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Author Topic: First DK Cabinet Build  (Read 40708 times)

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mwhitney

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Re: First DK Cabinet Build
« Reply #120 on: April 23, 2017, 03:36:47 pm »
honestly I'd hate to see you use bolts at all like that. This design deserves to have no screw/bolt heads visible at all on the control panel. blind hole underside mounting for the stick. Attaching the panel could be done either with velcro/latch system/magnet system.

Thanks for the feedback. I thought the carriage bolts were standard :



Do you have a photo of what you mean? Just velcro on the underside of the panel and stuck to the painted MDF?

I really don't mind the look of the carriage bolts - I just don't want them to be overbearing. The photo I posted yesterday (1/2") seem too big.

As for my joysticks, I have the ones that mount from the underside (no screws through the top).

mwhitney

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Re: First DK Cabinet Build
« Reply #121 on: April 23, 2017, 03:38:08 pm »
I vote carriage bolts. All the old games had them. I find them more authentic.

I agree with you and kind of like the look. Any idea what the head measurement is on the original bolts?

ChanceKJ

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« Reply #122 on: April 23, 2017, 04:46:59 pm »
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« Last Edit: March 19, 2021, 02:46:23 am by ChanceKJ »

yotsuya

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Re: First DK Cabinet Build
« Reply #123 on: April 23, 2017, 06:12:16 pm »
Imma just gonna put this right here... all shot in my actual gameroom....









***Build what you dig, bro. Build what you dig.***

Wyo

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Re: First DK Cabinet Build
« Reply #124 on: April 23, 2017, 07:05:17 pm »
Mikes arcade has OEM sized carriage bolts for DK cabs.  Twisted quarter also has a nice selection on smaller headed carriage bolts.  I bought a lot of like 700 smaller headed carriage bolts off ebay for like $10 that I use on my CPs and coin doors. 

Go smaller for sure, 1/2 is to big. 

Also, bad ass and unique side art.

Also, bad ass wood wall.  Dig your style, the game is gonna look perfect in that room.

mwhitney

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Re: First DK Cabinet Build
« Reply #125 on: April 24, 2017, 07:53:13 pm »
Mikes arcade has OEM sized carriage bolts for DK cabs.  Twisted quarter also has a nice selection on smaller headed carriage bolts.  I bought a lot of like 700 smaller headed carriage bolts off ebay for like $10 that I use on my CPs and coin doors. 

Go smaller for sure, 1/2 is to big. 

Also, bad ass and unique side art.

Also, bad ass wood wall.  Dig your style, the game is gonna look perfect in that room.

Hey Wyo - thanks for the kudos man! I'm really looking forward to getting the artwork on. Last night I took a monitor apart that I had and painted the outer frame from silver to black so it disappears in the cab. Tonight, I should be able to mount the monitor inside and start playing with hookups.

RE the carriage bolts, man - I'm having a helluva time finding M4 bolts. I need 8 that are about 1.25" long as I have to go through 3/4" MDF and the plexiglass... Mike's seems like the only* place to find them but even at that, I'm not sure they will be long enough. I could countersink the underside if need be and use shorter bolts, but shipping is probably going to be 2-3 times the cost of the bolts themselves. I have a request in to Mike's to see what the damage / availability is.

I held the bolts I have up to the CP art mockup and they would look way out of scale. I can't believe there isn't anything to be had locally... anyway, it's the thrill of the hunt with some of this stuff ;).

Thanks for your support along this build. The wall behind the machine was all free lumber from thrown away pallets. I broke them all apart, ran them through the saw for some uniformity and clean edges and then stained them all... took some time, but it turned out kinda cool IMO. In hindsight, I'd have painted the wall dark first. When the sun hits it, you can some some space here and there despite having squared up my edges. One day I may pop them off as they're only brad-nailed, and hit the wall with some dark paint.

mwhitney

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Re: First DK Cabinet Build
« Reply #126 on: April 24, 2017, 07:56:19 pm »
Thanks for the pics Yotsuya - great to have the reference. I'm on-board 100% with the bolts and feel it ties into the whole feel. Nivo, thanks for your feedback as well - I hear you about a completely clean panel, but I think if the bolts are kept nice and small / neat, it adds a cool element- it's all subjective, I suppose. I don't mind a bit of bling on the board ;).

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Re: First DK Cabinet Build
« Reply #127 on: April 24, 2017, 08:16:25 pm »
No problem. I just think carriage bolts are a simple solution that for whatever reason get a bad rap.
***Build what you dig, bro. Build what you dig.***

Wyo

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Re: First DK Cabinet Build
« Reply #128 on: April 24, 2017, 09:53:49 pm »
Mikes arcade has OEM sized carriage bolts for DK cabs.  Twisted quarter also has a nice selection on smaller headed carriage bolts.  I bought a lot of like 700 smaller headed carriage bolts off ebay for like $10 that I use on my CPs and coin doors. 

Go smaller for sure, 1/2 is to big. 

Also, bad ass and unique side art.

Also, bad ass wood wall.  Dig your style, the game is gonna look perfect in that room.

Hey Wyo - thanks for the kudos man! I'm really looking forward to getting the artwork on. Last night I took a monitor apart that I had and painted the outer frame from silver to black so it disappears in the cab. Tonight, I should be able to mount the monitor inside and start playing with hookups.

RE the carriage bolts, man - I'm having a helluva time finding M4 bolts. I need 8 that are about 1.25" long as I have to go through 3/4" MDF and the plexiglass... Mike's seems like the only* place to find them but even at that, I'm not sure they will be long enough. I could countersink the underside if need be and use shorter bolts, but shipping is probably going to be 2-3 times the cost of the bolts themselves. I have a request in to Mike's to see what the damage / availability is.

I held the bolts I have up to the CP art mockup and they would look way out of scale. I can't believe there isn't anything to be had locally... anyway, it's the thrill of the hunt with some of this stuff ;).

Thanks for your support along this build. The wall behind the machine was all free lumber from thrown away pallets. I broke them all apart, ran them through the saw for some uniformity and clean edges and then stained them all... took some time, but it turned out kinda cool IMO. In hindsight, I'd have painted the wall dark first. When the sun hits it, you can some some space here and there despite having squared up my edges. One day I may pop them off as they're only brad-nailed, and hit the wall with some dark paint.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-Lbs-or-approximately-840-8-32-x-1-1-4-zinc-coated-carriage-bolts-/201890156078?hash=item2f01974e2e:g:yoIAAOSwjDZYkPzZ

These are the ones I bought. I have a million of them....the heads are slightly bigger than original but they work great and are long enough for what you need.  PM me your addy and I'll send you a handful....but it won't be until the weekend if that's cool...I work to much. :)

mwhitney

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Re: First DK Cabinet Build
« Reply #129 on: April 25, 2017, 01:34:33 pm »
Hi Wyo - I appreciate it man! Not to look a gift-horse..., but would you mind telling me what the head measures on yours? Also, is there any numbers etc. on the heads? I could be wrong but the head size in the eBay photo looks like it could measure 1/2" across.

Do you have a photo of your build CP with these in place?

Thanks mate!

Wyo

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Re: First DK Cabinet Build
« Reply #130 on: April 25, 2017, 10:00:22 pm »
I believe they are 8/32 wide heads and 1 1/4 inch long.

Check out my LOZ build control panel for the cp pics.  I use them on the coin door as well.

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« Reply #131 on: April 25, 2017, 11:14:52 pm »
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« Last Edit: March 19, 2021, 02:36:13 am by ChanceKJ »

mwhitney

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Re: First DK Cabinet Build
« Reply #132 on: April 26, 2017, 12:21:52 am »
I believe they are 8/32 wide heads and 1 1/4 inch long.

Check out my LOZ build control panel for the cp pics.  I use them on the coin door as well.

Sounds perfect, Wyo. If you're willing to fire these off to me, I'd be extremely grateful. I can PM you my addy and just let me know what the shipping etc. and bolt cost is. I've hit up every specialty shop in the area and even RC car / model / hobby shots with no luck. I did find some pins I could make work they are silver with small round heads and take cotter pins with holds drilled along their length for different depth options. The head size is perfect and I could cotter pin them underneath / drill new holes or space them out with washers but it's a bit of #effarounditis PLUS, they are $3 and change per piece!

Man - Chance's hashtag is spot on. Your build is freakin' amazing brother.... hats off to you. It makes me want to build one!

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Re: First DK Cabinet Build
« Reply #133 on: April 26, 2017, 12:36:36 am »
A bit more progress over the past two days:

I have an old Samsung monitor with an adjustable base - the thing spins 180* and has an arm that lowers / raises the monitor and tilts. I was tempted to get rid of this thing long before I ever thought I'd be building an arcade, but I'm glad I hung onto it.

The bezel was silver, so I took it all apart and hit it with the rattle can. Because of the adjustability, I didn't have to mess around too much with finding the perfect angle. Instead, I just stacked a bunch of misc. items (chair, stool, books, kids foam blocks) and got the shelf to the right height. From there I marked the cab and installed the shelf.

I would have had it in last night but the wood strips kept splitting on me - go figure. This is the same lumber I used for my batons inside but I finally said screw it and picked up some small aluminum angle iron for the shelf supports.

Once in, I tested the monitor to make sure I didn't screw anything up and started loading my RPi etc. in the cab to start mapping out where things will go.

One thing I'm not clear on is how to wire up this lit power module to my power-bar. I got as far as cutting the plug off and crimping some spade terminals but have no idea how this thing works. Wiring is not my specialty... I looked on Google last night but didn't have much luck - if anyone has a shot of how this goes, I'd appreciate it.

Bezel removed:



Painted:


Reassembled:



One side in:



Second side:


Shelf installed - yeah, there's T-mold on it, you can laugh at me ;). I had a chunk of black and figured 'why the hell not?'



Shelf drilled - Samsung was nice enough to put some threaded inserts in the bottom. Thanks Samsung -



Monitor works! Whew...



Powerbar leads crimped and heat-shrunk... no idea how this wires / where the jumpers go:



Lastly - artwork was all sent off and proofs came back today! It was pretty cool seeing everything in pre-production... can't wait to get the artwork on this baby.
« Last Edit: April 26, 2017, 01:28:59 pm by mwhitney »

mwhitney

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Re: First DK Cabinet Build
« Reply #134 on: April 26, 2017, 01:06:09 am »
I think I may have it...

The only thing I need are 2 jumper wires.

If the empty terminals in my photo are numbered 1-4 from top to bottom, would I just need a jumper from 1 to 4 and another from 2 to 3?



On a completely different subject, my buddy found this cover (no vinyl) in a bin of used records. Thought the cover was cool...


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Re: First DK Cabinet Build
« Reply #135 on: April 26, 2017, 01:14:54 am »

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Re: First DK Cabinet Build
« Reply #136 on: April 26, 2017, 01:27:57 am »
i made ya two pics based on your own pic.

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Re: First DK Cabinet Build
« Reply #137 on: April 26, 2017, 01:29:38 am »
ahh nuts, PL1 posted while i was doing this hehe. Sorry about that.

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Re: First DK Cabinet Build
« Reply #138 on: April 26, 2017, 01:39:38 am »
If the empty terminals in my photo are numbered 1-4 from top to bottom, would I just need a jumper from 1 to 4 and another from 2 to 3?


Pretty close.

If you do it that way, the lamp will always be on -- the lamp is between the wider tabs on the right. (1+2)

To wire it so the lamp is off when the switch is open:

1. Move the white wire from 1 left to 1 right.

2. Move the black wire from 2 left to 2 right.

3. Jumper from 4 to 1 left for neutral. (white)

4. Jumper from 3 to 2 left for hot. (black)

Make sure you have both good mechanical connections (QDs won't twist free) and good electrical connections (<2 ohms) BEFORE you try to run power through it.

Why is it important to have clean, corrosion-free, mechanically-solid and low-resistance power connections?

Badmouth shows why here and here.




Scott
« Last Edit: April 26, 2017, 01:41:41 am by PL1 »

mwhitney

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Re: First DK Cabinet Build
« Reply #139 on: April 26, 2017, 01:37:06 pm »
Hey Scott and Nivo  - this is great info. I'll have to read up on how to test for low ohm connections... this is all new to me. The extend of my wiring experience is wiring pos/neg to speakers / car batteries ;).

Thanks again! I'll post how I make out, tonight (hopefully).

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Re: First DK Cabinet Build
« Reply #140 on: April 26, 2017, 02:37:29 pm »
SERIAL NUMBER PLATE:

Does anyone have a vector file (AI, or editable PDF) for the serial number plates for these Nintendo cabs?

Thanks!

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« Reply #141 on: April 26, 2017, 05:17:11 pm »
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« Last Edit: March 19, 2021, 02:46:12 am by ChanceKJ »

mwhitney

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Re: First DK Cabinet Build
« Reply #142 on: April 26, 2017, 05:21:34 pm »
just saw your PM for the number plate.
I've got you covered.

SERIAL NUMBER PLATE:

Does anyone have a vector file (AI, or editable PDF) for the serial number plates for these Nintendo cabs?

Thanks!

Thanks brother!

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Re: First DK Cabinet Build
« Reply #143 on: April 26, 2017, 11:09:39 pm »
haha, thanks Chance. I was to lazy to cut and paste a pic. Haha

As far as the bolts, no problem my man. I Forgot you were in Canada so shipping them will mean I'll need to go when the post office is open....no worries. I'll shoot for Saturday morning.  And I'm gonna send you more than 8, you'll need them for your next Nintendo build....because you know there will be another one. :)

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Re: First DK Cabinet Build
« Reply #144 on: April 27, 2017, 12:31:47 am »
As far as the bolts, no problem my man. I Forgot you were in Canada so shipping them will mean I'll need to go when the post office is open....no worries. I'll shoot for Saturday morning.  And I'm gonna send you more than 8, you'll need them for your next Nintendo build....because you know there will be another one. :)

No rush at all and I really appreciate it. I think you may be right about another build. My wife on the other-hand... her girlfriends were joking over dinner on the weekend to the effect of, "Oh yes, it's every girl's dream to have an arcade...". Funny thing is, when I had the dummy CP upstairs, she spent hours paying Tetris. We'll see who clocks more hours on the machine ;).
« Last Edit: April 27, 2017, 12:48:49 am by mwhitney »

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Re: First DK Cabinet Build
« Reply #145 on: April 27, 2017, 12:41:00 am »
Success w/ the wiring tonight. Many thanks again to Nivo and PL1 - got it all sorted, and no burning :timebomb:

Maybe this pic will help someone down the road:



All lights up, main switch turns the power bar on/off, and the light goes out when turning off the module switch:



Not a ton of progress tonight but I'm ready to start figuring out where to put stuff. I'm going to follow Chance's lead with the velcro wraps to keep things neat and keep drilling / screws to a minimum inside.

Couldn't resist putting the coin sticker on tonight. I trimmed off all the white for a cleaner look -



Also - had some time today and used some design elements from Chance's plate and requested a quote for a plate (thanks again for the info, Chance). I was pretty tempted to do the DIY method but I'd be in it for a good $16 for the Avery labels, close to $20 for the flashing and then clear... I'm thinking a legit one would be less than that.

Here's what I came up with:

« Last Edit: April 27, 2017, 12:43:17 am by mwhitney »

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« Reply #146 on: April 27, 2017, 02:13:05 am »
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« Last Edit: March 19, 2021, 02:30:53 am by ChanceKJ »

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Re: First DK Cabinet Build
« Reply #147 on: April 27, 2017, 02:40:21 am »
Success w/ the wiring tonight. Many thanks again to Nivo and PL1 - got it all sorted, and no burning :timebomb:
The burning takes time.   >:D

Keep your nose alert, just in case.  :duckhunt


1. Nintedo?   :lol

2. You might want to check the math.

Watts = Volts * Amps

110W = 120V * 1.2A  :dizzy:

Your cab will probably draw more than 1.2 Amps by the time you add the RasPi3, monitor, audio amp, marquee light, etc.

LMK if you need help figuring out the correct electrical info for your serial plate.  :cheers:


Scott

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Re: First DK Cabinet Build
« Reply #148 on: April 27, 2017, 10:54:28 am »
Thanks Scott.

1) Too funny. I read it and thought, 'Nintedo - yeah, what's wrong with tha ---- ohh!' Thanks for catching it.... :)

2) My lack of knowledge here is shining through. I just copied the numbers from a Google image. Someone else's math is wrong too ;)

3)I'd definitely like to take you up on that offer, Scott.

Cheers!

Mike

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Re: First DK Cabinet Build
« Reply #149 on: April 27, 2017, 03:54:20 pm »
I'd definitely like to take you up on that offer, Scott.
OK.

The RasPi3 power supply draws 0.5A @120v -- that includes the Xin-Mo(?) encoders and anything else that gets power from USB.

Need to know what other specific equipment will be in your cab.

Monitor:
- What model Samsung are you using?
- Are the amperage and voltage listed on the back? (or on the power brick?)

Audio amp:
- How are you powering it? (separate power brick, USB, etc.)
- Are the amperage and voltage listed?
- What are you using?  Link?

Marquee backlight:
- Are the amperage and voltage listed on the fixture? 
- What are you using?  Link?

Anything else?


Scott

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Re: First DK Cabinet Build
« Reply #150 on: April 27, 2017, 04:27:50 pm »
Hi Scott - please see below:


The RasPi3 power supply draws 0.5A @120v -- that includes the Xin-Mo(?) encoders and anything else that gets power from USB.

** Perfect - I'm using the Xin-Mo encoder. **

Need to know what other specific equipment will be in your cab.

Monitor:
- What model Samsung are you using?
- Are the amperage and voltage listed on the back? (or on the power brick?)

** Monitor is a Samsung Syncmaster 193 P **
40 Watt
Link: https://www.cnet.com/products/samsung-syncmaster-193p/specs/
http://www.samsung.com/ca/support/model/DI19PSQAQ

Audio amp:
- How are you powering it? (separate power brick, USB, etc.)
- Are the amperage and voltage listed?
- What are you using?  Link?

** Amplifier specs are as follows: Operating voltage:DC7.5-15V - Recommended supply voltage:12V **
I'll be powering this with an adapter.
Link: http://retroactivearcade.ca/mini-hi-fi-audio-amplifier-12v-for-raspberry-pi-1/

Marquee backlight:
- Are the amperage and voltage listed on the fixture? 
- What are you using?  Link?

** I'm using a 'Good Earth' 18" florescent - 120V, 15W **
Here's a link to the light with data sheet / specs: https://www.craftwoodlumber.com/products/523275?via=57c72f9a69702d410a00387c%2C57c72fb269702d410a0039e1

Anything else?
I think that's it: Monitor, Xin Mo, RPi3, 4" speaker, mini amp, and at times, I may hook up a wireless keyboard / mouse for the RPi.

Let me know if you need anything else!

Thanks again!



PL1

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Re: First DK Cabinet Build
« Reply #151 on: April 27, 2017, 05:08:50 pm »
** Amplifier specs are as follows: Operating voltage:DC7.5-15V - Recommended supply voltage:12V **
I'll be powering this with an adapter.
By "adapter", I assume you mean a separate power supply "wall wart" or "brick".

Link/specs for the amplifier power supply?

Your setup draws a lot less current than I expected.   ;D

0.5A   @ 120v for RasPi3  + encoder + keyboard/mouse
0.33A @ 120v for monitor -- 40W = 120V * 0.33A
0.13A @ 120v for marquee backlight -- 15W = 120V * 0.125A (round up)
       ? @ 120v for amplifier power supply
--------
0.96A @ 120v + amplifier power supply


Scott

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Re: First DK Cabinet Build
« Reply #152 on: April 27, 2017, 05:28:55 pm »
** Amplifier specs are as follows: Operating voltage:DC7.5-15V - Recommended supply voltage:12V **
I'll be powering this with an adapter.
By "adapter", I assume you mean a separate power supply "wall wart" or "brick".

Link/specs for the amplifier power supply?

Your setup draws a lot less current than I expected.   ;D

0.5A   @ 120v for RasPi3  + encoder + keyboard/mouse
0.33A @ 120v for monitor -- 40W = 120V * 0.33A
0.13A @ 120v for marquee backlight -- 15W = 120V * 0.125A (round up)
       ? @ 120v for amplifier power supply
--------
0.96A @ 120v + amplifier power supply


Scott

Thanks Scott - yes, by 'adapter' I just meant the plug / wall brick to power the amp. The only info I can find on the amp power supply (wasn't included) is: "Recommended supply voltage: 12V". I don't know if this tells you anything.

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Re: First DK Cabinet Build
« Reply #153 on: April 27, 2017, 07:17:42 pm »
The only info I can find on the amp power supply (wasn't included) is: "Recommended supply voltage: 12V". I don't know if this tells you anything.
It tells me that the amp manufacturer didn't bother to publish useful info like max current draw or recommended power supply rating.   :banghead:

The product listings and spec sheets only list "Quiescent current" -- how much current it draws when doing nothing.   :angry:

Since there appears to be no clear data, here's my spitball guess: (LMK if I got this wrong, audio guys)
- The amplifier you linked to is 10W+10W and based on the PAM8610 (~90% efficient)
- The highest power the PAM8610 amplifier is rated for is 15W+15W (30W total)
- 30W = 120v * 0.25A

If you get a 12v power supply rated for at least 0.25A @ 120v (2.5A @ 12v) you should be good.

0.5A   @ 120v for RasPi3  + encoder + keyboard/mouse
0.33A @ 120v for monitor -- 40W = 120v * 0.33A
0.13A @ 120v for marquee backlight -- 15W = 120v * 0.125A (round up)
0.24A @ 120v for amplifier power supply -- 30W = 120v * 0.25 (round down)
--------
1.20A @ 120v = 144W


Scott

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Re: First DK Cabinet Build
« Reply #154 on: April 27, 2017, 07:55:55 pm »
The only info I can find on the amp power supply (wasn't included) is: "Recommended supply voltage: 12V". I don't know if this tells you anything.
It tells me that the amp manufacturer didn't bother to publish useful info like max current draw or recommended power supply rating.   :banghead:

The product listings and spec sheets only list "Quiescent current" -- how much current it draws when doing nothing.   :angry:

Since there appears to be no clear data, here's my spitball guess: (LMK if I got this wrong, audio guys)
- The amplifier you linked to is 10W+10W and based on the PAM8610 (~90% efficient)
- The highest power the PAM8610 amplifier is rated for is 15W+15W (30W total)
- 30W = 120v * 0.25A

If you get a 12v power supply rated for at least 0.25A @ 120v (2.5A @ 12v) you should be good.

0.5A   @ 120v for RasPi3  + encoder + keyboard/mouse
0.33A @ 120v for monitor -- 40W = 120v * 0.33A
0.13A @ 120v for marquee backlight -- 15W = 120v * 0.125A (round up)
0.24A @ 120v for amplifier power supply -- 30W = 120v * 0.25 (round down)
--------
1.20A @ 120v = 144W


Scott

Scott- thanks a ton for all of this technical figuring. This is where my coconut shuts down ;) but it's good to see the process and learn how to figure this out. Cheers.

Here's the revised plate (no 'Nintedo' or 'Nintitties') :)




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Re: First DK Cabinet Build
« Reply #155 on: April 28, 2017, 07:46:06 pm »
Scrolling through my resource files for the build and thought I'd post my initial loose mockup from Sketchup.



SN plate artwork has been sent off, found a power supply for my micro-amp and sadly, away for the weekend so no progress for a few days. When I get back, it's on to the wiring ,stapling and velcro-ing.


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« Reply #156 on: April 29, 2017, 03:23:10 am »
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« Last Edit: March 19, 2021, 02:30:40 am by ChanceKJ »

mwhitney

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Re: First DK Cabinet Build
« Reply #157 on: April 29, 2017, 12:08:13 pm »
End up ordering it from the place here in Calgary?

Hey Chance - no. I emailed them the same day and didn't ever hear back. I found a company in Kelowna - $20 bones and I can go pick it up / save on the shipping.

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« Reply #158 on: April 29, 2017, 01:17:16 pm »
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« Last Edit: March 19, 2021, 02:30:29 am by ChanceKJ »

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Re: First DK Cabinet Build
« Reply #159 on: April 29, 2017, 01:32:00 pm »
What's the side art going to look like on the other side? Are you able to reverse the 1981, coins and coin slot elements so they read properly?