First DK Cabinet Build

[mwhitney]

Hey gents - I'm Mike from BC and have been pouring over the threads here for a few weeks. The snowball started for me after watching and purchasing a 'Vader' 2600 from eBay with about a dozen games. Down the rabbit hole I went starting about a month ago and I've been obsessing over a build since plugging in Space Invaders - ironically, the first game I ever played at about 5 years old.

To date, I've amassed some casters, white T-mold, the necessary shank and bit, buttons, 2 zippyy controllers, an RPi3, a Xin Mo dual board and have been mocking up my plans in Sketch-Up by following the Jakobud drawings. Like many here, I came a cross a number of discrepancies - especially when working on the artwork and sourcing out parts from Mike's et al. I've yet to pull the trigger on the brackets and have been searching for some pro DIY mounting options to house the bezel and marquee.... still looking.

Most recently, I stumbled upon Gaetan's plans and felt like I'd hit the jackpot (thank you, if you're reading). I've since re-worked the artwork in illustrator for the sides and have a solid vision moving forward.

Personally, I love the shape of the DK3 cab, but I'm not crazy about the artwork. For this build I want to have something that looks a bit different but tasteful utilizing the early Industrial Era artwork - kind of modern pop-art. As such, I found some stuff by Tom Whalen, recreated his artwork in illustrator and then reworked it to fit the curves / layout of the cabinet. I've done the bezel and marquee as well and just need to work out the control panel - I'm not sure if I should use 1 joystick or 2.

So far, I've set up the Pi and have a few games along with a plywood control panel to keep me inspired . So far my wife and daughters are pretty excited - nostalgic for my wife, and a whole new world to my young daughters as Atari has been their first exposure to video games. I have 2 joysticks and 7 buttons set up for each, plus the P1 / P2 buttons but so far, we haven't used the second controller.... wondering if this is redundant.

Anyway, my two sheets of 3/4 MDF are sitting in the garage ready to make some dust in the morning. In hindsight, (had I found Gaetan's plans earlier), I'd have bought 15mm MDF and smaller T-mold, but 3/4 it is, at least for the sides and shelves.

I'm looking forward to finally getting started and appreciate all the information and trailblazing that's been done here. Thanks for the well-documented write-ups, photos and inspiration.

Here we go...

[ChanceKJ]

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[zinger]

Awesome!  I originally looked at using MDF for my DK build and decided against it as it weighs a ton. I used 5/8ths (9/16ths actual) for my DK build and found DK blue laminate. It is light enough where I can pick it up myself. I couldn't imagine moving around an MDF based DK.

Check out my DK build here:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,150085.0.html

Also, I need to finish my blog here to show the final result.

[mwhitney]

Thanks Chance, and Zinger. I've bookmarked both of your builds as well as a few others for motivation. I love the detail you guys put into your cabinets! Thanks for the support.

RE MDF - it weighs a ton! In hindsight, I may have gone the G1S route - plus, I hate working with MDF. I'd have gone outside to cut and route, but we had rain today... spent a good hour just vacuuming up .

[zinger]

Oh yeah, the dust from routing MDF is terrible too. It's not too late to switch to 5/8ths plywood.

[mwhitney]

Oh yeah, the dust from routing MDF is terrible too. It's not too late to switch to 5/8ths plywood.

I made some headway today No going back now. [noob alert]... how does one post photos?! I hit the image icon but it just inserts an 'image' tag - do we have to post our images elsewhere and add a link?  I tried the 'Attachment' area as well but it's hard to see which image is which and how to comment on each. Cheers!

UPDATE: Figured out how to post pics

[mwhitney]

Some progress today!

Hopefully this link works - I'll keep this one short to test the img link.

Here's the 1:1 plan laid out on 3/4 MDF:


Trim Complete:


Taped down and ready to transfer:


Transfered:


Double checking measurements:



Here's where I ran into a glitch - plans read 1692 mm less 60 mm for the base which would be 1632 mm. However, you can see in the photo that the 1:1 drawing is measuring ~1622.



This had me stumped for a while...

[mwhitney]

I went back and working from the bottom right of the "VUE DE COTE" plan, I transferred each measurement, i.e. 36mm, 500mm, 76mm, 15mm, 23mm, 180mm, 31mm, 26mm, 124mm, 454mm, 33mm, 102mm, and 32mm. This totals 1632mm, but the drawing isn't measuring up (unless I'm drunk  .

From what I can tell, all looked good until I got up to the marquee area. This is where I found about 10mm of a discrepancy. I shifted the template up to my 1632 line for the top of the panel and just made up the difference.



If I'm wrong, better to have something to trim. Besides, if anyone complains that my cabinet is 1 cm to tall, they're not invited to come over and play .

I'm doing custom graphics on this cabinet as well, so if it is off slightly, I'll account for this in my artwork.

[mwhitney]

Here's another detail of the top portion after laying out all the measurements. You can see how this kicks everything up about 10 mm and now matches the overall '1632mm' spec:

[mwhitney]

Time to trim these boards down:



Cut the curves:



Ready to sand:


Cleaning up the radius':


Transferring to the second side and loosely cutting the excess for the router:





Clamped and ready to roll with a top-bearing bit:

[mwhitney]

Last bit today - I really wanted to try out this T-molding slot cutter. I figure it's better to screw it up now than when the cabinet is assembled . Luckily, all went off without a hitch and I managed to get my test cut perfect on the first attempt. The digital calliper came in handy here.







Both sides done!



Feeling good about the progress today:



Goals for tomorrow:

Build the base out of some hardwood I have on-hand, cut some interior panels, and screw in some blocking so this baby can start taking shape.

[zinger]

Yeah, you made good progress! When you get those sides cut out and set them up side by side then it feels like you're almost done. 

Also, that's a really sharp pencil with no eraser.

Looks like you didn't use the Gaetan plans for your template? I had traced a template from an original DK at the OMSI Museum and the Gaetan plans were really close. I don't recall any big discrepancies.

[mwhitney]

Hi Zinger - good eye... that's a life full of revisions .

This is the plan I used (printed at Staples): http://www.classicarcadecabinets.com/donkey-kong.html
[Down where it reads "Files to Print"]

So far, this is the only issue (10 mm isn't much at the end of the day). I would like to confirm if the cab sides are, in fact 1632 mm. At this point, I don't think I'll be changing it but I am curious.

As an aside, having not seen a DK3 in real life since I was a kid, I'm surprised by how small it is! I was expecting it to be a bit more substantial. My wife will be happy that it's not an elephant in the room.

[mwhitney]

Day 2 - Built the cabinet base. I'm looking forward to getting those pretty sides up off the ground so I don't chip the edges.



I had some strips of oak veneer plywood sitting around and thought it would work well for the base. Tomorrow I'll hit this with primer and paint. I used the build video from Canadian Arcade.



Goals for tomorrow are to follow Zinger's process of installing batons in the interior to avoid drilling through the sides.

[mwhitney]

Day 3: Primed, sanded and painted the base. Also, started adding batons inside to affix the panels.

QUESTION: What should the interior spacing be between the top panel and the shelf?

I've read 5.875" or app. 149.23 mm. I have my batons set to about 149.61 (off only because of builder error ). Does this sound about right?





Almost completed one side's blocking - this took a ton of time and triple checking.

[zinger]

QUESTION: What should the interior spacing be between the top panel and the shelf?

I've read 5.875" or app. 149.23 mm. I have my batons set to about 149.61 (off only because of builder error ). Does this sound about right?

I'm not following the 149.61 measurement that your asking about. That's the distance you have set between your top panel and marquee shelf? That's about the height of the marquee plus a little room. However, the marquee sits at an angle. Your picture where you show the 144.61mm looks like it could be correct when you account for the thickness of baton.

See here for breakdown of measurements:
http://hico-srv004.pixhotel.fr/sites/default/files/gamoovernet/20150323232243-Gaetan-Donkey-Kong-Cab-Gaetan-Coupe.jpg

You'll also notice the 5mm board that's attached to top shelf. That's important to allow clearance of the top bracket for the marquee. I just cut this area out of the top panel.  Is that your plan?

[mwhitney]

Thanks for getting back to me, Zinger.

I think I was staring at things for too long last yesterday.

Just to clarify:

1) The space between the bottom of the top panel and the top of the shelf is 135 mm  (5.3"). This is what yours is set to? If so, the measurement in my photo is correct as far as placement but my bottom baton has to come up to read 135 mm.

2) With the marquee artwork measuring 5.875" (as per Mike's Arcade), the additional height is just because it's on a slight angle, correct? (I get this will add height - just want to double check all of this ).

3) The 5mm board - not completely clear on this in terms of what it does. In your case, did you just add 15 mm to your top shelf measurement of 618 mm (633 mm) and then cut a rabbet into it? So, essentially the underside of your top panel doesn't have that 'jut' / extra piece?

I'm going to go back to your thread and try to see what you've done for this portion.

Thank you!
Mike

[zinger]

1) The space between the bottom of the top panel and the top of the shelf is 135 mm  (5.3"). This is what yours is set to? If so, the measurement in my photo is correct as far as placement but my bottom baton has to come up to read 135 mm.

Yes, I'm at 135mm. I just measured it. I pretty much followed the Gaetan plans and I don't recall finding any issues. The marquee, bezel, control panel, brackets, art, etc. all fits great.

2) With the marquee artwork measuring 5.875" (as per Mike's Arcade), the additional height is just because it's on a slight angle, correct? (I get this will add height - just want to double check all of this ).

Yes, the marquee sits at an angle. It almost sits at the proper angle just sitting in the marquee holder bracket.

3) The 5mm board - not completely clear on this in terms of what it does. In your case, did you just add 15 mm to your top shelf measurement of 618 mm (633 mm) and then cut a rabbet into it? So, essentially the underside of your top panel doesn't have that 'jut' / extra piece?

The 5mm board just helps to support and hold the marquee in place. The marquee will lean against it. The top marquee bracket will not touch this 5mm board and is screwed to the top panel.

[mwhitney]

Thanks for clarifying, Zinger.

What do you mean by: "I just cut this area out of the top panel...."

Do you have a photo you can send of how you worked this? Also, how far back did you send your shelf? Does it meet up to the back panel - I notice your blocking goes right up to the rear of the cab. Any photos you can send of your marquee area are appreciated!

Thanks.

[zinger]

What do you mean by: "I just cut this area out of the top panel...."

I thought I had rabbetted the top shelf but I looked and I didn't. My mistake. My memory of this build is already going. I have a supporting board like in the Gaetan plans.

Also, to see the inside of the Marquee area then scan this thread.
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,144300.0.html

[mwhitney]

What do you mean by: "I just cut this area out of the top panel...."

I thought I had rabbetted the top shelf but I looked and I didn't. My mistake. My memory of this build is already going. I have a supporting board like in the Gaetan plans.

Also, to see the inside of the Marquee area then scan this thread.
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,144300.0.html

Thanks for taking a look!

[wp34]

Love the build pictures.  Keep it up!

Can you give some more detail on how you used your digital caliper to line up the t-molding slot?

[mwhitney]

Love the build pictures.  Keep it up!

Can you give some more detail on how you used your digital caliper to line up the t-molding slot?

Hey WP - thanks for the feedback.

As for the digital calliper, I wish I had a more exact method to share, but I just measured the width of my MDF with the calliper, divided it in half and set it to that number. From there, I marked it on the edge and set this mark to middle of the tooth on my slot-cutter bit.

I did a test cut on some scrap, expected to make some minor adjustments, but when I flipped the test board over, the bit lined up perfectly. I hammered in a piece of T-mold and it was spot-on... I'd attribute most of this to luck .

[wp34]

Cool that makes sense.  I got one of those for Christmas but haven't taken it out of the box yet.  Never thought about using it that way.

[pbj]

Round off those top rear corners on the sides.

[Wyo]

Why would he do that?   

Nice build so far! Love watching nintendo cabs progress.  Subbed! 

[mwhitney]

Thanks Wyo!

PBJ - not sure which corner you mean - I guess there's only 1 square corner left .

...

Made a bit of progress tonight and sorted out the spacing at the top. 135 mm from the underside of the top panel to the top side of the shelf... hopefully I've got it right . Many thanks to Zinger for some tips along the way.

Tonight I buttoned up the batons on the one panel and added the key. I followed the measurements exactly from Gaetan's plans but I had to trim a bit off the front-most edge of the key because I'm using 3/4" material. Had I left it, the front panel would have been a bit to close to the edge so I trimmed about a saw blade width of that leading edge.



View from the top:



Also, picked up some nice wheels while I was in Florida a few weeks ago. Twisted Quarter has some great parts so I had them send me the wheels, a coin door, T-mold and my router bit.

Here's my first issue. I failed to measure the wheel height and the wheels are about 1/8" taller than my base height.

Here's the base and bottom assembled:



Here's a closer view. I haven't bolted the wheels on but you can see how they lift the base slightly.



Any ideas here on how to resolve this apart from rebuilding the base? The only thing I can think of is to get some leg levellers for each corner, or, buy some new wheels but I'm not sure if the size increments for wheels are that specific. I'd need one that's about 3.5".

I guess another solution would be to build up the corner braces inside the bottom frame to sit flush with the bottom edge and then nail some of those vinyl furniture feet into them. This would likely raise things ~.25".

Silly mistake...

[Wyo]

You can either route the bottom wood panel down in the location of the wheel bases a 1/4 inch to recess the wheels slightly....or you can just get some leg levelers like you said, which I think is the best and easiest solution. 

If you extended those corner braces on your base down so they were flush with the bottom of your base, (or the same length) you could just get some cheap nail on nylon pads for each corner ($2)....which would raise the base up 1/4-3/8 an inch.  I know this, because I have done this exact same thing.  The 3" wheels at Home Depot are slightly longer than the 1 x 4 pine wood base material I use as well.   

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004YOIS/ref=asc_df_B00004YOIS4913288/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=394997&creativeASIN=B00004YOIS&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167142626629&hvpos=1o11&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5718039526752017850&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9028915&hvtargid=pla-277840444292

[ChanceKJ]

.

[mwhitney]

If you extended those corner braces on your base down so they were flush with the bottom of your base, (or the same length) you could just get some cheap nail on nylon pads for each corner ($2)....which would raise the base up 1/4-3/8 an inch.  I know this, because I have done this exact same thing.  The 3" wheels at Home Depot are slightly longer than the 1 x 4 pine wood base material I use as well.   

Perfect - I think this is the route I'll go. Is there an ideal placement for the wheels in terms of how far off the back they should protrude and how much space between the wheel and the floor? Thanks for the suggestion.

[mwhitney]

Nail on nylon pads are the way i'd go too.

Thanks mate. Hitting up the hardware store on my lunch break... I need some bolts for the wheels as well. 

[Wyo]

Well, the wheels you are using are shaped different then the OEM DK wheels, which go straight down...where yours curve out.  So you have som creative license as far as how much they stick out the back.  I always place my wheels 2 1/2 inches from the outside edge of each side of the base piece of wood....I can't remember if that is standard for a nintendo cabinet...and that's why I started doing that.  I use straight mounted 3 inch wheels so they are usually flush with the back of the cabinet and you really can't see them....but again, it really doesn't matter because you have some artistic freedom....as long as they do the job.

As far as the height off the floor, once you get those nylon padson there it will be the perfect distance.  See, like you I had the same problem. Haha. 

[mwhitney]

Well, the wheels you are using are shaped different then the OEM DK wheels, which go straight down...where yours curve out.  So you have som creative license as far as how much they stick out the back.  I always place my wheels 2 1/2 inches from the outside edge of each side of the base piece of wood....I can't remember if that is standard for a nintendo cabinet...and that's why I started doing that.  I use straight mounted 3 inch wheels so they are usually flush with the back of the cabinet and you really can't see them....but again, it really doesn't matter because you have some artistic freedom....as long as they do the job.

As far as the height off the floor, once you get those nylon padson there it will be the perfect distance.  See, like you I had the same problem. Haha. 

This is helpful, Wyo - thank you. The photos are great for reference. My wheels actually pivot which I'm thinking may not be the best. I picked up 4 of these anticipating that I may* (read as most likely will) build a second cabinet. Now I'm thinking I could* just put 4 wheels inside the frame in each corner which would raise the whole cab equally off the ground... just a thought. The weight may keep it in place or it may move around too much... tough to know for sure without trying it out. I may resort to picking up 2 fixed wheels if these don't pan out.

As an aside, about how much distance is there between your base front and the front edge of the plywood bottom? That is, on each side there looks to be about .5 to 1 cm - how much space is forward of the front frame? Thanks again!

[Wyo]

Not sure the exact measurement, but as you can see here not much..1/4" maybe?  I forgot when built these two cabs I was constantly referencing my original DK cab I had at the time....so the measurements were pretty accurate.  The front panel buts up directly to the front of the bottom wood panel, so that puts the base back under about 1/4 inch plus the width of the wood you are using.  I used 5/8 wood...where as you are using 3/4. 



I don't know if you are in the US but if you are and decide to go with the straight wheels, Home Depot carries the 3" wheels for about $8 each.

But like I said, you have creative freedom since you aren't building a total rep, so I think 4 wheels with casters would definitely make the cabinet easier to move around....instead of having to do 3 point turns all the time. Haha.

[mwhitney]

Perfect - my base has about the same spacing. RE the wheels, four may not be such a bad thing if the weight of the cab keeps it relatively still. I'm in Canada and we have HDs here but if I can keep the expense down, that would be ideal. It's only another 20 bones, but things are adding up - $70 on paint and supplies today (add that to the list of receipts my wife doesn't need to see ).

Worst-case, the cab moves too much and she goes up on her back for the leg levellers and new wheels. Since this is not an authentic DK replica as I'll be adding my own graphics etc, these details aren't as important as if I were a DK3 purist.

OK - I've beaten this detail to death - onward and upward!

PS - great work on your build!

[zinger]

Are your wheels screwed on in the pictures? If so then consider bolts that go all the way through for strength.

[mwhitney]

Not a ton of progress today - came home to a bunch of furniture in the garage as the insurance claim from the winter is getting settled and carpet is going in.  A such, the couch was in the middle of my workspace but I managed to squeeze in and glue / screw the bottom frame to the base. Tomorrow I'll play with the wheel setup and start laying out the second side...

[mwhitney]

Are your wheels screwed on in the pictures? If so then consider bolts that go all the way through for strength.

Zinger -  I just set the wheels there for the photo to show the gap. While getting paint today I picked up some bolts, nuts and lock washers that will go right through. Thanks for the suggestion.

[ChanceKJ]

.

[mwhitney]

Great photo reference, Chance - cheers. If I start building more cabs I may just hit up Alibaba or Express. It's crazy how much casters cost... I opted to hit up Home Hardware today and bought 2 non-swivel type wheels very similar to the ones you and Wyo posted. I wanted to save the headache of adding my swivel type wheels - 4 would most likely have the cabinet moving during game-play and I'm not sure that 2 wheels that swivel on the back would be ideal either. Now I've got 4 swivel wheels I can donate to the shop which are handy anyway for carts etc.