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Author Topic: Retro Racer - Playmates 1985 - "Fun-to-Drive" Dashboard Toy Pi3 Mini Racer  (Read 544 times)

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gstav

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Hi guys!

Since I completed my (Hulk Themed Virtual Pin Cab) and (MAME cabinet with real a real NAMCO light gun) I'm now happy to announce my third project -  a Pi3 based racer which I have named 'Retro Racer'




Thanks to badmouth's racing thread I managed to hack a pc gamepad's tumbstick pot. to the wheel which makes it a "270 wheel" with analog steering and return springs for auto-center when released.

I also managed to integrate the vibration motors for excessive steering and when turning the ignition key.  :laugh:

5"LCD HDMI touch screen
Pi3 "Motion Blue v4"  image running Attract Mode
32gb Evo+ card


Closed up and ready for some Outrun on MAME. Analog steering - engaged!  :angel:


Potentiometer and the pull springs for auto-center. also the V-shaped profile which activates the vibration motor when overturning the wheel triggered by the "antenna" in the center.


A gut shot from the inside of the cab opened up


This is not a build log as the project is completed, but I intend to post som in detailed pics of the steps completing it as, for what I have seen, this is the first Pi dedicated toy racer cab completed(?) ::)

Some important parts from eBay can be found here!

Happy to hear what you think.

Regards

/Gustav Wingburen
« Last Edit: July 12, 2017, 10:09:29 am by gstav »
"One coin to rule em' all"

DorkVonWaterfall

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how did you manage to get analog potmeter (steering) connected/recognized to the Pi?

gstav

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Hi!

The gamepad I used got identified directly in the Pi as a HID device. So connected the left thumbstick works for analog directional movement, IF the game/system supports it and when the analog button is activated on the pad.

For the "hack" (which I found how to do on this wert forum)  I used a 10k potentiometer and de-soldered the thumb pot for left and righ (there is two, also up/down pot)

There is 3 solder points to de-solder per pot.

But best is to removed the thumb PCB completely which I did. So you have to de-solder 12 poings: 3x2 points + 2 for the button micro switch and also additional 4 soldered legs just to make it sturdy. (slow and steady and you will get there)

Then I reattached the secondary pot or else it will send max UP value without it. Connect it to a PC and configure via "USB Game Devises" to see  ;)

The 10k pot then should be fixed in position with only the turning point - centered, and inserted in the back end of the steering shaft. If this make any sense?  ;D

If you want to I can show this in pictures.

Cheers  :cheers:
"One coin to rule em' all"

barrymossel

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  • RetroPie all the way!
Really cool build! You inspired me to combine one of the Pi boards I have lying around with a 7 inch touch screen (which I will probably won't use ever anyway). Could make me a mini cabinet :)

mpwalters

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I watched the video where you tested the rumble when the wheels are turning or ignition starting.  Using the spring was clever!  How is the responsiveness of the wheel when playing?

gstav

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Really cool build! You inspired me to combine one of the Pi boards I have lying around with a 7 inch touch screen (which I will probably won't use ever anyway). Could make me a mini cabinet :)

Thanks pal! Glad to hear that! With a 7" you can build pretty neat bartop or other cab for sure! :D
It's a really fun build to do, part from a bit of trouble hacking the pot of tha gamepad and placing the wheel, that is. But hey! More joy to follow when succeeded :angel:
"One coin to rule em' all"

gstav

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I watched the video where you tested the rumble when the wheels are turning or ignition starting.  Using the spring was clever!  How is the responsiveness of the wheel when playing?

Thanks man! Yes, it works wery well, and is a bit fun effect when you oversteering the wheel.
I think the sensetivity is quite snappy. it's is a small wheel and the 10k pot is intended for a thumb stick, so I guesse not tru 270 degree but more of 180 :D
I would say the deadzone works fine. like 5+- minutes if you thiink it like a clock and then down and up to 45min-15min if you can follow my pissy explanation :blah:

This I guess, is all up to the encoder in the game pad you intend to use, and mine was like 12$. So I guess it is better with a more quality pad ;D
My racer is so small so I don't think it would matter in my project.
« Last Edit: July 08, 2017, 08:47:50 am by gstav »
"One coin to rule em' all"

gstav

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Re-posted this in the racing cab section. Moderators could maybe remove/move one of them or lock this one, as it's now posted in the "Driving & Racing Cabinets" part of the forums

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,154705.0.html
"One coin to rule em' all"

  
 

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