| Arcade Collecting > Restorations & repair |
| Sega turbo restore |
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| orion:
--- Quote from: jennifer on October 08, 2017, 05:24:42 pm --- OH FOR FUN!! Don't feel cheated just yet, as we can fix this.... Thing with mice, is the urine is corrosive, and they chew wire, First get a couple of these, http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1308336 and set them in the bottom as your working on this machine, (replace them as necessary) and starting at the top, start with a warm bleach water rag on the wood working down removing things, and replacing corroded hardware as necessary (ammonia and bleach DO NOT MIX) so use ventilating precautions....As you are cleaning , keep a sharp eye for chewed wire, It doesn't need to be done all at once, those sponges actually work, and will remove the smell as you work, not just mask it .... I would use a vacuum and respirator rather than compressed air as you remove things, and clean, clean, clean. --- End quote --- I got most of the loose stuff out of the bottom of the cab (still a rats nest in the marquee, and I need to drill the lock to the coin box, so don't know what's in there). I took the game into my driveway and used my shop vac and leaf blower, wore a dust mask. Unfortunately the transformer, power supply, audio amp fuse blocks and what I'm guessing is a regulator are all encrusted in dried droppings. I can't get it off with a brush even, so I know I'm going to have to douse those parts with a hose and some simple green or something and a brush. The cab is entirely plywood it seems and has been painted inside and out, so I'm going to remove the monitor, PCB and some other PCBs that are unique to this game and just go to town. Planning to hit the insides that aren't electrical with a strong solution of soap and bleach with a scrub brush. After that my plan is to just dry everything as best I can and then saturate all the electronics in the bottom of the cab with isopropyl alcohol. My thinking is that the alcohol will displace as much of the water as possible and will evaporate much more quickly. I plan on letting the electronics dry for a couple of weeks or months while I do the work to the cab. I feel like I'm going to have to be supper aggressive with the cleaning because it's really nasty and my son has bad allergies. Don't want this in the house unless I can get all the mouse waste out of it. If anything it will be good exercise in how far you can push cleaning a machine without totally destroying it. I've thought it though though and I do think I can save it. |
| jennifer:
You should just replace the fuse blocks, that's problem area on a good day, But yes most everything else can be washed, even the boards and monitor, the platting on brackets and such most likely has been compromised by the corrosive and probably has already started to rust, Caswell makes a really awesome home plating kit, (Few years ago we would be discussing Jenns big acid vats ;)) or just replace them, most of that stuff is pretty easy to find.... And those Oder sponges really do work, set them in there as you work on this thing, Over time they will turn black as they suck up the smell, yes you heard that right, SUCK UP THE SMELL, not just mask it, totally amazing....don't saturate the cab with wet, as it dries it will cause the edges to separate, You will be better off to clean multiple times less aggressively. |
| orion:
--- Quote from: jennifer on October 09, 2017, 02:47:12 pm --- You should just replace the fuse blocks, that's problem area on a good day, But yes most everything else can be washed, even the boards and monitor, the platting on brackets and such most likely has been compromised by the corrosive and probably has already started to rust, Caswell makes a really awesome home plating kit, (Few years ago we would be discussing Jenns big acid vats ;)) or just replace them, most of that stuff is pretty easy to find.... And those Oder sponges really do work, set them in there as you work on this thing, Over time they will turn black as they suck up the smell, yes you heard that right, SUCK UP THE SMELL, not just mask it, totally amazing....don't saturate the cab with wet, as it dries it will cause the edges to separate, You will be better off to clean multiple times less aggressively. --- End quote --- I hope I don't have any serious corrosion on any of those boards, they seem to work though. I'm familiar with the home plating kits and the electolosis rust remover methods and aluminum anodizing . They all seem pretty neat, and it's really cool what you can do at home. Some of those processes involve some caustic stuff though. Those sponges do look pretty cool! I'll probably pick up a few for some of my other cabs at some point. This cabs pretty solid, I think the top is made from either particle board or chip board... can't really tell by looking at it, as it's really that dirty. I can probably get away with a bleach rubdown on the sides, but I'm going to have to soak the bottom of the cab. If I have to replace it, I can deal with that. |
| orion:
I took the machine apart and doused everything with a garden hose, simple green and dishwashing detergent. The cabinet didn't seem to suffer for it any and it was completely dry in a few hours. It was in the mid 80s this weekend. Next weekend I'll put it all back together and see if the electronics are in the same shape as they were before I took the hose to them. |
| nitrogen_widget:
I was going to say dishwasher without the heated dry phase, let then air dry and hit them with the air hose to make sure you root out any water in the nooks and crannies. Now's a good time to check all the solder joints and traces on the boards. |
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