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Author Topic: The Grid....  (Read 181548 times)

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Arroyo

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Re: The Grid....
« Reply #560 on: April 14, 2020, 07:20:37 pm »
You are motivating me to get going again.  Been a little bummed out during this quarantine to do much of anything.  :cheers:

Get after it!  I always look forward to your posts.

I thought the paint side in looks better and that was my opinion before reading any responses.

Thanks Gil!

Amazing attention to detail and how you managed to create all the complicated elements without using CNC router is just mind boggling to me. Respect.

What's been fun about learning new techniques is it has given me new ideas on what's possible.  Getting the circle jig and playing with it opened up routes I hadn't thought of before. 

Arroyo you are officially crazy.  We always knew it but I'm declaring it.  Awesome work.  A couple of things:

1.  The balls to cut the laminate and THEN try to line it up for the contact cement.  Damn.


I'm considering doing all my laminating like that now.   ;D

Seriously that is just bananas Arroyo. 

Hehe, it ain't that bad.  To be clear I only pre-cut the design.  I left the sides raw.  Spending some time aligning the disc and then some good clamping, and I was pretty confident it would work with the two stage contact cement.  The technique does open up some interesting possibilities.  I hope to use it again some time in the future.

wp34

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Re: The Grid....
« Reply #561 on: April 14, 2020, 07:31:42 pm »
Hehe, it ain't that bad.  To be clear I only pre-cut the design.  I left the sides raw.  Spending some time aligning the disc and then some good clamping, and I was pretty confident it would work with the two stage contact cement.  The technique does open up some interesting possibilities.  I hope to use it again some time in the future.

Your technique reminds me a little of applying a CPO but the difficulty and stakes are much higher.  Pretty cool stuff Arroyo.   :cheers:

Arroyo

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Re: The Grid....
« Reply #562 on: April 22, 2020, 02:49:45 pm »
Your technique reminds me a little of applying a CPO but the difficulty and stakes are much higher.  Pretty cool stuff Arroyo.   :cheers:

I’d say it’s almost exactly like that.


Quick update to get the door in place.

Glued the lower support piece as I’ve realized how freaking strong glue is, so no need for blocking:



Next was building a sort of french cleat for the lower half of the door.  I originally had the back door on hinges, but after realizing that all my original cabs didn’t have it, and that it needs a big swing space, and it’s a lot more work, I opted against it.



Simple 1.5” x 0.5” poplar wood blocking, with a half inch over hang.

Next was putting in the lock.  I played with this on some scrap until I figured it out.  Drilled the 3.4” hole with forstner bit about half way  (23mm from top edge). 



Then used a small drill bit to follow the center and drill through the other side.



I’ve found this works great to prevent blow out.  Flip the piece over and drill back with the same bit.  Only thing was these locks require removal of some material.  So before drilling back again on the other side I first put the hole template on top and used the 1.5” forstner that made the hole to center it on that hole from the other side.  Spun it a few times by hand to make sure it was centered, and pulled it away to mark it with the white color pencil:





Then finished the 3/4” hole through to meet with the other side.


Then put that hole template on top and got a nice 1/4” inlay around the center using the router and tracer bit:



I have some Atari vector cabs, and have noticed that where the lock meets the wood it has a tendency to eat away at the wood over time.  So I bought these 1.5” strike plates:



Thanks for the input on the direction of the discs everyone.  After thinking about it I opted to go paint side in.  The reason is that it just happens that the discs lines up well with the coin door opening, and it will be easier to show it by opening the coin door then pulling the whole cab out:



Full size shots:





I’ve decided to hold off on the spikes area for now.  Some marquee work left, and then it’s on to the control panel :scared

Laythe

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Re: The Grid....
« Reply #563 on: April 22, 2020, 03:41:51 pm »
Man that's clean. 

Looking great, I'm stoked to see this coming together.   :applaud:

bperkins01

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Re: The Grid....
« Reply #564 on: April 22, 2020, 03:50:39 pm »
Very Nice -
Looking very home stretchy....

 :applaud:
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Re: The Grid....
« Reply #565 on: April 22, 2020, 04:10:52 pm »
Arroyo's work is pure cabinet porn.

The bit about the lock is actually helpful for what I need to do on my silly little project.

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Re: The Grid....
« Reply #566 on: May 03, 2020, 02:59:24 pm »
This is really coming together nicely!  Amazing and inspiring Arroyo.   :applaud:

uptown47

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Re: The Grid....
« Reply #567 on: May 04, 2020, 06:53:00 am »
This really shows what can be achieved with oodles of talent. An amazing cabinet!! I really love the explanations you give too. It's really helpful for a woodworking "newbie" such as myself. Thanks :-)

Arroyo

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Re: The Grid....
« Reply #568 on: May 04, 2020, 02:32:43 pm »
Hey thanks guys.  I'm really just replicating what others have done here, but yeah, I'd be lying if I said I wasn't happy with how I've been able to apply it.  I do have a couple of ideas that I don't think have been done, so if I can contribute another idea/perspective then that will make me happy.

Haven't been able to make any progress as I've been working on the honey-do list.  Re-sanded and oiled our outside furniture which I wouldn't have had the confidence to do had it not been for what I've learned on this project.

I'll be tackling the control panel soon here.  Stay tuned.

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Re: The Grid....
« Reply #569 on: May 04, 2020, 03:09:29 pm »
no, on the backside of your test CP panel where you drilled a hole out.

Ah.  That’s this guy:

https://a.aliexpress.com/_dTg2dOS

Page bookmarked, thank you.
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Generic Eric

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Re: The Grid....
« Reply #570 on: May 07, 2020, 10:03:35 pm »
Your technique reminds me a little of applying a CPO but the difficulty and stakes are much higher.  Pretty cool stuff Arroyo.   :cheers:

I’d say it’s almost exactly like that.


Quick update to get the door in place.

Full size shots:



Dang!  Nice

uptown47

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Re: The Grid....
« Reply #571 on: May 11, 2020, 02:54:10 am »
Hi Arroyo

Have you got some sort of 'edging' around the inside of these holes (in the photo)?

I'm looking for some sort of nice edging for around the holes I've cut out to hold light-guns. Is it just edging tape or something else?

Thanks :-)

Arroyo

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Re: The Grid....
« Reply #572 on: May 12, 2020, 12:27:47 pm »
Hi Arroyo

Have you got some sort of 'edging' around the inside of these holes (in the photo)?

I'm looking for some sort of nice edging for around the holes I've cut out to hold light-guns. Is it just edging tape or something else?

Thanks :-)

Sorry was a busy day yesterday.  Are you referring to the sides of the discs?  If so that is paint.  If you look up on my previous posts you'll see the process I went through.  Or maybe you are referring to something else?

uptown47

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Re: The Grid....
« Reply #573 on: May 12, 2020, 02:16:00 pm »
Yes, the sides of the disc. I didn't realise it was just paint. I must have missed the info on that. I'll read back and find it. Thanks :-)

Arroyo

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Re: The Grid....
« Reply #574 on: May 18, 2020, 04:49:12 pm »
@ GenericEric - Thanks!

Started on the Control Panel box, this one has proven to be a little tricky.

Usual print the plans, tape and trace with straight edge where possible:



The tuff part was that piece at the bottom of the picture (which was off slightly due to an oversight, and I had to reprint).  That piece (and it’s mirror) were designed to wrap around that larger curve.  The challenge was getting the slope of the box (6 degrees) to match up all around.  Fortunately using SketchUp I was able to get the curve to unfold into 2D (using the “unwrap” plugin).

To get the correct circle cut out I used one of the corners of the 1/2” piece of wood for the CP top, and used the circle jig on the router to get the correct size:



Then attached it to the underside of the CP which I already cut all the straight lines:



Used the flush trim bit on the router to get the finished corner:



Next was tackling those side pieces.  I actually ended up with two, one represented the exterior, and one the interior:



The exterior is longer while the interior is taller.  You can see the exterior on top of the interior print above.  You’ll notice how its longer, and you can also see at the top the interior poking up.  This is because of the 6 deg slope.  The higher edge is on the inside.  Hopefully this makes sense.

Anyway the real challenge began with attempting the kerf cuts to make the bend.  I used the kerfing calculator here: 

https://www.blocklayer.com/kerf-spacingeng.aspx

It was very helpful, you just need to know the radius of your curve, the angle it will be bending (“Curve Sweep Angle”), width of your blade, and wood thickness.



I had done kerfing before with the base, but it was stiff.  I did a practice piece to make sure I knew what I was doing and it came out great:



I then tried it on the actual piece and it wouldn’t budge.  I was scratching my head a lot thinking maybe it was the difference in wood species, or maybe the depth of cut was different.  Reached out to bperkins (as usual), and he asked what the direction of the grain was that I was cutting?  Hmm….light bulb went off after he explained it.  I thought it might be helpful to share.

Here is rough cut cross section of the wood (it’s easier to see when it’s ruff cut):



Plywood rotates between layers the direction of the grain.  The Red arrow layers (yes veneer exterior as well) are running left to right, while the black arrow layers are running forward and backward.  You want the bottom layer (don’t count veneer as bottom layer) to be running North and South for a bend that goes left and right.  If you had the Red arrows on the bottom then it will be stiff.

Here are two virtually identical set of cuts:



The top one bends by lifting it with a finger, the bottom one I can hardly bend.  In my testing I had to cut just a little bit into that bottom layer to get it to bend easily.  Here’s an example of how easily it should bend:



And wrapped around the curve:



From the back:



On it’s side:



Quickly thrown up on the machine just to feel like there’s progress:



Lot’s to do, but thankfully the rona has yielded more garage time.
« Last Edit: May 18, 2020, 05:56:17 pm by Arroyo »

bperkins01

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Re: The Grid....
« Reply #575 on: May 18, 2020, 05:51:32 pm »
Nice update!!
Well done  :applaud:

The major building finish line is in sight :)

Then its all CP.
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Re: The Grid....
« Reply #576 on: May 18, 2020, 07:30:38 pm »
Nice info on the kerf-cutting. Looks great!


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Re: The Grid....
« Reply #577 on: May 19, 2020, 06:46:54 am »
I've never heard of "kerf" cuts. Love your posts there's always lots to learn. Your control panel looks absolutely superb!! Great work (as always!). :-)

bperkins01

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Re: The Grid....
« Reply #578 on: May 19, 2020, 06:51:04 am »
ok - the lower lip is on.. now if you put the teeth in and add two big teeth coming out of the upper circles - your Decepticon cabinet will be ready!   :laugh2:
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Re: The Grid....
« Reply #579 on: June 02, 2020, 09:37:59 am »
Kerfing is fun, not too hard once you set it up right, and surprisingly strong.  There are also a lot of Youtube videos on it with detailed instructions.

Moving along. 


I debated for awhile on how to get this thing on a hinge.  I figured that the only solution would be European hinges.  I looked over the two 90’s cabs that I have and they did a neat trick of cutting out a recess for a piano hinge and it hides it quite well.  I wanted to get things done with the time I had and quick internet searches only yielded larger piano hinges, so off I went:



The nice part about these things is that they let you adjust the position AFTER installation & they have a latch so you can remove them quickly and work on things.  So you can be a little less precise on the installation and make up for it with the adjustments after.  I had designed the CP to have a roughly 1/2” overhang.  This presented problems.  These hinges (Blum Full Overlay 170 deg) are really designed for cabinets, and having that much of an overhang meant it would’t open up properly.  So I played with inlaying the hinges by 2/8” which helped, but I ultimately had to shave back the front of the CP to about 1/4” to clear the swing:



Learned a lot about installing these, and the two critical parts are the distance of both the cup to the edge, and mount latch to edge.  You can get a decent amount of play left and right on install, just not up and down.

To be accurate with the install I started doing this:



This punch came with my Makita drill set, and because the laminate can be sort of slippery, I used a hammer to punch in a groove so that my drill bits wouldn’t walk on me when getting the hole started.  Not as necessary on wood, as you can just push into it to create a groove.

Needed to round the back parts of the CP box, and the design called for a 1” radius.  So needed to buy a 1” roundover bit for the router.   Trouble was they only come in 1/2” shanks, and I only have 1/4” collets on my routers, so…..off to the store again.  I’d been wanting a 1/2” collet router for awhile and bperkins, and MikeA sold me on Porter Cable.  It is a really nice piece of equipment.  Mounted in the Ryobi universal router table:



It’s a big bit and this table worked well enough:



Filled in the top and bottom layers of the Kerfs just to keep stuff out of it and to maybe paint (not really needed for strength):





And then began the process of laminating interior:



And exterior:







Didn’t have a lot of time to take pictures.  The back 1” radius curves (right side in picture above), where just enough to crack the laminate on a cold bend.  I had to break out the heat gun and with the help of my brother in law we got it done.  If I were to do it over again I would do it in 2 parts.  Laminate the front just after the big curve so it’s stuck in place.  Then apply the heat gun to bend the 1” radius curves and take your time.  Then come back and laminate with your laminate pre-bent.  We did it all at once and the rush to get the bend done on both sides while the contact cement has it’s “open time” was stressful, unnecessary and more prone for mistakes.

Mistake:



Rushed to put things on I wasn’t careful where I was pushing and pushed on the edge of the material and cracked it which went into the piece.  Thankfully I had purchased with the laminate some color matched caulking:



Works surprisingly well:



Installed CP box:






I need to install some of the outlets for the connections into the CP, and then it’s off to laser etching, printing art, and cutting holes in the CP top.  Feels like I am finally getting over the hump.
« Last Edit: June 17, 2020, 01:01:18 pm by Arroyo »

Mike A

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Re: The Grid....
« Reply #580 on: June 02, 2020, 09:49:12 am »
The finish line is in sight.

I hope that thing is either in your house, or not finished by the time I show up at the end of July.

You will owe me big time if I have to help you move that beast.

I look forward to seeing what I can do for you as far as laser etching.

I admire your attention to detail. I just don't have that in me.

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Re: The Grid....
« Reply #581 on: June 02, 2020, 09:50:47 am »
That is looking amazing!!

I used those Blum hinges on my cabinet and bought this little jig (https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00GSR51YY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) which really helped to get the holes spot on.

:-)

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Re: The Grid....
« Reply #582 on: June 02, 2020, 09:57:06 am »
Nicely executed.

You are way over the hump  :applaud:
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Re: The Grid....
« Reply #583 on: June 02, 2020, 09:57:17 am »
Nice progress!....are you sure that thing will fit through a doorway or be stuck in the garage forever. :)

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Re: The Grid....
« Reply #584 on: June 02, 2020, 09:58:33 am »
Nice progress!....are you sure that thing will fit through a doorway or be stuck in the garage forever. :)
Its set up to chomp right through...
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Re: The Grid....
« Reply #585 on: June 02, 2020, 10:40:36 am »
If you aren’t widening the door to your house to get it in, you’re doing something wrong

Mike A

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Re: The Grid....
« Reply #586 on: June 02, 2020, 10:57:46 am »
Demolition is my specialty.

Should I pack my sledge, crowbar and sawzall?

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Re: The Grid....
« Reply #587 on: June 02, 2020, 10:59:29 am »
Demolition is my specialty.

Should I pack my sledge, crowbar and sawzall?
Be careful - your house may flood and you will need to lay that cabinet down and row it out..   :laugh2:
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Re: The Grid....
« Reply #588 on: June 02, 2020, 11:06:09 am »
I am a precision demolition expert.

I resent the insinuation that I would rupture a water line....on accident.

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Re: The Grid....
« Reply #589 on: June 02, 2020, 12:09:33 pm »
Your technique reminds me a little of applying a CPO but the difficulty and stakes are much higher.  Pretty cool stuff Arroyo.   :cheers:

I’d say it’s almost exactly like that.


Quick update to get the door in place.

Full size shots:



Dang!  Nice
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Re: The Grid....
« Reply #590 on: June 02, 2020, 01:11:31 pm »
If you aren’t widening the door to your house to get it in, you’re doing something wrong

Hah! I've got the same issue with mine. I think mine will just fit if I remove the side cup-holders. I can only put it in one room in my house, though, because it won't fit through any interior doors...
KINGCADE - my Steampunk Wild West penny arcade-style cabinet
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,161105.msg1697383.html#msg1697383

jdbailey1206

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Re: The Grid....
« Reply #591 on: June 03, 2020, 09:55:37 am »
I am a precision demolition expert.

I resent the insinuation that I would rupture a water line....on accident.

Water lines never get ruptured during demolition.  Also I have never experienced the following:

  • Undocumented asbestos is never found
  • Subs don't misidentify live lines
  • Layouts are always correct
  • Prime contractors never change things for their benefit
  • Change orders are never required
  • Equipment never breaks down
  • Operators / Laborers never bend structural steel
  • Neighboring buildings are never damaged
  • Fiber Optic lines always remain undamaged
  • Personal injury never happens

If you aren’t widening the door to your house to get it in, you’re doing something wrong

Hah! I've got the same issue with mine. I think mine will just fit if I remove the side cup-holders. I can only put it in one room in my house, though, because it won't fit through any interior doors...
Now Im starting to worry about starting my new build in my basement.  I am 99.9% sure it will fit through my basement door if I move but I better measure once and cut twice.

bperkins01

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Re: The Grid....
« Reply #592 on: June 03, 2020, 09:57:35 am »
No Problem - If Gibbs can get a boat out of his basement - you're good   :P
My Arcade Cabinet Build and other projects here:
Centipede, Joust, Joust Cocktail, Asteroids, Galaga, Ms. Pacman Cabaret, Defender, Space Invaders Cocktail
https://bperkins.wordpress.com/

Arroyo

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Re: The Grid....
« Reply #593 on: June 03, 2020, 11:25:33 am »
Now Im starting to worry about starting my new build in my basement.  I am 99.9% sure it will fit through my basement door if I move but I better measure once and cut twice.

I spent A LOT of time looking up door frame sizes cause I was worried about this too.  It’s why I have the control panel easily removable, but yeah it’s inherently a design challenge with a widescreen display....unless rotated vertically.

Vigo

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Re: The Grid....
« Reply #594 on: June 05, 2020, 10:23:03 am »
One thing is true about this hobby. You sure end up knowing much more about door frame sizes than you would expect.


I had no clue color matched caulk was a thing. Can you get that at most big box stores?

And I just come to say I love that kerf work. Top notch with the whole CP.  :cheers:


jdbailey1206

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Re: The Grid....
« Reply #595 on: June 05, 2020, 10:55:42 am »
I had no clue color matched caulk was a thing. Can you get that at most big box stores?

I have only seen one version at Home Depot made by Red Devil.  I haven't used it but the reviews are good.  Im still trying to figure out what application it could be used for.

Vigo

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Re: The Grid....
« Reply #596 on: June 05, 2020, 11:33:51 am »
I had no clue color matched caulk was a thing. Can you get that at most big box stores?

I have only seen one version at Home Depot made by Red Devil.  I haven't used it but the reviews are good.  Im still trying to figure out what application it could be used for.

Can't let white caulk be used in granny's pink and purple bathroom.

Arroyo

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Re: The Grid....
« Reply #597 on: June 05, 2020, 11:48:43 am »
I had no clue color matched caulk was a thing. Can you get that at most big box stores?

Dunno, I imagine so.  As you may have noticed in the picture, the caulking is actually put out by Wilson Art.  I imagine Formica does the same.  I bought mine from cabinetparts.com when I ordered my laminate.

Quote
And I just come to say I love that kerf work. Top notch with the whole CP.  :cheers:
:cheers:


I/m still trying to figure out what application it could be used for.

It's a good question. Other than what I posted above, the most handy place was in interior corners.  If you don't perfectly get your laminate in the corner, the caulking covers up the mistake nicely.

jdbailey1206

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Re: The Grid....
« Reply #598 on: June 05, 2020, 01:23:00 pm »
Yup.  Not the best timing for that joke...
« Last Edit: June 05, 2020, 02:23:44 pm by jdbailey1206 »

yotsuya

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« Last Edit: June 05, 2020, 02:34:34 pm by yotsuya »
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