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Author Topic: New member, new to cabinet design, first build coming..  (Read 1623 times)

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WetpantsMcGee

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New member, new to cabinet design, first build coming..
« on: September 05, 2017, 05:39:36 pm »
Hi guys!

Just joined the forum as I've recently started venturing into building my own arcade cabinet.  I got into tinkering with Raspberry Pis and thought I could turn it into a (relatively) cheap arcade build project.  Haven't made too much progress so far other than getting a few plywood boards and appropriate tools to cut the sides of my future machine, as well as ordering an X-Arcade Tankstick.  I figure this will be a work-in-progress for a while, as I'm piecing it together as my budget allows.  Here's what I'm planning on using for now:

-3/4" birch plywood for the main cab
-RPi 3 for the main board (Possibly a PC in the future, but I live in Arizona and I fear the heat will destroy it)
-27" monitor for the screen (Still shopping around, nothing fancy but low-latency preferred)
-At least a 2.1 home theater receiver for the audio (Could use recommendations for 8-ohm speakers)
-I will be rewiring an old DVC car subwoofer to 8-ohms that I hope I can use with the receiver, but I assume I will run into problems
-Lighted marquee
-Coin slots
-Fans in the top and rear

I wanted to do this so I could have some gaming sessions in my garage whenever people visit, and just to be able to say I did it myself.  Any recommendations/tips/"don't-do-thats" would be appreciated!

 

WetpantsMcGee

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Re: New member, new to cabinet design, first build coming..
« Reply #1 on: September 05, 2017, 05:50:04 pm »
Here are the sides I've cut.  Still need to round some corners and the edges.

WetpantsMcGee

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Re: New member, new to cabinet design, first build coming..
« Reply #2 on: September 06, 2017, 12:20:37 pm »
So I know I'm getting ahead of myself, but this little project seems to occupy my brain every waking moment..

-What would be the best way to decorate the outside of this thing?  I've been reading that paint on plywood is not the best option.  I was thinking of a NeoGeo theme but I feel it wouldn't look right with the Tankstick setup.  Then I thought a Street Fighter III theme, as that is one of my all-time arcade favorites.  How would I go about this?  A vinyl wrap, or laminate sides?  I really don't have a clue where to begin on this.

-Mounting the monitor.  I'm looking for a screen with VESA compatibility, as I figure a mounting bracket would offer some flexibility for adjustments as opposed to bolting it to a backboard.  Also, where can I find a trimmable bezel for flat-panels?  Should I get a plexi overlay, and where is a good place to find those?

-Should I bother routing the edges for a rounded look, or go with T-molding?

Thanks guys, I'm eagerly awaiting Friday when my sticks should arrive.  Then I can start getting the cab together once I have some precise measurements.


Mike A

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Re: New member, new to cabinet design, first build coming..
« Reply #3 on: September 06, 2017, 12:22:10 pm »
Think CRT.

WetpantsMcGee

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Re: New member, new to cabinet design, first build coming..
« Reply #4 on: September 06, 2017, 12:32:37 pm »
Think CRT.

I tossed around the idea of a CRT in the design stage, but was worried about the mounting depth.  I'll probably only have about 14" at the center of the screen.  Is this feasible?

Mike A

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Re: New member, new to cabinet design, first build coming..
« Reply #5 on: September 06, 2017, 12:36:33 pm »


You could always do this if it doesn't fit.

WetpantsMcGee

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Re: New member, new to cabinet design, first build coming..
« Reply #6 on: September 06, 2017, 12:44:56 pm »


You could always do this if it doesn't fit.

Hmm..  Now you've got my gears working

How would I get a CRT hooked into an HDMI-based system?

Mike A

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Re: New member, new to cabinet design, first build coming..
« Reply #7 on: September 06, 2017, 12:52:53 pm »
I almost have you.
Now ditch the Pi and get a PC.

There are multiple ways to connect a PC to a CRT.
There are many front end choices with a PC.
Emulation is generally better with a PC, though the Pi 3 I understand is narrowing that gap.

WetpantsMcGee

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Re: New member, new to cabinet design, first build coming..
« Reply #8 on: September 06, 2017, 01:08:50 pm »
Great, now you've got me re-thinking all over again.  I do have an old Dell mini-PC sitting around that I could get up and running again; however the cooling system in it is complete crap.  My biggest concern with a PC is that this cab is going to be in a garage where the temps can get to 120įF.  A liquid-cooled rig would be far out of my budget  :'(

Now I'm browsing Google looking at used CRTs..

Mike A

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Re: New member, new to cabinet design, first build coming..
« Reply #9 on: September 06, 2017, 01:18:17 pm »
If budget is a large concern you can hit Craigslist for CRT tvs, or Goodwill. Try your friends and neighbors. The TV I use for my console games was sitting in a neighbor's basement. She was happy to be rid of it for free.

Drnick

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Re: New member, new to cabinet design, first build coming..
« Reply #10 on: September 06, 2017, 02:23:52 pm »
Do it, Go CRT and PC.  You can get new fans for the Dell or Jerry rig something. Oh and nobody is really going to be playing the machine in the garage if its 120 degrees. They gonna be chilling out the pool, the fridge, somewhere with aircon  >:D (122 is 50 for those that use the other temp gauge). PC Motherboard will be fine in that temp switched off though.   

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Re: New member, new to cabinet design, first build coming..
« Reply #11 on: September 06, 2017, 02:36:03 pm »
Put the PC in the house. Run a video cable and USB cable through the wall into the garage. Get creative.

WetpantsMcGee

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Re: New member, new to cabinet design, first build coming..
« Reply #12 on: September 06, 2017, 02:49:02 pm »
Craigslist is great for CRTs.  I've found a few around here for $15, so that may be the way to go.

gumby510

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Re: New member, new to cabinet design, first build coming..
« Reply #13 on: September 06, 2017, 04:45:19 pm »
Craigslist is great for CRTs.  I've found a few around here for $15, so that may be the way to go.

Dam where do you live where the garage gets that hot. I have mine in my garage in Vegas. I use it at night on the weekends. I also have one of those corsair water coolers so temps are fine.


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WetpantsMcGee

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Re: New member, new to cabinet design, first build coming..
« Reply #14 on: September 06, 2017, 04:51:35 pm »
Craigslist is great for CRTs.  I've found a few around here for $15, so that may be the way to go.

Dam where do you live where the garage gets that hot. I have mine in my garage in Vegas. I use it at night on the weekends. I also have one of those corsair water coolers so temps are fine.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Scottsdale AZ.  It's usually only June/July where it can get that high.  If I had the money to build a system with a water cooler I wouldn't be worried.  Might just fix up that Dell and run it until it blows, it's only a Core2 and it's not being used anyways.

yotsuya

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Re: New member, new to cabinet design, first build coming..
« Reply #15 on: September 06, 2017, 10:23:32 pm »
I live in AZ (and work in Scottsdale) and have been doing this since 2010. The heat won't affect your cab if you put in a fan. It's all good.
***Build what you dig, bro. Build what you dig.***

WetpantsMcGee

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Re: New member, new to cabinet design, first build coming..
« Reply #16 on: September 07, 2017, 04:26:06 pm »
I live in AZ (and work in Scottsdale) and have been doing this since 2010. The heat won't affect your cab if you put in a fan. It's all good.

I will trust your expertise on this.  A new SSD and a good cleanout should be all it needs.

WetpantsMcGee

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Re: New member, new to cabinet design, first build coming..
« Reply #17 on: September 07, 2017, 05:51:45 pm »
Did some rounding on the sides.  Came out decent with the exception of a couple mistakes.  Don't have a whole lot of experience with jigsaws, but I guess I have to start somewhere.  Next stop, routing the edges and the sticks come tomorrow.

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Re: New member, new to cabinet design, first build coming..
« Reply #18 on: September 14, 2017, 06:00:38 pm »
About 60% done with the cab itself.  You can't really tell by the photo but despite measuring everything thrice, the pieces aren't lining up quite how I wanted them.  I'm not that worried as I'm taking this as a learning experience.  A few things I've taken away so far..

-A jigsaw is NOT a good tool for making beveled edges.
-Always overestimate slightly when measuring lines for cutting.
-This is much more labor intensive than I had anticipated, but I enjoy working out in the garage.
-Don't use X-Arcade stuff.  It would have been far easier to make my own CP than to try working around a pre-built setup.

I feel like this is probably going to take another few weeks to complete.  I still need to track down a receiver and a monitor (Sorry guys, I decided to go that route as it's easier for my first build and I have less space than previously thought). 

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Re: New member, new to cabinet design, first build coming..
« Reply #19 on: September 14, 2017, 06:17:49 pm »
Do you have a coin door already?  If not, I live in Scottsdale as well and have a spare over/under I could let go cheap.  Let me know.

WetpantsMcGee

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Re: New member, new to cabinet design, first build coming..
« Reply #20 on: November 05, 2017, 09:51:01 pm »
So here's the build, I'd say around 90% done.  Still filling the gaps and doing prepwork.  Haven't decided between paint or spending the money on a full vinyl kit.  Definitely worth the time invested; our Sunday Windjammers sessions have been intense!

Ian

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Re: New member, new to cabinet design, first build coming..
« Reply #21 on: November 05, 2017, 10:41:11 pm »
So here's the build, I'd say around 90% done.  Still filling the gaps and doing prepwork.  Haven't decided between paint or spending the money on a full vinyl kit.  Definitely worth the time invested; our Sunday Windjammers sessions have been intense!

I am a paint guy and had no issues. Either way works fine. Just make sure if you do use paint make sure it is an Enamel. Anything else will not dry hard enough. Oil enamels dry harder than waterbased enamels. But again both will work for what you are doing. Use a halfway decent primer. Anything similar to Zinser 123 or Sherwin Williams Problock will work, just make sure you tint the primer to your top coat color. If you do go full Neo Geo red, go with a gray primer, which helps absorb light and will make coverage better. Also if you do go full on Neo Geo red, make sure the base of paint they start with is Red. See usually there are three bases of paint, White, Deep (looks white but its a bit translucent), Ultradeep (super translucent and used to tint dark and very vivid colors). Quality paints however do have Yellow and Red bases. I know for a fact Sherwin Williams does, I am sure Ben Moore and Behr Marquee do as well. This will turn your 7 coats of red to a more manageable 2 coats of red. If you have any questions message me.

If you decide to go black, lots of companies have prepackaged black paint. Always go prepackaged, far better than getting 20 ounces of black tint in an Ultradeep base. When that happens the top coat takes forever to dry and you end up with a surface that stays pretty tacky and soft. Go prepackaged!

Good luck!
Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin to slit throats.

WetpantsMcGee

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Re: New member, new to cabinet design, first build coming..
« Reply #22 on: November 05, 2017, 10:57:08 pm »
So here's the build, I'd say around 90% done.  Still filling the gaps and doing prepwork.  Haven't decided between paint or spending the money on a full vinyl kit.  Definitely worth the time invested; our Sunday Windjammers sessions have been intense!

I am a paint guy and had no issues. Either way works fine. Just make sure if you do use paint make sure it is an Enamel. Anything else will not dry hard enough. Oil enamels dry harder than waterbased enamels. But again both will work for what you are doing. Use a halfway decent primer. Anything similar to Zinser 123 or Sherwin Williams Problock will work, just make sure you tint the primer to your top coat color. If you do go full Neo Geo red, go with a gray primer, which helps absorb light and will make coverage better. Also if you do go full on Neo Geo red, make sure the base of paint they start with is Red. See usually there are three bases of paint, White, Deep (looks white but its a bit translucent), Ultradeep (super translucent and used to tint dark and very vivid colors). Quality paints however do have Yellow and Red bases. I know for a fact Sherwin Williams does, I am sure Ben Moore and Behr Marquee do as well. This will turn your 7 coats of red to a more manageable 2 coats of red. If you have any questions message me.

If you decide to go black, lots of companies have prepackaged black paint. Always go prepackaged, far better than getting 20 ounces of black tint in an Ultradeep base. When that happens the top coat takes forever to dry and you end up with a surface that stays pretty tacky and soft. Go prepackaged!

Good luck!

Awesome, great info!  :applaud:

I had heard some negative points about painting plywood so I had been a little turned off to the idea.  Sounds like it's just a case of using the right paint!

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Re: New member, new to cabinet design, first build coming..
« Reply #23 on: November 05, 2017, 11:04:00 pm »
So here's the build, I'd say around 90% done.  Still filling the gaps and doing prepwork.  Haven't decided between paint or spending the money on a full vinyl kit.  Definitely worth the time invested; our Sunday Windjammers sessions have been intense!

I am a paint guy and had no issues. Either way works fine. Just make sure if you do use paint make sure it is an Enamel. Anything else will not dry hard enough. Oil enamels dry harder than waterbased enamels. But again both will work for what you are doing. Use a halfway decent primer. Anything similar to Zinser 123 or Sherwin Williams Problock will work, just make sure you tint the primer to your top coat color. If you do go full Neo Geo red, go with a gray primer, which helps absorb light and will make coverage better. Also if you do go full on Neo Geo red, make sure the base of paint they start with is Red. See usually there are three bases of paint, White, Deep (looks white but its a bit translucent), Ultradeep (super translucent and used to tint dark and very vivid colors). Quality paints however do have Yellow and Red bases. I know for a fact Sherwin Williams does, I am sure Ben Moore and Behr Marquee do as well. This will turn your 7 coats of red to a more manageable 2 coats of red. If you have any questions message me.

If you decide to go black, lots of companies have prepackaged black paint. Always go prepackaged, far better than getting 20 ounces of black tint in an Ultradeep base. When that happens the top coat takes forever to dry and you end up with a surface that stays pretty tacky and soft. Go prepackaged!

Good luck!

Awesome, great info!  :applaud:

I had heard some negative points about painting plywood so I had been a little turned off to the idea.  Sounds like it's just a case of using the right paint!

What issues have you heard?
Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin to slit throats.

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Re: New member, new to cabinet design, first build coming..
« Reply #24 on: November 05, 2017, 11:58:52 pm »
So here's the build, I'd say around 90% done.  Still filling the gaps and doing prepwork.  Haven't decided between paint or spending the money on a full vinyl kit.  Definitely worth the time invested; our Sunday Windjammers sessions have been intense!

I am a paint guy and had no issues. Either way works fine. Just make sure if you do use paint make sure it is an Enamel. Anything else will not dry hard enough. Oil enamels dry harder than waterbased enamels. But again both will work for what you are doing. Use a halfway decent primer. Anything similar to Zinser 123 or Sherwin Williams Problock will work, just make sure you tint the primer to your top coat color. If you do go full Neo Geo red, go with a gray primer, which helps absorb light and will make coverage better. Also if you do go full on Neo Geo red, make sure the base of paint they start with is Red. See usually there are three bases of paint, White, Deep (looks white but its a bit translucent), Ultradeep (super translucent and used to tint dark and very vivid colors). Quality paints however do have Yellow and Red bases. I know for a fact Sherwin Williams does, I am sure Ben Moore and Behr Marquee do as well. This will turn your 7 coats of red to a more manageable 2 coats of red. If you have any questions message me.

If you decide to go black, lots of companies have prepackaged black paint. Always go prepackaged, far better than getting 20 ounces of black tint in an Ultradeep base. When that happens the top coat takes forever to dry and you end up with a surface that stays pretty tacky and soft. Go prepackaged!

Good luck!

Awesome, great info!  :applaud:

I had heard some negative points about painting plywood so I had been a little turned off to the idea.  Sounds like it's just a case of using the right paint!

What issues have you heard?
Well depending on what quality level you would expect to achieve, Random grain patterns, Bleed through and color discolorations from any fillers, and inconsistent absorbing factors would come to mind.... However a compatable sealer would be the answer.

Ian

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Re: New member, new to cabinet design, first build coming..
« Reply #25 on: November 06, 2017, 12:06:24 am »
A good primer fixes everything you listed.
Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin to slit throats.

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Re: New member, new to cabinet design, first build coming..
« Reply #26 on: November 06, 2017, 01:29:40 am »
   It does.... as long as its compatible with the topcoat. Its all schematics however Primer is used for covering problem areas, as sealer is used more for a uniform surface prior to topcoat, Most waterborne paints  today are a combination of both a primer sealer  are just that and found in the same can, Higher end two stage chems, tend to be more one or the other, Normally thinning the primer down to be the sealer. or two completely different products altogether such as epoxy base (depending on what it is your trying to cover).... Multiple coats of paint, can be worked in the same fashion, although again, that may not seal bleed through after time and may allow for discoloration, and furthermore wont hide sand through but will enhance them in the form of a "Bullseye".   

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Re: New member, new to cabinet design, first build coming..
« Reply #27 on: November 06, 2017, 01:35:46 am »
   And furthermore.... A "good" primer, might be prone to shrinkage, looking great at first, But over time shinking back and revealing the problems you were trying to hide in the first place. (Most prevalent in your older lacquer based systems) and high production fast dry products.
« Last Edit: November 06, 2017, 01:45:46 am by jennifer »

Ian

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Re: New member, new to cabinet design, first build coming..
« Reply #28 on: November 06, 2017, 08:31:37 am »
   It does.... as long as its compatible with the topcoat. Its all schematics however Primer is used for covering problem areas, as sealer is used more for a uniform surface prior to topcoat, Most waterborne paints  today are a combination of both a primer sealer  are just that and found in the same can, Higher end two stage chems, tend to be more one or the other, Normally thinning the primer down to be the sealer. or two completely different products altogether such as epoxy base (depending on what it is your trying to cover).... Multiple coats of paint, can be worked in the same fashion, although again, that may not seal bleed through after time and may allow for discoloration, and furthermore wont hide sand through but will enhance them in the form of a "Bullseye".


90% of products that you see out on the floor today are compatible. So this shouldn't be an issue, and this bleed through usually is Tannin leaking though from fresh cut of wood. So unless he is building this thing out of Cedar, Pine, or any other fresh cuts this shouldn't be an issue. He is building a Cab not a Deck. What you said is true about a Sealer Vs a Primer, but that really only applies in Lacquer based systems, again not an issue here. In fact almost all of the industrial coatings sold now are incredible primers that need to adhere to slick surfaces. These aren't technically sealers but if you use a product that is meant to stick on slick structural steel I am willing to bet the high solids in that type of primer would never allow for Tannin bleed, but again it's rare to have Tannin bleed in Plywood, and there is 0 chance of that happening in MDF.

And again he isn't using "an old lacquer based system".

This is dejavu we had this talk before. But back then you were insistent that Rattle cans are the way to go. Which is the farthest thing from the truth, unless you like your paint thin with very little solids. In fact every problem you listed above are issues with Rattle cans because the damn things have crap paint in them most times. And the mils of your coating (thickness) has a hard time blocking anything including things like grain and any knots.

So with that being said I understand you want him to use a sealer, but most high quality primers can be built up and fill any imperfections in the wood. Plus they can seal out anything plywood or particle wood has in store, I am trying to make this simple because the spec is super simple. Remember I do this for a living, I work very closely with high production wood shops, to mom and pop shops. I spec out everything from skyscrapers to your neighbors deck, I know what I am talking about because I have seen every issue in the field and every success.

High quality Pimer/Sealer. If the wood you are dealing with has any imperfections you can do multiple coats and sand in between. No problem! Super easy.
« Last Edit: November 06, 2017, 08:41:34 am by Ian »
Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin to slit throats.

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Re: New member, new to cabinet design, first build coming..
« Reply #29 on: November 06, 2017, 01:08:21 pm »
    Depending on what finish you want or expect there are other options than low or high end finishes discussed..... Wp/McGee, Factoring in your budget, and availably in your area (depending where you live), the quality and the time you are comfortable with investing. Jennifer would do tests on paint sticks to see what you like first, before you take the plunge....Btw, nicely done so far, not as easy as it looks right?...Good luck friend. ;)
« Last Edit: November 06, 2017, 06:33:27 pm by jennifer »

80sarcadegames

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Re: New member, new to cabinet design, first build coming..
« Reply #30 on: November 09, 2017, 04:49:13 pm »
Nice build!! Beautiful!  :applaud: :applaud:
I am personally not a fan of X Arcade or any pre-made control panels but if that is what fits your
budget and/or personal tastes, then enjoy!!   ;) ;) :D Thanks for sharing your journey with us.   ;)

WetpantsMcGee

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Re: New member, new to cabinet design, first build coming..
« Reply #31 on: November 12, 2017, 10:28:02 pm »
Nice build!! Beautiful!  :applaud: :applaud:
I am personally not a fan of X Arcade or any pre-made control panels but if that is what fits your
budget and/or personal tastes, then enjoy!!   ;) ;) :D Thanks for sharing your journey with us.   ;)

Thanks!

I have to admit, I'm not a fan of X-arcade now either. It would have been much easier to build a CP instead of trying to work around a Tankstick. I don't regret it, as it was a learning experience.

Even though I'm still working on this one, I'm already looking forward to my next build.

yotsuya

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Re: New member, new to cabinet design, first build coming..
« Reply #32 on: November 12, 2017, 10:35:16 pm »
Nice build!! Beautiful!  :applaud: :applaud:
I am personally not a fan of X Arcade or any pre-made control panels but if that is what fits your
budget and/or personal tastes, then enjoy!!   ;) ;) :D Thanks for sharing your journey with us.   ;)

Thanks!

I have to admit, I'm not a fan of X-arcade now either. It would have been much easier to build a CP instead of trying to work around a Tankstick. I don't regret it, as it was a learning experience.

Even though I'm still working on this one, I'm already looking forward to my next build.

Thatís how it usually goes! :cheers:
***Build what you dig, bro. Build what you dig.***

Slippyblade

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Re: New member, new to cabinet design, first build coming..
« Reply #33 on: November 13, 2017, 12:13:28 am »
Even though I'm still working on this one, I'm already looking forward to my next build.

We'll reserve a space at the asylum for ya.

  
 

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