I didn't think you had to connect the neutral to the switch, if you didn't want the neon light to illuminate?
Only that is what I have read? Just want the rocker switch for power, not worried about the red neon light illuminating.
If you don't care about the lamp, you can indeed go straight from 1 to neutral on your cab power strip.
I don't really understand regarding the multimeter, do you have an easy way of explaining it please, sorry but just a beginner with electronics.
I do have a multimeter, can you let me know what setting I need to put the switch on the multimeter
There are lots of good general-purpose multimeter tutorials on YouTube like
.
Once you've watched that 8-minute video, here's one showing how to do the check.
Set your multimeter to "Ohms"/"Ω" or "Continuity".
- When you
don't touch the red lead to the black lead, you'll get the same open/infinite resistance reading ("1 ." in the video below) as you'll get on tabs 7 and 8 with the switch open.
-- No contact = no path for the current to flow from one lead to the other = open/infinite resistance reading.
- When you touch the red lead to the black lead, you'll get about the same reading as you'll get on tabs 7 and 8 with the switch closed.
-- The touching leads or closed switch will allow a path for current to flow and you'll get a resistance reading (ohms mode) or a beep (continuity mode).
I
think your switch is oriented like the one in this video. (8 7 6)
The video shows less-than-perfect contact between the leads and switch, but if you make firm, steady contact you should get a reading of less than 2 ohms.
For
all your power connections, you want a low-resistance connection to avoid generating heat like
this.
This is why you always want clean, corrosion-free, mechanically-solid and low-resistance (<2 ohms) power connections.
Scott