on: March 29, 2018, 07:35:10 pm »
also very cool project :applaud:

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #73 on: March 29, 2018, 07:45:39 pm »
    Jukes don't usually use sub enclosures, If you decide to run that much power, remote speakers would be a better option.

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #74 on: March 30, 2018, 09:24:47 am »
No - not a lot of power at all.. I have a small 2.1 AMP that maybe cost $40.. 
The 'Jukebox' mode will be more of a background music setting - not an entertainment center. 
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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #75 on: March 30, 2018, 11:42:53 am »
Quick mid-week update:

I got the connectors all set up after some fiddling around.  The remote power switch (also called a vandal switch it seems) has an LED ring that can run 5v or 12v.  The 12v is a little brighter of course.  I wanted it set up to be lit all the time, however the PC switch LED was only lit when the PC was on.. 

That said - PC's have standby power when the machine is off so that the power switch can trigger the rest of the machine to turn in..  Standby power is normally 5v.  I got a little lucky in that my power supply has 12v standby power..  So I tapped into that for the LED ring..  I also crimped on a couple of connectors so I can get everything apart easily.



I had some cheap harbor Freight tool box liner which is a thin foam material.  The PC shelf, side and top got it to insulate any vibrations so the cabinet didn't develop a hum over time..



To secure the PC - I ended up making a cap out of scrap wood that snugly holds it in place.  The strips go around the side and front and the cap has some of that foam in it.  I put some on the blocking that attaches the cap to the side as a gasket..  just in case some PC vibrations decided to use the side panel as a giant sounding board. 



All that for a little LED ring..



I'm planning on getting the speakers and marquee LEDs in place this weekend.. 
« Last Edit: March 30, 2018, 12:18:28 pm by bperkins01 »
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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #76 on: March 30, 2018, 10:51:40 pm »
You keeping us in suspense on the art?

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #77 on: March 31, 2018, 08:24:33 am »
Haha..

No - I've been working with SNAAKE for a while on the art.  I'm pretty good with the woodworking and building - I'm no artist.. We will see how the design comes out.  It will be a theme cabinet .. (Lakeside Arcade) of course..   I'll be happy with 'Not goofy looking'   :laugh2:
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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #78 on: March 31, 2018, 06:36:32 pm »
Haha..

No - I've been working with SNAAKE for a while on the art.  I'm pretty good with the woodworking and building - I'm no artist.. We will see how the design comes out.  It will be a theme cabinet .. (Lakeside Arcade) of course..   I'll be happy with 'Not goofy looking'   :laugh2:


Snaake did a great job with mine! Good job snagging him!
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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #79 on: April 01, 2018, 08:37:35 am »
This project is looking great!
No doubt you are experienced in wood working.
I wish I knew 1/4 what you do.


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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #80 on: April 01, 2018, 10:13:24 am »
Thanks 'DaOld Man'  - I like your Jukeboxes...  I will be adding some of that software to my cabinet.

Great day of wiring and getting things in place.  I started with the marquee LED strips.  These turned out to be pretty simple - I had never worked them before and it looked like they could be a pain to solder. 

I cut off a the smallest section of the strip, put a little solder ball on each pad a then soldered a lead wire into it.  It was as easy as the YouTube video made it look. 



My marquee with strips in place ready for connecting wires.



All  lit up and ready to go.  I may need some diffuser material to flatten out the pattern depending on how it looks behind the marquee.



Here is how I decided to power the cabinet - there are a few 12V items (LED strips, AMP, reject button bulbs) - much simpler to connect them to terminal blocks.  The arcade power supply mounted next to the strip kept everything pretty compact.



I borrowed this Velcro strip idea from someone in the forum (Flynn's Arcade maybe?)  its a great way to manage wires and create pathways.  I ran out of it..  Need to get more to finish cleaning up the cabinet.



A few more wires getting into position on the 12v terminal blocks.



Upper speakers in place - I filled the compartment with insulation and closed it up.  The small amplifier works  quite well.  The best place to put it was right behind the monitor and above the PC. 



The top parts in place for the last time (hopefully).  Cooling fans are under these grates, but they are a little louder than I expected.  So they will stay unplugged until I determine if they are actually needed - or maybe I can find a temperature sensing controller that can spin them up at a variable speed as the cabinet heats up..  The hand holds are working out really nice..  Glad I saw these on someones page.



Here is where I am at the moment - Still need to attach the toe kick and clean up a few items.  I'll be in a bit of a holding pattern for a while until all of the artwork is finalized and gets printed up. 

As for the sound - I connected the amp directly to my iPhone and ran some songs off my playlist to get the levels balanced out etc..  For an arcade cabinet - this box sounds really good.  People said that the subwoofer would need a port so that it didn't sound muted..  I put my hand over the hole where the speaker wire came out and there was a steady breeze - pretty cool.  I did cut a hole in the front to let it breath just a bit more and the bass is reasonable.  I'll mess with it more once the whole thing is enclosed.  Audio off of the iPhone is way better than expected. 

Audio from the PC is not not right yet.  There is background hiss and other noise that makes no sense..  Its certainly coming from the PC since everything is identical except the source.



While I wait on the control panel artwork - I'll start getting the software set up to auto boot, remote access, etc..  clean the shop - what a mess once you get wiring..

(more to come...)
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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #81 on: April 01, 2018, 01:25:12 pm »
Audio from the PC is not not right yet.  There is background hiss and other noise that makes no sense..  Its certainly coming from the PC since everything is identical except the source.

While I wait on the control panel artwork - I'll start getting the software set up to auto boot, remote access, etc..  clean the shop - what a mess once you get wiring..

(more to come...)

Sounds like you have a ground loop somewhere,  Are you powering the amp from the PC or the separate PSU,  I had a similar problem and the resolution was to run the Amp from a separate psu.  Also are you running your audio connection next to power?  Ideally should be run as far from power as possible.

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #82 on: April 02, 2018, 01:44:48 am »

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #83 on: April 02, 2018, 08:14:46 am »
Thanks for the audio help.   Drnick - the AMP is connected to the Arcade PS..
I would think some external source is not causing the noise...  simply moving the headphone jack from the iPhone to the PC is the only difference between no hiss and some background noise.

The PC seems to have *smart* headphone jack inputs..  When you plug in the amplifier - it can sense it - it then asks me what I plugged in..
Headphones, surround speakers and a few other options. Its something to do with that - I haven't worked through all of the settings to see if one is better than the other..  Do they still even make sound cards?  Maybe a cheapo one of them with get it if I don't figure it out.  :)
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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #84 on: April 02, 2018, 06:59:50 pm »
Yeah they still make cheap soundcards, they also do usb soundcards nowadays, didn't realise the little adapter in a NUC I recently got was a USB soundcard till I took a closer look at it.  Designed to look like a valve tube. Funny looking thing. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Maplin-Audio-Transparent-Vacuum-Stereo/dp/B00QS3QKNE

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #85 on: April 02, 2018, 08:21:40 pm »
Could still be a ground loop issue.  You don't have the same issue when you use the iPhone since it doesn't share a ground with the amp.

Try plugging the PC into another outlet and see if it solves any issues.  If it does, there are inexpensive solutions.

Mike
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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #86 on: April 03, 2018, 09:01:52 am »
Thanks for the lead rave0035.  I plugged the arcade power supply into a different circuit - still some of the same noise sadly.. 
Turns out sound cards are under $20..  I will play with settings and stuff a bit more to see if I can find any additional clues..  then probably pick up a card.
Its relatively minor - I just hate that type of issue.
thanks!
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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #88 on: April 03, 2018, 12:35:53 pm »
Hi jennifer -

Sorry I did not respond sooner  :dizzy:  I read through the link and I *think* I understand..  I may be able to put some sort of filter on the speaker lines that are just under the marquee (they are coaxial) that (I'm assuming) blocks above a certain frequency?  (20K?)
They are certainly inexpensive enough to try..

Am I on the right track?
thanks for your help..
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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #89 on: April 03, 2018, 12:43:06 pm »
Well kinda....Basically you loop your speaker wire around (the round ones anyway) And the magnet changes the phase to be out of sync with your noise.

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #90 on: April 03, 2018, 12:44:09 pm »
That some nice clean mounting and wiring inside your cabinet.   I especially like how you mounted your PC.   :cheers:

Is that cap just screwed in?

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #91 on: April 03, 2018, 01:27:26 pm »
Thx jennifer - I will do some more reading on it.  Plenty of time to mess with it while I do other things..

wp34 - yes - the PC is sitting on the shelf and the cap is a very snug fit.  No screws into the PC..  Just three into the cabinet side to hold the cap on.  It is very tightly in place.

I didn't want the PC on the floor of the cab to (hopefully) reduce the amount of dust it sucks in.. and the access is easier to the ports, etc..
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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #92 on: April 03, 2018, 03:53:27 pm »
Make sure you get a high quality marquee material... otherwise those led's will wash that marquee right out.
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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #93 on: April 03, 2018, 04:18:34 pm »
Thanks Ian -
   I'm a little worried about that.  I want to find some diffuser material to flatten that light out - maybe an old flat screen TV at the dump and cut the LED diffuser out.

I have them covered with cardboard right now - when I fire the cabinet up - they are a little blinding.

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #94 on: April 04, 2018, 10:46:21 am »
Thanks Ian -
   I'm a little worried about that.  I want to find some diffuser material to flatten that light out - maybe an old flat screen TV at the dump and cut the LED diffuser out.

I have them covered with cardboard right now - when I fire the cabinet up - they are a little blinding.
Maybe something like this? https://www.plexiglas-shop.com/GB/en/plexiglas-led/fuer-hinterleuchtung-fgs06f3a5ma.html?tx=7zylw5x7mcm

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #95 on: April 12, 2018, 04:01:26 pm »
Not much new to report - stalled a bit until the artwork for the CP is completed.
I've been doing software work - learning to program AutoHotkey so that things work the way I'd like..  But I have a way to go on it..  my coding skills are rusty to say the least.

I did solve my crappy sound problem.
Inexpensive SoundBlaster card - bypassed the internal one - no more noise..

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #96 on: April 26, 2018, 01:48:01 pm »
it is getting so nice. Can't wait to see when you are done with your CP.

One question, How did you install the acrylic sheet in front of the screen? or if you could show a picture of it?

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #97 on: April 26, 2018, 02:26:52 pm »
Thanks - I got the first completed CP image today - I need to do a test print and see what may need to change.

I used tempered glass for the screen

In this picture you can see a dado all the way around where the glass and bezel are inset.

I do not have any pictures of the cabinet going together - but basically - lay a side panel on a table - install the parts that connect the sides - then slip in the glass, bezel - then lock it together with the opposite side..  There is a bit of giggling and messing around to get it all assembled.  But I had done it a few times at that point.

Hope to get the CP started soon  :)
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bad_boo

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #98 on: April 26, 2018, 03:33:23 pm »
oh I see.
So you had the store to cut it for you then. I was reading that some people prefer glass over plexi, as it looks better.
I am considering it too.

Thanks for your reply, hope everything works for you with the CP art
« Last Edit: April 26, 2018, 03:35:30 pm by bad_boo »

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #99 on: April 26, 2018, 03:35:09 pm »
Well... Tempered glass is a little different.  It is tough and strong.  But they don't cut it.. It is 'made to order'.
So you need to be 100% sure you have the size right..  its pretty expensive stuff to make a mistake with ..
that said - this one is worth it.. smoked grey 1/4" glass..  looks great!
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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #100 on: April 26, 2018, 03:42:04 pm »
Well... Tempered glass is a little different.  It is tough and strong.  But they don't cut it.. It is 'made to order'.
So you need to be 100% sure you have the size right..  its pretty expensive stuff to make a mistake with ..
that said - this one is worth it.. smoked grey 1/4" glass..  looks great!

Gotta agree on the Tempered/Smoked grey glass.  I tried a piece of perspex/plexi in front of the monitor on mine and it looked like a pile of steamin meadow muffin compared to glass.  Make sure to get the edges rounded off too :)

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #101 on: April 26, 2018, 04:05:28 pm »
I tried a quote online at this website:
https://www.onedayglass.com/

I got a quote of $46 + shipping (I don't know how much it would be to Canada) with these settings:
Type: Tempered Glass
Shape: Square/Rectangle
Thickness: 1/4"
Tint: Clear
Edgework: Seamed Edge
Width: 40"
Height: 26"

I don't find it that expensive, unless I am quoting the wrong thing lol

« Last Edit: April 26, 2018, 04:07:47 pm by bad_boo »

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #102 on: April 26, 2018, 04:06:46 pm »
---

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #103 on: April 26, 2018, 04:08:28 pm »
I tried a quote online at this website:
https://www.onedayglass.com/

I got a quote of $46 (+ shipping and taxes) with this settings:
Type: Tempered Glass
Shape: Square/Rectangle
Thickness: 1/4"
Tint: Clear
Edgework: Seamed Edge
Width: 40"
Height: 26"

I don't find it that expensive, unless I am quoting the wrong thing lol
Well if that is true   I paid too much [emoji4]


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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #104 on: May 03, 2018, 09:45:53 am »
Its been a while since the last update.  I've been hesitant to cut the control panel too shape until I received the overlay artwork.   Now is the time to cut and test the shape.  I received the preliminary artwork and printed it at Staples.  Based on what I have - I can at least cut the outer shape so I'm not looking at a square CP blank on my cabinet.

Below you can see the underside of the CP and some 1/8" hardboard.  Since I'm using the router table - I just duplicated the entire panel by double stick tape, trim close and then using a pattern bit with a bearing - cut the template out.



I like using 1/8" hardboard because it is very easy to create fair curves.  You can get very picky about the shapes w/o ruining expensive plywood.   One of the reasons for all the extra work is because of the curved face to the control panel box.  There are two curved lines.  The inner one follows the face of the box, the one at the edge is for a 1" overhang.  Drawing that line is simple - find a 1" block of wood and slide it along the face of the CP box with a pencil.



Here are a few steps shown at the same time.

First I lined up the template stock and taped it in place - it's set back the depth of the curve.  Using a compass I made a bunch of semi-circles along the length of the curve I'm trying to duplicate.  Next I use a flexible strip of wood and connect all of the tops of the semi-circles.  Use as few weights to hold the curve as you can so you do not end up with lumps.  The wood strip will make a nice fair curve if you let it.  Then draw the line to cut too...



Here is a better view of it.  This is the second try actually - I didn't like my first attempt. (as seen opposite of the side I'm working on)  The shaping is a bit finicky if you are working toward a fair curve.  My artwork will have some boarder lines that will follow this curve.  The lines were drawn from my Sketchup drawings.  I'm really just trying to make the CP as close to my plans as I can so that everything looks right.  Shaping this curve should match the line on the underside of the CP.  My goal is to try to split the pencil line drawn on the bottom of the CP.



My next step is to take my curve template and create a single pattern for the final CP.  The arrows show the two curved parts that are the shape I wanted.   Everything else is waste.  I use the tablesaw fence to keep things squared up and I have a piece of 1/4" hardboard (scrap in my case) to copy the curves too for the final template.

To get the final shape - I double stick taped the curve template in position, trim then finish at the router table.  Then I flipped it over and did the opposite side so I perfectly mirror the shape left to right.  The I re-positioned to get the opposite corners and flipped again to mirror.    Basically I flipped and moved the pattern 4 times to get all of the shapes duplicated to the 1/4" hardboard.  My original plan was to make this one the template all at once.  But it turned into a pain..  Much easier to just make the curves you want and reuse them on another piece of material to get the final as shape.



My hardboard template is completed and double stick taped onto the actual CP.  My pencil lines on the back match perfect.



Quick pre-trim with a bandsaw and then finish with the router table.  Another reason to use a pattern and a router trim bit at the table is you get perfectly square edges for the T-Molding.  No gaps or weird shapes to contend with.



The best part is down the road if I decide to change the CP - I can make a new blank in about 10 minutes with this template.   The leading edge mirrors the curve of the CP box and the artwork for the CP matches the shape.

Here is a preview of the marquee..  I had the CP and marquee printed up at Staples.  Both need some minor changes.  Here the font is just a bit too big - so it needs to be shrunken a bit. 

More importantly - the CP is now the right shape.  I'm going to wait for the final overlay to be completed before drilling holes for the trackball & buttons. 



(more to come...)

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #105 on: May 03, 2018, 05:06:47 pm »
Nice, solid build.  I wish my interior was so organized.  Now you get to do the CP!  Fun stuff, but now your OCD really gets to take over.  FYI, you'll be stoked to play your Spotify or Youtube music videos or whatever though this.  I agree with the sub.  Your's isn't too big to get in the way.

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #106 on: May 03, 2018, 09:21:37 pm »
Thanks JudgeRob,

I got all the stuff for a cool CP interior - the crimpers - Dupont connectors  -etc.  Hopefully I can keep it neat in there..
We'll see.   Waiting on one more revision and then off to the printers!
thx
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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #107 on: May 03, 2018, 10:07:11 pm »
What medium are you printing on?  Vinyl?

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #108 on: May 04, 2018, 08:40:18 am »
Hi JudgeRob,

I want to print on the thick vinyl with the textured surface.  i.e.  Same as commercial machines.  I've done some research but I'm open to suggestions on this.  I have a flush mount plate for the trackball and I plan to sand it smooth and fill the seam so that the surface is flat as I can get it.

I haven't found if there is a specific way to cut it around openings so they don't look like hack jobs...  But I'm sure someone has a great way to do that.
thx
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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #109 on: May 04, 2018, 09:46:12 am »
I haven't found if there is a specific way to cut it around openings so they don't look like hack jobs.
EMDB rough-cut most of the hole then used a router flush-trim bit.

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,130690.msg1425323.html#msg1425323



Make sure the bottom of the base of your router is clean and smooth to avoid scratching the artwork.

If it isn't smooth, use some adhesive felt patches on the base to protect the artwork.


Scott

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #110 on: May 04, 2018, 09:52:11 am »
Just cut the vinyl with an X-acto knife. Same results. Much easier.

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #111 on: May 04, 2018, 03:38:59 pm »
Thanks guys

I have a spiral bit I bet will work perfect. :)
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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #112 on: May 06, 2018, 11:20:04 pm »
Thats a great looking cabinet!  Looking forward to updates.  :applaud:

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #113 on: May 19, 2018, 08:18:10 am »
Making some forward progress again.

Artwork completed and printed.  I had Game On Grafix  print the marquee and the CP overlay.  Their Ultimate package prints directly onto plexiglass with a white diffusion layer.  I recommend getting the extra layer of plexi to go over the marquee.  It is printed on top of the glass - not behind it..  So you still need a sandwich of plexi to get it all right.



Leave the paper on until you have everything fit or course.  I'm mounting my marquee a bit non-traditionally.  The speaker panel is at an angle and there wasn't a good way to get a retainer bent and all of the plastic variants of retainers were too short.  My solution is 1" x 1/16" aluminium angle stock that I picked up at the hardware store.  Top piece is simple since it was at 90 deg.  If you look close - I'm screwing the marquee directly to the cabinet using #6 sheet metal screws.



Here is the clever part.. For the lower retainer - I cut one side to 1/8" to match the thickness of the plexi layers.  Tape the aluminum to a guide so you can slide the whole thing through slowly and let the blade do all the work.  The feather board will keep everything in place so that there are no mishaps with saw blades and metal!




Here is the lower retainer: The thin edge covers the marquee, fits flush against the speaker panel and covers the screws.  The bottom retainer will be double stick taped in place.  The upper retainer gets a couple screws on the top of the cabinet.



Someone mentioned that I had WAY too much backlighting and my marquee would be washed out..  That's 100% correct.  I'll be reducing the LEDs down to 2 strands and toning this down a lot!
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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #114 on: May 19, 2018, 10:54:50 am »
I did a quick read through and forgive me if I missed it, but why the name Lakeside? Is it going at a lake house? Do you live by a lake? Fond lake memories? Silent Hill's Lakeside Amusement Park?

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #115 on: May 19, 2018, 01:53:01 pm »
All good answers - it originally started as a way to play Centipede since I only seem to come across broken machines..  It evolved over time.
But yes - its final destination will be at a lake house (The CP will have a bit of a nautical theme too..)
Its been a learn as you go project..
I'll be happy to get the CP all wired up and get to some software setup..
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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #116 on: May 19, 2018, 05:10:59 pm »
All the Centipede machines must have ended up within 50 miles of my house. Craigslist is overflowing with them. A Centipede cocktail is one of the first machines I bought.

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #117 on: May 20, 2018, 04:20:57 pm »
All the Centipede machines must have ended up within 50 miles of my house. Craigslist is overflowing with them. A Centipede cocktail is one of the first machines I bought.

I second that! Those things pop up every other week it seems.
Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin to slit throats.

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #118 on: May 20, 2018, 06:16:26 pm »
All good answers - it originally started as a way to play Centipede since I only seem to come across broken machines..  It evolved over time.
But yes - its final destination will be at a lake house (The CP will have a bit of a nautical theme too..)
Its been a learn as you go project..
I'll be happy to get the CP all wired up and get to some software setup..

If this will be a nautical theme ditch that marquee, the artwork isn't working for me. It just reads "Cave man". Not nautical.
Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin to slit throats.

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #119 on: May 27, 2018, 09:27:26 am »
Small update - I've been a little slow on the project lately because of the day job and because I don't want to mess this part up and do it twice.

My overlay has a design that needs to be aligned to the control panel so that its border lines are spaced evenly all the way around.  (Will be shown later)..  All of that is dependent on the trackball being positioned at the correct spot.    I spent some time checking the artwork against the CP blank to be sure it all lines up so that the center of the trackball is positioned in the artwork properly.  Lots of checking and cross checking - then I'd wait and check a different way later..  just to force myself not to rush.  Hopefully that prevents expensive mistakes.

Step 1 was making a template for the trackball mounting plate.  My plan is to recess it into the control panel and sand it all smooth and cover it with the artwork.  Hopefully none of it will imprint/show through the overlay - that's the plan anyway..

Creating templates using an Inlay Router Set is pretty well documented.  The way I did it was I created a 12 x 12 blank from 1/4" hardboard and created a cross pattern and a center point on it.  Next I bolted the Trackball mounting plate from Twisted Quarter to the hardboard.   You can see the 'X' and '+' pattern that got the plate centered here after I cut the template.



Using the router & inlay kit (without the bushing attached) I copied the shape of the mounting plate to the hardboard resulting in the picture above.  The large outer template is the now the right size to route the recess in the control panel when using the added bushing. 

The inner template is larger that the mounting plate because of the router bushing.  I used a pattern bit on the router table to duplicate the shape of the plate exactly onto this piece.    The reason for this is more about neatness (for you OCD freaks!)  than anything else..



To create the opening for the actual trackball - you could cut it out - cover it with the plate and be done with it..  I expect I'll be opening the CP a lot to show people the innards.  So for me neatness counts.  I'm using the small piece to make a pattern to cut the inner opening. 

Using the router table/fence/stop blocks - I cut the template to a 5/8" width all the way around.  It made for a snug fit for the trackball.  You also get drill guide holes for the mounting plate as a positive side effect.



Back to the mounting plate recess.  I double stick taped the template to the CP and used the inlay bit to route the perimeter of the recess. 



With that done - I removed the template and flattened out the inside portion of the recessed area.  You can see some test cuts in the center waste to make sure I got the depth right before routing the edges.



Now the easy part.  Cut out the center waste area and mount the inner template..  It should fit perfectly as a match to the mounting plate.



Then clean it up with a pattern bit.



Finally - drop the mounting plate in. 




My current task is to determine how to align the CP overlay to the panel after all the holes are drilled.. I haven't come up with a good way to align it since all of my 'alignment points'  will be drilled out..  If that makes sense...

(more to come..)

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #120 on: May 27, 2018, 10:40:00 am »
This is a great set of documentation for making a template.  As a woodworker always looking to improve I'm really enjoying your build thread.  I wish I would have seen this before I mounted my trackball.

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #121 on: May 27, 2018, 12:04:08 pm »
Great job with the template! I'll be referencing this method for future builds.  :)

My plan is to recess it into the control panel and sand it all smooth and cover it with the artwork.  Hopefully none of it will imprint/show through the overlay - that's the plan anyway..

I always wondered if the plate showed through on other CPs. Your plate looks like it's a perfect fit so I'm interested to see how it turns out.

My current task is to determine how to align the CP overlay to the panel after all the holes are drilled.. I haven't come up with a good way to align it since all of my 'alignment points'  will be drilled out..  If that makes sense...

Thinking out loud, I wonder if you could pre-drill one or two button holes on the CPO to use as alignment points. Might not be accurate enough...

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #122 on: May 27, 2018, 12:59:48 pm »
My current task is to determine how to align the CP overlay to the panel after all the holes are drilled.. I haven't come up with a good way to align it since all of my 'alignment points'  will be drilled out..

I would try cutting the artwork to size and then apply it.

- punch a small hole through the middle of each 'alignment point'

- flip the artwork over so that the backside is up

- flip the CP over so that the backside is up

- align the CP and the artwork using the holes as a guide

- use weak double tape or clamps to make sure that CP and artwork stay in place

- use a sharp knife to cut along the edges of the CP

- remove the double tape/clamps

- flip CP and artwork over

- apply artwork

If you can't align CP and artwork properly because one or more holes in the CP are mayhaps a bit off, whip out a ruler, measure where each hole is and adjust your artwork accordingly before having it printed again.
                  

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #123 on: May 27, 2018, 06:44:51 pm »
    Interesting, and might work, Sewing tape (W/mart) is like a weak 2 sided  scotch tape kinda thing....Personally, I think Jenn would scan that, stitch scans, and print one off on a plot cut, check and move holes in 5 pixel increments in P/shop convert into AI and run another plot test until right. Ultimatly using the edges of the printed art (covered in transfer tape) as the template in the end.
« Last Edit: May 27, 2018, 06:46:33 pm by jennifer »

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #124 on: May 28, 2018, 07:54:43 am »
Thanks wp34, krangbrain, yamatetsu and jennifer, 

So far I've used thumbtacks/pushpins to get the overlay lined up.  They all go through the center points where I will be drilling.  My artwork has a ring that goes around the trackball that is maybe 1/4" wide...  So if its off even a 1/16" - its going to bother me!

I might have a clever/simple solution that I need to test to be sure..

Some of it is a couple of ideas I had and some based on your ideas..  and I must have been thinking about it in my sleep..  because it seems a bit simpler now. 
Hopefully I'll get it done in the next couple of days and put together some pics.
stay tuned.


« Last Edit: May 28, 2018, 08:03:57 am by bperkins01 »
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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #125 on: May 28, 2018, 02:20:46 pm »
  A bright light will shine through the vinyl if that helps any :-\.

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #126 on: May 28, 2018, 11:16:49 pm »
I always wondered if the plate showed through on other CPs. Your plate looks like it's a perfect fit so I'm interested to see how it turns out.

I would definitely add some bondo or spackle around the edge of the plate or it will probably shoe though the art.  Unless the art is printed on very think material and even then I wouldnt risk it.

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #127 on: May 31, 2018, 09:03:11 am »
My mounting plate required a little fitting and adjusting.  Getting the shape of the recess is relatively simple with the template method above. Getting the depth of the recess to cooperate is a little trickier.  Mine was about a sheet of paper not deep enough.  If you are not sure - then better to make it 2 sheets too deep and shim it from behind than try to remove more material once the template is removed.  Making the depth a little deeper requires a fair amount of hand work with the router and chisels.   



My CP will have the plate covered.  Another thing I should have done first is sand the plate smooth.  You can see the studs had dimples on the surface.  Sand the backside that makes contact smooth too.  Overall this plate was made to very high tolerances - I'm quite happy with it..  Had I sanded it first - my first pass at the recess would have been a bit closer.   All that said - you will still feel the slightest transition from the wood to the plate.  So I'll be skimming in some filler to ease that and hopefully prevent any imprinting from behind.



My cabinet has a bit of a theme - Lakeside Arcade.  The CP specifically draws from my largest project to date - The Miss Sheri Lynn.  Colors and some design thoughts are from the boat.  I also didn't want the CP to be overly busy.  Final location for the entire machine is at the lake house. 
My layout has the trackball centered in the white circle.  The white boarder carries over from the deck design of the 40's runabouts.  Keeping the spacing right has been top of mind.. But I think I have it figured out. 

I used thumbtacks to pin the overlay in place before the trackball mount was routed out.  More tacks = less ability for the overlay to change position.  Every drill point is marked by the thumbtack hole and I can reset the overlay to the exact position.



Next step - I drilled four holes on each side.  They are the furthest apart on either side of the CP.



Next I pinned the overlay down using all of the thumbtack holes so that it was back in its EXACT location.  While there, I carefully cut the six openings on the left and used buttons as clamps to hold the overlay in place.  All six of them together are doing the same work as the tacks - allowing me to position the overlay is the exact same location repeatably.  When the time comes - I can stick the overlay down from right to left - removing my buttons/clamps as I go..  No shifting!



Remainder of the holes drilled.  Next a skim of filler, sealer coat and some paint for the edges and bottom.  If all goes well it will be a wiring weekend!
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wp34

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #128 on: May 31, 2018, 09:09:06 am »
Wow that boat is amazing.   :cheers:

Reminds me a little of the boats in Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade.

bperkins01

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #129 on: June 04, 2018, 09:35:34 pm »
Small update:

Got the overlay on and started on button holes..



I skimmed on some bondo around the trackball plate.  Just a few slight variances as expected. Also added a coat of sealer to fill the grain.



Next I painted the panel black - and discovered that the studs that hold the mounting plate hit the Control Panel box when it closes... ooops...

So I popped the mounting plate out, counter sunk the holes, cut the studs and put it back.



which of course meant I had to reskim the joint with Bondo..  Very little time lost on the redo however.  No need to repaint - its getting the overlay.



Even with my button hole alignment system - I still wanted to check that the alignment of the boarder line was even with the top edge of my panel.  Here is my handy CP overlay alignment gauge (patent pending)..  Check along the length of the overlay.  I got that last little fidgety check in to keep the line even.  Using the buttons as clamps worked well here. 



After that - I stuck the CP overlay down from right to left.  Trimmed the edges and trackball opening.



This is what I was going for (for some reason.. don't know why)  I wanted a white ring around the ball.  I got it to within the width of a pin of variance.  I'll take it.



Trimming the remaining holes with an Exacto knife was going slow and sloppy.. My trim router and a spiral bit with bearing did the job.  Cut a rough opening and clean up with the router.  If you have the tools - this is simple and clean.  I cleaned the bit with acetone after every couple of holes.  The adhesive gummed it up a bit.

No doubt this CP design is not for everyone - its not very 'arcade like'.  It will fit in at the lake house and it is uncluttered - which I like.

(more to come..)
« Last Edit: June 04, 2018, 09:38:25 pm by bperkins01 »
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rave0035

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #130 on: June 04, 2018, 10:07:42 pm »
Looks great.  Well done. 

Nice boat!!
You can't truly know how something works until you've ruined it by taking it apart.

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #131 on: June 08, 2018, 01:08:44 am »
Get a amazon echo 40$ and a WiFi power strip 30$. Then set your pc to power on after failure in the bios. Plug the cabinet into that and now you will can turn it on with voice command or use an app on your phone. No pressing a button to turn it on. I have 4 arcade machines hooked to a smart strip that plugs into the WiFi strip. Really handy if you forget to turn it off after your in bed. Grab your phone and shut it off or on from anywhere you are.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mike A

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #132 on: June 08, 2018, 07:37:16 am »
Quote
Get a amazon echo

No thanks. The government already has enough ways it violates my privacy. They already record every phone call, and can peruse my texts and emails whenever they feel like it. I don't need a live mic in my home.


bperkins01

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #133 on: June 13, 2018, 09:09:13 am »
FINALLY!  got to start wiring. 
All my buttons and controls in place.

Did a check to make sure the CP will fit with everything installed..  Good thing - I had to reposition the IO card so that the power and USB connector wouldn't jam up on the back of the box.


Got through connecting all of the ground wires and continuity testing..  Went better than expected..  Everything worked on the first try.
Next I made a cheat note so that I wouldn't get confused on the button wiring.  Which was writing down the layout and flipping it..



Here I got started wiring -

After this -
Got all the buttons wired up - cut each to length and re-terminated them...  and then realized I should have mirrored the numbers, not flipped them..
grrrrrrr..  re-wired 8 buttons  - rookie mistake..
Pictures to follow.

Player 2 side gets wired tonight..
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Mike A

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #134 on: June 13, 2018, 10:03:29 am »
You are coming down the home stretch now. :cheers:

bad_boo

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #135 on: June 13, 2018, 01:56:19 pm »
Following this project.

Love how it is going.  ;)

bperkins01

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #136 on: June 14, 2018, 09:01:54 am »
Here are the tools I've been (mostly) using for the wiring.  Cutters, two types of wire strippers, crimping tool, small torch for heat shrink tubing and most important - tester for continuity.   I made a building stand for the CP so I could flip it, wire, etc..  w/o having it all bouncing around on the bench.  It is a piece of scrap particle board from a prior project, two scrap 2x4's carpeted to support the CP making room for the joysticks and buttons.



Everything pretty much comes back to the Ultimate I/O card.  Using the continuity tester is simple.  Set it to beep when a completed circuit is detected.  Clip one lead to your negative terminal and then push a button while checking its connection on the connector at the card.  There is just enough exposed to do this..  Getting all of them tested now is worth the effort.  You will likely have a bad crimp or connection someplace.  Find them as you make them.



For some reason I want to make sure the CP is modular enough to take apart.  I *could* make interchangeable panels the way I have this all set up..  Pop one off and put a new one on in short order..  That said - I used connectors on the CP box for the USB and the 7 wires I need to get in/out of the CP.  The connector has really small solder points..  My crappy 25 year old Radio Shack soldering iron is not the right one for this..  but I think I have good connections inside the box.



My coin door will work with quarters - maybe someday I'll find tokens and adjust to them.  The coin 'buttons' are on the bottom of the CP box.  One on each side.  The plan is to make them 'switchable' in the event I need to disable children from going crazy  :P



Coin button inside the CP Box.



Here is where I am at this point.. Sticks and buttons all wired up and tested.  I even connected the Servostick USB board to my laptop and changed the sticks from 4 way to 8 way about 10 times for fun.



There are a few more wires to connect and some cable management tasks left inside.   

Final big step - making the connector from the cabinet to the CP box. 

(more to come..)
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bperkins01

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #137 on: June 19, 2018, 08:41:04 pm »
Well this cabinet is rapidly drawing to a close:



I picked this up at the electronics store.  Does exactly what I wanted.  Connects a bunch of wires to the CP box so that I can keep it modular.

Early on I decided I wanted RGB LED buttons.  Paradise Arcade sells a very nice button with an easy to set up LED..  The cable is GENEROUS at 40" long!  The vast majority of them I only needed to be 6"-8" long.   I chose to cut all of them to proper length and re-terminate them with their 4 pin Dupont connectors.    Wiring isn't for everyone - but this may have been my favorite part of the project.  With mistakes and re-do's - I did over 100 little Dupont pins.

Testing each wire and configuring each LED one at a time was very satisfying.



I popped the CP off the box and zip tied and velcro'ed the harness in place for the coin buttons and the connector coming in the back of the panel.



Everything all wired up and tested.



Same thing - harness all zip tied into position.



Back in place.  It looks pretty official to me.  I suspect I'll be giving a few tours of the inside of the CP, the coin door and inside the cabinet.



Construction completed. 

I have a few wires to tidy up inside the cabinet and then install the rear panels.  I tried to get a decent pic of it in the shop - but its not possible with the lighting and all the other stuff in there..  I'll get some nicer ones once I move it.

My software on the other hand is still a mess...  I have considerable work to do to make the machine 'consumer ready'.   

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javeryh

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #138 on: June 19, 2018, 08:58:39 pm »
Sick job.  That's one of the cleanest CPs I've ever seen.   :applaud:

JudgeRob

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #139 on: July 10, 2018, 01:01:32 am »
Quote
The plan is to make them 'switchable' in the event I need to disable children from going crazy  :P

LOL, that's exactly what I did too.  Looks good dude.  I wish my wiring looked that nice and tidy.  :applaud:

Arroyo

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #140 on: July 10, 2018, 04:56:11 pm »
Update?

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #141 on: July 11, 2018, 01:34:00 am »
Yeah, where's the grand finale?

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #142 on: July 11, 2018, 02:39:33 am »
Looking good!  I like your workmanship.

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #143 on: July 11, 2018, 09:19:05 am »
Thanks everyone for the kind words and following along - I wanted to move the cabinet to a better location to get some pics - but it will need to hang out in the shop for a while so I can clean up the software.  That said - the project certainly deserves a construction summary:

My arcade cabinet started as an idea years ago when I discovered MAME and that I could play Centipede (my college game) exactly as I had then..  the desire to build one came and went until last year when I ran into a real Centipede cabinet that was operational but unplayable..  it was infuriating.

I spent about 6 months designing a cabinet in Sketchup, acquiring components and perusing the Arcade Controls Forum formulating and overall design.  In December of 2017 I started the actual cabinet construction.

The design goals were rather simple build a cabinet that was reasonably modular and that I could take apart if needed.  It has a relatively powerful PC so that I can add newer games down the line.  My research led me to a 32″ monitor to give the height needed for vertical games which seems to be working nicely.

Ultimately the machine will end up at our lake house once I get all of the software sorted.  Im using Bigbox as the front end and LED Blinky to show us all the buttons and controls for the games I dont know the pause/help feature is really useful.  Im also no artist so the overall look is pretty basic when it comes to that.  The control panel mirrors some design points of a Traditional Wooden Boat but overall I didnt want it to be too busy.

Construction complete!  Shop is all cleaned up and ready for the next project.





Dell PC, Coin door, Arcade power supply and small subwoofer for Jukebox mode.



Coin buttons under the CP on each side, lighted PC power switch and on the right volume up/down.



Moving handles and cooling fans so far the fans have not been needed..  Ill keep an eye on the cabinet heat.  They make a little more noise than I like maybe there is a variable speed fan controller/thermostat out there I can rig up..



Relatively slim profile overall less than 28″ deep.



The fun part wiring up the central nervous system.



Next steps are to start over on the software installation and create a little documentation to keep track of all the little changes and make it a bit more bulletproof.  Right now I have to jump through a bunch of steps to get it ready for someone to use.  Ill be pinging the forum for help on that too.  Maybe add some other emulators?  Not sure which ones even like arcade style controls.

Id like to create some side art that matches the lakeside theme that is quite the undertaking well see if I get that far.

We have a LOT of people who are ready to play some old school games.. I need to get the software done!

 
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Arroyo

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #144 on: July 11, 2018, 03:42:25 pm »
Nice and clean overall.  Love the coin box, gonna have to steal that one.  Keep the updates coming with the software side and if you decide to put any artwork on the side.  Nice work.

bperkins01

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #145 on: July 11, 2018, 09:16:44 pm »
Thanks Arroyo
Now your turn!!

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #146 on: July 11, 2018, 10:05:22 pm »
Thanks Arroyo
Now your turn!!

Hehe, your gonna have to give me some leasons[emoji6].  Seriously good job.

bperkins01

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #147 on: July 11, 2018, 10:12:21 pm »
Thanks - its a pretty solid build for a first attempt  :)

My sage advice:  just do a little every day - even if its picking up tools & cleaning for 10 minutes.  The project will never be on the back burner.
You can have all the lessons you want - I've been woodworking for 30 years+  that part's simple for me.  Its why I put so many details and pics in the thread  - I'm guessing the 'gamers' are much better at the games than I am and maybe construction isn't at the top of the list.. So its a good trade! 

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #148 on: July 11, 2018, 11:44:58 pm »

You can have all the lessons you want - I've been woodworking for 30 years+  that part's simple for me.  Its why I put so many details and pics in the thread  - I'm guessing the 'gamers' are much better at the games than I am and maybe construction isn't at the top of the list.. So its a good trade!

Yup woodworkings gonna be the toughest part for me, so being able to follow your thread will definitely help.  Electronics/Software is easier for me, so if I can help there let me know, but it looks like youre on solid ground.

javeryh

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #149 on: July 12, 2018, 09:37:49 am »
 :applaud: :applaud: :applaud:

GREAT job.  Nice clean lines and a personal theme.  It came out really nice.  Hopefully you will get hours and hours of enjoyment out of it.  The best part is discovering games you never played as a kid and adding them to the regular rotation.   :cheers:

bad_boo

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #150 on: July 12, 2018, 11:42:31 am »
OMG!! this is so beautiful. This is the model I will follow for sure, I have a model already but I can integrate the woodwork and the details you shared with us here.
And I hope can get it to look nice. If I get like 60% as nice as yours, I can be happy

My sage advice:  just do a little every day - even if its picking up tools & cleaning for 10 minutes.  The project will never be on the back burner.
You can have all the lessons you want - I've been woodworking for 30 years+  that part's simple for me.  Its why I put so many details and pics in the thread  - I'm guessing the 'gamers' are much better at the games than I am and maybe construction isn't at the top of the list.. So its a good trade! 
Yep, I fall in this category, so I will follow your advise here.
 :)
« Last Edit: July 12, 2018, 11:44:12 am by bad_boo »

bperkins01

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #151 on: July 12, 2018, 12:34:00 pm »
Thanks guys :)

I forgot to add - I uploaded my Sketchup Plans to the SKetchup 3DWarehouse Site.

Lakeside Aracde Cabinet Sketchup - 2017 Model

If anyone makes it - please let me know :)
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krangbrain

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #152 on: July 13, 2018, 12:45:11 pm »
This turned out to be a great, solid build! I like the clean control panel and profile; it's not too slim but not bulky at the same time. Very nicely done!

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #153 on: August 02, 2018, 09:23:30 pm »
One more feature added:

Keyboard Shelf:

Turns out there is a significant amount of keyboard work that you have to do at the machine so that you can set up Mame Software, the front end, buttons, LEDs, etc..

I had no real good way to use the keyboard and mouse and control panel...

So I came up with this.. A clip-on keyboard shelf.  Made out of all scrap I had laying around and $3.29 worth of 'L' brackets,

The metal 'L' brackets slide over the face of my CP box..



I cut the blocking to match the angle of the CP and carpeted the face of the supports that press against the CP front.  While I was at it - I added a back edge to keep things from sliding off.



Much easier!!  It will fit inside the cabinet for storage too once the keyboard works slows.. (if it ever slows..)


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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #154 on: August 06, 2018, 04:24:13 am »
(...)My top panel has cooling fans and hand holds.  Not sure the fans will even be necessary or if it will get hot inside the cabinet..  They are very quiet so it certainly cant hurt.


This is a great looking build, good work  :applaud:

One thing I have to ask though; how did you trim the laminate on the miter cuts?
I'm asking because I laminate my sides first and then make the angled cut to get then sharp - the chipping factor is a nightmare  :-\

/Nano

javeryh

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #155 on: August 06, 2018, 10:08:16 am »
One thing I have to ask though; how did you trim the laminate on the miter cuts?
I'm asking because I laminate my sides first and then make the angled cut to get then sharp - the chipping factor is a nightmare  :-\

/Nano

Cover the edge in painter's tape - this reduces chip out for the most part.  Also, use a router and a 45 degree bit - the table saw teeth will chew it up.

bperkins01

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Re: New Cabinet Build: Lakeside Arcade - plenty of pics.
« Reply #156 on: August 06, 2018, 10:36:45 am »
I had my 45's already cut before laminating.  However  - a sharp carbide blade will cut clean since the tablesaw cuts on the down stroke.

That said -
I added the laminate and cut it close to the sharp edge with the table saw.
Finally I finished with a SHARP block plane set to thin shavings.
If you cut at an angle and down toward the laminate face (it will feel weird since the angle is an undercut) - you will not have any chipping and you are only taking off the underside of the laminate for the most part.. 
Hopefully that makes sense..
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