Zero Delay has two (red) 2 pin 5v connectors, how to connect 10 LED buttons?.

[hotgraphics]

Hi, I am in the process of building a mini bartop arcade machine with a Windows 10 PC in it, and I've bought off eBay a Zero Delay package of 2 Zero Delay boards, 2 LED joysticks and 20 LED buttons and all the wiring (except the wires to wire the LEDS in the buttons/joystick) to connect the buttons and joysticks, see here http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Arcade-20-DIY-LED-Buttons-2-Joysticks-2-USB-Controller-Encoder-Kit-Game-Part/142444023009?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 , but unfortunately they don't come with a wiring diagram for the Zero Delay or the wiring to get the joysticks/buttons to light up. The Zero Delay board I'm getting is the model that has two 5v (red connectors in the picture) connectors. I understand that one of them is to light the joystick, but how do you wire the 2nd 5v connector to light all 10 LED buttons?. Also where could I get the wire that connects to the 5v to light the joystick, also what that wire is called?. Thanks for any help.

[PL1]

I think this diagram will work for your buttons -- related thread here.



The two pin / two 0.110" Quick Disconnect wires connect to the microswitch tabs. (A and B)

There should also be some "daisy-chains" for the red connectors.



One daisy-chain for ground like the black wire below and one daisy-chain for 5v like the red wire below.




Scott

[hotgraphics]

Thank you for your quick reply!, Scott. That clears things up a bit. I was wondering if anywhere (preferably eBay) that sells the red & black daisy chain wire with the button connectors like the ones you showed a picture of, in 10 button compatibility, preferably with the male 5v connector that's works with the  female 5v connector on the Zero Delay board?. What do you search on eBay to find them?, or is there another site with PayPal payment option that has them?. Thanks.

[PL1]

IIRC Paradise Arcade Shop accepts Paypal and carries a 10-connection black 0.110" daisy-chain here.

That doesn't help with the two-pin connector, though.   


Scott

[hotgraphics]

Ah ha, thank you so much, Scott. 

[hotgraphics]

You wouldn't happen to know which pin on the female 5v connector on the Zero Delay board, in the picture of it I've provided, is the positive pin?, top one or bottom?. Cheers!.

[barrymossel]

You wouldn't happen to know which pin on the female 5v connector on the Zero Delay board, in the picture of it I've provided, is the positive pin?, top one or bottom?. Cheers!.

The top one says +5V, but better be safe than sorry and measure with a volt-/multi meter. If you want I could do it for you later...

[PL1]

better be safe than sorry and measure with a volt-/multi meter.

^ This.

You won't hurt the LEDs if you accidently reverse-bias them, but it would be good to document which pin is which.   


Scott

[hotgraphics]

Thanks for your replies, I just have to wait till I get the package from eBay that includes the Zero Delay, then I've got a mate with a multi-meter. I should be able to find out then.

[hotgraphics]

I was wondering if this EZ-LED Wiring Harness https://paradisearcadeshop.com/harnesses/677-ez-led-wiring-harness.html would be suitable to daisy chain the 5v connector to the buttons tabs. Are the connectors on the wires the correct size to fit the tabs on the buttons and also is the wire a suitable gauge?. Thanks.

[hotgraphics]

Oh dear, the postage is over $60 for 2 EZ LED Wiring Harness's to Australia.

[PL1]

I was wondering if this EZ-LED Wiring Harness https://paradisearcadeshop.com/harnesses/677-ez-led-wiring-harness.html would be suitable to daisy chain the 5v connector to the buttons tabs.

To quote the sage advice offered on the cover of the Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy, "DON'T PANIC".

Wait until you get the package from e-bay and confirm whether it does or does not have the correct 2-pin to 0.110" daisy-chains for the LEDs.

The correct harnesses should be included.

Are the connectors on the wires the correct size to fit the tabs on the buttons?

From the product page:

this wire Harness makes connecting up our lighted buttons with .250" connections easy!

The harness QDs are designed for 0.250" wide tabs like on the buttons in the red/black daisy chain pic above.

Your buttons have 0.110" wide tabs.

The good news is that you can still use that harness -- just be aware that a wiggling wire can work it's way loose and fall off.

To minimize wiggling:
- Once installed, gently squeeze on the curled female tab connection with pliers.
- Put the tab all the way to one side like in this picture of 0.110" male QDs and 0.187" female QDs.



Using the right size QDs will make the connection WAY more reliable.

is the wire a suitable gauge?

Bryan and Susan wouldn't offer this product if it wasn't.   

With 18 gauge wire even the most conservative amperage rating estimate is 2.3 Amps. ("Maximum amps for power transmission" column here)

Average LEDs draw about 20mA (115 LEDs=2.3A) and some high intensity LEDs draw about 100mA. (23 LEDs=2.3A)


Scott

[PL1]

Australia.

That's an important piece of info.   

Can't vouch personally for these vendors, but if the e-bay package is lacking the daisy-chains, you may want to check these alternatives.

https://www.austinamusements.com.au/other-spare-parts/chain-wire-suit-illuminated-button-terminals.html

https://www.diyarcade.com.au/lights-wiring-loom-30-connectors

The archive.org backup of the old wiki here mentions some other vendors from Australia:
- Arcade Gaming Australia
- GameDude
- OzStick
- RetroMania


Scott

[hotgraphics]

Slowly learning more, Scott, thanks for the info.

[hotgraphics]

Hi, my Joysticks, Buttons, Wiring & Zero Delays arrived. As stated in the listing, there were no wiring looms to light the LEDs in the buttons. Oddly it came with 2 extra sets of wires (not mentioned in the listing) with the Zero Delay connectors on one end of the sets of wires and bare wires at the other end, so I had enough to wire one joystick LED up (it was a bit dim because I believe it's wanting 12v & only getting 5v). I bought some of the (around 3mm) 0.110" connectors from Jaycar, 100 for $12.95AU), & had some white & red wire laying around, so I made up some LED button wiring looms for Player 1 & 2 Zero Delays (Pictured). I still have to solder the connectors and I should be able to measure the 5v connector with a multimeter to see which pin is positive on the Zero Delay, by this coming Thursday. I also bought another spare, cheap Zero Delay with wires to salvage the Zero Delay connectors to light the other joystick and for lead in wires for the looms. Just something I was wondering, I heard that the buttons only light up when pressed, is there a way to have them lit constantly?.

[morton]

Not only is the voltage important, but if the current on the 5v supply on the ZeroDelay is limited, your LEDs can only draw so much. Since youre wanting them lit all the time, I would suggest trying to power them independent of the ZeroDelay, so then you control them via a traditional switch inside the cab. They could be always lit or turned off if you want. This way the voltage and amps play nicer, and youll get that nice bright light. Maybe much easier than trying to connect the LEDs to the ZeroDelay. Then your wiring will be easier to manage, cleaner looking, and youll have option of upgrading the encoder one day. Cant expect too much froma $7 board IMO.

[hotgraphics]

Thanks for your reply, morton. Sounds interesting, but I'm not 100% sure how to go about powering them independently of the Zero Delay. I'm going to be using a Mini-PC (i5) with your average laptop style power supply and then a Y splitter cable (C14 to C13) to connect the monitor & power supply, so there's only one power cord coming out of the cab (I also had to get a C14 to C5 adapter to do this). I was wondering what power supply would suitable for powering the Mini-PC, monitor & the LEDs in the buttons/joysticks, retaining having only one cord coming out the back of the cab?.

[morton]

When you say power supply, do you mean, just an AC voltage line in, pr youre going to power the monitor using the PSU from the PC?

Personally, it sounds like lots of splitters and such. Are they properly rated for the amount of current youre going to pull? Ive opened up an old cab and the 120v line comes into cab, is split at a fuse block and those lines go to their respective components - one to Power Supply and one line feeds the monitor. Both 120v, both have fuses on each line (safety first!). I have seen projects where people just power them all off a power bar. Will add a breaker should anything go wonky. Hardwire it to your IEC connector in the back of the cab, then youll only have one in, and the option of plugging in a power supply for each component. One for Monitor, One for PC and one for LEDs.

[hotgraphics]

Yeah, it's just your average rectangular laptop power supply to power just the mini-pc. The Y splitter cord should be fine to power the mini-pc & monitor, but I will make sure. Maybe I'll think of having a different setup down the line. Thanks for your help again.

[hotgraphics]

Confirmed, the positive pin on the red connectors is the bottom one in the diagram. 

[hotgraphics]

Also the LED buttons are continuously lit by default.

[nostraduckus]

I'm wanting to make a game show buzzer circuit which only allows the first buzzer hit to light up. Would this circuit board be suitable? I have a feeling the lockout functionality is controlled by the software, such as Game Show Presenter.

I was hoping to follow this tutorial but the LED's don't light up -

Any ideas how I would make this setup using those arcade buttons?

[PL1]

Your question is a lot more complicated than the earlier posts in this thread. (on/off LED quiz-buttons vs. always-on button LEDs)

You may want to start a new thread to further explore your quiz-button build idea.   

I'm wanting to make a game show buzzer circuit which only allows the first buzzer hit to light up. Would this circuit board be suitable?

By itself, the ZD Encoder is only a USB HID gamepad encoder.

You will need additional circuitry (and possibly software/firmware) for lockout and on/off LEDs.

I have a feeling the lockout functionality is controlled by the software, such as Game Show Presenter.

You are correct.

I was hoping to follow this tutorial but the LED's don't light up -

The maker of that . . . tutorial . . . does not appear to be anywhere close to the level of expertise and knowledge required to add indicator LEDs.

Any ideas how I would make this setup using those arcade buttons?

Those buttons are just a microswitch and an LED -- they'll work with any quiz-button setup that supports/controls LEDs.

Several questions to clarify what you want accomplish and which aproach will let you reach that goal:

1. Do you want to make a standalone quiz button/LED/lockout system (easy) or do you want to make a quiz button/LED/lockout system that sends a keystroke/button press to software/game(s)? (much more complicated)

2. If you want to send a keystroke/button press, what software/game(s) do you want to use it with?
- Be specific and list all of them.  Choosing the correct approach depends entirely on the answer to this question.

3. Does the software/game(s) have the lockout function built-in? (It should.)

4. Does the software/game(s) have an output system that LEDBlinky or MAMEhooker can translate into LED controller commands? (If so, the project will be much easier.   )


Scott

[nostraduckus]

Hey Scott thanks for the reply! It doesn't have to interface with software, a stand alone lockout system that lights up the first buzzer with a reset is all that is required. I would like to use those arcade buttons though.

[PL1]

It doesn't have to interface with software, a stand alone lockout system that lights up the first buzzer with a reset is all that is required. I would like to use those arcade buttons though.

Here are two well-documented standalone quiz-button builds that use an Arduino Uno.


https://www.iliketomakestuff.com/make-quiz-game-buttons/


http://sharpk60.blogspot.com/2014/12/quiz-show-buzzers.html

Either of these builds will work with the large dome buttons as long as the LEDs don't draw more current (mA) than the associated Arduino Uno pin can supply.

If the LEDs do draw more current than the Arduino Uno can supply -- this is possible but not likely -- you can use the Uno to control a solid-state relay board that switches power to the LEDs.

I look forward to seeing your build thread in either the "Project Announcements" or "Raspberry Pi & Dev Board' sub-forum.   


Scott