1. Where are P1/P2 Coin?
Do you plan on using shifted functions for them?
Coin-up via cosmetic knobs on the front? (if you do this, consider moving the volume control to the far left)
I didn't realize there needed to be separate buttons for Coin, couldn't they be mapped the same as P1/P2 Start?
I've never tried tying Coin and Start together -- it's definitely
not how MAME is designed to work.
Not sure if it would cause problems with any of the titles on your game list.
You
have compiled your "can't live without it" game list, haven't you?
It's step 2 in the "What type of build meets my needs?" section of the FAQ
here.
Please review that design process to see if there are any other questions/concerns that arise.
Another option that
MIGHT work is setting each game on your list to freeplay, but that depends on the specific games.
IMHO avoiding separate coin buttons, knobs, mechanisms, and/or "
shifted functions" (i.e. IPac P1 Start + P1B1 = Coin) creates a needless amount of pain.
2. Are you planning on using momentary pushbuttons for the 4-way/8-way controls or do you want to use a rocker switch so someone doesn't accidently push both at the same time?
I thought about a rocker switch, but the buttons look better aesthetically... but maybe a locking push button switch could work?
There are lots of different styles of switches if you
really feel the need to put those controls on the panel, but it would be easier for your guests if you use auto-switching.
3. Have you looked into auto-switching instead of manual switching between 4-way/8-way?
I haven't, is that an easy thing to do?
Haven't looked into it much, but there are a number of threads on the subject
and Andy wouldn't put out a product like the
ServoStik if it didn't have decent software support.
Those two metal control plates are going to cost a pretty penny
They look fairly simple to fabricate.
If your friend has a drill press, a step bit like this should make it fairly easy to drill the joystick/button holes in metal.
If you use the wood top and front panels as a support for the metal, you probably won't need to add edge bends for rigidity.
I'm not sure if he does have a drill press, but I was also thinking the art on those two panels would be laser etched + color filled too and there's a couple places in town that can doo the whole thing all at once. I was thinking that this would be a fairly thin piece of metal sunk into the wood to hide the edge and also so I can mount the joysticks from underneath.
OK. I was thinking custom vinyl like
this from SlammedNiss.
A shallow/even countersink for the whole 20.25" x 7.5" plate might be difficult unless your friend has a CNC or makes some sort of jig to keep the router from tipping.
Scott